rebuilding
- Thread starter meatdonkey
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I don't have the answers for you but I will say:
Welcome!
And a free bump to hopefully help you get exposure for your question
Welcome!
And a free bump to hopefully help you get exposure for your question
I don't have the answers for you but I will say:
Welcome!
And a free bump to hopefully help you get exposure for your question
Thank you for the welcome I've been reading a while just decided to join
I have rebuilt coils in thr past due to lack of funds its not an easy task to get rigjt on the first few times. Never really tried on my artic bc at the moment the coils are fairly cheap. Have you tried less cotton?
The Subtank seems to be the easiest to rebuild. I've tried rebuilding an Atlantis atomizer but it was just a waste of time.
Hi MeatDonkey,
Like you I've been a long time reader of ECF and finally decided to join today, so here goes nothing
I've rebuilt the Subtank coils many times before, its actually quite easy once you manage to separate the top of the coil assembly from the rest. (I'm talking about the little seam right above the coil). Its just press fit and its actually a circular inner fitting so all you need are two pliers and a little bit of elbow grease. Once that's done and you have removed the coil and wick (pull out the bottom pin and the little insulator just above it, the old coil should come right out), find a drill bit the fits the two juice holes, wrap a coil, remove the bit, and insert the coil into the assembly. Then you want to put the drill bit back in the coil through the juice ports so it aligns. Once that is done, fasten down the leads with the insulator and bottom pin and remove the drill bit. Now all you need to do is feed some cotton through the juice ports, I usually cut it about a mm or two before the edge of the coil assembly, and then just push the excess into the juice ports so it forms a little cotton cloud on the inside of the coil assembly but makes good contact with both the coil and the edge of the juice ports. Put the top back on, check the resistance, prime, and off you go! Hope that helps.
Regarding the other coils I have no experience but based on the various different videos on youtube they seem to be much more of a PITA to take apart, much less rebuild
Like you I've been a long time reader of ECF and finally decided to join today, so here goes nothing
I've rebuilt the Subtank coils many times before, its actually quite easy once you manage to separate the top of the coil assembly from the rest. (I'm talking about the little seam right above the coil). Its just press fit and its actually a circular inner fitting so all you need are two pliers and a little bit of elbow grease. Once that's done and you have removed the coil and wick (pull out the bottom pin and the little insulator just above it, the old coil should come right out), find a drill bit the fits the two juice holes, wrap a coil, remove the bit, and insert the coil into the assembly. Then you want to put the drill bit back in the coil through the juice ports so it aligns. Once that is done, fasten down the leads with the insulator and bottom pin and remove the drill bit. Now all you need to do is feed some cotton through the juice ports, I usually cut it about a mm or two before the edge of the coil assembly, and then just push the excess into the juice ports so it forms a little cotton cloud on the inside of the coil assembly but makes good contact with both the coil and the edge of the juice ports. Put the top back on, check the resistance, prime, and off you go! Hope that helps.
Regarding the other coils I have no experience but based on the various different videos on youtube they seem to be much more of a PITA to take apart, much less rebuild
Hi MeatDonkey,
Like you I've been a long time reader of ECF and finally decided to join today, so here goes nothing
I've rebuilt the Subtank coils many times before, its actually quite easy once you manage to separate the top of the coil assembly from the rest. (I'm talking about the little seam right above the coil). Its just press fit and its actually a circular inner fitting so all you need are two pliers and a little bit of elbow grease. Once that's done and you have removed the coil and wick (pull out the bottom pin and the little insulator just above it, the old coil should come right out), find a drill bit the fits the two juice holes, wrap a coil, remove the bit, and insert the coil into the assembly. Then you want to put the drill bit back in the coil through the juice ports so it aligns. Once that is done, fasten down the leads with the insulator and bottom pin and remove the drill bit. Now all you need to do is feed some cotton through the juice ports, I usually cut it about a mm or two before the edge of the coil assembly, and then just push the excess into the juice ports so it forms a little cotton cloud on the inside of the coil assembly but makes good contact with both the coil and the edge of the juice ports. Put the top back on, check the resistance, prime, and off you go! Hope that helps.
Regarding the other coils I have no experience but based on the various different videos on youtube they seem to be much more of a PITA to take apart, much less rebuild
They are easier to disassemble than you'd think.... you can even get a semifunctional coil on atlantis or artic.... however a coil that is close to factory specs is my goal.
Now about that occ head youre saying it's press fit? I've tried do you think a burnisher would do it? I'm close on the occ if I could get the top of I could get it
On the squared off portion of the head, you'll see a little seam about 3mm from the top. That is the press fit cap. Grip that with one pair of pliers and grip the rest of the assembly (BUT NOT THE THREADS!!!) with another pair of pliers and twist the two sections apart. Some grunting may be involved but its pretty easy. I think Phil Busardo demonstrated how to take apart the coils in his review of the Subtank, so if you're more of a visual guy you might want to have a look at that.
I actually did a "walk-through" with a new member on here on rebuilding the OCC head, and it was very easy they said. @kitten182
Only thing you gotta worry about is the wicking lol. THAT's the hard part. Having the right amount for the type of juice you use. More cotton for 50/50, less for Max or High VG (It's possible).
the subtank comes with a rebuildable head
rebuildable head for subtankmini and subtankplus
You speak the truth. That being said, both seem to work better with high VG than the RBA section. Maybe its just me but thick juice doesn't seem to like those two tiny little holes on the RBA
I've rebuilt the subtank OCC heads. I use a subtank Nano, so no RBA. It's so easy, I don't even think I'd bother with the RBA part... you get more juice from the OCC coils, and from what I've heard, more juice flow.
As far as disassembling the top part... I don't even bother with that. As long as you can get a coil through the top part, you're fine. I view it as an unnecessary step, and hard to re-press it back in. Rip Trippers does it this way as well as can be seen here. I'm actually preferring rebuilding my own to my own liking.
As far as disassembling the top part... I don't even bother with that. As long as you can get a coil through the top part, you're fine. I view it as an unnecessary step, and hard to re-press it back in. Rip Trippers does it this way as well as can be seen here. I'm actually preferring rebuilding my own to my own liking.
Yeah, you don't have to take the press fit off. When you put your coil down in the top hole of the OCC, slide the little blue screwdriver through the airflow hole, through the coil, and out the other side of the airflow hole and it will stay secure and in the correct place while you put the rubber insulator and metal pin back in.
Do not ask me how but I get a coil that refuses to stay put after its back together.... just argh... I'll figure it out.... did have one running momentarily though... I've gotten the Subtank b4 the main issue is I can't quite get the bvc style build on at Lantus or artic to work well...
I agree that you don't have to remove the press fit, but I do find the added space to be helpful when I install the coil. Also, most of the coils I've rebuilt have been Ni200, so I really like having a better view with that annoyingly finicky wire.
Take this with a grain of salt because I have no experience, but it seems to me that the BVC coil designs have a really long lead running from the top of the coil, which I suspect turns into a hot leg when you apply current to it. Might have more success (and way more annoyance) using a res-no res join.
Well, if you heat up the coil, and the legs and make them glow (With a torch lighter NOT dry firing) it will prevent 99% of hot legs. (Do this after wrapping coils and holding with pliers)
Should I still dry fire before I try to wick it? Or since it has to be wrapped just close my eyes and hope?
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