I use mostly vtc4s in the sxminis, but I also use mxjos, 25rs and he4s for other mods and at times they'll find there way in one of the minis
SXmini M Class (TEMP CONTROL)
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You beat me to it Theo.
Theo! Love it!! Better than TOSS which someone else used the other day! Its a stupid name but I wanted to use SteveS but someone else took that already..hence..yeah you know..lol
Im still laughing at Theo...
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I tried both hardened/annealed ni200 from the UK vendor and a regular soft ni200. Getting the hardened wire 2nd, I did my first builds on the soft wire. After making 3 builds with the annealed, I actually prefer the soft stuff. It's easier to wrap, and I would swear it has better flavor (maybe the annealed stuff needs to be cleaned).
If you are having difficulty with soft wire, just make some loose spaced wraps. When finished, compress it, and they magically make a perfect spaced coil in 10 seconds. The wraps don't even need to be similar, but after squeezing it they are very even.
Suppose I'm lucky, but softness/care aside, I don't see any difference building with kanthal than with nickel. I'm using a Lemo too, which a lot of people seem to complain about.
If you are having difficulty with soft wire, just make some loose spaced wraps. When finished, compress it, and they magically make a perfect spaced coil in 10 seconds. The wraps don't even need to be similar, but after squeezing it they are very even.
Suppose I'm lucky, but softness/care aside, I don't see any difference building with kanthal than with nickel. I'm using a Lemo too, which a lot of people seem to complain about.
I'm using VTC5's and 25R's, But you cant really calc your amps that way as your resistance will increase significantly in comparison to resting rsistance once you hit the fire button..
Vlad,
One other point; that is the output current they are trying to calculate with the at rest resistance. So even if that could be done (which it can't) that would be the output current of the DC to DC converter not the amp draw the battery would see. The battery would see much less current draw.
DC to DC converter is Watts in Watts out. So the battery current would be figured at the current battery voltage.
Looking at the yihi website, I noticed they have a download for the YiHi SX350J dated 4/28/15. Anyone know what it is? Is it for the chipset only, or for the M class?
Anyone contact yihi regarding titanium wire compatibility? I'd really love to see that hopefully, give TI a shot.
Anyone contact yihi regarding titanium wire compatibility? I'd really love to see that hopefully, give TI a shot.
The file you referenced is an updated specification sheet for the M Class device. Looks like they just changed the typical Ni200 resistance to 0.065 ohms rather that leave that value as a suggestion.
White,
White I doubt YiHi has any interest in Titanium. They still have their work cut out for them getting Ni200 down pat. You can try Ti if you want but remember that your calibration it going to be off. Actually meaningless. But that will not prevent you from playing with it if you want and find your own number that work for you.
Anyone who will listen.LOL I think my AW's are doing the job really well. I have had really good luck with the .09 build at 410 18J. I think I'm going to stick with it for a while. I'm using the soft wire this time but thinking of getting somemore tempered. Only thing I think someone is siphoning juice out of my tank.
The last build I did on my Lemo 2 28 Ga Soft 0.08 ohms running at 25J 425 F TP has been doing the same thing. I have to fill it on average 3 times a day. Also that is taking it easy no chain puffing or it will make me dizzy.
When you hit the sweet spot for your SX build it is KILLER.
Yep it sucks the juice almost as fast as the battery but I'm sure happy with it. So you must be around 6 wraps if you are using 3mm Holman
Got a problem and would love some input. I have rebuilt several coils and am getting very little vapor every time with the Subtank Mini running Ni200 on the RBA. So I have a 30awg Ni200 coil, 2.5 ID. @ .11ohm (4-5 wraps) on the mini and cannot get hardly any vapor out of this thing on the Vapor Shark or SX M-Class. Temp set from 420F - 500F, got slight dry hit at 500F) I really don't know what else to try. Wicking is good. Coil in not touching the deck. Nice spaced coils. The first build I did with the Mini actually worked fine but every rebuild since has been crap
Nope,
I am using 4/3 wraps HOWEVER I am using a 4.5 mm coil ID. I wanted to know if Bigger was really better... for me and my experiment it has been.
I would try the water test on your wick and see if you have hot legs. I've had a lot of issues with hot legs using 30AWG wire. Twisted 30 has been fine, but a single 30 coil spaced has been nothing but trouble
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