Confused about VV Battery and Tank

[fstanek]

I'm considering getting the Halo Variable Voltage Battery. Reading through the item description, it says that:

We recommend using the Triton Tanks with 3.0 - 3.2 ohm coils for the fullest range of flavor.

So I looked at the coils that come with the starter kit, and they're rated at 2.2 - 2.4 ohms.

Ok... so I guess I need to buy a different tank if I'm getting the VV battery. So I went to their coils section, and the following are available:

• 1.8 - 2.0
• 2.2 - 2.4
• 2.6 - 2.8

Am I misunderstanding something? It seems that Halo is recommending to use a coil that's not available if I want to use their VV battery.

 

[Rockin Randle]

Let me double check with our product team, but they are probably just out of stock.

 

[Rockin Randle]

I will confirm when they are back in stock

 

[fstanek]

Ok, that would make sense. I didn't realize that your OOS merchandise didn't show up in the drop-down lists.

 

[wheezal]

that happened a few months back with the standard 2.2-2.4 coils. forced me to suck off a durty coil until they came in stock. it was like eating mayonaisse....only less evil.

 

[DaveOno]

Hi, @fstanek
I disagree with the Halo recommendation. I have been vaping with the standard coils in my Variable Volt Triton batteries for over 18 months. And I get plenty of range of flavor.

The VarVolt will give 3.3 to 4.8 volts. Using our friend, Ohm's law, the lowest resistance coil will give the widest range of power, while the high 3.0 resistance coil would give the narrower range of power.

1.8 coil > 6.1 to 12.8 watts
2.2 coil > 5.0 to 10.5 watts (standard coil)
2.6 coil > 4.2 to 8.9 watts
3.0 coil > 3.6 to 7.7 watts

Maybe Halo meant that you would have better fine tuning of the power in the more useful power range. I seem to like 7 to 8 watts. With standard coils, I adjust from 3.8 to 4.2 volts. I never go outside of this.

The knob on the VarVolt rotates 3/4 of a turn from low to high. I only use 1/4 turn for my "sweet spot."

Just get the VarVolt and use the standard coils. Start fresh coils at low power, and after a few hits, slowly turn it a bit higher till you get to your desired "sweet spot".

 

[wheezal]

I only use 1/4 turn for my "sweet spot."

seriusly?!? none of you ladies gunna chime in with a "Go on...."

i mean it's weird if another dude does it....

 

[430Cruz]

seriusly?!? none of you ladies gunna chime in with a "Go on...."

i mean it's weird if another dude does it....

He hath found the Holy Grail and hath shared with all, it taketh but a quarter turn of the knob.......

 

[DaveOno]

Sometimes it hath taketh a lot less than that, ya knowwhaddi mean?

 

[sadock]

Hi, @fstanek
I disagree with the Halo recommendation. I have been vaping with the standard coils in my Variable Volt Triton batteries for over 18 months. And I get plenty of range of flavor.

The VarVolt will give 3.3 to 4.8 volts. Using our friend, Ohm's law, the lowest resistance coil will give the widest range of power, while the high 3.0 resistance coil would give the narrower range of power.

1.8 coil > 6.1 to 12.8 watts
2.2 coil > 5.0 to 10.5 watts (standard coil)
2.6 coil > 4.2 to 8.9 watts
3.0 coil > 3.6 to 7.7 watts

Maybe Halo meant that you would have better fine tuning of the power in the more useful power range. I seem to like 7 to 8 watts. With standard coils, I adjust from 3.8 to 4.2 volts. I never go outside of this.

The knob on the VarVolt rotates 3/4 of a turn from low to high. I only use 1/4 turn for my "sweet spot."

Just get the VarVolt and use the standard coils. Start fresh coils at low power, and after a few hits, slowly turn it a bit higher till you get to your desired "sweet spot".

Huh. I've been incredibly dissatisfied with my VV battery ever since I bought it. I eventually just gave up and have been using it as a constant voltage battery because it got so aggravating. I agree the 3.0-3.2 coils are NOT the way to go. Personally, I recommend either the 2.2-2.4 or 2.6-2.8, depending on what e-liquid(s) you're vaping. The higher resistance coils seem to last longer with the "gunkier" liquids. Perhaps I'll give my VV battery another try with a lower resistance coil. I took it on faith that Halo knew their product best. Silly me.

PS I'm actually trying to find a thread about how coil choice & tank cleaning affect how often you have to switch out your coils. The longer I own my tanks the more frequently I've had to replace the coils. If anyone knows of an applicable thread, could you point me in the right direction?

 

[AngiBe]

I prefer the 2.2-2.4 coils

And go on Dave re: your sweet spot

 

[sadock]

I prefer the 2.2-2.4 coils

I concur for the most part. I've had some limited success recently with the 2.6-2.8s with the darker e-liquids, but I suspect the real problem was gunky residue buildup in the bottom of the tanks. That residue then got drawn up into the coil and impeded the draw of clean liquid. I had to replace a coil yesterday within twelve hours, so I took it apart and investigated. There was a black chunk right at the joint where wick entered coil. I know Halo says not to clean our tanks because it could damage them, but c'mon.....

That's frakkin' ridiculous when a coil can't even last 24 hours. I decided I'd go with Halo's recommendation if we simply must clean our tanks: swipe them out with a Q-tip. Seems to have removed 95% of the gunk, so I'm optimistic coil life will increase. Vape flavor certainly has.

 

[AngiBe]

I've always cleaned my tanks and coils in good old fashion warm towards hot water. Let them soak for like 45 mins, rinsed in cold water and aired dried on a paper towel over night. Never had issues and coils lasted a pretty long time. Once they stared turn color, burnt spots or unraveled too much, I tossed the coils.

I still have some tanks that are almost 2 years old without issues.

 

[DaveOno]

I agree with @AngiBe and 100% disagree with this q-tip thing. A good way to ruin a tank is to jam a q-tip in to it. The chimney is pressed into the base. If it gets loose, or worse, if it becomes off center, the tank will not seal.

Rinse it in water. Soak it if you want. I soak in distilled water. Before I use the tank, I tap it to make sure any water is out of the chimney. I'll blow through it. I don't need water to short the tank. And I have 7 tanks I've been using for 20 months. Soaking and rinsing in water. No cracks, no leaks.

I'm not going to waste time to look at where this "cleaning technique" originated from. It is flat wrong. Here we have many long time Halons soaking and rinsing in water, with months of service on their tanks. 'nuff said.

 

[sadock]

I'm not going to waste time to look at where this "cleaning technique" originated from. It is flat wrong. Here we have many long time Halons soaking and rinsing in water, with months of service on their tanks. 'nuff said.

Multiple Halons have reported Halo customer service telling them this as the only acceptable way to clean their tanks if they must. Anyone who had problems with leaky tanks and admitted washing them in water was told they needed to buy a new tank because they must have broke them. No, it doesn't make sense. I've never understood why there are no cleaning instructions in the starter kit manual.

Personally, I think Halo wants us *not* to clean them so our coils go bad/get gunked up quicker. With the water rinsing/soaking method, does the gunky buildup come out on its own? I didn't think VG would be water soluble. I have no idea about PG's water solubility.