I don't have the answers for you but I will say:
Welcome!
And a free bump to hopefully help you get exposure for your question
Hi MeatDonkey,
Like you I've been a long time reader of ECF and finally decided to join today, so here goes nothing
I've rebuilt the Subtank coils many times before, its actually quite easy once you manage to separate the top of the coil assembly from the rest. (I'm talking about the little seam right above the coil). Its just press fit and its actually a circular inner fitting so all you need are two pliers and a little bit of elbow grease. Once that's done and you have removed the coil and wick (pull out the bottom pin and the little insulator just above it, the old coil should come right out), find a drill bit the fits the two juice holes, wrap a coil, remove the bit, and insert the coil into the assembly. Then you want to put the drill bit back in the coil through the juice ports so it aligns. Once that is done, fasten down the leads with the insulator and bottom pin and remove the drill bit. Now all you need to do is feed some cotton through the juice ports, I usually cut it about a mm or two before the edge of the coil assembly, and then just push the excess into the juice ports so it forms a little cotton cloud on the inside of the coil assembly but makes good contact with both the coil and the edge of the juice ports. Put the top back on, check the resistance, prime, and off you go! Hope that helps.
Regarding the other coils I have no experience but based on the various different videos on youtube they seem to be much more of a PITA to take apart, much less rebuild
They are easier to disassemble than you'd think.... you can even get a semifunctional coil on atlantis or artic.... however a coil that is close to factory specs is my goal.
Now about that occ head youre saying it's press fit? I've tried do you think a burnisher would do it? I'm close on the occ if I could get the top of I could get it
On the squared off portion of the head, you'll see a little seam about 3mm from the top. That is the press fit cap. Grip that with one pair of pliers and grip the rest of the assembly (BUT NOT THE THREADS!!!) with another pair of pliers and twist the two sections apart. Some grunting may be involved but its pretty easy. I think Phil Busardo demonstrated how to take apart the coils in his review of the Subtank, so if you're more of a visual guy you might want to have a look at that.
Anyone try rebuilding artic, atlantis, subtank, or gladius coils?
I have rda and an rta but I like the concept of turning any tank into an rta but I have trouble with flooding but if I fix that I get airflow issues any advice?
Only thing you gotta worry about is the wicking lol. THAT's the hard part. Having the right amount for the type of juice you use. More cotton for 50/50, less for Max or High VG (It's possible).
Yeah, you don't have to take the press fit off. When you put your coil down in the top hole of the OCC, slide the little blue screwdriver through the airflow hole, through the coil, and out the other side of the airflow hole and it will stay secure and in the correct place while you put the rubber insulator and metal pin back in.
Yeah, you don't have to take the press fit off. When you put your coil down in the top hole of the OCC, slide the little blue screwdriver through the airflow hole, through the coil, and out the other side of the airflow hole and it will stay secure and in the correct place while you put the rubber insulator and metal pin back in.
Take this with a grain of salt because I have no experience, but it seems to me that the BVC coil designs have a really long lead running from the top of the coil, which I suspect turns into a hot leg when you apply current to it. Might have more success (and way more annoyance) using a res-no res join.Do not ask me how but I get a coil that refuses to stay put after its back together.... just argh... I'll figure it out.... did have one running momentarily though... I've gotten the Subtank b4 the main issue is I can't quite get the bvc style build on at Lantus or artic to work well...
Well, if you heat up the coil, and the legs and make them glow (With a torch lighter NOT dry firing) it will prevent 99% of hot legs. (Do this after wrapping coils and holding with pliers)