Erlkonigin and Clone Comparison

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Phone Guy

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I've been looking also, but haven't found any, sorry.

I did get that FT Ubertoot clone. I like it, but not sure I like it enough to try for an authentic. I am glad it has no logos.
The uber is on my radar. How is it? Better than a taifun?
Have you guys checked Gearbest?


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Yes they got the tank, no nano stuff
 

Katya

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Well, I just got two nanos... :blush:

I really wanted to love them. I managed to get one of them to work (after an initial catastrophic leak). It's working, the vape is nice, warm, saturated. I like everything about this atty but it has a constantly wet 510 pin. It's not leaking, per se, it's just that when I unscrew it from the battery, there is always a drop of eliquid sitting there, in the 510 well. A tiny drop, but it drives me nuts. So I'm using it on my iStick 20 with an adapter--I don't want to ruin the battery. I checked that silicone insulator under the 510 pin--it's all the way in, snug as a bug. The pin is also in tightly. No leaks from the tank anywhere. I think my coil and wick are OK--chunky and all.

What am I doing wrong? The other one is still in the box. I don't like wet feet. :facepalm:
 
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Richu75

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Well, I just got two nanos... :blush:

I really wanted to love them. I managed to get one of them to work (after an initial catastrophic leak). It's working, the vape is nice, warm, saturated. I like everything about this atty but it has a constantly wet 510 pin. It's not leaking, per se, it's just that when I unscrew it from the battery, there is always a drop of eliquid sitting there, in the 510 well. A tiny drop, but it drives me nuts. So I'm using it on my iStick 20 with an adapter--I don't want to ruin the battery. I checked that silicone insulator under the 510 pin--it's all the way in, snug as a bug. The pin is also in tightly. No leaks from the tank anywhere. I think my coil and wick are OK--chunky and all.

What am I doing wrong? The other one is still in the box. I don't like wet feet. :facepalm:

I've put in an extra o-rings (one in each nano) in the actual 510 connector. If you inscrew the positive pin, there is a white insulator. The o-ring sits above that. No leaking thru the 510 in all the nano's here.

It's not even water tight, I cut a 4x1 to the right size to fit. But the positive pin sticks out a little bit after placing the o-ring. So mine don't sit flush on the mod anymore. There is a little gap of about 1 mm.
 

Katya

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I've put in an extra o-rings (one in each nano) in the actual 510 connector. If you inscrew the positive pin, there is a white insulator. The o-ring sits above that. No leaking thru the 510 in all the nano's here.

It's not even water tight, I cut a 4x1 to the right size to fit. But the positive pin sticks out a little bit after placing the o-ring. So mine don't sit flush on the mod anymore. There is a little gap of about 1 mm.

Thanks!

So the o-ring goes in first? Then the insulator, then the pin?

And how did you cut the 4x1? Crosswise? I'm not so sure I can do it right...
 
I've been searching for an Erlk Nano/parts too. Haven't found them anywhere... :cry:

I may have found some. I don't have them in my possession yet, but I do have 2 chimneys and one chimney/tank kit on order. The seller is showing about 100 in stock for each. Film at eleven...




 

capthook

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Well, I just got two nanos... :blush:

I really wanted to love them. I managed to get one of them to work (after an initial catastrophic leak). It's working, the vape is nice, warm, saturated. I like everything about this atty but it has a constantly wet 510 pin. It's not leaking, per se, it's just that when I unscrew it from the battery, there is always a drop of eliquid sitting there, in the 510 well. A tiny drop, but it drives me nuts. So I'm using it on my iStick 20 with an adapter--I don't want to ruin the battery. I checked that silicone insulator under the 510 pin--it's all the way in, snug as a bug. The pin is also in tightly. No leaks from the tank anywhere. I think my coil and wick are OK--chunky and all.

What am I doing wrong? The other one is still in the box. I don't like wet feet. :facepalm:

Thinking of 3 possible things:
1) The suggestion of checking the o-ring is a good one. Here's a pic:
aa12.jpg


2) Condensation builds up over time under the atty. For me, it doesn't 'drip' into the 510 well of the Istick, just small droplets on the top.
(I'm of the notion that the primary culprit of this is the vapor left in the atty after a draw...I usually release the fire button 1 sec before end of draw..)
Here's a pic of a day's use (in cold winter it is a tad more):
aa11.jpg


3) The 'gravity fed' design means the 'shoulders' of the wick basically 'holds back the torrent of juice' that would otherwise flood it. Using a bit more wick down the channels might help if it seems a wicking problem?
(ETA: As in the wick is over-saturated, causing a small amount to drip off the wick down the air hole - a little more in channels might provide 'extra juice buffer'.
I take my JOC strip, pull it through the coil so the pad stays in the 'vertical' postion (ie flat like it was when cutting), then cut to length to the base oring... then fan/open the wick and cut off the top 75% of the wicking flush with the edge of the top curve. This leaves ~25% to go down the channels.)

The bottom of the atty 510 pin is always dry for me.
I have the AFC ring removed.
Coil: 28g, 8 wraps, 1.6ohms, JOC, 9 watts.
 
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Katya

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Thinking of 3 possible things:
1) The suggestion of checking the o-ring is a good one. Here's a pic:
aa12-jpg.459201

Um... I a bit confused here. I just unscrewed the 510 pin (took it out) and then took out the silicone insulator/plug where the pin was. We're talking about the bottom of the atty--I haven't taken the building deck apart at all. Not sure where this extra o-ring would go. I thought Richu suggested inserting an o-ring right there, before putting the plug and the pin back in. Sorry I'm so dense. :facepalm:

2) Condensation builds up over time under the atty. For me, it doesn't 'drip' into the 510 well of the Istick, just small droplets on the top.
(I'm of the notion that the primary culprit of this is the vapor left in the atty after a draw...I usually release the fire button 1 sec before end of draw..)
Here's a pic of a day's use (in cold winter it is a tad more):
aa11-jpg.459202

That's funny--I have no droplets anywhere around the perimeter of the atty--just the 510 pin is wet to the touch. I just checked it again--it's not leaking, the well is dry, but the top of the pin is always moist. I think it gets more so as the level of the eliquid in the tank drops.

3) The 'gravity fed' design means the 'shoulders' of the wick basically 'holds back the torrent of juice' that would otherwise flood it. Using a bit more wick down the channels might help if it seems a wicking problem?

This build I'm using now has almost no wick in the channels--I used the fat lazy foolproof build per Q's instructions. No ring either--my first build was all fancy--four cuts, ring, rayon--disaster. So I went to plan B. :D

The bottom of the atty 510 pin is always dry for me.
I have the AFC ring removed.
Coil: 28g, 8 wraps, 1.6ohms, JOC, 9 watts.

Yeah. My build is similar to yours--I just used 29 g kanthal. Tried it both ways--with and without AFC, wet foot. :grr:

I'll keep trying, but honestly, my K4 is such a dreamy vape--and zero problems. Yes, it's big and over engineered, but it works.

I'll try a chunkier wick. I even considered getting a full size Erlk and swap out the base--just to see if I got a lousy nano or if I'm doing something wrong.

Thank you so much for your help!
 

capthook

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took out the silicone insulator/plug where the pin was
Ah... this:
aa13.jpg

Removing the white insulator on the 510 post piece would be difficult on all of mine... they are.. snug... like glued in.
Checking/lubing the oring I pictured earlier couldn't hurt. Is it even there? hehe.

This build I'm using now has almost no wick in the channels
The few builds I tried with no wicking down the channels didn't go so well (leaking) with my 2.4mm coils (JOC), too narrow a wick IMO. 3.0mm might could work.
Getting the wicking 'right' for your vape can take a few trial and errors on the Erl.
Try another wick with ~25% volume down the channels....
 
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Katya

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Removing the white insulator on the 510 post piece would be difficult on all of mine... they are.. snug... like glued in.
Checking/lubing the oring I pictured earlier couldn't hurt. Is it even there? hehe.

There's an o-ring there on your Erlk??? :shock: No o-ring here--I took my deck apart. What size is that o-ring? Can you tell? 3 mm? 4 mm? And my silicone plug is not very snug at all and I can easily unscrew it. Weird.
 
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Katya

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The few builds I tried with no wicking down the channels didn't go so well (leaking) with my 2.4mm coils (JOC), too narrow a wick IMO. 3.0mm might could work.
Getting the wicking 'right' for your vape can take a few trial and errors on the Erl.
Try another wick with ~25% volume down the channels....

Katya, if its going down the 510, I think its the wicking. Either you need a little more tail in the channels, or more likely, bigger shoulders. Before you rewick next, can you take a pic of your old wick?

Thanks--will do!

Can't take any pictures now--company... And my camera is pretty bad. :facepalm:
 
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Phone Guy

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I've got 1 erlkonigin clone from fasttech that simply will not come apart. Remove the 510 screw and that's it. The 510 threaded section wobbles like crazy (screw in or out doesn't matter) but it will not come apart from the base, and I can not take out the air tube part either. :(

My other 2 are not like that. They are solid at the 510 threading (no wobble) and I can remove the 510 threaded section from the base and then remove the air tube from deck.
 

capthook

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There's an o-ring there on your Erlk??? :shock: No o-ring here--I took my deck apart. What size is that o-ring?

O ring there? Really? My erlprinz doesn't have an O-ring there

24g9kqw.jpg

(pic from qorax erl thread)
It's the same as the ones for the fill ports in the top plate - 3x1 mm
 

capthook

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I've got 1 erlkonigin clone from fasttech that simply will not come apart. Remove the 510 screw and that's it. The 510 threaded section wobbles like crazy (screw in or out doesn't matter) but it will not come apart from the base

Almost surprising this isn't more common.
The sides/threads of the 510 post have flat spots ground into them to fit - looks to be done by hand, so inconsistent.
1 of my clones needed a quick file to get it to fit smoothly.
You might try vise grips. And/or put in freezer, then pour hot water on the outside. (cold inside small/hot outside big)
I spun the orientation of the post by 90 degrees to reduce the airflow/improve flavor from having the AFC ring removed.
upload_2015-5-25_22-13-43.png
 

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