Let's Talk Hardware

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kkay59

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LOLLLLLLLLL. I had a feeling that was going to come up. For shame for shame. I have to laugh though. Okay, I'm obsessive. I admit it. I could be one of those on the opposite end of the spectrum, but I'm not. When I was young we didn't have much. So when I got something, I took care of it. My brother on the other hand, broke his stuff less than a week after he got it. So I was obsessive about my stuff. I guess it is a carry over from that. He used to love to take clocks apart, like Baby Ben wind up clocks. Only thing is, he could NEVER get them back together. I was always afraid of taking something apart. But when I started fly fishing, and using old classic reels, I had to learn. So you can say that is what brought this on. So at least I can laugh with you. Give me a little credit please. ;)
 

Bronze

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LOLLLLLLLLL. I had a feeling that was going to come up. For shame for shame. I have to laugh though. Okay, I'm obsessive. I admit it. I could be one of those on the opposite end of the spectrum, but I'm not. When I was young we didn't have much. So when I got something, I took care of it. My brother on the other hand, broke his stuff less than a week after he got it. So I was obsessive about my stuff. I guess it is a carry over from that. He used to love to take clocks apart, like Baby Ben wind up clocks. Only thing is, he could NEVER get them back together. I was always afraid of taking something apart. But when I started fly fishing, and using old classic reels, I had to learn. So you can say that is what brought this on. So at least I can laugh with you. Give me a little credit please. ;)
The stuff that is left over after you take something apart and put it back together is what my Dad would call "profits". :)
 

Bunnykiller

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I too was one to take things apart.... when I was younger, the cat knocked a wall clock down and it broke, so I decided to take it apart and fix it. Mom walked in seeing the clock on the table in a zillion pieces... she wasnt happy. Anyway I put the clock back together and got it working... it stayed working for another 22 yrs.... oh BTW, I was 4 y/o when I repaired the clock.
 

kkay59

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BK, that is awesome. My brother always tore his stuff up. Then after that, he started working on mine. I finally decided that he was dangerous with my stuff, so I didn't want him near it. To this day, I don't know if he can put a clock back together or not. If you were a four year old, and you could do THAT, then you are pretty sharp, no doubt about it.
 

jersey_emt

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been reading quite a few posts about .2 and lower ohm coil sets.... so I decided to try one to see what all the hubub is about...

made a dual paralell 28 gauge coming in at .18 ohms.... heats up instantly and is harsh as all ell .... I dont see the enjoyment the others are finding in < .3 ohms.... unless one really likes extra hot vape and harsh taste... but hey some people like Abitas Wrought Iron IPA too.. ( tastes like Pine-Sol)

When you go that low in resistance, wicking becomes even more essential than it normally does. I always build larger diameter coils the lower in resistance I go, because it is able to wick juice much more quickly. The cross-sectional area of a circle increases with the square of its radius, so even going from 2 mm coil to a 2.5 mm coil gives you 56% more cross-sectional area.

Also, 28 gauge wire is just too thin for such a low resistance build -- it simply heats up way too fast for even the best wick to keep up. Thicker wire will heat up more slowly, and have much more surface area touching the wick because of the increased number of wraps needed to reach the same resistance. It will still heat up plenty fast as long as you don't use something ridiculously thick like 20 gauge wire (although of course, some people prefer it that way). I've built < 0.2 ohm coils that were still just relatively "warm" vapes.

I tend to stay in the 0.6 - 0.8 ohm range, because the super low-resistance builds just burn through juice too fast to be worth it (sure, you get crazy clouds of vapor, but not an equivalent increase of flavor). But every so often its a lot of fun.
 

Bronze

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When you go that low in resistance, wicking becomes even more essential than it normally does. I always build larger diameter coils the lower in resistance I go, because it is able to wick juice much more quickly. The cross-sectional area of a circle increases with the square of its radius, so even going from 2 mm coil to a 2.5 mm coil gives you 56% more cross-sectional area.

Also, 28 gauge wire is just too thin for such a low resistance build -- it simply heats up way too fast for even the best wick to keep up. Thicker wire will heat up more slowly, and have much more surface area touching the wick because of the increased number of wraps needed to reach the same resistance. It will still heat up plenty fast as long as you don't use something ridiculously thick like 20 gauge wire (although of course, some people prefer it that way). I've built < 0.2 ohm coils that were still just relatively "warm" vapes.

I tend to stay in the 0.6 - 0.8 ohm range, because the super low-resistance builds just burn through juice too fast to be worth it (sure, you get crazy clouds of vapor, but not an equivalent increase of flavor). But every so often its a lot of fun.
Good information.
 
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jersey_emt

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since all I had was 28 ga......... :)

There's always the option of twisting the wire, which acts more like a solid piece of lower-gauge wire than parallel builds like you tried. Single-twisted (two strands twisted together) of 28 gauge wire is similar to 24 gauge solid wire.
 

Bronze

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what does anyone know about the IPV 4?? I cant find much at all on performance, issues etc.... altho I did find alot of sites with pre order status for it.... guess it really hasnt hit the market yet....:unsure:

any previews by Todd or PB to be considered?
Beats me Killer.
 

rdsok

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went and did it.... got the IPV 4 from a local B&M for 95$ will give more info after I play with it for a while...

Then I'm late with this... ( I don't have one btw )

In another forum, the users are just now getting theirs... so any news/reviews at this point is going to be premature. A couple mentioned their button wasn't clicky and another said theirs was. One mentioned it seemed to be some of the foam they used to keep the buttons from rattling and when they used a flat blade screwdriver to compress it some, it clicked. None reported bad stuff... just the difference on the clicky part.
 

Bunnykiller

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this one is clicky and has a "positive" feel/reaction ... not mushy at all. I do like the rounded edges, smooth in the hand. Not too enthused about the materials used for the body, the main case is stamped aluminum, the "grip" is a molded plastic with a rubberized coating. The silvering on the side/faceplate is a bit too dark to see the display in semi to bright lighting conditions. Havent tried TC yet... ( dont have any Ni wire). Put the Magma on it with a .45 ohm dual 28 ga. ran it at 35W to test.... and wow, PB was intense in it... I have the CLT on it now at .4 ohms at 35W doing Tuscan Cocoa... gonna pump it up to 40 and see if it gets better or dies out due to heat issues...
 

rdsok

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I read about how to do something about the mirrored screen if that is an issue for you...

I first took painters tape and made a border around just the display area on the outside of mirror cover. I then took my atty off, turned it off, and removed batteries. I slightly opened the case enough to remove mirror panel (allen wrench). Holding the mirror strip up to a light source I could see the squared off area i needed to polish off. I then took more tape and squared off the INSIDE area that i would polish. I used my McGuires headlight restore kit products to do the job. I used first 1000 and then 3000 grit paper and their polishing liquid to gently remove just the mirror area over the display screen. After removing all tape and using windex to clean it up i put it back on and tighened up the case.
 

TRS1988

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Thank you everyone for your input. Definitely has given me some food for thought. I will be doing some research and seeing what we can bring in. I will say that Favotank has peaked my interest, I've seen it reviewed a few times now and seems rather promising. I will try my best to keep everyone's opinions in mind
 
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