Introducing... my bottom feeding mod (MyMod)
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Based on the pics of the innards and the estimated price point: SOLD! Sign me up for a raw aluminum.
I really like the red and the blue, but would be happy with any color you decide, Paul!
How low have you tested builds on your device Paul?
Depends on the actual fuse,how long the current flows and the rest time between uses.
Many fuses can take 150% for several seconds.
I will test that next week. So far, I've been just checking for the basics, leakage, user friendliness, etc.. Everything is fine so far, not surprising since I took a lot of time on it.
From the pic of the inside, you can see the PEEK screws holding down the positive terminal spring. A PEEK screw is also used for the firing button. So I did build this with sub ohmers in mind.
Nice. I'd probably run your device in the 50w range so I'm hoping that won't be an issue
How easy is it going to be to take it apart for a deep cleaning......Using deoxit and such! Or will you address maintance that in the video you have talked about! Sweet looking so far brother! I'm all in on a red!
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The mod is very simple to take apart for deep cleaning. I had that in mind from the start. As you can see from the pic, it uses plenty of screws, all located in easy to access locations. With a screw driver or two, one can take apart the mod completely.
In my opinion, one of the worst thing that can happen to a mechanical mod is having loose connections. Having all connections in easy to access locations allow users to periodically tighten/adjust/or apply Noalox as necessary.
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I used copper. But the material that I used to make the prototype are not necessarily the same material I will use for production. For the prototype, I was more interested in testing the basic concepts and ergonomics of the mod, and the goal is to make the parts as quickly and cheaply as possible.
why don't you guys tell me what materials you prefer to see for the positive contact and the 510 center pin?
The 510 connector is already made out of stainless steel.
I'm talking about the 510 center pin and the positive spring. There are tons of copper alloys out there, any particular preferences?
Notice how the positive spring is screwed down on the 510 center pin. Plenty of contact area there.
The center pin that would have juice contact is what I was referring to. Anything that is in the juice path I would prefer to be stainless
As far as the 510 I'd like to see all stainless. Rather have bulletproof than ultra low voltage drop.
I don't know about all the copper alloys for the positive spring but I would trade longevity for ease of changing it out once in a while.
Awesome job so far!
I don't know about all the copper alloys for the positive spring but I would trade longevity for ease of changing it out once in a while.
Awesome job so far!
The only thing I'd be concerned with is arcing and pitting as far as the copper leaf positive contact...... COULD ANYONE MORE FAMILIAR ADD TO THIS ..... WHY..... did Rob @ reo go with gold plated copper leaf and spring? Less likely to arc and pit batteries?
I Second that anything that touches juice be stainless steel .!! Cooper is not good as a pathway through the 510!!
Paul how is the 510 adjustable? Spring,
screw?
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Paul, it was well worth the wait, you do beautiful work.
I'm on the list so I'll just wait until they are ready. Once again, very nicely done sir!
I'm on the list so I'll just wait until they are ready. Once again, very nicely done sir!
I must have missed a photo?
You should do a photoshoot when they're ready!
A picture's worth...well...it's better than answering the same question 50 times!
You should do a photoshoot when they're ready!
A picture's worth...well...it's better than answering the same question 50 times!
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