I can powder coat mine, myself when it gets to lookin bad enough. Thanks
SXmini M Class (TEMP CONTROL)
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I think it looks pretty good stripped down to raw metal. I will probably do that whenever mine gets looking bad enough.
Good stuff and I will post my findings on the V4 thread and let you all know too
I'll be watching.
ETA: I have never run either of my K4's with Kanthal, only Nickel. And, they LIVE on my SX and 40 with virtually no issues.
Slow down. You'll get there...
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Raw metal with a clear powder coat would look good and prevent it from rusting.
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Varitube spent quite a bit of time with YiHi at a Vegas trade show before the M class was released. They posted at that time that they thought the chip was accurate to within 10%. Later, around the time of release, I asked in the thread about temperature accuracy but my question was ignored.
Varitube spent quite a bit of time with YiHi at a Vegas trade show before the M class was released. They posted at that time that they thought the chip was accurate to within 10%. Later, around the time of release, I asked in the thread about temperature accuracy but my question was ignored.
Yep the new ones are different. They almost feel like a fine sandpaper. You should be able to get it replaced. I got a black and a grey and the black has a different paint evidently the black is the one they had the problems with and changed it to what I have now. The grey is still sort of smooth. They are both from the latest batch and the black is the only one that has this finish. So far.
Hey Papa, I have no experience with a Kayfun V4, or a Lemo or Lemo V2, but I've given up my Kafun V2 for the Erlkonigin and, heaven forbid, the clones. It's just a straight forward build and works great with a 4/5 wrap at 3 mm, 28g Ni and KGD cotton on my sx mini M at about .07. Quorax is the dude and you can see his builds and tips on other threads. Works great for me. Fewer parts and heartaches IMOP. I actually went there prior to TC and loved it with Kanthal. A clone from FT would be a quick and cheap way to try it out. 2 cents please.
I'm sure the K4 would work just fine with nickel especially with the SX since you lock in the resistance. I just like the way it looks on my P3. I love the way the Kangers work on the M.I'll be watching.
ETA: I have never run either of my K4's with Kanthal, only Nickel. And, they LIVE on my SX and 40 with virtually no issues.
Slow down. You'll get there...
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Are you saying they will replace it under warranty because of a faulty paint?
Yes I was told if you have one of the early black ones that the paint chips off or comes off with your fingernail they will replace it just contact your vendor.
Thanks for posting that peraspera I hadn't seen that post previously. I could easily see that degree of tolerance back in January while they were still in development. But we haven't seen anything or heard anything from the manufacture or anywhere else to substantiate any claims to accuracy or tolerance on the public release that I'm aware of.
Hopefully someone will answer your question on the other thread and if they do please link to it here as there seems to be some that will just randomly pick a number of 10%,15% or 20% depending on what post you read and claim it as fact.
I have the grey/silver and the grey is marring from where I hold it. Two spots where my middle finger and ring finger hold it. Not through the paint but there is a slightly different color / texture to it there. Thinking of just doing a clear matte enamel to protect it before it get's really bad. Rust-Oleum Stops Rust 12 oz. Clear Matte Protective Enamel Spray Paint-285093 - The Home Depot
Would love to know how easy that goes on if/when you do it. As in prep work and what not.
Mine still looks new, but I wanna keep it that way. So this is either going to get something like that or pay a visit to OCD but I don't wanna lose the one year warranty .
Might not be a bad idea, let us know how it turns out if you do decide to.
Dude, The 10% was EXACTLY the number I had stated. It is also the number shown in the FLIR that PB used in his video in APRIL. Clearly shows readings of 330 (when set to 300) and 551 (when set to 500). 10.0% and 10.2%.
That # is based upon the "ideal" "recommended" build. Variate from that by going up to 0.15, 0.20, 0.30, 0.50 ohms builds and you will be even further off.
But heck.... Nows its only me, PB, varitube and yihi. Guess you need more proof?
Its ok though. At least we learned the moon is a planet and we can drive a 25000 lb truck over a 3k limit bridge because it only becomes 500 pounds if we reset the scale at zero first.
@Vlad1 and @Fir3b1rd .... i'll give you a hug.
Yea, That's really what's holding me back. If anything goes wrong later on and I have to send it in and it's been painted that could be a problem. As for prep for me it would be pretty easy. I wouldn't disassemble I'd just mask the C-frame and paint away.
Lol, I would feel the need to water block, bondo, water block, prime, water lock, then paint, water block, clear.Yea, That's really what's holding me back. If anything goes wrong later on and I have to send it in and it's been painted that could be a problem. As for prep for me it would be pretty easy. I wouldn't disassemble I'd just mask the C-frame and paint away.
Once I start I get this terrible need to go into overkill mode.
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