Exactly, i also saw some builds where they would just lump the cotton into the coil chamber, hence my confusion. Thanks for the clarification!after seeing quite a few build videos I have thought to myself that question too. In a physical standpoint I think it is both is viable however taste will definitely vary as the surface area difference. Another issue is the depending on the size of the air holes, juice can leak through the typical bottom airflow models so threading is slightly more preferred. (unless of course precise packing of cotton to avoid air holes coordinating coil size etc.)
slight burn taste usually mean you have too little cotton in between the thread in my case where the cotton isnt providing enough juice to the coil. But it could also mean there's too much cotton blocking the juice flow. All in all its quite an art to perfect the size but once you get the hang of it, it should be fairly consistent. Also please replace wicking/coil if burnt else the taste will follow for quite some time if you just replace one of the two.
Well, bad news, my coil broke... Gotta wait for a new one i guess. Unless i can repair the microcoil, which is near impossible...After you thread in the cotton, prime a bit of juice(I use VG) then fire the coil check for hot spot.
If you see any red area on the coil, those are hot spot meaning your cotton is too thin.
If you thread too much cotton, you may get the burnt taste as well. This is due to that the cotton is all squeeze up and failed to wick.
It'll take a few try for starter. Ideally the cotton wick stay fluffy in the coil while touching all the coil internal surface.
Yeah if i were using RBA it wouldnt be a problem. Guess i gotta get better gear to prevent this situations from happening in the future.just buy kanthal? if you're on RBA that is
Yeah if i were using RBA it wouldnt be a problem. Guess i gotta get better gear to prevent this situations from happening in the future.
Yeah just did a quick search on youtube and found out i could do a rebuild. But it needed nickel wire to do so. Any idea where i can find it locally?
Thanks for the comprehensive tutorial! I did try that pulling back and forth method, but thats what broke my coil. Maybe i used a little too much force.Plain old cotton is good, but Japanese cotton (Kho Gen Do) is better. I have some Egyptian cotton that's pretty good.
The trick with cotton wicking (or any wicking) is to size it to the coil so that it's not too tight or too loose. I usually cut a strip and roll it lightly with my fingers to shape it into a round strip that will slide into the coil. I usually roll it tightly between my fingers on one end to create a narrow point to get it into the coil, pull it to the center, and slide it back and forth to find the spot that slips back and forth without shredding the cotton. That's the sweet spot. If it's shredding off cotton when you slide it, it may be too tight, but you can pull off the extra that sticks up until it fits just right. Cut it to a length on both sides that allows the ends to sit where they can absorb juice and you are done. On an RBA you want the ends to sit lightly on the coil deck. If your are rebuilding a commercial head, you just have to replicate the way it was done when you popped it apart.
Yeah just did a quick search on youtube and found out i could do a rebuild. But it needed nickel wire to do so. Any idea where i can find it locally?