So frustrated with nickel and builds, about ready to go back to kanthal

[Vooper]

Machine screws are a waste of time.

Wrap a contact coil, pull the wraps apart, push them back together again, let go.

You now have a perfectly spaced coil.

 

[dr g]

Machine screws are a waste of time.

Wrap a contact coil, pull the wraps apart, push them back together again, let go.

You now have a perfectly spaced coil.

one advantage of screws or any other kind of mandrel is you can install the coils and remove the mandrels later.

 

[Vooper]

You can leave whatever you're wrapping the coils on in the coil either way.

 

[vaperXant]

Bolts unscrew easily for me if there new

 

[OMRebel67]

Machine screws are a waste of time.

Wrap a contact coil, pull the wraps apart, push them back together again, let go.

You now have a perfectly spaced coil.

That's exactly how I do it and I have no problems. I use a 6 and 1 coil master jig, and it's perfect for that. I find making a nickel coil as easy as making a kanthal coil.

 

[tehmidcap]

Again, I think it's easier. it wraps nice and easy you throw it on and you're done... no fussing around with hot spots, easier to bend and manipulate the coil or legs once it's installed.

I usually do it the opposite way though. I wrap a spaced coil then gently push it down against the bottom of the screwdriver/whatever to get the wraps a tad closer together (when I don't use the coiling gizmo).

 

[edyle]

I have been using my hanamodz v4d for awhile. Its been a champ with my magma and kanger subtank. But that was also with kanthal.
So after doing some reading and watching some videos, I ordered my ni200non-tempered from lightning vapes (28 and 30ga) and decided to give it a go.

Its going on 3 months now, and I cannot get a good TC build no matter what I do
The best I had was a single spaced coil, reading at .17 @14.5w with temp 440 in my Kanger rba. Lasted about 5 days. Flavor was alright, not stellar, but it spit a lot. So maybe the flavor I was getting was more from the spit.

I am at wits end. I went back, re-read as much as I could, watched as much as I could. I am either getting a) too much spitting, b) not enough vapor, c)not enough flavor, or d) hitting temp control within 3 seconds at <13watts

Contact coils, spaced coils, twisted coils, dryburn, no dryburn, cleaned, .11 ohm-.26ohm.

I have tried on my igo-w, mutX v2, magma, kanger sub.
Many different juices.

The only thing I havnt tried, is different brand of wire (I always just bought lightning vapes)
Is it possible I just have a bad batch of wire? Or is it a case of PEBCAK (or Problem Exists Between Chair And Mod in this case)?

Nickel is not resistance wire

If you want to run nickel wire coils it means you need to have a setup where everything else is squeaky clean as in the way people used to use copper mods and shine the threads up routinely

A brand new tc mod will probably work fine for the first few weeks, or months but the slightest corrosion at pressure contact electrical points is going to throw the numbers off

 

[vaperXant]

Nickel is not resistance wire

If you want to run nickel wire coils it means you need to have a setup where everything else is squeaky clean as in the way people used to use copper mods and shine the threads up routinely

A brand new tc mod will probably work fine for the first few weeks, or months but the slightest corrosion at pressure contact electrical points is going to throw the numbers off

accually, it is resistance wire, its just very low resistance. Its called "NON" Resistance wire, it isn't called "NOT" Resistance or Not Resistant. There is no such thing as not resistance wire, its basic electrical knowledge. All metal wires will carry some sort of resistance, so im not sure exactly what u are trying to say. There is also no reason the components should fail any faster then a regular wattage mod. Nickel wire does tend to gunk up around the same rate as kanthal, the issue is you cannot dry try nickel wire and burn it off, so u will likely have to replace.

I also have no idea why people are so against machine bolts. It's so incredibly easy its a joke. It guides the wire in perfect 1 mm spacing, and u screw it off to have a perfect coil at the ID that u want. There are bolts with course threading that may not work the same, never tried. There is also fine threadings, and a whole measurement system to threads. You may have to try a few types to get it right, but it's always worked for me right away. Using a mandrel or kuro koiler is not easier at all, and it's critical to have even spacing. Wrapping it then compressing and stretching does not make even spacing, and often leaves wraps touching, which causes hot spots in nickel. If any coils tough, it will cause a hot spot and mess up temp. Using a screw insures that every wrap is exactly the same, with a tiny space in between consistently.

 

[edyle]

accually, it is resistance wire, its just very low resistance. Its called "NON" Resistance wire, it isn't called "NOT" Resistance or Not Resistant. There is no such thing as not resistance wire, its basic electrical knowledge. All metal wires will carry some sort of resistance, so im not sure exactly what u are trying to say. There is also no reason the components should fail any faster then a regular wattage mod. Nickel wire does tend to gunk up around the same rate as kanthal, the issue is you cannot dry try nickel wire and burn it off, so u will likely have to replace.

I also have no idea why people are so against machine bolts. It's so incredibly easy its a joke. It guides the wire in perfect 1 mm spacing, and u screw it off to have a perfect coil at the ID that u want. There are bolts with course threading that may not work the same, never tried. There is also fine threadings, and a whole measurement system to threads. You may have to try a few types to get it right, but it's always worked for me right away. Using a mandrel or kuro koiler is not easier at all, and it's critical to have even spacing. Wrapping it then compressing and stretching does not make even spacing, and often leaves wraps touching, which causes hot spots in nickel. If any coils tough, it will cause a hot spot and mess up temp. Using a screw insures that every wrap is exactly the same, with a tiny space in between consistently.

1: 1st paragraph:
What I was trying to help with, nickel wire coils might be 0.1 ohm amount of ohms.
Contact resistance from corrosion might be variable 0.1 ohm in that region.
Therefore new users end up finding that situation unworkable because after a few day, or weeks, performance becomes widely variable, and unless they know its a problem of 0.1 extra ohms, they get frustrated and just buy another pack of cigarettes.

2: 2nd paragraph:
I think that's a response to something else you did not quote.

 

[vaperXant]

1: 1st paragraph:
What I was trying to help with, nickel wire coils might be 0.1 ohm amount of ohms.
Contact resistance from corrosion might be variable 0.1 ohm in that region.
Therefore new users end up finding that situation unworkable because after a few day, or weeks, performance becomes widely variable, and unless they know its a problem of 0.1 extra ohms, they get frustrated and just buy another pack of cigarettes.

2: 2nd paragraph:
I think that's a response to something else you did not quote.

I use my .85 and .1 coils for up to 4 weeks depending on juice. Then just replace. I was just correcting what you posted, as it's dangerously incorrect. It could be misinterpreted as nickel not having a resistance, therefore it doesn't matter how it's build resistance wise. Thats not true. TC relies exclusively on resistance readings and from what I can tell, the lower resistance, the more accurate readings. NO Resistance wire does not exist, Only NON RESISTANCE, meaning very low resistance carried. Implying its not resistance could have dangerous results for a newcomer, who searches for info on building nickel coil. Therefor, it really should be changed and corrected to NON.

Now, about your comment that gunk and corrosion can add an additional decimal to the resistance. Most TC mods have resistance locks, and as you use the coil it should be adjusted at room temp every day if possible, as the slightest movements can cause changes. That will solve that issue. After the wire becomes two coated, after about 2-3 weeks, you will notice less vapor and flavor and know to change it. Resistance locking will solve that issue though until you are not happy with your vape.

 

[Vooper]

accually, it is resistance wire, its just very low resistance. Its called "NON" Resistance wire, it isn't called "NOT" Resistance or Not Resistant. There is no such thing as not resistance wire, its basic electrical knowledge. All metal wires will carry some sort of resistance, so im not sure exactly what u are trying to say. There is also no reason the components should fail any faster then a regular wattage mod. Nickel wire does tend to gunk up around the same rate as kanthal, the issue is you cannot dry try nickel wire and burn it off, so u will likely have to replace.

I also have no idea why people are so against machine bolts. It's so incredibly easy its a joke. It guides the wire in perfect 1 mm spacing, and u screw it off to have a perfect coil at the ID that u want. There are bolts with course threading that may not work the same, never tried. There is also fine threadings, and a whole measurement system to threads. You may have to try a few types to get it right, but it's always worked for me right away. Using a mandrel or kuro koiler is not easier at all, and it's critical to have even spacing. Wrapping it then compressing and stretching does not make even spacing, and often leaves wraps touching, which causes hot spots in nickel. If any coils tough, it will cause a hot spot and mess up temp. Using a screw insures that every wrap is exactly the same, with a tiny space in between consistently.

Stretch then compress, perfect spacing every time.

In the time you're farting about wrapping and extracting machine screws from coils I'm up and vaping.

 

[edyle]

I use my .85 and .1 coils for up to 4 weeks depending on juice. Then just replace. I was just correcting what you posted, as it's dangerously incorrect. It could be misinterpreted as nickel not having a resistance, therefore it doesn't matter how it's build resistance wise. Thats not true. TC relies exclusively on resistance readings and from what I can tell, the lower resistance, the more accurate readings. NO Resistance wire does not exist, Only NON RESISTANCE, meaning very low resistance carried. Implying its not resistance could have dangerous results for a newcomer, who searches for info on building nickel coil. Therefor, it really should be changed and corrected to NON.

Now, about your comment that gunk and corrosion can add an additional decimal to the resistance. Most TC mods have resistance locks, and as you use the coil it should be adjusted at room temp every day if possible, as the slightest movements can cause changes. That will solve that issue. After the wire becomes two coated, after about 2-3 weeks, you will notice less vapor and flavor and know to change it. Resistance locking will solve that issue though until you are not happy with your vape.

"dangerously"
is exactly why I posted what I posted.

Nickel wire is not a resistance wire.
All wire has some resistance.
Nickel wire has some resistance.
Copper wire has some resistance.
Nickel wire has some resistance.
Copper wire is not resistance wire.
Nickel wire is not resistance wire.
Kantal is resistance wire.
Nichrome is resistance wire.

The topic of the thread is "frustrated with Nickel builds"
My comment is about the nickel, not the build.

When people start wrapping nickel coils, the big problem they will first meet, is nickel is low resistance.
Nickel is closer to copper in resistance than it is to resistance wire like kanthal or nichrome.

 

[vaperXant]

"dangerously"
is exactly why I posted what I posted.

Nickel wire is not a resistance wire.
All wire has some resistance.
Nickel wire has some resistance.
Copper wire has some resistance.
Nickel wire has some resistance.
Copper wire is not resistance wire.
Nickel wire is not resistance wire.
Kantal is resistance wire.
Nichrome is resistance wire.

The topic of the thread is "frustrated with Nickel builds"
My comment is about the nickel, not the build.

When people start wrapping nickel coils, the big problem they will first meet, is nickel is low resistance.
Nickel is closer to copper in resistance than it is to resistance wire like kanthal or nichrome.

You are misinformed my friend. NOT RESISTANCE WIRE DOES NOT EXIST. NON RESISTANCE is the only type of wire. google not resistance wire, or better yet, click here. As you can see, there are many threads talking about how not resistance does not exist and its misleading. Now google NON RESISTANCE. There is a hige difference between saying NOT and NON. NOT implies that it does not carry resistance at all, non implies its lower

 

[edyle]

You are misinformed my friend. NOT RESISTANCE WIRE DOES NOT EXIST. NON RESISTANCE is the only type of wire. google not resistance wire, or better yet, click here. As you can see, there are many threads talking about how not resistance does not exist and its misleading. Now google NON RESISTANCE.

Nickel is not a resistance wire.
Perhaps you are reading that as:
"Nickel is a not resistance wire"

 

[vaperXant]

"dangerously"
All wire has some resistance.
Nickel wire has some resistance.
Copper wire has some resistance.
Nickel wire has some resistance.
Copper wire is not resistance wire.
Nickel wire is not resistance wire.
Kantal is resistance wire.
Nichrome is resistance wire.

I'm reading it the way u posted it, now in two separate posts

"Nickel wire is not resistance wire."

No matter how you post it or what you argue, it should say "Nickel wire is a NON RESISTANCE wire" or Nickel is a extremely low ohm wire

Here is your first post

Nickel is not resistance wire

 

[edyle]

I'm reading it the way u posted it, now in two separate posts

"Nickel wire is not resistance wire."

No matter how you post it or what you argue, it should say "Nickel wire is a NON RESISTANCE wire"

Here is your first post

ah; there we go.

You read my post as saying that
"nickel is a non resistance wire"
What I said was
"Nickel is not a resistance wire."

The resistance of nickel is maybe 5 times that of copper.
The resistance of nichrome is like a hundred times that of copper.

That's what I am saying about "Nickel is not a resistance wire"

As you correctly mention, there is no such thing as a "not resistance" wire.

What I am trying to suggest to the OP, is the first problem people get when using nickel: it is not a resistance wire; you have to keep everything clean and resistance free.

A small bit of rust on my telescopic astro mod won't make a hair of a difference on my 2 ohm coil, but when somebody want's to run a 0.1 ohm coil they want a squeaky clean copper mod.

 

[vaperXant]

ah; there we go.

You read my post as saying that
"nickel is a non resistance wire"
What I said was
"Nickel is not a resistance wire."

The resistance of nickel is maybe 5 times that of copper.
The resistance of nichrome is like a hundred times that of copper.

That's what I am saying about "Nickel is not a resistance wire"

As you correctly mention, there is no such thing as a "not resistance" wire.

What I am trying to suggest to the OP, is the first problem people get when using nickel: it is not a resistance wire; you have to keep everything clean and resistance free.

A small bit of rust on my telescopic astro mod won't make a hair of a difference on my 2 ohm coil, but when somebody want's to run a 0.1 ohm coil they want a squeaky clean copper mod.

If you really wanna get technical, There is no such thing as NON resistance wire either. Its a marketing ploy. But there is absolutely no such thing as NO resistance wire. All wire has resistance. To show the difference, Here is the Ohm's carried per foot with different wire types.

• 30g Kanthal = 8.36Ω per foot
• 30g Titanium = 5.9Ω per foot
• 30g NI200 = 0.6Ω per foot

Here is an entire thread related to this for you to read up on and hopefully correct your posts.
DNA40 and NI200 Wire | E-Cigarette Forum

Even after my coil is completely covered, it usually doesn't even make a difference, The first issue people have in my own opinion is incorrect spacing and touching coils due to the malleability of nickel. This causes a hotspot instantly.

 

[Pocha]

Machine screws are a waste of time.

Wrap a contact coil, pull the wraps apart, push them back together again, let go.

You now have a perfectly spaced coil.

This is what I do. I use tempered wire so it involves a little more tweaking but overall this is the best method for me.

 

[WickedWicks]

Machine screws are a waste of time.

Wrap a contact coil, pull the wraps apart, push them back together again, let go.

Pulling and pushing is a waste of time. Just coil with 2 strands and unwind.