Youde Zephyrus
- Thread starter tehmidcap
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Ok weird problem. I got 2 new factory coils for mine yesterday. I took the first one and set up like I did my original. I've been running off the rebuildable for a few weeks, and the wicking on that is a PIA but found a local shop that had new coils in stock. Anyway after an hour I notice that not everything on the tank is tight. When I screwed it down my mod got really hot and I got a burned taste. I pulled over immediately and dropped the burning hot battery on the road. Stayed with it for a few minutes while it cooled. Got done running around got home and checked the battery. Toasted! Thought that maybe I ran it too low. Nope. Almost toasted another. I figured since nothing else has ever done that on my Nemesis, I better check the coils. Got out the ohm meter. As I was screwing the base down my resistance dropped from .32 to .06!!!! unscrew it from bottom out and it rises to .32. Unscrew the coil from the base while it's sitting on the meter and I get the same thing. ON BOTH NEW COILS!!!! Did I put something together wrong??
It is always a good practice to check your resistance first before firing a new build because shorts do happen. My guess is that one or both of your coils may be touching the chimney causing a short. It is not always easy to see that since it happens after you screw the chimney down and it may not be easy to see. A resistance check before firing a new build is always recommended.
My check on the resistance meter was done with no other parts, just the base and the coil. I'm thinking I may have an issue with the grommet and firing pin. It may be pushing the pin too far up and shorting it against the side of the 510
Someone on another forum was saying they had that problem with one of their Youde prebuilts, and was going on a rant telling everyone that their heads are dangerous.
I was having trouble understanding how exactly it was happening though. The center pin in the airflow base is only making contact with the positive pin of the coil head and I can't see how or why it would push the positive pin so hard that it was pushing so hard through the grommet that it was actually making metal-to-metal contact with the body of the head.... Unless they chose a very poor material for the grommet that does not make a good insulator. If that is what is happening maybe find an o-ring to put underneath the grommet for an extra layer of protection?
But the 510 of the Zephyrus isn't that long and the pin isn't that proud so I could only see mods with a fixed 510 center pin really being an issue, in which case I would be careful screwing it down completely tight unless you added some personal insulation there. Otherwise adjust the pin on your mod, if possible, so it's making nice firm contact but not actually PUSHING.
The pin doesn't move at all with the RBA head attached, and I haven't tried my prebuilt yet.
I was having trouble understanding how exactly it was happening though. The center pin in the airflow base is only making contact with the positive pin of the coil head and I can't see how or why it would push the positive pin so hard that it was pushing so hard through the grommet that it was actually making metal-to-metal contact with the body of the head.... Unless they chose a very poor material for the grommet that does not make a good insulator. If that is what is happening maybe find an o-ring to put underneath the grommet for an extra layer of protection?
But the 510 of the Zephyrus isn't that long and the pin isn't that proud so I could only see mods with a fixed 510 center pin really being an issue, in which case I would be careful screwing it down completely tight unless you added some personal insulation there. Otherwise adjust the pin on your mod, if possible, so it's making nice firm contact but not actually PUSHING.
The pin doesn't move at all with the RBA head attached, and I haven't tried my prebuilt yet.
ok here goes
DO NOT USE THIS TANK ON A MOD WITH A FIXED PIN!!!
The stock coils are shorter on the bottom then the RBA section. This is why my battery burned out. The pin floated up and actually recessed into the 510 on the tank (A la "hybrid"). I'll try to post a link to a video showing this.
DO NOT USE THIS TANK ON A MOD WITH A FIXED PIN!!!
The stock coils are shorter on the bottom then the RBA section. This is why my battery burned out. The pin floated up and actually recessed into the 510 on the tank (A la "hybrid"). I'll try to post a link to a video showing this.
I was getting some leaking while using the rba deck and thought it was my bad wicking job, but recently tried the stock pre-built head and I'm seeing the same leaking. It's this standard for this tank? Anyone have an idea what I'm doing wrong or have any suggestions for eliminating the leaks? It's the only thing preventing me using this now.
I've been using this on an Invader Mini (fixed pin) for quite some time now with no problems whatsoever with the pre-built or RBA coils.
I've been using titanium with good results so far. 26g Ti Gr1, can't remember if it's 2.0 or 2.5 ID, 7 or 8 wraps, reading at .17.
I really should order some Ti Gr1, that sounds like a winner.
I just picked this tank up from a B&M yesterday for slightly too much, but the owner of the shop threw in an extra .3ohm coil, so that was nice. Complete impulse buy, didn't think I needed/wanted this one, I don't know why I hesitated, I'm really liking it now that I have it.
The stock coil that came in my package, was OK, I ran about 15MLs of juice through it yesterday, and this morning, flavor seemed a bit muted, but still good. I wanted to try the RBA head, so I put a quick 24g dual 9wrap 2mm ID build on it, wicked it up, and was amazed at how much better I liked it. The airflow is much smoother than my stock coil, which kind of whisted, and was a bit turbulent wide open. Maybe my stock coil isn't the best, I have an extra to try later, but the airflow with the RBA is pretty nice, and flavor with this build isn't too shabby, better than the stock coil so far. I can see myself no longer using my Goblin now.
It's in my mail box right now... I get to play around it when I get back from work.... Heck yeah!
Next time I order wire it will be 28g. I'd like to get the resistance a bit higher, but I can't fit any more in the RBA. I've been using Spider Silk, but I've heard good reports of the etsy vendor Unkapen or something like that? Check out this thread if you're interested. There's more than you could ever want to know about Ti wire.
Titanium wire, vaping and safety | Page 84 | E-Cigarette Forum
Well tonight I definitely took that walk on the wild side! 
I built my first Zephyrus dual Ti coil using my first batch of DIY I made a few nights ago. I have made 3 batches so far. This one is a creamy Cappuccino blend and the results are just awesome! 
It is also my first Ti build! 
Using my just received SpiderSilk 26ga Ti I made 2 2.5mm coils for the Zephyrus RBA section. It was 6 spaced 2.5mm wraps with very short 2mm legs which is needed for this tight RBA. I broke my first coil tightening down the coil with those tiny screws it has so I had to build another one. That Ti wire is so springy and stiff it was very difficult to work with and very tedious to get it just right. The coils are probably close to 1mm away from the metal ring so I had to be super careful to get the placement where it wouldn't short. I kept checking the resistance to be sure I didn't have a short.
Then came the wicking fun. I know lots of folks have had wicking problems on the Zephyrus RBA by placing the cotton too far into the 4 juice wells, so I decided to give the Grimm Green Zephrus method a try. I pulled the cotton up vertically and tried to get the metal ring in place. Easier said than done and it took me about 10 minutes to make that happen. Then I cut the wicks at the ring level and attempted to push the 4 cotton wicks down towards their respective juice channels. The damn thing was so tight (lots of jokes thought here) it barely all fit. It was just jammed packed in there.
I put it on the SXM to measure the resistance. It was .126 ohms which was very close to the Steam Engine goal of .121 I was aiming for. I juiced it up, put the atty together and filled her up with my first DIY ejuice. Then came a moment of silence where I just wondered what to expect. I took a few pulls and then I found a sweet spot of 420F and needed 26J to keep it there. The vapor production was Rip Trippers style with amazing flavor production. The wicking is handling anything I can throw at it.
Tonight I am in vaping heaven and my head is spinning with just 3mg of nicotine strength just pouring through the device and into my lungs at an amazing rate! Probably the best vape experience I have ever had.
Just incredible and unexpected results!
I built my first Zephyrus dual Ti coil using my first batch of DIY I made a few nights ago. I have made 3 batches so far. This one is a creamy Cappuccino blend and the results are just awesome! It is also my first Ti build! Using my just received SpiderSilk 26ga Ti I made 2 2.5mm coils for the Zephyrus RBA section. It was 6 spaced 2.5mm wraps with very short 2mm legs which is needed for this tight RBA. I broke my first coil tightening down the coil with those tiny screws it has so I had to build another one. That Ti wire is so springy and stiff it was very difficult to work with and very tedious to get it just right. The coils are probably close to 1mm away from the metal ring so I had to be super careful to get the placement where it wouldn't short. I kept checking the resistance to be sure I didn't have a short.
Then came the wicking fun. I know lots of folks have had wicking problems on the Zephyrus RBA by placing the cotton too far into the 4 juice wells, so I decided to give the Grimm Green Zephrus method a try. I pulled the cotton up vertically and tried to get the metal ring in place. Easier said than done and it took me about 10 minutes to make that happen. Then I cut the wicks at the ring level and attempted to push the 4 cotton wicks down towards their respective juice channels. The damn thing was so tight (lots of jokes thought here) it barely all fit. It was just jammed packed in there.
I put it on the SXM to measure the resistance. It was .126 ohms which was very close to the Steam Engine goal of .121 I was aiming for. I juiced it up, put the atty together and filled her up with my first DIY ejuice. Then came a moment of silence where I just wondered what to expect. I took a few pulls and then I found a sweet spot of 420F and needed 26J to keep it there. The vapor production was Rip Trippers style with amazing flavor production. The wicking is handling anything I can throw at it.
Tonight I am in vaping heaven and my head is spinning with just 3mg of nicotine strength just pouring through the device and into my lungs at an amazing rate! Probably the best vape experience I have ever had.
Just incredible and unexpected results!
Having not ventured into Tc yet, is there a big difference using the zephyrus with ti or ni wire versus kanthal? Seriously considering ordering the ipv3li since my ipv3 has been rock solid. Just curious if the difference is that noticeable cause I'm also considering some specifically Tc tanks. Thoughts?
It is one of the RTA's that work well with NI200 or with Ti in TC mode. But beware the build is very tight and challenging especially with Ti due to the limited build area. If you get it right, it is awesome!
You would have to use some really thin ni200 to get a dual coil build in the rba deck. Probably 30g minimum.
Last night I built my first dual Ti on the Zephyrus using 26ga on 2.5mm. Extremely tight and a very difficult build but I got it perfect and it is performing like a charm.
Nicely done. I couldn't even get 24g 2.5mm ID to fit last night, spent a half hour trying to get the barrel on the build deck without shorting. I was using 9 wrap spaced coils, so that could have been part of it.
Reason why I said 30g for ni200 would be the amount of wraps required to get the resistance high enough on a 2mm bit, but perhaps with 2.5mm 28g may work on a yihi device. Would still probably need 30g for a dna40.
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