Vapor Flask V3 DNA40 Clone thread

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AtmizrOpin

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Can anyone help and point me in the direction for a replacement fire button switch for my Waidea. I went to pull on the chrome plated button piece and the guts of the switch came out with it. I would really like to find one as close to stock as possible with that protruding plunger that snaps into the chrome piece. I swear when it rains it pours when my bad luck kicks in.
 

AtmizrOpin

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I missed this post before I made my last post on warranty.... so it's a genuine VS.....I like having the screen on the bottom.
Oh yeah she's American. Vaporshark.com had a fire sale on the older large screen dna 40(no atty lock). The said in the disclaimer that this is the version that has been known to have the screen glitch. But for $84 with coupon code : memorial20, I couldn't pass it up. She's so tiny I'm afraid I'm gonna lose her in the couch cushions, lol.
 

Phone Guy

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Oh yeah she's American. Vaporshark.com had a fire sale on the older large screen dna 40(no atty lock). The said in the disclaimer that this is the version that has been known to have the screen glitch. But for $84 with coupon code : memorial20, I couldn't pass it up. She's so tiny I'm afraid I'm gonna lose her in the couch cushions, lol.
Wow $84!? I would have got a couple at that price. Still going on?
 
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AtmizrOpin

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Wow $84!? I would have got a couple at that price. Still going on?
Try it. Go to site and look for the $104 vaporshark dna 40. And at checkout page type in memorial20. I hope you can still use that coupon as memorial weekend/day is over. Just know that more than likely you WILL get one with the screen glitch. In fact I'll put money on it. Just know that it in no way affects the performance of the mod. Mine started scrolling all weird hieroglyphics for a few puffs in temp mode. But does go away when screen times out. I'd say out of every 10 presses of the fore button it will glitch 1 maybe 2 times. Oh Ya no atty resistance lock on this version. Good luck!:thumb:
 

Mooch

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    Try it. Go to site and look for the $104 vaporshark dna 40. And at checkout page type in memorial20. I hope you can still use that coupon as memorial weekend/day is over. Just know that more than likely you WILL get one with the screen glitch. In fact I'll put money on it. Just know that it in no way affects the performance of the mod. Mine started scrolling all weird hieroglyphics for a few puffs in temp mode. But does go away when screen times out. I'd say out of every 10 presses of the fore button it will glitch 1 maybe 2 times. Oh Ya no atty resistance lock on this version. Good luck!:thumb:

    Does it ever glitch when not firing, e.g., when changing settings, just sitting, etc.?
     
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    dwcraig1

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    Oh yeah she's American. Vaporshark.com had a fire sale on the older large screen DNA 40(no atty lock). The said in the disclaimer that this is the version that has been known to have the screen glitch. But for $84 with coupon code : memorial20, I couldn't pass it up. She's so tiny I'm afraid I'm gonna lose her in the couch cushions, lol.
    As American as an Hcigar DNA40, Chinese all the way except for the board.
     

    Croak

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    Right behind you...
    As American as an Hcigar DNA40, Chinese all the way except for the board.

    And that's only American assembled. Very few of the surface mount components (if any) on a DNA40 are from US sources.
     

    dwcraig1

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    Can anyone help and point me in the direction for a replacement fire button switch for my Waidea. I went to pull on the chrome plated button piece and the guts of the switch came out with it. I would really like to find one as close to stock as possible with that protruding plunger that snaps into the chrome piece. I swear when it rains it pours when my bad luck kicks in.
    tactile switches
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    http://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/B3F-1052/SW405-ND/44068
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    xtwosm0kesx

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    Does it ever glitch when not firing, e.g., when changing settings, just sitting, etc.?

    In all the threads/reading i've done on the DNA40, its seems to only happen at some point during the firing process, but essentially never happens during adjusting of settings.

    Honestly your theory about what is happening with the display is the only one i've seen that actually makes sense (to an EE layman) and also explains why its such a hard thing for them to completely eliminate (absolute insanity it still exists after this long).

    Here's a weird one for ya, ive got a V1 DNA40 chip from the week they came out and its glitched a total of three times in ~6months and it ONLY happens when i have left it out in the car in 35degree weather for at least an hour...

    Also let me say it's nice to have another member with your seemingly very in-depth knowledge of EE/circuits, welcome aboard!
     
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    Phone Guy

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    I rarely mention my DIY squonker...it's alive and well, using it trouble free on a daily basis.
    Waidea is working on a clone squonker. I contacted them directly, they said about 20 days. Didn't have a price but I'm guessing about the same as the current flask clones?

    I'm definitely getting one! I've been wanting a bottom feeder. And I really like the flask. But one of the things I love about it is the 2 batteries, so not sure if it will last me a whole day with a single cell, but HOPEFULLY I'll get to find out in a month or so.. :D
     

    Mooch

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    In all the threads/reading i've done on the DNA40, its seems to only happen at some point during the firing process, but essentially never happens during adjusting of settings.

    Honestly your theory about what is happening with the display is the only one i've seen that actually makes sense (to an EE layman) and also explains why its such a hard thing for them to completely eliminate (absolute insanity it still exists after this long).

    Here's a weird one for ya, ive got a V1 DNA40 chip from the week they came out and its glitched a total of three times in ~6months and it ONLY happens when i have left it out in the car in 35degree weather for at least an hour...

    Also let me say it's nice to have another member with your seemingly very in-depth knowledge of EE/circuits, welcome aboard!

    Thanks!
    This vaping noob has already learned so much from the cool people who make up the ECF community! I'm hoping I can trade some EE info for it. :)

    And thanks for the glitches-only-when-firing info!
    You're having only cold weather glitching? Some possible causes include...
    - Cell voltage under load drops considerably when it's cold. Cell internal resistance also goes up. These combine to produce a very sharp drop in voltage at the beginning of a discharge before the cell starts to heat up. If the drop is low enough, but not too low, it can cause what is callled a "brownout" condition. It's not a low enough voltage for the microprocessor (MPU) or display to shut down. It's at the edge of what the voltage needs for reliable operation. If the MCU and display (and supporting components) aren't set up to handle this brownout condition just about anything can happen.
    - Component values drifting. At 35F though the components won't drift much compared to room temperatures.
    - Firmware timing issue. If the firmware's timing for the commands and data sent to the display are right on the edge of what the display can deal with then component value shifts in the display might make the display controller intermittently misread or ignore commands or data being sent. Not too likely IMO since drifting is minimal at 35F.
    - Bad or fractured solder joints. As the board and components shrink/shift different amounts as the board is cooled, it places stress on the solder joints. If any of those solder joints are questionable then the effective value of the component can shift. The solder joint can even actually fracture and open up, effectively removing the component from the circuit. This, as you can imagine, can cause all sorts of problems. Especially hard to debug as the problem goes away when the board heats back up to room temperature. And made even worse by the lead-free solder that is used now. Leaded solder is less brittle and better handles temperature swings. It's why it is still used for military and hi-reliability applications.

    My guess...cell voltage dropping too much when firing (this can just be during the first few milliseconds, not seem on a mods volt meter) or bad solder joint(s).
     

    Mooch

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    Oops, forgot that these boards use a regulator for powering the important components. This means that MCU and the display can still get a steady voltage to run with even though the battery voltage is changing. But, on the RAYN board I saw that a 3.0V regulator was used.

    If the battery drops to below a voltage just a bit above 3.0V, the regulator can no longer...well...regulate. It will allow the lower battery voltage to pass through it, along with some extra voltage drop from having to pass through the regulator! This low voltage can then cause glitches in the MCU and/or display. Especially if it drops down and then quickly rises back up again. Electronics hate this!

    You can prevent this voltage drop from affecting the regulator by adding a bigger capacitor to its input. The capacitor acts as sort of a buffer, holding up the voltage for a few milliseconds until the battery voltage rises back up again. This requires more room on the board and increases costs though.

    Something a lot of engineers designing boards like these don't know is that the type of capacitors they're using can easily lose 70-80% of their capacitance if they're used in DC voltage applications...like these boards. If the designer doesn't compensate for this loss then that 3.0V regulator could get wonky with much shorter voltage dropouts than they designed for.

    @xtwosm0kesx, you could try an experiment if you wanted. Dial the power/temp way down, preheating off if that feature is available, and chill your V1 DNA40 to 35F or colder. Then see if it still glitches. The lower current draw from the cells wouldn't drop the cell voltage so much when you fire. The dial up the device power again, chill at least another 2 hours, and confirm that you can glitch it...hopefully. Hmm...might not be worth it though as you weren't seeing the glitch regularly when the device was cold. Umm...nevermind. :confused:
     
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    Mooch

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    No it has not. Only when the fire button is pressed. It seems to only do it in temp mode. Next time it happens I'll try and get a picture of it.

    Thanks!
    Only when pressed and never when the fire button is released?
    Does temp mode use a burst of power for preheat? Only in temp mode?
     
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    AtmizrOpin

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    Thanks!
    Only when pressed and never when the fire button is released?
    Does temp mode use a burst of power for preheat? Only in temp mode?
    So far, only when pressed. When I let go the screen seems to refresh. Yes, in temp mode if the wattage is a little low say: 30 watts at 480 degrees it will jump to 35-39 within the first quarter second to get that coil going. I don't have anything left in my collection with a kanthal build in it except my derringer clone and that's at home so I can't say if it preheats in kanthal. I'm on the road at the moment. I'll let you know later today.
     
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    Thorpapa

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    LOL I ripped the top plate off the black Waidea to see what happened and just like what happened to my silver flask with the DNA 40D board, the atty out wire at the bottom of the 510 pin made contact with the positive battery terminal. I put two layers of electrical tape between it but it wore through.:( And yes, this DNA 40 just started the screen glitch. But it goes away quickly right after soft power down. (I knew this would probably happen Vaporshark even said it could glitch in the terms and conditions. I don't care I love it! This thing is crazy tiny!

    oh man its sad to hear that :( the 2nd VF died. :(
     
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