Kayfun v4 drifting resistance?

[chiliphil1]

Hey guys, I am having an issue on my Ehpro v4 clone. I have had issues since day 1 on this thing and I honestly cannot figure out what is going on. The issues have been intermittent but today it's just constant.

Every time I re wick the thing I put it on my istick 30 and the resistance moves, it will jump from .6(what the build is) all the way up to 5 or 6 ohms. The wattage on the device changes because it can't push the 22 that I use through 5 ohms and then I have to keep adjusting it back up where I want it which is frustrating. I press the button and it either doesn't fire but it counts like it is firing or it shows protection on the screen. Once it resets and shows the resistance again it will show about .9 I can fire it a couple of times and then it starts all over again. The resistance will sometimes show at 0 and it won't fire, it says no atomizer. I jiggle to atty a little bit and it will start jumping around again.

I had this issue a couple weeks ago and found the nut that holds the positive block to be a little loose, I tightened it up and all was well, it would occasionally show the "protection" screen but it was more stable and reliable. Now it's doing it bad again and the nut isn't loose. Sometimes loosening the juice flow will make the resistance move more.. I am almost thinking it could be an issue with the spring but I really have no idea. I have only had this thing about a month and it has been about 50/50 I really love it when it works but it spends a lot of time not working too.

Is this an inherent problem in the v4, or did I get a bad one? I was thinking of getting an authentic but if this is what I can expect I won't be doing that..

Any help greatly appreciated.

 

[doofy666]

Most likely is that screw #9 has worked loose. Make sure it is tight.

Parts: http://www.chitown-angler.com/pichosting/albums/userpics/10006/K4.pdf

 

[chiliphil1]

Most likely is that screw #9 has worked loose. Make sure it is tight.

Parts: http://www.chitown-angler.com/pichosting/albums/userpics/10006/K4.pdf

OK, cool I will check that one out. I have NOT tried to tighten it. Hopefully that's the issue, thank you for the help! #14 was the one I found loose before and tightened it down. I will look into #9. I will update once I take it back apart.

 

[chiliphil1]

Most likely is that screw #9 has worked loose. Make sure it is tight.

Parts: http://www.chitown-angler.com/pichosting/albums/userpics/10006/K4.pdf

Update: I just pulled the unit apart and the screw you mentioned was not tight. I tightened it down, but found that if I really tighten it I cannot turn the base to put the deck back on, so I had to loosen it a tad in order to put the deck back on. Once I reassembled the unit and put it back on the mod the resistance is still moving. It is not moving as bad as it was but still varying from 1.1 to 1.6, the build is .6.. Anymore ideas?

 

[doofy666]

If #9 is not tight then resistance will fluctuate. #9 must be tight. You said above:

Is this an inherent problem in the v4, or did I get a bad one? I was thinking of getting an authentic but if this is what I can expect I won't be doing that..

It's an inherent problem with some clones. It's not present in authentics. There's an error in machining between #8 and #3. Probably no more than 0.5mm but it's enough. I don't think there is a definitive answer as to precisely what the problem is, whether it is #3 or #8 that is incorrectly machined.

Anyway. Fixes.

Simplest is to buy a new base: Electronic Cigarette Atomizer Accessories Suitable for Kayfun V4-5.09 and Free Shipping| GearBest.com If you go this route then try replacing #8 first and if that doesn't work, replace the whole base. I've had 2 of these bases and they are flawless. This doesn't mean, of course, that yours will be.

Or you could try a shim in the square indent of #3. Consider 9 or 10 thou thickness. Drill a #9 sized hole in a bit of metal and cut to fit #3. Maybe a coke can will do, I don't know.

Or you could sand down #7, maybe in increments of 0.1mm until everything fits. The cheapest source of a spare #7 is the link above though you might want to consider this one also: Kayfun V4 Parts Kit/ Rebuild Kit - 101 Vape

I've solved this problem in 2 of my clones so far. In the first I replaced #8 with a gearbest one. This didn't work for clone 2 so I dropped in a spare #4 from a parts kit like the one above. Stock #4 is about 1.5mm, mine was about 1.5mm and the one in the spares was about 1.3 mm which was enough to sort everything out.

 

[Marc411]

chiliphil, check out this site for K4 parts.

Kayfun v4 Replacement Parts - EVcigarettes.com

Pick up numbers 4 & 7, these seal rings will give you the correct spacing on the base and allow you to tighten down #9. I would pick up a number 9 for the hell of it. I got my parts from this site for my clones and it tightened them up nicely.

 

[mr.fabe]

In addition to what others have mentioned, you can also increase stretch your spring to increase tension (for connectivity) and make sure you turn the juice flow control all the way open. Check your 510 screw as well.

Good luck!

 

[chiliphil1]

In addition to what others have mentioned, you can also increase stretch your spring to increase tension (for connectivity) and make sure you turn the juice flow control all the way open. Check your 510 screw as well.

Good luck!

I think I am going to try the spring elemination thing I saw on youtube. If it doesn't work I can try to stretch the spring a bit.

Thank you all for the replies. I think I may go with the new base option, for $6 I don't think I can go wrong. If this is not a problem that happens with authentics then I will probably go that route eventually, I have wanted something authentic forever, this is as good of a thing as any for it to be.

 

[chiliphil1]

Ok, so I took it back apart again. I tightened the #9 down as tight as I could while still being able to turn the juice control. #'s 4&7 look ok to me, the spacing seems fine but perhaps the # 7 is a bit too thick, not sure. It seems to seat ok but again I can't tighten it super tight, perhaps I am not supposed to in the first place? The 510 pin is tight, the block that it screws into is set with the insulator down so that it contacts the deck. I did the spring removal on it and so far all is well, it seems to me that the spring could have been contributing to it, it looked bad almost like it was flaking and peeling.. I don't know about it, maybe the plating is supposed to wear off.

So far so good though, the resistance is holding steady and it is firing every time I hit the button which is almost miraculous. I will update after a couple of days, hopefully it keeps working until I can get one of the real ones, if it persists I will look into the replacement parts everyone mentioned. Thank you all again for the help.

 

[doofy666]

#9 should definitely be super tight.

Stock spring is poor quality. I'm pretty sure all auths ship now with an updated gold plated spring. You can buy this spring from auth dealers for 2 or 3 dollars.

 

[cinetrope]

What I've been doing with mine is...after filling with the JC closed, back off the 510 pin ever so slightly, maybe 1/10 of a turn, then open the JC fully and re-tighten the 510 pin snugly. When mounted on my mod, (an SX Mini) the resistance has been stable. This procedure may be voodoo science but it only adds a few seconds to a refill and it has been working every time over several weeks for me.

 

[DaveP]

The KFV4, although a great flavor atomizer, is cursed with too many parts that affect good contact if they aren't secured. Once you have taken it apart a few times you start to learn what those parts are. Don't forget that the air tube (part #14) screws into the bottom of the build deck and is a part of that chain of connection. It also makes contact with the spring. Looks like you have it all tight and conductive for now, though. Most of us have modded the spring to make the top ring smaller so that it pushes on tight to the bottom of the air tube. A loose spring can up the resistance, also.

 

[chiliphil1]

The KFV4, although a great flavor atomizer, is cursed with too many parts that affect good contact if they aren't secured. Once you have taken it apart a few times you start to learn what those parts are. Don't forget that the air tube (part #14) screws into the bottom of the build deck and is a part of that chain of connection. It also makes contact with the spring. Looks like you have it all tight and conductive for now, though. Most of us have modded the spring to make the top ring smaller so that it pushes on tight to the bottom of the air tube. A loose spring can up the resistance, also.

Indeed, I think the spring is really the weak point of the whole design which is why when I saw a way to eliminate it I went for it. I think it should have been designed this way to begin with. The only problem with taking the spring out is you loose the air flow control but when it is at the point of contact it flows about right anyway. You really get an appreciation of the complexity of the device once you have a problem but all in all I think it is miles ahead of the KFL I was using and I don't see having long term issues, now that I understand the mechanics of it all. Definitely going with the authentic when I can, probably with the provari.

 

[doofy666]

Indeed, I think the spring is really the weak point of the whole design which is why when I saw a way to eliminate it I went for it.

What did you do?

 

[chiliphil1]

What did you do?

I did this

Basically you take the air adjustment screw and put it in backwards. I did not stake it in place like in the video, mine can still be removed. It definitely made a difference, it's more stable now and seems to hit better. I think there is some power loss in the spring which this fixes.

 

[doofy666]

I think there is some power loss in the spring which this fixes.

Have you seen the spring update at Steam Tuners?

BTW - the drip tip is now in stock.

 

[chiliphil1]

Have you seen the spring update at Steam Tuners?

BTW - the drip tip is now in stock.

No, I have not seen the spring update, I will look that up.. Thanks for letting me know about the tip I am definitely getting one of those asap. The tip with my old KFL nano tanks (which fit right on the v4) it should be a pretty nice unit, just a bit too tall in stock form.

 

[doofy666]

I've ordered a tip and a Fortune top cap.

My worry about both is to do with potential leaks and difficulty of getting off. But it seemed worth the risk.

And I saved a lot of money by not buying the spring update (I have no connectivity issues), the bell cap and the nano chimney which all went towards my new mech

 

[chiliphil1]

I've ordered a tip and a Fortune top cap.

My worry about both is to do with potential leaks and difficulty of getting off. But it seemed worth the risk.

And I saved a lot of money by not buying the spring update (I have no connectivity issues), the bell cap and the nano chimney which all went towards my new mech

Nothing wrong with getting new gear! I was thinking about one of the bell caps, I think it with the drip tip would be a pretty nice set up. I'm still getting used to how much taller the 4 is than the 3, that deck is just massive.

 

[mr.fabe]

Nothing wrong with getting new gear! I was thinking about one of the bell caps, I think it with the drip tip would be a pretty nice set up. I'm still getting used to how much taller the 4 is than the 3, that deck is just massive.

You'll love the bell cap. The sides will be flush and it looks pretty clean IMHO. With the bell cap, make sure you receive the silicon plug that should come together when purchasing the cap.