Keep Stripping Mod Threads

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njcrouth

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Oct 26, 2012
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In the past 6 months, I have ruined three mods - a Tesla, a Vamo V5, and now a sigelei Mini. Somehow, I keep stripping the threads on the connection. I've used an Aspire nautilus an all the mods. Does anyone else have this issue? It's strange because its not like the threads wear out over time that I notice. They will be fine, and then they won't be fine, and within a day, I can't get my tank to attach.
 

Racehorse

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In the past 6 months, I have ruined three mods - a Tesla, a Vamo V5, and now a Sigelei Mini. Somehow, I keep stripping the threads on the connection. I've used an Aspire Nautilus an all the mods. Does anyone else have this issue? It's strange because its not like the threads wear out over time that I notice. They will be fine, and then they won't be fine, and within a day, I can't get my tank to attach.

I don't use "mods" anymore but when I did I used 510-to-510 connectors/adapters. That way, you are only wearing out the threads on the connectors, which stay in the well of the mod and aren't taking a beating 20 times a week.
 

edyle

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In the past 6 months, I have ruined three mods - a Tesla, a Vamo V5, and now a Sigelei Mini. Somehow, I keep stripping the threads on the connection. I've used an Aspire Nautilus an all the mods. Does anyone else have this issue? It's strange because its not like the threads wear out over time that I notice. They will be fine, and then they won't be fine, and within a day, I can't get my tank to attach.

the 510 thread standard has been a weakness in tank design for a long time; it's really a cigalike sized thread.
With all the devices I have I hardly ever screw/unscrew 510 threads;
I recently standardized on m21x1 threaded mods and now leave mod topcaps permanently screwed onto my tanks/rda's.

With a clearo like the nautilus, you can leave the base semipermanently on the mod, and just remove the top part (upside down) when you need to refill.
And with the vamo, after you screw on the nautilus (not too tight), and check the ohms, unscrew the top part of the vamo - the ring on top and tighten it onto the nautilus to lock it in place; that puts less wear/wobble on the 510 thread
 

TXBiker

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The Sig mini had issues with the first couple of runs but was supposedly fixed. Vamo's were notorious for failed 510's and I have zero experience with tesla except for seeing one a while back. I've got 2 Vapor Sharks and a Sig 150 and haven't had any 510 issues no matter how much I snug down my atties. I think someone fixed a Sig mini in the APV threads with a FDV 510 a few months back.
 

BrotherBob

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DaveP

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I agree with stainless steel threads. Mods today generally have spring loaded center contacts. You only need to tighten until slightly snug. They will vape even when the atty isn't bottomed out. Tightening completely is only necessary to prevent it from unscrewing and falling off, not to ensure contact.

When you constantly install and remove an atty (which has SS threads) on a mod that has "pot metal" cast threads or aluminum threads, it's a recipe for failure. Some inexpensive mods have soft threads to save money and you are going to toss the mod anyway when the battery fails to hold a charge.

Using an Ego adapter, as described in the previous post, is a good move that saves the threads in your mod.
 
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