Join the Army Subasidal tendencies
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Our Subasidal hero and mentor Victor
Dont let the engrish and seemingly complete idiotic lack of knowledge and safety act fool you Victor is a genius way ahead of his time
OK, so I lied buzzz
So, I set up the new MX with 28 guage Ti wire, dual coil. It reads 0.24 ohms when I installed it on the VS DNA40. Ugliest coils I've probably ever made, but that stuff really is as springy as they say it is. The bottom coil is the first one I made, the top is the third so I may just be getting better at this ... maybe
Here's what the build looked like after installing KGD and spacing the coils;
Build resistance was stable on my ohm reader when I nudged the coils a bit so I cut the leads, wicked a coil with KGD and dry fired it starting at 270 deg F and moved up from there. No effect on the cotton until I got to 410 F and got a bit of a singe so I left it at that setting.
I'm vaping it side by side with the old MX right now using this Kanthal build which has had a few dry burns and re-wicks and is on a Sigelei 150;
The DNA40 is set at 40 watts and the Sigelei at 39 because I feel the Sig puts out a bit more power at the same setting as the DNA40. I'm using the same juice, in the same attys and the same drip tips. I've got the air flow slightly more open on the Ti build because it has longer coils so there is one difference, but it's a difference I feel makes the two setups more comparable.
It's early times yet for me, but so far the DNA40 build is holding its own. Both are very nice vapes. The setup on the DNA40 is maxing out at about 320 deg F when the wicks are wet and I hit it watching the screen, not taking a drag. Flavor is a bit different between the setups, but that's to be expected as the builds are so different.
It will be interesting to see how the two systems hold up over time
So a few hours later and the DNA40 had an issue. It would quit firing after making vape for a couple of seconds. I took the cap off the Mutation X, snugged up the post screws and all is well again 
Hoping it stays this way for a while now
Hoping it stays this way for a while now
Sigelei. My 100w+ has been through the wringer. Bounces around in the center console of my work truck every day, gets covered in juice from leaks once in awhile, etc. Had it about 6 months now without a lick of trouble.
I found that the amount of wicking makes a huge difference as well. I used way less when I rewicked it Saturday. On par with the airflow in my dark horse with 4/6 afc holes open (how I typically run it). Also switched to twisted 28ga, 9 wraps. .5 ohms, running pretty cool, and flavor like you wouldn't believe.Ah, got ya. I realized I had to not screw the Billow all the way onto a mod and block those air holes after taking the screws out. I'm still enjoying it this way
Thanks for the feedback Sicaedus
Not a problem my friend. I am always willing give out advise based on my personal experiences. I know I am still learning. I've only been Sub-Ohming since late January of this year. I used a lot of interweb surfing to learn about safety, coil building and devices as quickly as I could. My experience is short, but I am decently smart dude so I pick things up pretty fast.
I hear ya Spidey. I now wick my attys like .... Kickers does in this video and it works well for me with both cotton and rayon. Fluffing the wick and trimming it down seems to be the way to go.
My28g ti coils are ugly, too
Good to hear it's not just me
. The good part seems to be the coils are easy to move around after I wick them. How do you handle cleaning them without dry burning Roxy, or do you dry burn them?
I usually cut it perfectly even with the deck and make a tiny fluff ball underneath. Made it a little thinner this time and I'm way happier with it,
Good to hear it's not just me
Don't dry burn. They will oxidize and be toxic I guess. I'm just running them under hot water and gently rubbing them off with some tissue. I was thinking it might be a good plan to use a tiny bottle brush or a pipe cleaner on them.
That's what I've read from other people too and I think I'm not going to chance oxidizing it too much. Before I made the first Ti coil I flamed a bit of wire with a Bic lighter and got it to glow quite red. It didn't burn but I did get what seemed like soot on it and under the soot the wire had changed a bit. I then hit it with a propane torch and that got the wire to burn but it self extinguished after burning up about 3/8" of itself. That part then crumbled when I touched it. I'm not worried about it igniting after that little experiment, but yes, the oxidation part might not be good. I'll have to do more research into that if I continue using it.
On another note, I was quite happy with the Ti build yesterday and had no problems with it. When I came back to it today it wasn't vaping the same. I found the resistance had about doubled, the mod was out of TP mode but both coils were firing. I snugged down the post screws again but I couldn't get good contact back before I broke a wire.
Is this kind of thing common with Ti and/or Ni or am I doing something wrong? I might try doubling the wire tails over next time so I have twice the wire to tighten down on, but I have my doubts if that will work well because Ti is so springy.
Ryedan, this is my first Lemo but this TVC review may answer your questions. I have some ni200 coming tomorrow and gonna try it on my SXM
Our Subasidal hero and mentor Victor
No matter how many times I watch that I bust out laughing at his reaction to the wick bursting into flames...
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