from a logistics standpoint it makes alot more sense to make 1 chip and just restrict it in the firmware like they did.
DNA 200 Watt
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from a logistics standpoint it makes alot more sense to make 1 chip and just restrict it in the firmware like they did.
Truer words... Any company that builds different boards for different power and batter types doesn't have a clue what they are doing. You build one board and put whatever restrictions or enhancements on it via software.
That is so elementary Watson I am left speechless and that doesn't happen very often.
PS - any 200 watt Mod (which is ridiculous on it's own) that comes with the equivalence of a single 18650 is just dumb. Before you start yelling at me I bought a hana modz V200 - what can I say I like shinny new toys you can make up for a lot of stupid with software that lets me update the firmware and tweak some setting.
Get both
Don't flirt me into it, I'm extremely easy.
Like I said. hana V200. it's the same size as the single battery hana V4. so its not really like the form factor of the battery really matters. since mods can be the same size as standard 18650s.A DNA 50 or whatever wouldn't result in much smaller mods.
It's not really the price of the chip that is the issue. Hell the DNA 200 is cheaper than the SX350J I think. It's just that mods with DNA chips tend to be around 200+ dollars.
But now that chinese companies are also using authentic DNA boards we should see cheaper and cheaper DNA enabled mods coming out.
I know a bit about 18650 safety but with all the DNA mods having LiPo batteries, other than common sense is there anything that users should know? I got a custom mod coming with an 1850mah 3S lipo and I don't want to end up doing something with my mod that would have been fine on a dual 18650 and end up having my mod explode or something. I know it's a stupid question but I just don't see much about safety with LiPo batteries. Also in regards to charging, is there a special way to that or can I just plug in my phone charger and hook it up to my mod?
I should have the V200 tomorrow and I'm definitely getting a VS DNA200. I have 1 DNA200 in a printed box (Thanks BRD!!!) and one more board waiting for an enclosure.
Life is too short to vape on cheap chinese mods
The safest way to charge a DNA200 would be to use a usb charger. It limits to 1a and cuts off when fully charged. If it's built/wired correctly, you'll be fine. Just don't leave the mod in the car on a hot summer day.
At what amperage does the onboard charger charge each cell in a 3S ? 1 amp for each?
I don't leave my mods in the car, but my Garmin GPS (LiPo) has never left the car.
Sometimes on the dash, in direct sun. Has never exploded. Has to get to 140 in a closed up car, down here.
I don't know
I'd like to get a new car tho.......
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I might be completely wrong, but all I've heard is that the balance charger is 1 amp. That would mean 1/3 amp per each cell. Or guess it could be expressed as 1 amp for the whole pack, but split between the cells. Long charging time, but not much longer than one regular 18650 charged through the DNA40's USB port (with the mAh ratings for the dna200 mods I've heard of). But, I'm only guessing.
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Nothing much to worry about. Maybe don't lock it up in a car when its blistering hot outside. low quality lipos don't like heat.
You definitely do NOT need to worry about amps. most lipos have continous amps at like 35-40(hell my lipo is 55 amps) so the DNA 200 will never stress out the battery.
I wish the DNA 200 charged at atleast 2 amps. Lipos tend to be able to handle pretty high charging currents. My lipo seems to be able to handle up to 5 amps of charging if I am right.
A 1A USB charger operates at 5V, so 1A*5V, charges at 5W (minus losses in the cable).
The actual current that this corresponds to on the battery depends on its current state of charge. At 9V, 5W/9V=0.555A, while at 12.6V, 0.416A. Since they are in series, the same current flows through all of them.
Two ways to think about it:
(1) If you think of 3 cells as just three smaller 18650s (it really is just three smaller LiPos - 3S is how they're arranged), that'll give you an idea. 3-cell 900 mAh oughta charge about the same as one 2700 mAh 18650. (Although, the higher voltage does mean much lower resistive losses, but that's more significant for discharge than charge.)
(2) Work out the watt-hours. If you do this, you can directly compare different batteries of different types as well. Say you have a 3-cell 900 mAh (0.9 Amp-hour) LiPo. LiPo has nominal voltage 3.7V (LiFePO4 batteries are 3.3V), so 0.9 Ah*3.7V = 3.33 (A*V)h = 3.33 Wh. Each cell will give you 3.33 Watt-hours. Three of them, 9.99 Watt-hours. 5 Watt charge speed, 9.99 Wh/5 W is about two hours. EScribe has a calculator for this in Mod->Battery btw. [More advantages of watt-hours instead of amps: If you know you vape at 20W, you know a 10Wh battery'll last you about half an hour continuous, and vaping plugged into a 5W charger, the battery won't be going down as long as you're vaping less than 25% of the time. I wish they sold batteries by Wh instead of mAh. It would make everything easier.]
The actual current that this corresponds to on the battery depends on its current state of charge. At 9V, 5W/9V=0.555A, while at 12.6V, 0.416A. Since they are in series, the same current flows through all of them.
Two ways to think about it:
(1) If you think of 3 cells as just three smaller 18650s (it really is just three smaller LiPos - 3S is how they're arranged), that'll give you an idea. 3-cell 900 mAh oughta charge about the same as one 2700 mAh 18650. (Although, the higher voltage does mean much lower resistive losses, but that's more significant for discharge than charge.)
(2) Work out the watt-hours. If you do this, you can directly compare different batteries of different types as well. Say you have a 3-cell 900 mAh (0.9 Amp-hour) LiPo. LiPo has nominal voltage 3.7V (LiFePO4 batteries are 3.3V), so 0.9 Ah*3.7V = 3.33 (A*V)h = 3.33 Wh. Each cell will give you 3.33 Watt-hours. Three of them, 9.99 Watt-hours. 5 Watt charge speed, 9.99 Wh/5 W is about two hours. EScribe has a calculator for this in Mod->Battery btw. [More advantages of watt-hours instead of amps: If you know you vape at 20W, you know a 10Wh battery'll last you about half an hour continuous, and vaping plugged into a 5W charger, the battery won't be going down as long as you're vaping less than 25% of the time. I wish they sold batteries by Wh instead of mAh. It would make everything easier.]
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I don't remember if this is something I set in Escribe, but when my Opus charges, it reads the amps it is charging at. One of my fancy phone chargers had it reading a 1.5 A, but the charger that I generally use runs at 1A. I think 1A charges it decently fast actually.
I've noticed that as it is almost fully charged or is fully charged, it slowly drops the As its running at to like .01 to protect the battery, so it's nice being able to leave it charging over night and not worry about it.
I've noticed that as it is almost fully charged or is fully charged, it slowly drops the As its running at to like .01 to protect the battery, so it's nice being able to leave it charging over night and not worry about it.
I'll never criticize somebody for using chinese mods. I did it myself. Kangxin got me into TC and I'm still using it but compared to an authentic DNA40 it's poor.Life is too short to vape on cheap chinese mods
I'm actually surprised that the DNA200 chip is so cheap. Especially compared to the DNA40.
1amp total.
There's better ways to get a new car.I don't leave my mods in the car, but my Garmin GPS (LiPo) has never left the car.
Sometimes on the dash, in direct sun. Has never exploded. Has to get to 140 in a closed up car, down here.
I don't know
It is 1amp into the battery. If the battery is 3S (3 cells), that would be 333ma to each cell.
Easiest way would be to multiply the mah rating of the battery by the cells (3s = 3) and use that number to calculate the charging time.
My 1300mah battery is 3900mah total for all 3 cells. With 1amp charging, it takes just under 4 hrs to charge from empty.
I have that set for my charging display too. The DNA200 cannot charge over 1amp.
I'm not criticizing anyone. Just stating a fact that chinese chips are no where near as good or accurate as an Evolv chip. DNA40 mods are now at the $100 price point and really hard to justify getting a $40-$50 mod that doesn't last more than a couple of months.
People like pbusardo have already proven in several reviews that the top yihi chips are very very near to evolv and the difference at this point is so little. sure he is using a "primitive" way of sensing temperature(with a temperature probe inside the coil) but if every test is done in the same exact way then you can still tell the difference. Which is very little.
Yihi chips are as good as evolv chips in temperature control. The DNA 200 has more power and more options because of escribe but this "china can't do temperature control right" argument is old and at this point wrong. hell even devices like the sig 150 and IPV4 in wattage mode are almost spot on. Not AS accurate as a evolv but nothing too bad.
I can't wait for pbusardo to finally review the DNA 200 so we get numbers and temperature readings.
Yihi chips are as good as evolv chips in temperature control. The DNA 200 has more power and more options because of escribe but this "china can't do temperature control right" argument is old and at this point wrong. hell even devices like the sig 150 and IPV4 in wattage mode are almost spot on. Not AS accurate as a evolv but nothing too bad.
I can't wait for pbusardo to finally review the DNA 200 so we get numbers and temperature readings.
What is the time constant of such a temperature probe? I'd expect it to be quite slow. You will only see average not instantaneous temperature. If something's pulsing that is specifically what such a test would hide. While you're busy embalming your lungs I hope you remember formaldehyde production isn't about average temperature.
Just realized I might have lied. I'm not sure if the Opus was charging at 1.5 A. I'll have to try that charger again to see if I was seeing things.
If all you are counting is accuracy of TC, perhaps. But I count:
-warranty
-customizing/tweaking ability
-monitoring
-form factor of chip
-availability of the developers for problem solving/product expansion
-solder points for off board buttons
-price
Many of these are "modder's" issues, but they are what is important to me. The DNA200 seems generations ahead of anything else.
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