What? You don't believe what the manufacturers will say about their products in any way? shame on you!
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Cool fire 4 or istick 30w?
- Thread starter Darth Omerta
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Excellent! I have some M-Tech batteries you might be interested in.
The best batteries in the world...M-Tech | E-Cigarette Forum
Excellent! I have some M-Tech batteries you might be interested in.
The best batteries in the world...M-Tech | E-Cigarette Forum
" Too much testing of rewrapped batteries"? I think I will pass on those!
Actually my interests in higher wattage type mods has nothing to do with cloud making but simply getting more out of vaping now that the much needed "Better Tanks" are finally being seen! While seeing a 10w max SMOK Tumbler sitting on a VV/VW eGo-V battery I rely much more on getting the increase of flavor as well as vapor from the ejuice I use here with the better gear. For the 150w Luxyoun the 20-100w FreeMax tank works on that at 70-80w like a champ there. No more dry wicking issues we all saw not too long ago on the 1.6ml CE2-4 stuff. BCC, BDC, BVC progressive progress has been seen since! 
If she likes running at higher wattages while 18w isn't actually that high at this time and date with all the new Big W toys out the last thing you want is higher ohms as far as coils are concerned! In fact to have a choice between great premade coils like 0.2ohm, 0.4ohm plus the option to rebuild your own coils the latest offering from Aspire would seem to fit the bill namely the new Triton tank You do need either a needle bottle like a good 10ml size or filling syringe however since the tank is filled from the top once you remove the wide tip and collar to look down in to see the two small holes one for air when filling through the other.
The Aspire RTA Kit is sold separately unless you already the necessary tools and wire, cotton to work with.http://vapingcheap.com/aspire-trito...il&utm_term=0_7360dbf574-d5cb9e525a-193095317
The 0.4 coils handles the 0.2ohm coils handle just over 40w while the 0.4ohm sees about the same range as the cotton coils for the Atlantis tank of 20w-35w. The new tank also is almost a first at seeing a second Air Flow Controller on the top ring of the tank section as well as the one at the bottom for fine tuning the air flow to preference. Adding further the Aspire coils always seem to hold up much longer then what I have seen with other brands as far as the premade coils are concerned and do a great job.
With all due respect, did you happen to notice what coils she IS using? They are not .4ohms, they are 1.9ohms. 18W has become too much even for her. At that wattage she is running her coils at 356 mW/mm^2. Thats extreme heat and will burn out the coil and the wick VERY fast.
My fiancee LIKES higher ohms. Subohming is NOT for everyone. Just cause you can go low doesnt mean you have to. Tons of tootlepuffers out there. What I love to do is work with the vaper to find out what THEY want to obtain from THEIR vape experience, not try to sell them on a product that they wont want/dont need.
Im not trying to be rude but it seems like every post you've made in this thread was trying to tell me about products I didnt ask about and have little interest in. I am not an inexperienced vaper, I dont know everything there is to know but when I ask a specific question I find it VERY frustrating when someone diverts the question with an answer that has nothing to do with what Im asking about.
It is for this reason that I almost never go in to vape shops. I know enough about vaping to know what I am shopping for and I dont need to be sold on the top selling generic brands. Yes Ive heard of Aspire...hard to believe I know...but its true.
You do know your stuff as well and I mean no ill will.
respectfully,
Darth
My fiancee LIKES higher ohms. Subohming is NOT for everyone. Just cause you can go low doesnt mean you have to. Tons of tootlepuffers out there. What I love to do is work with the vaper to find out what THEY want to obtain from THEIR vape experience, not try to sell them on a product that they wont want/dont need.
Im not trying to be rude but it seems like every post you've made in this thread was trying to tell me about products I didnt ask about and have little interest in. I am not an inexperienced vaper, I dont know everything there is to know but when I ask a specific question I find it VERY frustrating when someone diverts the question with an answer that has nothing to do with what Im asking about.
It is for this reason that I almost never go in to vape shops. I know enough about vaping to know what I am shopping for and I dont need to be sold on the top selling generic brands. Yes Ive heard of Aspire...hard to believe I know...but its true.
You do know your stuff as well and I mean no ill will.
respectfully,
Darth
Thank you. I've gotten so much of this sub-ohm crap poked at me, till I just want to snarl. I have ASTHMA and sub-ohm is TOO HOT! I vape a 1.7 ohm coil at 9w, which makes a SPLENDID tootle puff in my Achilles.
For my new TC mod, I'm starting to learn about *titanium* sub-ohm coils, and it's a whole new ballgame, but for regular kanthal coils, I want NOTHING lower than 1.3Ω, though really anything lower than about 1.5Ω is a bit warmer than I like. The 1.7-1.8 ohm coils save my battery life better.It kinda reminds me of when I first got here and was soliciting info about cigalikes in the new users forum... and had some dweeb tell me how great his sub-ohm dripper on a mech was.
Of course I didn't have the first clue what he was talking about, so he was easy to ignore. Andria
Due to some type of server glitch this reply is rather late but...
Yes I did and for higher resistance coils you need a mod with VV adjustment since it takes a higher voltage(bumping up from 3.6 or 3.7v to the typicaly 4.2v) not higher wattages to get more out of an older tank depending on just what the design is as well as what type of ejuice goes in. That can make a real difference for sure since I have been able to test certain flavors in the Atlantis at 40+w while others have to kept down at about 20-25w. Others will vape good at 30w with that particular tank.
And yes "Tank Design" is why the suggestion for something updated that works when stepping up the watts was made. The older coils are simply not made for the newer mods seen at this time that supply higher wattages then an old Vamo or VTR 3-15w VV/VW type APV! I can't run SMOK Tumblers over 10w with the coils in those BCC tanks getting HOT! For something that supplies higher wattages you need to look at the tanks that can easily handle them!You want to get her into a 30w or 40w mod but don't have a tank that handles 20w or more? It simply won't work!
For 18w the Aspire Nautilus 5ml or Mini will handle it since those two models use the exact same coils which are by the way 1.6ohm and 1.8ohm as far as what you select as the resistance for the 5 pack replacements. They typically come with the 1.8ohm preinstalled along with a spare and beauty ring in the plastic box they ship in.
While those will max at 20w for anything over 20w to start with either an RDA, RBA, RTA whatever or a sub ohm tank is what you need to be looking at. Or you simply have to advise her not to go over a certain wattage depending on the ejuice in the tank as well as what is the actual best range like 6-11w to be operated at for the present tank. Personally upgrading the tank will also provide for the upgraded vaping experience! With the new hardwares you simply have to realiize whatever the personal preferences are that you will likely have to accept the fact that a new tank not some older CE2-CE4 tank will be needed to ba a good match up.
Thank you. I've gotten so much of this sub-ohm crap poked at me, till I just want to snarl. I have ASTHMA and sub-ohm is TOO HOT! I vape a 1.7 ohm coil at 9w, which makes a SPLENDID tootle puff in my Achilles.
It kinda reminds me of when I first got here and was soliciting info about cigalikes in the new users forum... and had some dweeb tell me how great his sub-ohm dripper on a mech was.
Andria
People were rewrapping coils in 15drop drippers run on mechanical mods long before the recently brand new sub ohm tanks entered the picture. Too often the terminology "Sub Ohm" or "Sub Ohming" seems to become a block for people when in fact the only hardware difference is mainly a larger coil to handle the higher wattages and the fast the coil is at a lower resistance value. And NO! just because you run a sub ohm tank doesn't necessarily imply always seeing higher temps.
At 11w the 2ohm coil in a SMOK by SMoktech Tumbler tank is cherry red hot while at the same time a coil in the new FreeMax by Starre sub ohm tank that handles 20-100w is right about where the Tumbler would be at 7.5-8w! The Atlantis in comparison would be at 25w or 30w while the FreeMax is at 70-80w! Much higher wattage but a totally newer design with heftier coil that handles it without getting red hot. When turned upto 100w being the max then it gets HOT!
Just imagine you are still using a cig alike and your cheeks are being turned inside out trying to get a real good draw on it and tnen compare that to a tank that can handle some extra power and you not only can draw a lot of vapor but realize an actually more robust flavor from the same ejuice you regularly use or maybe didn't llike due to not getting a good hit like some other flavor from it. With the allergies here I can get really plugged up at times gasping for air even where that blast of menthol from a mentiol flavor in a tank at 20w or more does the trick. At one time I used to chain smoke about 3 packs a day to get somewhat the same if not the exact same results from the menthol in smoke. Now however I find the allergies/sinus sensitivites are not being further aggravated by menthol vapor anywhere near what smoke would do as far as lighting up a .... and that making me sneeze! If you were a medium to heavy smoker and not getting enough from vaping it's a good chance that the upgrade into a better tank is going to be what is needed if the present performance of the gear you have isn't cutting it.
Thank you. I've gotten so much of this sub-ohm crap poked at me, till I just want to snarl. I have ASTHMA and sub-ohm is TOO HOT! I vape a 1.7 ohm coil at 9w, which makes a SPLENDID tootle puff in my Achilles.
It kinda reminds me of when I first got here and was soliciting info about cigalikes in the new users forum... and had some dweeb tell me how great his sub-ohm dripper on a mech was.
Andria
Its all good! As you well know, I am by no means a tootle puffer. I sometimes wish I could run 1.5ohms and be satisfied with my vape, but alas, its not for me. I all for it though. Whatever produces the vape that works best for the user is ultimately the best device! Im glad I finally got my fiancee a device that she is happy with, and she's even dropped the wattage down to a more reasonable 13W. Still running hot coils in my opinion but Im not the one vaping on it. Maybe someday she will let me throw a couple of coils in the KFL I have collecting dust in my toolbox, but until then she's happy.
The CF4 does have VV. Most people around here dont work enough with Ohms Law to figure what wattage they're running from voltage and resistance, and most people around here use wattage as the standard measurement for understanding. I, therefore, decided to proceed using wattage in my discussion.
I wanted her to have the room to upgrade in the future if thats what she wanted to do. Also, if it turned out that she didnt like the mod, I could always use another mod kicking around and 20W is way too low for my purposes, 30-40W I can make it work. Turns out she's happy with it and that means that she is vaping more and smoking less, which is a good thing, with the added bonus that if she decides down the road that she wants to get into lower resistance vaping, she has the headroom to play with without having to buy another setup. Just because a mod CAN go up to 30-40W doesn't mean that you have to use that range. It still can be used in the lower wattage ranges, so you dont "need to look at tanks that can handle them". I know plenty of people who use 150W mods and run them in the 40-60W range because thats what they like. Would you tell them that they "need to look at tanks that can handle 150W"?
I am absolutely certain that I mentioned earlier in this thread that she has tried the Aspire Nautilus, the Aspire Atlantis and the Aspire Vivi-Nova. She HATED the Nautilus, and the Atlantis. Not one thing about them was good for what she likes. She did like the Vivi-Nova until we found that they were poorly designed and the seals kept breaking and the tank leaked like a sieve. I have 3 Nautilus tanks(2 mini and 1 5ml). I did get her to give it another shot when the CF4 arrived, and she still doesnt like the draw on it. The Genitank works for her, and in case you hadnt noticed, the Genitank runs 1.8ohm coils. The CF4 registers both the Nautilus coils and the Genitank coils as 1.9ohms so thats the resistance I used for my examples. By my inspection, the Nautilus and the Genitank are very similar in capabilities and performance, just a matter of which one gives the consumer a vape that they like. In fact, Ive been an Aspire junkie for a long time and even I am starting to think that I like the Geni better for tanks in that range. It has better airflow control, hits pretty decent for a high resistance coil setup, and its pretty sleek looking.
I have advised her that vaping at high wattage will burn out her coils much faster. That statement is true no matter what device you are using. Find the mW/mm^2 and you will know if your coil is going to run too hot or not. The heat of the coils is directly related to how much power you are pushing through them. They still will perform(and they performed very well) at that temp, they will just burnt out quicker, run through juice faster, and if the juice delivery cant keep up, the wick will burn out giving burnt taste to everything. She is learning these things as she proceeds and she has dropped down to a much more reasonable 13W (4.8V if you prefer), its still a little hot but 257mW/mm^2 is around 68% of where she was with 18W as far as heat is concerned and the coils are much better suited for this.
I have 3 RDAs and 2 RTAs and 4 sub ohm tanks. RBA is a generic term for all atomizers that are rebuildable so Im not sure why you listed it as a different option. My fiancee does not like the RDAs cause she doesnt want to drip that often, she doesnt like the RTAs because of the way it has to be filled and they both have too much airflow so the hit isnt as tight as she likes, and the sub ohm tanks just hit too hard with way too much airflow for her. I realize that you think that getting rebuildables and sub ohm tanks is the magic upgrade that will work for everyone, but that is simply not the case. Sub ohm tanks are not automatically better because they can handle more power.
I certainly dont "need" to look at anything I havent already looked at. I do know what gear is out there and what the capabilities of various devices are. When I started this thread I was looking for some feedback from people who have used the CF4 and the iStick 30W. I was wondering what they thought about how well the devices worked.
This is untrue. Lower resistances allow a greater flow of electrons through the coils, which creates more collisions, which raises the temperature(the average kinetic energy of a system). Sub ohm coils are often not larger coils, in fact they are usually smaller(for every build Ive ever done anyway, unless you're twisting wires which most prefab coils are not). One can reduce power on low resistance coils and produce a cooler vape, but that is not the intent of their design.
Its fine if you like alot of vapor production, but more vapor does not automatically give better flavor. I build build my coils between .4ohms and .8ohms depending on the atty, I enjoy lower resistances, this much is true. I am also able to produce a VERY flavorful and satisfying vape with a 1.8ohm coil and lower airflow and power. Using Ohms Law and a knowledge of how it relates to the gear you have, you can produce a very flavorful and satisfying vape with any piece of equipment.
That might as well be greek, to me. I just know what I like -- mildly warm, not too much vapor, moderate TH. And coils I can build myself, on a deck with sufficient room to work. When all these sub-ohm tanks hit the market, my initial reaction was, well I don't need THAT, since I have exactly zero interest in sub-ohming, and my 2nd reaction was, I'd certainly never want to go back to buying replacement coils -- they're inferior to those I can make (because they have NO QC!), and cost one hell of a lot more, PLUS having to wait on the dratted mailman. NO THANKS!!!
It doesn't bother me how other people vape -- most people don't have asthma, and can vape any way that pleases them. But it does get tiresome, having to constantly tell people that not only do I not want lots of vapor, I'd never be able to handle it, but I WANT to feel some resistance in the draw -- the technique is the same as smoking a cigarette, i.e., SUCKING -- the only thing I lung-hit is my inhaler, and even that sometimes makes me cough.
Andria
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LOL! Awesome!
The mW/mm^2 just shows how hot the coils get per squared milimetre. Its not an overly important detail, just helps when looking at capabilities of the coils. I wouldnt worry about it if i didnt plan my builds around the use of a mech mod. Which is my preference.
The asthma must be a true PITA, sorry you have to deal with it! Glad you have vape gear that gives you what you need. I totally agree with not enjoying being told whats going to work for me, when i have been vaping happily for over a year now. Ive got lots to learn for sure but i am no n00b lol
The mW/mm^2 just shows how hot the coils get per squared milimetre. Its not an overly important detail, just helps when looking at capabilities of the coils. I wouldnt worry about it if i didnt plan my builds around the use of a mech mod. Which is my preference.
The asthma must be a true PITA, sorry you have to deal with it! Glad you have vape gear that gives you what you need. I totally agree with not enjoying being told whats going to work for me, when i have been vaping happily for over a year now. Ive got lots to learn for sure but i am no n00b lol
Exactly! I LOVE to learn -- which is what I'm currently doing, with my new Evic-VT -- apparently the wimpy sort of coils I'm accustomed to, don't really work too well, when using TC -- so I'm happy to learn how to build some more-aggressive coils, with titanium -- my husband and I twisted up about 18" of 28ga titanium last night, so I can try some builds with that. But I'm still aiming for a vape that will be tolerable to me, without falling off in vapor and flavor within a day -- that's what I've been seeing, with my wimpy little coils, with a TC mod. And now with TC, I'll give dual coils another try; since I don't need to worry about excess heat and too much airflow, maybe I'll actually like dual coils, when used on a TC mod.
But after 15 months of building coils and learning to wick them, I have a good handle on what works for me, using my accustomed kanthal.
Andria
Its all good! As you well know, I am by no means a tootle puffer. I sometimes wish I could run 1.5ohms and be satisfied with my vape, but alas, its not for me. I all for it though. Whatever produces the vape that works best for the user is ultimately the best device! Im glad I finally got my fiancee a device that she is happy with, and she's even dropped the wattage down to a more reasonable 13W. Still running hot coils in my opinion but Im not the one vaping on it. Maybe someday she will let me throw a couple of coils in the KFL I have collecting dust in my toolbox, but until then she's happy.
Well that is the most important thing touched on in this thread so far! What makes her happy! All anyone else could do here was simply make suggestions.
To the contrary for anyone familiar with a Safe Vaping chart they had to at least learn some basics in order to pick out the gear they would use on mech or regulated and set things according the resistance, voltage, wattage graphical charts to avoid mishaps. Since those older CE2-CE4 days as we are now entering new phases of technologies like temp control being a 2015 specialty being presented the commonality of VW devices which are VW only not VV/VW as seen with the older types in updated forms adjusting wattage has actually simplify things for many without the need to run a calc for each setting. Here's a good read about VV vs VW you might have missed. Variable Voltage (VV) vs Variable Wattage (VW) Vape Devices - Vape Store Directory
I never hurts to leave room for expansion as one reviewer had previously tried to get me to look at the 180w GOD Mod a year ago and I simply didn''t want anything that requires three batteries compared to what I went for since only seeing one 18650 per mod or APV. The idea behind me getting the Luxyoun 150w was to do just that leave room for expansion later as there were no tanks like the FreeMax that handles upto a 100w out until just lately! The 50w mods running an Atlantis on them are generally run at 0nly 20w as well as the 20w iSticks and Vamos only seeing about 10-11w on average. The mods with higher then 30w like the DovPo E-LVT a 30watter simply allow the play room for the occasional flavors that simply vape better when stepping things up a bit.
Most mods do not actually provide 100% accuracy and tend to waiver as far as what they display for the resistance. You can expect them to vary at least 1% on average compared to more accurate and of course costly test gear. And I didn't recall any previous mention of the Nautilus other then making the suggestion to consider those. I wasn't saying there was anything wrong with the Genitank but from my own personal experiences with Kanger simply found Aspire to be the better move here! I've had the T3s, Aerotank, AeroTank Mega with those two having leak problems as well as not seeing good air flow and the fuss to get the AFC to work with the tanks I got in compared to an instant success with the Aspire line up! The Viva Nova has had a good rep while I never went with that one.
Too high a voltage setting will see the same result as well. A majority of tanks other then the newer sub ohms typically see a 4.4v max with a few able to get upto 4.6v even 4.8v at the extreme while other new sub ohms that take on the higher wattages are also able to get upwards of 9v with some. You have to get the specs on anything new including tanks when trying to put the best matches together.
I couldn't stand the way the first replacement tanks(Kragen supposed but not 8ml) were filled by the need to remove two phillips head screws to fill with a needle bottle or filling syringe at the top as well as drain the tank entirely through those before being able to remove the base to swap a coil out! Fortunately for the new Triton Aspire used some common sense and sees not only the wide tip but retaining collar simply pop out for filling through one of the two small holes. The second AFC at the top for controlling the air flow is what makes the latest addition a progressive success story for sub ohm type tanks however.
As for the 30w iSticks just like the 30w MVP 3.0 with each coming out right after I had already bought the 20w version of each I passed and after having moved into other 50w and the 150w mods I went for the 50w iSticks following the late 2014 upgrade of hardwares here and was still updating the tanks until now. The fact that you don't personally need anything you already looked over comes as no surprise, But are we still talking about upgrading you or someone else? You already what works well for you. Believe me I have already tried to upgrade some still smokers into something other then cig alikes during the first year of vaping here and ran into brick walls at times.
It's not only lower resistances I was pointing to but "Tank Design" also playing a major role in things! The Eleaf Melo sub ohm sees 0.5ohm coils as well as the Atlantis but seriously flops in comparison with an almost useless AFC as well as being made of aluminum not stainless. Cheap quality for iSmoka seen there! Innokin fared much better with their iSub tanks!
WIth the SMOK Tumblerseeing both 2.4ohm standard and 2ohm LR coils I found the 2,4s were simply miserable while the tanks were subsequently ordered not only with color choices but from vendors who carried them with the 2ohm coils preinstalled for the best result with that tank's design. With the Nautilus I went mainly with the 1.8ohm not 1.6ohm and ordered the same in spares right before the Atlantis came out which took a fast lead on the 50w mods. The 20w and 15w epipe will tend to the 5ml and Mini tanks. I run specified flavors in the Mini tanks while occasionally sampling anything new in various tanks at various wattages to find the best vape from each.
And since I couldn't fit it in there I did want to point you at a review seen on the Cool Fire IV I thought says it all. Innokin Cool Fire IV Review | Vaping Cheap
The CF line is indicated as being part of Innokin's MVP family of mods which have already proven themselves time and again for reliability as well as the CFs being easy to use for the less novice vaper. Yet the iSticks I went for here have also been found to be reliable as well perhaps from not beating on them constantly but switching between mods since I carry a pair, a mod stand at the computer desk with more, and then even more on the tv stand!
The CF line is indicated as being part of Innokin's MVP family of mods which have already proven themselves time and again for reliability as well as the CFs being easy to use for the less novice vaper. Yet the iSticks I went for here have also been found to be reliable as well perhaps from not beating on them constantly but switching between mods since I carry a pair, a mod stand at the computer desk with more, and then even more on the tv stand!
Do you even understand ohms law? If you change wattage then voltage changes and vice versa! If course you dont need to understand it that well if you use prefab coils and regulated mods (though you still should). I am holding the CF4 in my hand and i am able to set it to VV or VW. I am now done with this as you obviously dont understand.
Well you should already know then that with most new VW mods that problem is already remedied. When you go to adjust the wattage setting the mod will automatically adjust the voltage according to the resistance of the tank or atomizer attached.
As an electronic tech I had to be well familiar with Ohm's Law long before you ever thought of vaping as well being some time before the first ecigs were manufactured in China and marketed.
As an electronic tech I had to be well familiar with Ohm's Law long before you ever thought of vaping as well being some time before the first ecigs were manufactured in China and marketed.
I could also point at a good number of Safe Vaping charts simply by looking them on Bing. Bing Images
You'd think that Innokin would have designed the CF4 to increment in tenths of a volt and tenths of a watt just for the flexibility. The reality is that it takes a tenth or two of voltage change to increase the power a half watt. Whether it changes .1 or .2 depends on the resistance. So, Innokin probably decided that they'd go ahead and flip a half watt at a time to ease changes that could be sensed in the vape. Those who wanted to fine tune could use the voltage mode. If I want a change I can taste I usually go from 3.7 to 4.0
That said, there are still vapers who think wattage tastes better than voltage. It's all based on Ohm's Law - The basics - Ohms Law Formulas Explained to save you time
That said, there are still vapers who think wattage tastes better than voltage. It's all based on Ohm's Law - The basics - Ohms Law Formulas Explained to save you time
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What I kept noticing between VV and VW eGo batteries was I was getting much further adjusting the wattage over turning the voltage adjuster on the bottom of a battery! Those saw 0.5w increments over the 0.1w and were fine the way they are! TWEAKING is more for those who want to get all teched out while for many waiting to watch the adjustment go 0.1w up or down simply means pressing and holding the up or down plus or minus button a little longer in some cases. Other then that user preference.
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