Vapor Flask V3 DNA40 Clone thread

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dwcraig1

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many thanks for the reply. Is 'a 50 thousands hex key' equals to 0.50mm ? Im not familiar with terminology/imperial and wanna be sure i get the correct one this one round.

cheers!
50 thousands of an inch equals 1.27 mm.
But I'm still going to tell you that the correct size is 1.4 mm (which is equal to 55 thousands of an inch)
 
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bsoplinger

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I would say the SXK
And that's the one I can order from focalecig? The 60W? I was hoping for one of the 40W ones simply because they're cheaper and I find when I'm using a Wattage based mod I'm usually at 20W to 25W so paying to get to 60 seems like overkill.

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sonicbomb

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I would never buy another Kanxin because of the 510. The Waida has grounding issues that require soldering and hard modification, and a fixed 510. The SXK has some issues (known so far), but these are easy to fix, hence why it is in my opinion the superior unit as it stands. Yes it has potentially more power than you might need for TC, but future proofing is always a wise move. The price difference is relatively very small.
 
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dwcraig1

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Rather than wait till perhaps the battery spring makes it's way above the frame I added this piece cut from a bread bag closure.
It has small amount of Super Glue Gel along it's sides but probably isn't required.
11698702_1034645403226350_8496857148916660835_n.jpg
 

dwcraig1

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The one I received from last week still has it. .04 low on each build I have tried. The only outlier is my Subtank original. Tha one is within .01.

Not sure why.

Sean
Is that the 25 mm ST? If so probably doesn't get the best connection with that little spring loaded pin on the ST. I cut mine off and built it up a fuzz with silver bearing solder, spot on now.
 

seanol

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Yes, that is the one. I have not had any issues with resistance moving so I have left it for now. My favorite tanks are my Aqua V2 and Goliath. Now that I have Titanium wire building a dual coil is much simpler than with nickel so the Subtank does not see much in the rotation.
Thanks for the info,
Sean
 
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nelsonm64

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I'm really sorry if this has already been discussed but, has anyone been able to put a spring loaded 510 in a Waidea flask?

I received a V4 flask yesterday. it has no engravings on the bottom, has dna40 on boot. sofar it's been ok... no delay in firing but it does need 2 clicks to wake it from deep sleep. only thing I don't like is the fixed 510. sure would like to get a spring loaded one in it if there's one that will fit nicely :)
 

dwcraig1

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I'm really sorry if this has already been discussed but, has anyone been able to put a spring loaded 510 in a Waidea flask?

I received a V4 flask yesterday. it has no engravings on the bottom, has dna40 on boot. sofar it's been ok... no delay in firing but it does need 2 clicks to wake it from deep sleep. only thing I don't like is the fixed 510. sure would like to get a spring loaded one in it if there's one that will fit nicely :)
Be sure to protect the battery positive contact from the 510 positive as there's not much clearance.
Here's a good post describing how to.
Vapor Flask V3 DNA40 Clone thread | Page 136 | E-Cigarette Forum
 
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KenD

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I'll post this here as well as I'm unsure if anyone is following the rDNA clone thread.

My SXK rDNA (60w) just started autofiring :-( I've submitted a ticket to fasttech but as I really like the mod I'd rather fix it than send it back. Any ideas how to do that? I opened it up and couldn't see anything obvious, no torn wire cover or so.

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dwcraig1

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I'll post this here as well as I'm unsure if anyone is following the rDNA clone thread.

My SXK rDNA (60w) just started autofiring :-( I've submitted a ticket to fasttech but as I really like the mod I'd rather fix it than send it back. Any ideas how to do that? I opened it up and couldn't see anything obvious, no torn wire cover or so.

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I don't know if switches or on-board switches were used but if switches were used look for loose strands from the wires at the solder points on the board.
 

KenD

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I don't know if switches or on-board switches were used but if switches were used look for loose strands from the wires at the solder points on the board.
The rDNA uses a secondary board for the switches but I'm not sure how that's wired up to the chip. Didn't want to muck around too much in the case. From what I've seen, none of the clone boards have onboard switches (would love to get one for my ZNA, but that would require onboard switches).

In any case, looks like I'll be returning it to fasttech. I'm afraid I'll destroy the thing if I go to town on it... I just hope that they'll be able to get a new device or repair the old one.

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nelsonm64

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