The Burning Workhorse of Hades

[TikPandora]

Hello everyone! I'm seeing to have quite the issue, and have no idea how to fix it.

I just received an 18650 Precise Workhorse mod in the mail the other day and should be absolutely loving it. The only problem is, the button and the area around it sometimes gets so hot that it burns my skin. I've taken the whole thing apart time and time again and have cleaned all the connections throughly, but no matter what I do... I can't get it to stop heating up. This is such a greatly reviewed mech though, that I suspect it has to be something else.

I suspect it may actually be the UD Goblin I use on it. I've taken it apart and rebuilt it many times as well, and my builds usually come out to being about 0.2. I've made sure there are no shorts though, and that the coils aren't touching the side of the chimney.

Does anyone have any advice? I really want to love this setup, but will be unable to if it just keeps getting super hot all the time. Even if it's critical of me as a person, I just need some help on how to make it stop.

 

[ckquatt]

What battery are you using To fire that "about .2 ohm" build?

 

[TikPandora]

A Sony VTC4. Should I try building at a higher ohm? I'm just worried that even if I rip out the build and go again, the same thing is going to happen.

 

[ckquatt]

Yes. I would build at a higher ohm. Also what are you using to measure the resistance? One of those 510 ohm checkers or a mutimeter? The vape shop ohm checkers can be a little inaccurate when building low ohm. I've seen posts where they were off by .1 at least. Thats close enough to a dead short. Test it on a digital multimeter.

 

[Jimi D.]

I'd go with 0.5 ohm. Works great in these new tanks.

 

[TikPandora]

I rebuilt the goblin to .6 and now it basically does the same thing, just with nearly 0 vape output. One spot around the button always heats up, no matter what, and I'm not certain if it's always the same spot.

 

[ckquatt]

Coil up another rda and see if it does the same thing. It may be something inside the mod shorting out.

 

[TikPandora]

I coiled up my buddy's dark horse and stuck it on there. Is the button supposed to get warm at all? Because even with this one on there it's still managing to do the same thing. I never expected to have this issue with a Super T mod.

 

[Froth]

It's a thin wall stainless mod with a stainless button, so it's not the most conductive thing in the world and I'm not surprised that 0.20 is heating the button up. You're creating a small arc between the side of the button and the tube every single time you fire the mod because of how much amperage the battery is pushing, when your finger is close to that arc the current takes the path of least resistance(your finger) and gives you a shock/heat as it discharges in to your skin.

The material the button is made out of is pretty important to the overall conductivity of the mod because it has a poor electrical conductivity when there is a small surface area in play. You can have a stainless tube and be fine because of the large amount of surface, however if you plan to build in the 0.20 range you need to look into more conductive materials in the button if you want to avoid this problem.

 

[TikPandora]

It's a thin wall stainless mod with a stainless button, so it's not the most conductive thing in the world and I'm not surprised that 0.20 is heating the button up. You're creating a small arc between the side of the button and the tube every single time you fire the mod because of how much amperage the battery is pushing, when your finger is close to that arc the current takes the path of least resistance(your finger) and gives you a shock/heat as it discharges in to your skin.

The material the button is made out of is pretty important to the overall conductivity of the mod because it has a poor electrical conductivity when there is a small surface area in play. You can have a stainless tube and be fine because of the large amount of surface, however if you plan to build in the 0.20 range you need to look into more conductive materials in the button if you want to avoid this problem.

Thanks for the super informative reply. The big problem with the Goblin was pretty much that it had to be a super low ohm for me to get anything out of it with a mech. Right after posting this, a buddy of mine convinced me to switch to dripping after using tanks all these years. Seems I can build quite a bit higher on an RDA and still be satisfied.