No, not yet. I was hoping to send it to him together with any other types of tube we can get ready be the time we finish the engravings of the new units, so I can send them together.
By Leo : Attys, mods, Drip-tips, tanks [CLOSED}
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The only thing I can think is that maybe the pin insulator needs changing. I will ask for another option tomorrow though
Cool - thanks!No, not yet. I was hoping to send it to him together with any other types of tube we can get ready be the time we finish the engravings of the new units, so I can send them together.
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Sounds great. Are you talking about the "blue" thing? If so, send any helpful hints on changing out. I have a couple of them.
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Exactly
Here is a video to help you change it easily
very nice and had the proper tools to change it out.....however....battery drop is still occurring at a rapid pace compared to other toppers I tried just to see if my batteries were aging!! The provari is clean and checks the battery at 4.2 volt as it is coming off my charger and stays there until I attach the dripper pro and it then reads 3.6-3.7 v. My normal battery rotation is 3 18650s that have been charged been many cycles for over a year. I bought a few ones to try buy not really much difference. Any pointers still welcomed!
Thanks
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This is the first time I hear of something like this. I will ask once the office opens up and let you know as soon as possible!
@opher i build my Calix with 28 ga ni200 with 7-8 wraps on a 2,5mm drill bit. It is about 0.10-0.11 ohms. Vaping with 25joules and 400F. Really great vape. Lots of clouds and flavour. Just build it as a dripper style, don't make the wicks stand by the juice channels. Below is a picture of my current setup. Sorry as it is a little dirty but the setup is for more than 10ml of vape.
Thanks! I'm going to rebuild today and will try that out. I think I had like a 4mm ID..not sure tho, thanks again!@opher i build my Calix with 28 ga ni200 with 7-8 wraps on a 2,5mm drill bit. It is about 0.10-0.11 ohms. Vaping with 25joules and 400F. Really great vape. Lots of clouds and flavour. Just build it as a dripper style, don't make the wicks stand by the juice channels. Below is a picture of my current setup. Sorry as it is a little dirty but the setup is for more than 10ml of vape.
I asked today about your problem, but we can't understand why this is happening. The battery does not come in contact with the atty. The chip gives the information and shows the voltage. Can you give me a bit more information? What ohms are you using? How long do you leave the wire that sits on the side (negative) ? Do you have any other mods you can check the battery and the Dripper together?
So my Calix passed my drive to work test, with ease actually. Not that I had any doubt. And it was the easiest tank yet. Then my K4 is a close 2nd.
I have a about a 2500 ft elevation climb to get to work. I remember when I started vaping last July, my first few days bringing my vape stuff to work, I couldn't figure out why my s*** was flooded when I got to work. I'd spend the first 10 mins in the bathroom at work blowing my mods out. I didn't even stop to think about the pressure changes. It was all so new to me.
3/4 turn and no flooding.... Love my Calix.
I have a about a 2500 ft elevation climb to get to work. I remember when I started vaping last July, my first few days bringing my vape stuff to work, I couldn't figure out why my s*** was flooded when I got to work. I'd spend the first 10 mins in the bathroom at work blowing my mods out. I didn't even stop to think about the pressure changes. It was all so new to me.
3/4 turn and no flooding.... Love my Calix.
Awesome to hear! That's how I felt the other day with the hot deck/outside etc. Haha I was fully expecting a flood, and would have been fine with it frankly. (I mean I guess, really it's not too crazy of a thing to have a Provari outside while working and laying in its side in the grand scheme of things though....) But I did still expect an issue, and was surprised it was leak free and just perfect.
I have no doubts I'll have some issues here/there, and of course did a little on the learning curve like you, but all in all, I'm very impressed.
*Next tests will be other "trouble spots" like leaving it in a hot car, or worse, a freezing cold car in the winter - haha.
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So my extra Calix tank and the shorty drip tip I ordered Sunday are going to be here on Thursday. Damn that's lickety quick. Makes me want to buy more stuff! [emoji400]
I am using 1.6 ohm coil. The negative wire is just above the threading and folds down maybe 1 thread. I was never real sure if it was to come all the way down the threading or where it was to go other than it needed to touch the metal! Can you send me pic of proper placement of the negative wire? I will check the dripper with the battery on another mod tonight! When I place another topper on the mod that usually has the dripper, the volts read a higher voltage. Thanks
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Haha - I ordered 2 spare tanks actually, but chose the slower shipping method. Didn't even look at my tracking yet. I'm just happy the backups are on their way so I can quit holding the Calix like a newborn baby - haha.
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You only need about 5mm of negative wire to create a good surface touching the threads. You can put the negative wire right above the o-ring of the base and leave about 5mm space before cutting (a little less will not harm it either). A full thread is way to much and it can drain the battery faster as it arks in more spots and creates a bigger distance for the electricity to travel
I will try to take a pic tomorrow but I don't think it will show because the wire goes inside thread ontop of the o-ring which is very hard to notice
Maybe I have been doing it all wrong even on the Sophia!! I assume the neg wire is the leg that goes up the cup and a slight bend to the side where the metal legs are and I usually pull the wire down the threads and cut off. I think you are saying to cut the neg wire prior to seating the cup and below the base? Maybe I should check out a video or you can send me that pic as a refresher. Now that I think about it, this issue may have started when I recoiled!!You only need about 5mm of negative wire to create a good surface touching the threads. You can put the negative wire right above the o-ring of the base and leave about 5mm space before cutting (a little less will not harm it either). A full thread is way to much and it can drain the battery faster as it arks in more spots and creates a bigger distance for the electricity to travel
I will try to take a pic tomorrow but I don't think it will show because the wire goes inside thread ontop of the o-ring which is very hard to notice
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On the ΣΟΦΙΑ you cut the wire right over where the wire gets jammed between the cup and the threaded wing. On THE Dripper, you take it out between the wings and set about 2-5mm on the last thread over the o-ring of the base and cut the rest. In the video below, you can see on 5:20, how to do it even without any tools.
Ok. Back to report. I had been running the neg leg up the side of the metal base leg and clipping off at the top.....I reviewed a video and it appears that the leg is pulled down between the metal post/legs and cut off at the baseline the barrel is screwed on, correct? Also the video shows using silica and taking the loop around the base of the cup, if we are using cotton, I don't suppose this is necessary and just tuck some cotton from each side of the coil down into the base, correct? It also makes me wonder that without the loop around the base of the ceramic cup, am I pushing it too far down or should I pack a strip of cotton around the base for the cup to sit properly as if it were a looped silica which takes up room!! I usually try to seat the cup so the wicks are at the open ends of the metal threaded base, is this correct as well? If so, then the neg wire would be on one of the empty spaces where there is no threaded leg and along side with the wicks, correct?!? Hope you can follow this!
Thanks
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Thanks
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