No. The above should read: "Separate from that is when OEM's collude to set prices, such as if one or more OEM's agree to fix minimum authorized prices so as to remove or restrict price competition (and a possible downward profit margin spiral)".
SXmini M Class (TEMP CONTROL)
- Thread starter whitewidows
- Start date
- th_trl_thread_readers 0
- Status
No. The above should read: "Separate from that is when OEM's collude to set prices, such as if one or more OEM's agree to fix minimum authorized prices so as to remove or restrict price competition (and a possible downward profit margin spiral)".
Houston,,,, We/I have a Problem (it appears).
The SX Vape began being Lethargic yesterday. I have been hitting this thing a lot. Watching the coils and the Wick closely on each refill of the rda. All that Safety Conscious SOP. Tweaked around with a pleathera of Settings Combos. Altered the Temp, the Joules, the Power Curve Pre-Sets, all of them individually and collectively. Still, Weak Vape and Flavor.
So, as a Comparison, I changed to the Ni200 Setting, recalibrated the RDA Coil resistance (came in right at .22 as before on the Ti Setting), set to 20 J and 270* F (standard 100* & 10 J less using Ti on Ni200 Setting SOP as should be) and Ta-Da! The Vape & Flavor are back where they were the first day or so (probably 100-150 firings) initially on the new Ti Test Firmware Settings.
Any Ideas or Thoughts? Appears pretty sure there are no Issues with RDA or Coil or Wick yet definite Performance Issues on Ti that are not present on the Ni200 Setting with same Equip attached and Build.
Until resolved or the Final Firmware comes out and functions correctly, I'll be staying on the current Parameters on the Ni200 Setting.
Strange and disappointing.
P.s. I noticed that the Temps were quite Jumpy (set at 25 J and 385* F on the Ti) and varying from 370-412 when firing. It was much more stable initially.
The SX Vape began being Lethargic yesterday. I have been hitting this thing a lot. Watching the coils and the Wick closely on each refill of the rda. All that Safety Conscious SOP. Tweaked around with a pleathera of Settings Combos. Altered the Temp, the Joules, the Power Curve Pre-Sets, all of them individually and collectively. Still, Weak Vape and Flavor.
So, as a Comparison, I changed to the Ni200 Setting, recalibrated the RDA Coil resistance (came in right at .22 as before on the Ti Setting), set to 20 J and 270* F (standard 100* & 10 J less using Ti on Ni200 Setting SOP as should be) and Ta-Da! The Vape & Flavor are back where they were the first day or so (probably 100-150 firings) initially on the new Ti Test Firmware Settings.
Any Ideas or Thoughts? Appears pretty sure there are no Issues with RDA or Coil or Wick yet definite Performance Issues on Ti that are not present on the Ni200 Setting with same Equip attached and Build.
Until resolved or the Final Firmware comes out and functions correctly, I'll be staying on the current Parameters on the Ni200 Setting.
Strange and disappointing.
P.s. I noticed that the Temps were quite Jumpy (set at 25 J and 385* F on the Ti) and varying from 370-412 when firing. It was much more stable initially.
While I don't KNOW, I would think that Yihi would build in some kind of average atomizer resistance into their algorithms to determine temperature. If this is the case, then the percentage of error would be how much your atty deviates from the average, not the total resistance of the atty. It would still make it more accurate if you could select the actual resistance, assuming you have an accurate way to test it.
Hey Hitcat. Just out of curiosity what brand of wire are you using and what kind of a setup do you have. Not that it has anything to do with it. I'm just curious. I am trying to decide on a wire to buy and was also wondering where you got your wire. It's hard to figure who has the best quality and if it makes a difference. Are you running dual coils? I have to go back and see if anyone else is having problems with the new firmware or not. I haven't installed it since I don't have any Ti and won't have for at least a week or so. That's after I make up my mind on a vendor. It sure would be nice if YiHi could tell us what the optimal resistance is.
Last edited:
Another question I had is when using the Ti firmware you still lock in the resistance just like with the nickel, correct. It doesn't automatically check the resistance like with a kanthal coil does it?
Got this 28 GA from Unkammen (40' for $12.95 shipped) and have some 26 (coming from them as well.
Dual Coil, 28 GA, 6 Wrap on a 2.38 (3/32") Bit. Came in at 0.22 ohm.
All on a Compvape El Cabron RDA.
The Lemo 2 RTA comes in tomorrow and as soon as the 26 GA Ti comes in, I will build a single 6/5 Wrap (should come in at @ 0.22 ohm) on it and retest the Ti Firmware.
I did check all the usual Suspects like Post Screw and etc. and all those were AOK.
Weird and perplexing.
Dual Coil, 28 GA, 6 Wrap on a 2.38 (3/32") Bit. Came in at 0.22 ohm.
All on a Compvape El Cabron RDA.
The Lemo 2 RTA comes in tomorrow and as soon as the 26 GA Ti comes in, I will build a single 6/5 Wrap (should come in at @ 0.22 ohm) on it and retest the Ti Firmware.
I did check all the usual Suspects like Post Screw and etc. and all those were AOK.
Weird and perplexing.
Sorry, but you're just giving another example of illegal price-fixing. If dealers convince the OEM to change it's pricing policy to harm another dealer, then it is no longer a unilateral pricing policy. There's more than one way to conspire to fix prices.
MSRP is not price fixing. Its standard retail strategy to ensure resellers have a margin to sell a product at. A business cannot be sustained by selling products at cost. It isn't anyone's god-given right to have manufacturer pricing for one retail purchased unit.
Sorry, but you're just giving another example of illegal price-fixing. If dealers convince the OEM to change it's pricing policy to harm another dealer, then it is no longer a unilateral pricing policy. There's more than one way to conspire to fix prices.
Actually, I was giving an example of illegal activity that you might read about to replace the example that I personally have never read about. The EU regularly uses direct to consumer while the USA regularly uses distributers.
Your example of dealers banding their (orders) and sales volume together to get better pricing from the OEM to "hurt another dealer" just never pops up on the financial page.
Did the Ti update
It still stored my locked in coil from before update
Set to Ti mode and varied TP till I found a comparable vape to my pre upgrade setting of 260f
Found I have to run at 480f now
Was 390f with Ni200
Think their resistance to temperature algorithm needs some tweaking
As have said before anyone wanting to use titanium without the upgrade start at 260f & max 280f .... then enjoy
On a side note @2legsshrt I built a 0.9ohm Ti in the week as a test for you and it worked fine
11 wraps of 29awg Gr1 Ti on a 3mm bit
Think the ohm limit is just a suggestion as it clearly works at 3x their stated 0.30ohm limit
Also their recommended 0.065 for Ni200 never worked for me either, most of my builds way back then were over 0.1 & worked fine
Build what you like, make sure your resistance locks in and matches steam engine calcs, sometimes can take an hour for device and atty to equalise temp
Keep trying to lock in atty seems to cause heat to either the board or coil or both so patience is your friend and a spare mod is a must
It still stored my locked in coil from before update
Set to Ti mode and varied TP till I found a comparable vape to my pre upgrade setting of 260f
Found I have to run at 480f now
Was 390f with Ni200
Think their resistance to temperature algorithm needs some tweaking
As have said before anyone wanting to use titanium without the upgrade start at 260f & max 280f .... then enjoy
On a side note @2legsshrt I built a 0.9ohm Ti in the week as a test for you and it worked fine
11 wraps of 29awg Gr1 Ti on a 3mm bit
Think the ohm limit is just a suggestion as it clearly works at 3x their stated 0.30ohm limit
Also their recommended 0.065 for Ni200 never worked for me either, most of my builds way back then were over 0.1 & worked fine
Build what you like, make sure your resistance locks in and matches steam engine calcs, sometimes can take an hour for device and atty to equalise temp
Keep trying to lock in atty seems to cause heat to either the board or coil or both so patience is your friend and a spare mod is a must
The menu design is really, really dumb, and this update made it even worse.
For starters, lets move Farenheit and Celcius OUT of the main section of the menu and toward the back of the menu, I shouldnt have to constantly scroll past it when I want to change my wattage / temp settings.
Second, we dont need a temp / power mode setting if we have a coil type setting. Simply add a third option to the coil type, call it 'Other - non TC' and remove the power / TC setting in its entirety.
Third, is there a particular reason why we are not able to store temp? Memory settings are useless, a waste of time, more confusing / obnoxious if we cant store temp. I frankly could care less what the Joules setting is as long as its between 10-50 Joules, it makes a very tiny difference, especially on TC builds.
Fourth, a screen off timer. So, I cant use Soft, Powerful, or Powerfu+ if I want my screen to turn off in a REASONABLE period of time? Eco mode is completely unnecessary.
I applied this update hoping it addresses a bizarre problem Ive been having, so far, it seems to have fixed the problem. What would happen is, randomly, during the day, for no particular reason, could be 30 draws after a replaced battery, could be 300, didnt matter, Id hit the fire button and it would fire for 3 seconds and then stop firing and the screen would immediately turn off. No error on the screen, just turn off. And once it started doing this, a battery pull or a system reboot was required to fix (it would continue to fire for only 3 seconds and then stop firing). It did this on a Kanger subtank with nickel (Ni200 9 wraps around a 3 ml at .8 ohms with cotton ball wick), a Zephyrus with kanthal (.28 kanthal dual coil 8 wrap around a 2 ml at .8 ohms with cotton ball wick), and my Veritas with a single vertical kanthal coil reading around .8 ohms (.28 twisted kanthal using steel mesh wick).
For starters, lets move Farenheit and Celcius OUT of the main section of the menu and toward the back of the menu, I shouldnt have to constantly scroll past it when I want to change my wattage / temp settings.
Second, we dont need a temp / power mode setting if we have a coil type setting. Simply add a third option to the coil type, call it 'Other - non TC' and remove the power / TC setting in its entirety.
Third, is there a particular reason why we are not able to store temp? Memory settings are useless, a waste of time, more confusing / obnoxious if we cant store temp. I frankly could care less what the Joules setting is as long as its between 10-50 Joules, it makes a very tiny difference, especially on TC builds.
Fourth, a screen off timer. So, I cant use Soft, Powerful, or Powerfu+ if I want my screen to turn off in a REASONABLE period of time? Eco mode is completely unnecessary.
I applied this update hoping it addresses a bizarre problem Ive been having, so far, it seems to have fixed the problem. What would happen is, randomly, during the day, for no particular reason, could be 30 draws after a replaced battery, could be 300, didnt matter, Id hit the fire button and it would fire for 3 seconds and then stop firing and the screen would immediately turn off. No error on the screen, just turn off. And once it started doing this, a battery pull or a system reboot was required to fix (it would continue to fire for only 3 seconds and then stop firing). It did this on a Kanger subtank with nickel (Ni200 9 wraps around a 3 ml at .8 ohms with cotton ball wick), a Zephyrus with kanthal (.28 kanthal dual coil 8 wrap around a 2 ml at .8 ohms with cotton ball wick), and my Veritas with a single vertical kanthal coil reading around .8 ohms (.28 twisted kanthal using steel mesh wick).
I find the Joules settings pretty useful, especially when switching atomizers. I did suggest to them though the ability to adjust temp instead of modes using the lowermost button.
Thanks QM.
That would explain the lethargic Vape I was getting after it settled-in. I was following the Standard and left my Temp set at 390* F thinking that was what was needed. Since you are running satisfactorily and safely without wick melt down at 490*, then obviously their Firmware and/or Algorithm is off.
Think I will stay on the Ni200 side for the time being as it is doing great set at 22.5 J & 275* with 0.21 ohm Duals. See no Sense in changing back to a malfunctioning Ti Test if can only run Settings that will not tell me anything more than the phony Parameters I likewise run on Ni200 Settings.
I'm sure they will get it dialed-in eventually. When they do, then I'll upgrade and pit it to use in real Application.
That would explain the lethargic Vape I was getting after it settled-in. I was following the Standard and left my Temp set at 390* F thinking that was what was needed. Since you are running satisfactorily and safely without wick melt down at 490*, then obviously their Firmware and/or Algorithm is off.
Think I will stay on the Ni200 side for the time being as it is doing great set at 22.5 J & 275* with 0.21 ohm Duals. See no Sense in changing back to a malfunctioning Ti Test if can only run Settings that will not tell me anything more than the phony Parameters I likewise run on Ni200 Settings.
I'm sure they will get it dialed-in eventually. When they do, then I'll upgrade and pit it to use in real Application.
I don't see any of them changes suiting me
c/f don't matter to me where it is as I don't use the menu to change wattage & temperature
temperature is set and forget, wattage/joules I use the memory m1-m5 which can also be adjusted by using the down button, so no need to use the menu there
temperature , power select I like, it keeps it clear in what mode I am in and there was no coil type selection before
lets not forget this is a beta version and they may be combined in the final release
screen off timer would be ok but not an option I am looking for as I only use eco mode for tp
once you know the temp limit that suits you, getting the joules set right is the next thing
joules should be set so its a good ramp up to tp and controls smoothly
if set to low then you need to use the powerful or powerful+ to reach your desired temp
if set to high its like racing around in too low a gear on the highway, having to keep slamming on the brakes instead of sitting back and enjoying the ride with the cruise control on
I think you totally missed the point.
1. Temp is NOT set and forget it for every user. I like my higher PG based liquids at a higher temp than VG, flavour also affects where I want my temp, I have a peanut butter and banana for example that I love really warm, where as my fruit flavours are usually much lower.
2. Temp vs power is CLEARLY defined by your coil type, a totally separate option makes no sense. If I set my setting to Nickel, Titanium, Silver, it should be clear that you are using temp control. Set to non-TC coil type, and you arent using TC.
3. This being a beta doesnt mean anything. The beta simply added a menu option (and the math to handle Titanium coils). The menu is still all over the place, completely unorganized and has no logical flow. Just because 'you' dont spend time in the menu, doesnt mean others do not. Since temp isnt stored, memory settings are useless to me.
4. Eco mode doesnt make sense. Think it through, pretty much was already explained.
I personally like Soft and Powerful but dont like the display staying on for 90 seconds, I shouldnt be forced to use Eco mode because a basic setting for setting the display doesnt exist. Heck, it doesnt even really need a setting, just shorten the screen on time to something reasonable, 10-15 seconds maybe.
I know how to set temp and Joules effectively, the truth of the matter is, it makes VERY little difference, especially if you set your Joules at 15-20+. The ramp up time is insignificant and in my opinion, too much emphasis is placed on 'how to set your Joules in relation to your temp'. The reality is, Joules and wattage will eventually go away, just as variable voltage has gone away because there will come a day when we are setting a temp and the device will attempt to reach that temp as quickly as possible.
Setting your temp too high isnt anything remotely close to setting your gear too high. Joules is merely your ramp up time and that is it. With a .1 nickel build set to 400 degrees at 15 Joules and the coil cold, you should hit temp in 2 seconds, at 30 Joules, you'll hit temp in 3/4 of a second. Once you hit temp, it sits there and regulates your power down WAY lower than what you set it at to maintain that temp, for 400 degrees on a .1 ohm coil, its probably around 6-8 Joules once it hits temp.
Now, to clarify the above paragraph, there are certain builds and atty types, the Kayfun 4 with the old spring style being one example where having your Joules set too high makes for a bizarre vaping experience but that is primarily because the SX cant accurately read the resistance correctly.
Frankly, I dont use the memory settings, I use the menu system because, as I said before, I could give two poos whether my Joules is at 20 or 50 with TC, it doesnt matter. The memory setting is absolutely useless when at the core, temp is the thing that we need to be able to store and adjust. Joules simply dont matter and in fact, if a proper screen timeout was implemented, whether it be a setting or just a hard coded REASONABLE time of 10-15 seconds, Joules in my book could nearly be removed, Soft, Powerful, Powerfu+ should be about all anyone needs, but I can see that causing a storm of epic proportions to those that dont understand temp control.
I'm glad somebody isn't in charge of making the firmware for this device. ^^^
well that summed it up nicely
hope you find what your looking for with another mod
- Status
Similar threads
- Locked