Esterigon official
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I'm seeing a bit of voltage leak on my Esterigon - between about a quarter to half a volt. I'm measuring between the body and positive post and getting this reading without a button press.
Not being very savvy about how electrickery really works - I'm wondering if anyone's come across a similar issue? Or even better, a cure?....
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Not being very savvy about how electrickery really works - I'm wondering if anyone's come across a similar issue? Or even better, a cure?....
Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
I have no such an issue but maybe you have to disassemble every part and clean it?
Thanks Steliosss and Aal_, I've stripped it down several times - cleaned it up good. I'm talking of the mod only, registering current without a button press. Touching the probes registers 0.0v, same probes body to positive post is registering a quarter volt+.
I'm thinking without button press should also register 0.0v...?
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I'm thinking without button press should also register 0.0v...?
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Are the numbers fluctuating constantly or are you getting a solid reading?
Sometimes digital meters read small voltages when the test leads are touched to anything metal. There are multiple causes for this such as radio energy, static electricity, and galvanic reaction. If you were using an everyday analog meter, I mean one that isn't SUPER sensitive, you won't see the readings your getting with you digital meter. The digital meter is able to be much more sensitive to minute environmental voltages since it doesn't need any energy to physically move a needle. So a common practice when using a digital meter is to only consider values that hold steady, although slight fluctuation is normal. But if your bouncing thru 10th, 100th, 1000th of a volt readings it's likely your getting what some people call ghost voltages which is just your meter picking up stuff around you. Touching your fingers to the ends of the test leads also can make these kinds of readings.
Not saying this is your problem. Just talking about some electrickery.
Sometimes digital meters read small voltages when the test leads are touched to anything metal. There are multiple causes for this such as radio energy, static electricity, and galvanic reaction. If you were using an everyday analog meter, I mean one that isn't SUPER sensitive, you won't see the readings your getting with you digital meter. The digital meter is able to be much more sensitive to minute environmental voltages since it doesn't need any energy to physically move a needle. So a common practice when using a digital meter is to only consider values that hold steady, although slight fluctuation is normal. But if your bouncing thru 10th, 100th, 1000th of a volt readings it's likely your getting what some people call ghost voltages which is just your meter picking up stuff around you. Touching your fingers to the ends of the test leads also can make these kinds of readings.
Not saying this is your problem. Just talking about some electrickery.
The reading is steady. It's never less than 0.26v and can be as high as 0.65v. So different readings at different times - so although the reading will change from time to time, it will be a steady reading. The same test on my JGG produces a zero reading.
Maybe I'll just dump it into a bath again and hope for a better result this time...
Thanks for the responses...
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Maybe I'll just dump it into a bath again and hope for a better result this time...
Thanks for the responses...
Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
My bad I didn't read the part where you don't push the button. Clean your multimeter leads well, or use another one and let us know. Also try doing it without a battery at all.
Imeo, i just received my pre-order parts from the Spain GG Store, some brass parts for my tilemahos 21 and 22mm also new one piece mouth pieces (much prefer the one piece to the drip tip one) also some brass parts for my esterigon. The quality of manufacturing and control of dimensions so parts made months apart still fit perfectly is outstanding RESPECT to your manufacturing facility.
Regrettably the esterigon locking cap (brass) is not flat (looks convex / curved) therefore when the mod is locked and standing upright it wobbles and is not standing safely. I believe this must have happened when polishing the base are they all like this or is it a manufacturing process mistake
Sorry.
Regrettably the esterigon locking cap (brass) is not flat (looks convex / curved) therefore when the mod is locked and standing upright it wobbles and is not standing safely. I believe this must have happened when polishing the base are they all like this or is it a manufacturing process mistake
Sorry.
Some time ago I was wondering why one of my two Esterigons was hitting harder than the other, everything was clean and tight on both, checked the negative insulator, in case it was too tall, not allowing the negative post to make proper contact with the negative battery pole, and of course, I experimented with the same battery and same Tilemahos on both.
It felt like it was not making a proper contact somewhere.
It turns out that in the Esterigon with the "problem" this part (battery moving pin) was little shorter, compared to the same part in the "Hard Hitting" Esterigon:
I ordered a new "Esterigon Battery Moving Pin", while the new pin arrived, I added an extra insulator disc, the problem with adding an additional insulator disc is that it increases a little the button throw.
Problem solved
Oh, I also did this on both of my Esterigons:
So now, when unlocking, I can feel the negative pin is making contact with the negative pole of the battery (you can feel some resistance when unlocking and it is making contact).
It felt like it was not making a proper contact somewhere.
It turns out that in the Esterigon with the "problem" this part (battery moving pin) was little shorter, compared to the same part in the "Hard Hitting" Esterigon:
I ordered a new "Esterigon Battery Moving Pin", while the new pin arrived, I added an extra insulator disc, the problem with adding an additional insulator disc is that it increases a little the button throw.
Problem solved
Oh, I also did this on both of my Esterigons:
So now, when unlocking, I can feel the negative pin is making contact with the negative pole of the battery (you can feel some resistance when unlocking and it is making contact).
Hi Breinatro thanks for the info, any idea what i should do as i have just checked it with a steel rule and it is no where near flat in fact it is clearly rounded and convex
to flatten it you need professionel equipement, i´m sure imeo have a solution
Hello friends, hello Imeo,
I need you help! Ago days, I´m owner of sterigon (18350-18500-18650) =) But I have some questions...
1) I have problems to remove batteries. Some brands (efest, AW-IMR..) are easier than others, but some are much stuck. I have a video for you to see:
¿Can I do something?
2) Where is advisable to put Vaseline or noalox?
3)It is better flat or button batteries?
4)I have read all messages here and I have seen that this piece using lime paper, but I can´t why this?
Thank you! =)
P.D: Esterigon it´s a beautiful mod!! Thank you Imeo!
I need you help! Ago days, I´m owner of sterigon (18350-18500-18650) =) But I have some questions...
1) I have problems to remove batteries. Some brands (efest, AW-IMR..) are easier than others, but some are much stuck. I have a video for you to see:
¿Can I do something?
2) Where is advisable to put Vaseline or noalox?
3)It is better flat or button batteries?
4)I have read all messages here and I have seen that this piece using lime paper, but I can´t why this?
Thank you! =)
P.D: Esterigon it´s a beautiful mod!! Thank you Imeo!
It looks to me like it is getting caught up in the bottom mostly does it stick when you remove from the top? (this is the way Imeo designed to have the batteries removed)
Hi j3sus,
do not remove the battery through the bottom cap, I mean, the Esterigon's bottom cap is designed to be a "fixed" part, that you should only need to remove it, for example, for cleaning purposes or if you need to change an o-ring or so.
Remove the battery by unscrewing the whole top part of your Esterigon.
If you look closely, both ends of the main tube are different, one end is specifically designed to house the bottom cap and its o-ring.
Don't use NoAlox, you can apply some Vaseline to the o-rings of the positive moving pin assembly and maybe on the o-rings of the air control ring.
Both batteries work good, I think that button top batteries could make better / tightest contact.
Do you mean the negative battery insulator? Check my previous post.
Thank you friend!
Hi j3sus,
do not remove the battery through the bottom cap, I mean, the Esterigon's bottom cap is designed to be a "fixed" part, that you should only need to remove it, for example, for cleaning purposes or if you need to change an o-ring or so.
Remove the battery by unscrewing the whole top part of your Esterigon.
If you look closely, both ends of the main tube are different, one end is specifically designed to house the bottom cap and its o-ring.
Don't use NoAlox, you can apply some Vaseline to the o-rings of the positive moving pin assembly and maybe on the o-rings of the air control ring.
Both batteries work good, I think that button top batteries could make better / tightest contact.
Do you mean the negative battery insulator? Check my previous post.
Thank you Ariel.
But I think...
Vaseline isn´t needs apply to connectors like esterigon buttom pin?
I have seen the previous post above but I can´t to understand why...
Excuse me.Thank you!! =)
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