Building a "hana" style mod with the fasttech enclosure: looking for tips, tricks, and suggestions
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It's the small screen version. No connector and the solder doesn't seem damaged. It's either the oled itself or the ribbon cable. Going to see how much a screen costs but not too excited about fiddling with my matchbox again :/
Regards
Tony
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I wish I could help you out Tony I have changed a few screens given some of the mods I mod are really tight on space.
It's not a hard job you could probably get a mobile phone shop to hot air rework the screen if you get a replacement takes like a few mins to remove and replace.
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Thanks for the input. I feel confident I can do the job fairly easily (maybe I'm wrong lol) since I have repaired successfully more than one onboard micro USB on phones using various techniques including hot air and even traditional 'scrub' soldering with a low Watt iron.
My only gripe is ripping everything out again and work on my mod again. I kinda felt like it was a successful finished project and now I'll have to return to it lol.
Anyway, I'll probably have to do it because the screen is becoming worse and parts are already dimming out. If this continues, the screen will die completely in less than two or three weeks:
Oh well, don't really have a choice, do I?
Regards
Tony
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Looks usable to me...especially vs the repair. If it were me I would start building up another with that falling in line as a working, albeit damaged, spare.
Yeah but those 72mm enclosures are impossible to get right now.
In the meanwhile the mod tipped over and the screen is dead and cracked now. Tried to replace the screen with a screen from a clone board but wast succesfull. The clone screen ribbon cable delaminated upon disoldering.
Already ordered a new screen, should be here in a couple of weeks. Hope it works out better.
Cheers
Tony
In the meanwhile the mod tipped over and the screen is dead and cracked now. Tried to replace the screen with a screen from a clone board but wast succesfull. The clone screen ribbon cable delaminated upon disoldering.
Already ordered a new screen, should be here in a couple of weeks. Hope it works out better.
Cheers
Tony
Hey guys I just got our first tp dna and picked up some 30g wire. It has worked ok in a kafun which she uses. I will have a dna40 board coming for me to put in a old hana enclosure. Ill be dripping and subtanking with it, what wire should I get. I am interested in twisting as I twist kanthal so what you think.
Check out this thread, lots of info and helpful people. Triple twisting 32 awg nickel works for single coil but it's on the edge of too low resistance for dual coils.
TC beyond Ni200: Nickel Purity, Dicodes; Ti, SS, Resistherm NiFe30; Coefficient of Resistance | E-Cigarette Forum
TC beyond Ni200: Nickel Purity, Dicodes; Ti, SS, Resistherm NiFe30; Coefficient of Resistance | E-Cigarette Forum
Those are the small ones that came with two lipos? I have one that was DOA. I gutted it and threaded it for a FD 510 then abandoned it. Yours for postage.
I twisted some 30g and it's not much better than single 28g, IMO. I can throw in some 28g NI200 if you want to try it out.
FC still sells the mini clones for $45(?). Very generous offer BRD
Done deal
Pm sent
Regards
Tony
Sent from my keyboard through my phone or something like that.
FC still sells the mini clones for $45(?). Very generous offer BRD
They do? I couldn't find them?
Regards
Tony
Sent from my keyboard through my phone or something like that.
I twisted some 30g and it's not much better than single 28g, IMO. I can throw in some 28g NI200 if you want to try it out.
FC still sells the mini clones for $45(?). Very generous offer BRD
Yah if you can that would be cool, ill be talking to you tomorrow we are still good im getting a little excited
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Well, it took 9 months as my daily driver but i finally had to do some maintenance/repair work to my cana box build.
One of the C&K tacts (fire button obv) started getting wonky and would not always fire the mod.
The fix took 10 minutes and ~$1.50 in parts, so can't really complain, though the buttons are rated for 300k actuations (i believe) and i likely was only around 60k.
Was it an original switch or from the case kit? I had one of the fasttech kit's c&k switches fail and replaced it and I also had one of a set of 10 of the original switches be wonky right off the bat.
Fasttech and most (all?) clones don't use C&K switches. There is a very noticeable difference between the cheap clone switches and authentic switches. I installed authentic C&K switches in all the hana clone boxes I've built.
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