Vapor Flask V3 DNA40 Clone thread

[dwcraig1]

With the new forum I'm not sure you can view quotes in their entirety. Having done it, not really sure it is worth the effort. Unless you just can't stand the thought of a fixed pin, it really isn't necessary. Just fix the ground at the 510 & your good to go. If your gonna change boards that is something else. I would fix the ground so as to make it reversible by putting it under the 510 retaining nut & be done with it if I had it to do over again.

Just my 2 cents worth. Do what you will.

I was able to view the entire quote, my plan is to use the existing socket after making some kind of improvement with it's ground. I have an eyelet the right size that I made from copper for a VariTube that went unused. That and change the board. But I'm stumped about the buttons.
Or was stumped about the buttons.
Just looked at my copper eyelet, I'll have to make another, this ones too small ID

 

[TheBloke]

With the new forum I'm not sure you can view quotes in their entirety.

You can, there's a Click to Expand link at the bottom.

But in this case, I didn't quote it fully anyway. What I meant was to click the little arrow that appears in the quote header; eg on your quote of me, see where it says at the top "TheBloke said: ↑" - it's that arrow you click, which is a link to the original post that was quoted so you can read it in-situ (and with full formatting, which doesn't always come out in a quote.)

Having done it, not really sure it is worth the effort. Unless you just can't stand the thought of a fixed pin, it really isn't necessary. Just fix the ground at the 510 & your good to go. If your gonna change boards that is something else. I woulf fix the ground so as to make it reversible if I had it to do over again.

Just my 2 cents worth. Do what you will.

OK, thanks for the thoughts. I don't like the fixed pin at all. But I can live with it. I don't know. I think I'll try, mostly because a) I've already bought the FD and b) I want to do it for the challenge of doing it, even more than the actual result. I've always been very technical, but it's always been exclusively in software. I've never messed about with hardware, electronics etc. Always wanted to, but never got around to it; hence all my newb questions here. vaping is finally getting me to learn a lot more about it, but so far it's all been theory - I've still not done an actual project, with re-wiring, soldering, etc. I thought this could be my first.

In fact I have two projects I want to work on - this one, and also to fix up the crappy ohms reader I bought which I didn't realise had Ego connections for both volts and ohms, rather than Ego for volts and a 510 for ohms. It has an Ego-510 adapter but that's total crap, so I'm thinking I will take it apart and put in a proper 510 for the ohms. Again, as much for the project as for the result. I've bought two 510s for that purpose - one is a very basic, single piece stainless thing, and the other is a cheap Chinese spring loaded 510 that I got from FT and arrived today. I'd like to use the latter, but might use the former if the latter proves unreliable for ohms.

 

[Croak]

Totally not necessary to pull the sled. You can grab it with needle nose & you won't risk marring it that way. It isn't that frigging tight. Just grab it with needle nose & rotate top plate out. Yeah you have right part. You can take the nut the same way but you may mark it that way.

Dwcraig: Why you acting like a noob?

Dwcraig: Just trying to leave a trail for the noobs t follow. I get it! Sorry All!

Mine was super tight mate. Super tight. Took a fair amount of torque with a large set of channel locks to break it loose, and a wrench holding the brass nut.

 

[Tpat591]

You can, there's a Click to Expand link at the bottom.

But in this case, I didn't quote it fully anyway. What I meant was to click the little arrow that appears in the quote header; eg on your quote of me, see where it says at the top "TheBloke said: ↑" - it's that arrow you click, which is a link to the original post that was quoted so you can read it in-situ (and with full formatting, which doesn't always come out in a quote.)



OK, thanks for the thoughts. I don't like the fixed pin at all. But I can live with it. I don't know. I think I'll try, mostly because a) I've already bought the FD and b) I want to do it for the challenge of doing it, even more than the actual result. I've always been very technical, but it's always been exclusively in software. I've never messed about with hardware, electronics etc. Always wanted to, but never got around to it; hence all my newb questions here. vaping is finally getting me to learn a lot more about it, but so far it's all been theory - I've still not done an actual project, with re-wiring, soldering, etc. I thought this could be my first.

In fact I have two projects I want to work on - this one, and also to fix up the crappy ohms reader I bought which I didn't realise had Ego connections for both volts and ohms, rather than Ego for volts and a 510 for ohms. It's total crap, so I'm thinking I will take it apart and put in a proper 510 for the ohms. Again, as much for the project as for the result. I've bought two 510s for that purpose - one is a very basic, single piece stainless thing, and the other is a cheap Chinese spring loaded 510 that I got from FT and arrived today. I'd like to use the latter, but might use the former if the latter proves unreliable for ohms.

Practice on some scap or an project that isn't wort anthing before you go mucking about soldering ChiNA Borads, Ground washers ok.

 

[dwcraig1]

^^^^ I attached a set of leads with probes to a stripped out cartomizer to use the ohm reader like a (multi) meter

 

[TheBloke]

Practice on some scap or an project that isn't wort anthing before you go mucking about soldering ChiNA Borads, Ground washers ok.

Yeah don't worry I'll be trying the ohms reader before the VF, and some breadboard experimentation before even the ohms reader.

 

[TheBloke]

^^^^ I attached a set of leads with probes to a stripped out cartomizer to use the ohm reader like a (multi) meter

Could you post a pic?

So have you turned the cartomizer base into something onto which you can build coils? So it's acting like a simple atty base, onto which you can attach coils, but without an actual atty in use and with an Ego connection rather than 510?

I do actually have two cartomizers, which I used in my first week of vaping until I learnt about 'proper' gear.

I've also been experimenting with using my new DMM as an ohms reader, with limited but not great success - the ohms fluctuate rather too much using the supplied probes; another thing I want to work on, again maybe using one of my purchased 510 connections and wires going from there that are easy to probe from the DMM.

EDIT: Sorry I just read your message again, I think I misunderstood a lot. You're not doing this with or for coils at all? You've turned the vaping ohms reader into a generic ohms reader, on which you can read the ohms of anything via a Cartomizer?

If that's right.. why? Surely you have a much more accurate DMM already?

 

[Tpat591]

Mine was super tight mate. Super tight. Took a fair amount of torque with a large set of channel locks to break it loose, and a wrench holding the brass nut.

Grabbed mine with needle nose & twisted right off but I held nut & twisted plate. Maybe that gave leverage I needed.

Edit: Used a Leatherman multi-tool that probably had more aggressive jaws than your average needle nose pliers set. I'll give that one to Croak, but concept is same.

 

[dwcraig1]

Here, probes with a 510 connector

limited to the little ohm readers scale
Actually it's not a 510 but a 901

 

[TheBloke]

Here, probes with a 510 connector

limited to the little ohm readers scale
Actually it's not a 510 but a 901

Thanks! Very ingenious. But I still don't understand why? Surely it's better to use your DMM - or do you have one that doesn't do two decimal place ohms?

 

[dwcraig1]

Thanks! Very ingenious. But I still don't understand why? Surely it's better to use your DMM - or do you have one that doesn't do two decimal place ohms?

At the time I didn't have one that would read two, still don't I guess, not on that scale anyway

 

[Killerbjt]

So my Kangxin just stopped working, was vaping and after i let go of the fire button the flask kept firing. Had to quickly unscrew atty to stop it, tried reattaching atty, and kept autofiring. Unscrew again and check all the connections and remove the batteries from the flask. Put everything back together and now shows open atty when a atty is connected, tried both the same nickel coil in my Subtank mini and a kanthol OCC in my Nano. Im thinking its something on the 510 connector, think im gonna order a new FD or Varitube 510 and see if that fixes it. Now i just gotta find a good bit to get the top plate off, all the ones i have fit too loose.

 

[Tpat591]

So my Kangxin just stopped working, was vaping and after i let go of the fire button the flask kept firing. Had to quickly unscrew atty to stop it, tried reattaching atty, and kept autofiring. Unscrew again and check all the connections and remove the batteries from the flask. Put everything back together and now shows open atty when a atty is connected, tried both the same nickel coil in my Subtank mini and a kanthol OCC in my Nano. Im thinking its something on the 510 connector, think im gonna order a new FD or Varitube 510 and see if that fixes it. Now i just gotta find a good bit to get the top plate off, all the ones i have fit too loose.

Really sorry to hear about the trouble with it. You got your Kangxin on April 9 from Focal right? I would get in touch with Doris providing a video of the malfunction. Warranty repair it out if you can. By the time they make a decision on it you might be able to swap out trade up to a Waidea with a repaired ground.

 

[Phone Guy]

Well after a couple of days with my Waidea flask and its ChiNA40 chip, I can tell you that the chip is not as effecient as my genuine DNA20 in my other flask. I'm vaping the exact same atty's, same coils, some wattages and I'm running the same batteries down in 1 day on the ChiNA40 chip vs the genuine DNA20...obviously <20w on the ChiNA40 chip too. I've been vaping the exact same everything... I'm averaging a Taifun GT2 (5ml) and a Squape Reloaded (4.5ml) a day (1 tank each full), on the DNA20 flask I'm easily getting the full day and sometimes a day and a half or more. On the ChiNA40 chip I'm running out of battery before the day is up, yesterday I had to swap out for new fresh charged batteries because it wore the 2 fully charged one down. Not complaining, just sharing my experiences... These will both get real DNA40's when they arrive

 

[dwcraig1]

Pretty quiet here, maybe because of the boxing match.

 

[Phone Guy]

The fight was predictable.

 

[dwcraig1]

The fight was predictable.

It went as I figured so ya

 

[KenD]

I messed up my Waidea flask yesterday. I must have dropped it badly, and the battery cap on one side is really stuck in there. Can't even budge it. I'm prepared to use it with a battery only in the other battery tube (as I'll surely destroy the battery cap), but I really need to get the battery out from the messed up tube. Any ideas on how to do that? I could drill to get a some tool in and get a better grip, but the risk of drilling into the battery would be great.

 

[Croak]

If you take the plate off and slide the sled out, you can get at the battery from the top, and there should be enough room to grip the battery with pliers if need be.

 

[WeirdWillie]

If you take the plate off and slide the sled out, you can get at the battery from the top, and there should be enough room to grip the battery with pliers if need be.

I wouldn't go digging around inside with a battery stuck in the tube for chance of shorting something out.

Try seating a nickel or a washer into the slot securely and carefully try and unscrew the cap with a pair of pliers, the aluminum should be soft enough for you to unscrew the much harder brass.