Subtank mini RBA nickel build

[trdjun]

Greetings all!

As nickel builds/temperature control are relatively new to most of us vapers, I thought I'll start this discussion to gather input from you folks who are using nickel with temperature control.

I'm doing this as I myself have been struggling to get the limited information about nickel "how tos".

Please, for those who are on prebuild nickel coils, this thread is solely for "rebuilding with nickels only."

I'm running nickel builds on my subtank mini rba alongside with my new ipv4.

I've tried various setups searched from all over youtube and the internet. So far, there isn't a video by the big reviewers like riptrippers or pbusardo on rebuilding the subtank mini.

From what I gathered, the 28g ni200 seems to be the 1st choice for majority of the people. I understand that everyone has their own preferred build, what works for one might not work for another.

I've tried 28g, 5 wraps, 8 wraps, 9 wraps, 12 wraps all on 3mm diameter screwdriver. However, I'm unable to achieve that satisfying vape I get from kanthal. My vape seems dull. Not as sweet as kanthal. I've heard from some friends that flavour on nickel is not as good as kanthal.

So the questions.
1. Please share your setups. (Awg nickel used, wraps, diameter, ohms, temp set, wattage.)
2. For good old kanthal, one simply dry burns away the gunk. How do you remove gunk with nickel? I've tried torching it and it ruins the coil. I've also tried coating some eliquid on the coils so the chip fires without getting dry coil warning but it dosent really remove gunk.
3. Is kanthal really better for flavour compared to nickel?

I hope you vapers out there who are on nickel builds on subtank minis will be able to contribute. I would prefer vapers on subtanks to contribute as I believe its one of the more popular sub-ohm tanks today.

Like I say, everyone has their favourite setup. I hope these input will allow the rest of us to try new builds to see what suits us best!

 

[ahmadmfz]

Hey man. Welcome to the world of TC. I'm rocking my RBA with a twisted ni200 build, 28g wrapped 7 times around 3mm diameter. Great flavor, satisfying enough for me. Using it at 25w.

As for gunking I just dry fire it man lol. As long as you don't touch the coil while it is still hot it won't deform.

 

[trdjun]

hi bro what temp set at and how many ohms?

 

[ahmadmfz]

hi bro what temp set at and how many ohms?

Temp set at 450 since I'm hitting TC at 420 too often @25w. Build is usually 0.10-0.12.

 

[Ennsem]

hmm from what i've seen in videos, is it true that with nickel and temperature control you'll never get a dry hit?

 

[Minzy]

hmm from what i've seen in videos, is it true that with nickel and temperature control you'll never get a dry hit?

yup. but i havent heard of anyone vaping at the max temperature. so don't know if dry hits will occur then. But at the lower temps, yea, pretty much no dry hits.

 

[sonicbomb]

Hey man. Welcome to the world of TC. I'm rocking my RBA with a twisted ni200 build, 28g wrapped 7 times around 3mm diameter. Great flavor, satisfying enough for me. Using it at 25w.

That comes out to 0.05 ohms, is that safe? I thought the optimal resistance was 0.15ish?

 

[chia]

Cleaning the wires 1st is a good idea. Some use ultrasonic cleaners I just use alcohol swaps..
28g 6-7 wraps probably about 0.15 is close.. Maybe typo?
Taste wise is subjective.. Unless you are on the same mod same setting same atty same juice all the time it's pretty hard, at least for me, to say which is better..
But being able to regulate temperature to avoid overheating and dry hits is a big plus for me.. Nevermind if I lose a bit of flavor
As for gunk I just rebuild every 2 tanks or so.. Some I read can last 5-6 tanks on a single coil build, but may be the juice he is using..

 

[2legsshrt]

Well I thought I would put this in to warn people about Kanger. I recently bought some new air flow bases for some of my STM's and one has a static resitance of .05ohms. If you are building for the SX I build at .08 you can see the problem .08 turns into .13 not good.

 

[ahmadmfz]

That comes out to 0.05 ohms, is that safe? I thought the optimal resistance was 0.15ish?

For nickel I usually don't trust the generator. I usually build and check the resting resistance. If it's too low I'll rebuild till I hit a comfortable resistance.

Sent from my A0001 using Tapatalk

 

[sonicbomb]

The reason I asked is because I want to do twisted builds, but the amount of wraps I need to use to adhere to the ideal resistance is prohibitive.

 

[ahmadmfz]

Works fine for me.

Sent from my A0001 using Tapatalk

 

[zoiDman]

Wow... Check out that Green e-Liquid!

 

[chia]

Broccoli flavor.. Lol

 

[Minzy]

Broccoli flavor.. Lol

*pukes in mouth*

 

[gianthaze]

coming from kanthal and not been vaping for almost a year, i recently picked up a subtank mini and a dna40 to try out this TC thingy. used the calculator from steam engine and my build is usually 3mm dia with 10 wraps of 28AWG Ni200 spaced coils. I set my temp between 400F to 420F. my wattage is around 20W to 28W. currently my juice is a 30PG/70VG.

i do get some spit back at times. still figuring this out TC out. one thing i notice u cannot do chain vape as the temperature protection will kick in. anyone care to share their TC experience?

Coil wrapping | Steam Engine | free vaping calculators

 

[ahmadmfz]

Your wicking isn't on wickin f fast enough if you hit TP. Your TP quite low also. I set mine 23w 450F, rarely get temp protection. Sometimes just ramp down power to 20w.


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[gianthaze]

So what's the best way to determine where to set the temperature limit? What I do is first determine the point where my wicking material will first start to burn. So I wrap a coil and place a piece of wick in it. Set the temp to say 450 degrees and fire for 4 or 5 seconds. Then slide the wick and check it. If there isn't any browning then I know that's fine so I can bump the temp up higher. Keep repeating this until you see the wick start to brown. Once you do then you know that's the point where you're going to start to burn the wick and you should use that as an "upper limit" for your settings. So let's say you're using cotton and you find your particular cotton can handle 470 degrees before it browns. So you know you never want to go above that setting. Now as for going lower, you'll find that as you lower the temp the vape will get cooler and the taste will change a bit. I personally find that 450 - 460 is right around the sweet spot. That's way below the char point of my rayon wick, but seems to give excellent flavor from just about every juice I own. I have found a couple of juices though that seem to give a slightly better flavor down as low as 410 -420, though those seem to be the rare exception. I suspect if you typically use juices higher in PG you might find they work better with slightly lower temps while higher VG requires higher temps.

taken from DNA 40 Tips - Rebel Vaper

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[chia]

Need to consider a few factors.. How 'packed' is the cotton.. Temp set W set etc.. 70VG is also rather slow wicking itself..

 

[zeef]

Had a couple of crappy builds on my subtank mini with nickel...but as of now...I'm running 28gauge 7 wraps around 3mm screwdriver... coming to 0.08...as far as wicking is concerned I believee less is more. But I'm using the rba plus so I have longer cotton ends to ensure no overflowing of juices into the huge juice channels...For high vg I'm vaping at 420-440...even 500....but lower vg like 50/50 I lower it to maybe 360-400....running on 20 - 30 joules....chucking clouds...no dry hits...