Mike n Tibs DNA Mods!
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A picture is worth a thousand words.[emoji2]that's pretty personal
It is real difficult to troubleshoot soldering issues, and offer meaningful advice, remotely without seeing it.
Sent from phone.
I've been adding some solder to the pad, tinning my wire, putting some flux on the pad and the wire and some solder on the tip of the iron but I can't get them to flow together and they look like .... lol.
I use a hotter iron than that myself.
Find a scrap circuit board and practice on it using the heavy wire.
Sent from phone.
Find a scrap circuit board and practice on it using the heavy wire.
Sent from phone.
If your using one of these guns make sure the tip nuts or screws that hold the tip are darn good and tight otherwise you'll loose heat and it takes forever to heat up. Take the tip off and clean all the points where it connects very well with some steel wool or a scotch bright pad. Let the gun come up to full temperature before touching the tip to the work, you don't want to keep the heat on the components any longer then it takes for the solder to flow. I've seen a lot of people hit the switch, wait 15 seconds then hold the tip on the work until it finally get hot enough for the solder to flow. And remember, solder flows toward the heat.
Yea I'm not using a gun. Also my tips are in less than perfect shape. I'm going to pick up some replacements and try again. Just wondering the methods you guys use as far as wire and solder placement
I use a variable temperature iron, so I don't think my method is applicable...for the fat stuff I put on a medium tip, cleaned and tinned. Flux pad and wire, tin pad and wire. Re-flux surface of tinning. I flux and tin the iron with a heavy solder layer. Hold the iron to the wire over the pad but not touching, let the wire tinning get flowing and then press down so the heat in the wire quickly melts the pad tinning. It takes longer to describe than to do.
I use a cheep weller from the home depot it works fine
I clean the tip with a pair of pliers, carbon build up can reduce it's efficiency. with a huge pad like the new 200 has I don't pre tin. I place the wire on the pad, squish down with the iron and apply solder to the wire not the Iron. What's funny is I find the dna 40's harder to solder than the new 200's Orange one with the led lights? That's what I useI use a cheep weller from the home depot it works fine
I use a temperature controlled iron with a medium pointed tip and set at 650F. The iron produces about 60 watts. I flux the wire and pad(both sides), insert the wire through the hole, clean the tip in a wet sponge, tin the tip and have a drop of solder on it, then apply it to the wire/pad junction and apply a little rosin core 22 gauge solder. Everything is held in place by a "third hand" other than the iron and solder. I do wear a jewelers loupe when doing this, just to make sure.
I find a fat tip helps immensely in many situations, including soldering thick wire.....
Yep got my biggest tip out for the 14 AWG, not only better contact area but also stores more heat.
Agreed. It seems counter-intuitive that you'd want a larger tip for such a pinpoint soldering job, but a smaller tip means you need to leave it on the board longer to heat up the wire.
Thanks for the tips guys
I am using a pretty big tip. so big I may have touched a fuse or two in the process lol
Can someone who used the Blueridgedog enclosure tell me what their assembly steps were and how long of wire you used for your ground and output?
I am using a pretty big tip. so big I may have touched a fuse or two in the process lol
Can someone who used the Blueridgedog enclosure tell me what their assembly steps were and how long of wire you used for your ground and output?
You do NOT want to use a solder gun for circuit boards.If your using one of these guns make sure the tip nuts or screws that hold the tip are darn good and tight otherwise you'll loose heat and it takes forever to heat up. Take the tip off and clean all the points where it connects very well with some steel wool or a scotch bright pad. Let the gun come up to full temperature before touching the tip to the work, you don't want to keep the heat on the components any longer then it takes for the solder to flow. I've seen a lot of people hit the switch, wait 15 seconds then hold the tip on the work until it finally get hot enough for the solder to flow. And remember, solder flows toward the heat.
I use the same one (Weller 40w). The tips aren't the best and you need to take good care of them before, during and after use or they crap out really quick. I use a brass sponge to clean the tip and tin it before and after soldering.
KTMRider can i see how much wire you used for you BlueridgeDog enclosure for output and ground? And what order did you assemble things?
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