Eleaf istick 50w Owners Group
- Thread starter JeremyR
- Start date
- th_trl_thread_readers 0
-
- Tags
- eleaf istick 50w
- Status
Someone mentioned in an earlier post that it needs a reset switch. The adjustment buttons worked fine and read atomizers fine but the fire button was completely dead and I could not power it off. After that short it works again. Still using the Kbox instead though.
First defect rearing its ugly head. The unit is reading resistance too high and resistance is jumping around. 1.0 ohm build went up to 2.2 randomly, then down to 1.4 and everywhere in between. I feel like it's a DNA40 rev. 1.0 all over again. Lol.
My defect with the 50 is that it won't hold a charge. After a complete charge, it will last around an hour's worth of moderate vaping.
It is back to stable this morning. All I can think is it was overheated yesterday being in pocket while walking around an amusement park all day. Not much vaping there though, so light use. We'll see how it fares today.
You sure you don't have a screw loose? ...
With all that bouncing around..
How does it die?
Battery runs down fast to zero then locks?
Or your vaping then all the sudden it shuts off/ dies?
I had my istick 50w mess up last night. rebuilt my lemo took a few hits, sat it down was reading some ecf stuff ,then I heard a sizzling sound looked over and it was auto firing soild burnt up my lemo burnt the juice. let it cool down and it was dead. would not charge ,kept on playing with the fire button and came back and was working. so today I tore it down and there was juice in the bottom cap and on the fire button. a month ago I had a budda dump all the juice at once ,thought I had it cleaned up. figured out the juice came in by the screw right above the fire button and top cap. so I cleaned it and fixed the fire button by clipping off the tabs off the silicone gasket around the fire button ,then used a glue gun and filled the back of the button flush with glue. then I used silicone sealeant on the top cap between it and the body and also the screw holes. Put it back together and fire button works real good. letting dry over night.will never buy another and I really don't trust this one
Farsalino is sayin don't ever heat your coils red now cause it makes them dangerous. If he knew how much gas I breath in welding NiChrome and Stainless, he'd have a heart attack 
The end of microcoils? | Page 12 | E-Cigarette Forum
The end of microcoils? | Page 12 | E-Cigarette Forum
I have my USB charging station on a platform on the floor. While I was charging my iStick 50W, I accidentally knocked over my Sentinel M16 mech clone [with battery] from the workstation above, which fell 2 feet onto the iStick50 watt!
The iStick 50w still fires and charges -- no issues! I feared that the charging port might have been damaged, but no. Everything is fine. The 50W is built well enough to take the brunt of impact. Works like it did on Day 1.
The iStick 50w still fires and charges -- no issues! I feared that the charging port might have been damaged, but no. Everything is fine. The 50W is built well enough to take the brunt of impact. Works like it did on Day 1.
Had the same thing happen today. Sitting here by my computer and hear an atomizer firing. Looked at all of them I had and my eleaf Istick 50W display was on. Fired it a few times and then it autofired until it timed out. I took the cap off and reset the switch because it was mushy and its better clicky wise but then started autofiring again. Seems the Orchid V7 I have on it has a bit of a leak like orchids are known for and juice got down into the switch. Going to hit it with some contact cleaner and see if it helps and if it dont, back to the manufacturer it goes.
Update on this, took it apart and cleaned it with contact cleaner. Put it back together and put a Kayfun V4 on it that doesnt leak and its working flawlessly at the moment. Really liked it for the Orchids but if leaking is gonna cause them to possibly autofire until melt down then wont put any leakers on it.
Last edited:
After about 10 days of use mine is still running good (lol). One thing I've noticed is when I first got it, screwing an atty down all the way to flush gave me weird resistance readings, but now it jumps if it isn't screwed all the way down. I assume it's the spring going from too much tension when it was new to now getting worn in from the heat going through it - that's why I don't like springs.. eventually it will wear down so much I'll have to extend the contacts on my atties to make a good connection with the istick, been there done that. Minor gripe but I prefer the sturdy contacts that are adjustable with a flat head than these cheap "spring loaded" that are all the rage now...
I just bought my to iSticks to see how I like boxes after all.
I don't expect them to survive that long.
Already got a few new boxes in sight.
But so far I love my iSticks.
I don't expect them to survive that long.
Already got a few new boxes in sight.
But so far I love my iSticks.
Mine is about 20 days old. Not a single problem until today and atty's screwed on mine with no problems.
Never had any issues with mine, but have seen countless reports, videos, etc. about auto firing which I believe will totally be attributed to juice leaking in through the screw hole that sits under the topper in front of the 510. Maybe i can unscrew that thing and use a small rubber washer or cavity grease on the threads to prevent stuff from dripping down there.
After cleaning the switch of juice with contact cleaner it lasted a couple hours then started auto firing again so I am gonna send the POS back to them. Prob wont be able to get a refund
90 day warranty if you are not passed it and still have your box.After cleaning the switch of juice with contact cleaner it lasted a couple hours then started auto firing again so I am gonna send the POS back to them. Prob wont be able to get a refund
service@ismoka.com
Last edited:
I had one auto fire and not a drop of juice was found inside. Nothing was even slightly damp. No leaks whatsoever. I would suspect juice leaking through the 510 pin before the little end cap screws.
- Status
