SXmini M Class (TEMP CONTROL)

[Fir3b1rd]

I guess I'm just looking for an excuse to buy another Sub tank.

oh... Well that makes sense

can never have enough tops....unlike dancing girls

 

[Braddahbill]

Thanks for that. Isnt 0.13 a little high for that build? should be closer to 0.10. Close enough I suppose. If it were kanthal we wouldnt be worrying about a 0.03ohm discrepancy lol!!

The reaseon I asked is that I am running a 0.13ohm build which is 6 wraps of 30 guage around 2.5. Now I am runnig that at 18J and 450F which actually gives a nice but rather cool vape. Its really interesting how subtle the differences are between these builds and their performance. I guess wicking contributes a lot also!

I was thinking the same thing too, Steam Engine says 9.14 wraps for 0.13 Ω - 3mm ID and was wondering if regular nickel was different from tempered nickel. When building with regular nickel Steam Engine is right on the numbers. I just got in the Tempered nickel so it's a new learning curve for now. I think I will have to go back and recheck the set resistance if I can remember not to vape the darn thing for 15 minutes.

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Update you were right I re-did the set resistance and I got 0.096 Ω and on Steam Engine says about 7 wraps 6.64 to be exact.

 

[TheotherSteveS]

I was thinking the same thing too, Steam Engine says 9.14 wraps for 0.13 Ω - 3mm ID and was wondering if regular nickel was different from tempered nickel. When building with regular nickel Steam Engine is right on the numbers. I just got in the Tempered nickel so it's a new learning curve for now. I think I will have to go back and recheck the set resistance if I can remember not to vape the darn thing for 15 minutes.

****************************************************************************************************************

Update you were right I re-did the set resistance and I got 0.096 Ω and on Steam Engine says about 7 wraps 6.64 to be exact.

Ok. So now you reset the resistance, has the vape changed any - did yoy have to change temp/J settings??

 

[tchavei]

I was thinking the same thing too, Steam Engine says 9.14 wraps for 0.13 Ω - 3mm ID and was wondering if regular nickel was different from tempered nickel. When building with regular nickel Steam Engine is right on the numbers. I just got in the Tempered nickel so it's a new learning curve for now. I think I will have to go back and recheck the set resistance if I can remember not to vape the darn thing for 15 minutes.

****************************************************************************************************************

Update you were right I re-did the set resistance and I got 0.096 Ω and on Steam Engine says about 7 wraps 6.64 to be exact.

Hardened nickel from Stealthvape has lower Ohms per feet.

For a 2.5mm id, the standard 28g ni 200 adds 0.012 per wrap. The hardened stuff adds only 0.01

So basically, 10 wraps of hardened ni give 0.1 ohm while steam engine says 0.12 Ohms + legs.

 

[Braddahbill]

Ok. So now you reset the resistance, has the vape changed any - did yoy have to change temp/J settings??

It feels like it got just a tad cooler, the temp is hovering at 402º to 404º and I still have it set to 18J - 400º

 

[Vlad1]

I did a quick possibly slightly inaccurate test the other day at 20w I believe. This was done quickly and I wasn't paying a lot of attention to detail but what I came up with was.

Soft: -13%
Powerful: +13%
Powerful+: +18%

Apparently I've lost the spreadsheet I kept the information in so I might redo the test in the near future to be more thorough / accurate but that's what I recall.

As for you mode changing that sounds bizarre. I'd keep an eye on that and possibly report it to your vendor if it persists. I've never had mine switch modes at all with the exception of when I changed it.

@TheotherSteveS, Did a re-test at 20w, 30W, 20j & 30J and I believe you were correct. While in Power mode the different selections do appear to be about what I previously posted. However in Joule mode the numbers are fishy. I've sent an email to my vendor and to Yihi for explanation.

 

[Braddahbill]

Hardened nickel from Stealthvape has lower Ohms per feet.

For a 2.5mm id, the standard 28g ni 200 adds 0.012 per wrap. The hardened stuff adds only 0.01

So basically, 10 wraps of hardened ni give 0.1 ohm while steam engine says 0.12 Ohms + legs.

Thanks I just added that to my note pad.

 

[TheotherSteveS]

It feels like it got just a tad cooler, the temp is hovering at 402º to 404º and I still have it set to 18J - 400º

Ok, for the change in resistance that is a much smaler effect than I was expecting! Interesting!

 

[Vlad1]

I guess I'm just looking for an excuse to buy another Sub Tank.

Coming from the Fogger V4.x line the ease of building on the Subtank mini is far less time consuming. And vape quality flavor is fantastic to me with just 1 coil. I bought one about a month ago then went and ordered a second about a week later. Plus if I ever get lazy or just don't want to mess around with it I can just pop a occ head in.

 

[TheotherSteveS]

@TheotherSteveS, Did a re-test at 20w, 30W, 20j & 30J and I believe you were correct. While in Power mode the different selections do appear to be about what I previously posted. However in Joule mode the numbers are fishy. I've sent an email to my vendor and to Yihi for explanation.

Ok Vlad. I havent tried in W mode at all as yet! But it is noticeable in J mode. Lets see what they say...

 

[TheotherSteveS]

Hardened nickel from Stealthvape has lower Ohms per feet.

For a 2.5mm id, the standard 28g ni 200 adds 0.012 per wrap. The hardened stuff adds only 0.01

So basically, 10 wraps of hardened ni give 0.1 ohm while steam engine says 0.12 Ohms + legs.

If that is true then the wire is either of a different composition, or it is thicker!

 

[PapaPro]

Just wanted to say to those who are having issues getting your set-ups right. Hang in there! This is such a steep learning curve. The past 24hrs have been the best for me as everything is finally clicked. I now can have consistency and enjoying by far, the best vape I have had in my short introduction to this tech. I am so very happy. Happy bunny I am.

But I have to say this is all too hard to get right for inexperienced people like me. I just want to stop smoking. The price of early adopting and things can only get better I know. But this tech is really for advanced users.

I was thinking about this and predict in the future we will need chips in our atty's. Maybe a spectrum analyst of the liquid in infa-red. Then the device can scan the liquid and prime for best results. Just a quick look into the future with my limited mind

So for now please hang in there as the M Class does indeed work. You just have to build a dozen builds to learn that curve and become an advanced user in a week. You can do it!

Take care all and keep helping each other out. I love that about this place

 

[TheotherSteveS]

Just wanted to say to those who are having issues getting your set-ups right. Hang in there! This is such a steep learning curve. The past 24hrs have been the best for me as everything is finally clicked. I now can have consistency and enjoying by far, the best vape I have had in my short introduction to this tech. I am so very happy. Happy bunny I am.

But I have to say this is all too hard to get right for inexperienced people like me. I just want to stop smoking. The price of early adopting and things can only get better I know. But this tech is really for advanced users.

I was thinking about this and predict in the future we will need chips in our atty's. Maybe a spectrum analyst of the liquid in infa-red. Then the device can scan the liquid and prime for best results. Just a quick look into the future with my limited mind

So for now please hang in there as the M Class does indeed work. You just have to build a dozen builds to learn that curve and become an advanced user in a week. You can do it!

Take care all and keep helping each other out. I love that about this place

Absolutely ahng in there. Having said that, the only problems I have had so far with TC are when using prebuilt coils. My own efforts, with Ni and Ti, have been mostly pretty successful, be it on RTAs or drippers...Just a bit of care with the build, tighten eveything down, space your wraps and wick it properly!! Love it!

 

[PapaPro]

Btw, I forgot to add my three tips that shed light!

1: Hard Ni200. It is like working with Kanthal (stretch for spacing the coil)
2: Comb your wick!
3: Start with low temp and Joules

Simples.... Enjoy

 

[tchavei]

If that is true then the wire is either of a different composition, or it is thicker!

I know that the hardened ni 200 is guaranteed 99.6% pure nickel.

I don't have a temco spool here but I was told that the resistance per feet varied a little from batch to batch and the expressed Ohms per feet didn't match steam engine.

All in all, all that I can say is that my nickel builds always read lower on my dna than steam engine and the values I get on my ohm tester are are closer but not the same as steam engine.

My Ti coils are spot on however... What steam engine says is what I get on the dna.

 

[2legsshrt]

Well I like this thing so much I just ordered a second one. Going to get somemore tempered wire. I am using NI200 28awg 7 wraps at 3mm. Comes out at .089 and just seems fantastic on the Kanger STM. Love it.

 

[2legsshrt]

Only thing bad I can see is they are battery eaters but thats OK Think I am going to get a tube or 2 that will help.

 

[Fir3b1rd]

Absolutely ahng in there. Having said that, the only problems I have had so far with TC are when using prebuilt coils. My own efforts, with Ni and Ti, have been mostly pretty successful, be it on RTAs or drippers...Just a bit of care with the build, tighten eveything down, space your wraps and wick it properly!! Love it!

^^what he said

 

[2legsshrt]

What batteries are you guys using. I checked the amps I'm pulling and just about crapped. I am running the new AW's which are rated at 20amps continuous but I am using .09 coil and using about 1.9v thats 21 amps. The AW's are working fine but thought of getting some vtc4's. If you stack them with a tube I would imagine the aw's would be fine right. Mine are not getting hot at all.

 

[TheotherSteveS]

What batteries are you guys using. I checked the amps I'm pulling and just about crapped. I am running the new AW's which are rated at 20amps continuous but I am using .09 coil and using about 1.9v thats 21 amps. The AW's are working fine but thought of getting some vtc4's. If you stack them with a tube I would imagine the aw's would be fine right. Mine are not getting hot at all.

that calculation doesnt work with Ni because the resiatance increases with temp. So the current it is putting out is less than you might expect from ohms law in the resting state!