The Kanthal/ni200 wire? I don't have an ultrasonic cleaner - do you have a recommendation for one?
*GEM: A new RTA by MarkBugs
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Mark might be a metal magician, but batteries are batteries. Also, the DNA200 chip is much bigger than the DNA 40, so you can cut down on height and width only so much. About the only real advantage for MB I see here is that with the hybrid connector, as one can either save space or use a bigger battery compared to a 510 connector.
This is the one I bought, works fine:
Amazon.com - Magnasonic Professional Ultrasonic Polishing Jewelry Cleaner with Digital Timer for Cleaning Eyeglasses, Watches, Rings, Necklaces, Coins, Razors, Dentures, Combs, Tools, Parts, Instruments (MGUC500) - Electronics Cleaning Products
I prefer being able to set the cleaning time, but this saves you $10 if 3min fixed cleaning time is acceptable:
Amazon.com: Magnasonic Professional Ultrasonic Polishing Jewelry Cleaner Machine for Cleaning Eyeglasses, Watches, Rings, Necklaces, Coins, Razors, Dentures, Combs, Tools, Parts, Instruments (CD2800): Electronics
Also works great for cleaning atomizers.
DNA200 is not just about 200 ~ there's a whole lot of other goodies in it ~ and a few more to be added
Ok, so I just put (hot) water in this with dawn soap and use it to clean my coil wire and the atomizer? Sorry, haven't used an ultrasonic cleaner before.
Someone once inquired about this before, so this was the reply I sent by pm:
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I just use hot water and a couple drops of dish soap. I also make sure that nothing will rub up against each other if I can, particular nice metal stuff. I also use the plastic tray, as I've read it's best not to have something resting on the metal bottom. Always check for anything small that may have shaken loose, this happens sometimes with post screws or o-rings.
This is the drying mat I use for my attys, just fyi:
Amazon.com: OXO Good Grips Silicone Stemware Drying Mat: Dish Racks: Kitchen & Dining
Nothing special about it, except that there are no holes for things to get lost through and it doesn't take a lot of space and can easily be put away.
Otherwise, don't use you an alcohol soak or anything else acidic or alkaline, because if you forget your attys in their long enough (e.g., overnight) it can erode the chromium oxide layer.
I use the ultrasonic to pretty much clean all my atomizers and wire. Depending on how dirty it is, I may only give it a 3 minute clean or something longer.
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One other thing I'll add since then is that I noticed the center of the tray has finer holes than the outer section, so anything involving tiny screws or parts goes there. I also have a fine screen debris catcher in my sink, not that I bought it for this, but it makes sure nothing goes down the drain.
Thank you - that is extremely helpful. Appreciate the links - Amazon loves me.Someone once inquired about this before, so this was the reply I sent by pm:
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I just use hot water and a couple drops of dish soap. I also make sure that nothing will rub up against each other if I can, particular nice metal stuff. I also use the plastic tray, as I've read it's best not to have something resting on the metal bottom. Always check for anything small that may have shaken loose, this happens sometimes with post screws or o-rings.
This is the drying mat I use for my attys, just fyi:
Amazon.com: OXO Good Grips Silicone Stemware Drying Mat: Dish Racks: Kitchen & Dining
Nothing special about it, except that there are no holes for things to get lost through and it doesn't take a lot of space and can easily be put away.
Otherwise, don't use you an alcohol soak or anything else acidic or alkaline, because if you forget your attys in their long enough (e.g., overnight) it can erode the chromium oxide layer.
I use the ultrasonic to pretty much clean all my atomizers and wire. Depending on how dirty it is, I may only give it a 3 minute clean or something longer.
---
One other thing I'll add since then is that I noticed the center of the tray has finer holes than the outer section, so anything involving tiny screws or parts goes there. I also have a fine screen debris catcher in my sink, not that I bought it for this, but it makes sure nothing goes down the drain.
Still trying to tune my GEM. The flavor isn't as great as I was expecting, and I noticed air bubbles only come out of one hole. I've tried rewicking, no change. It also gets pretty hot and often sizzles after firing. The coil dry burns evenly. Its on my WAEII 28g kanthal 8 wraps, 1.5 ohm, 12W.
Any ideas before I tear the whole tank down and start from scratch?
Any ideas before I tear the whole tank down and start from scratch?
Anybody using GEM with nickel spaced builds? I am curious on two points. First, are there any problems about resistance on nickel build. Second, how many wraps max possible for spaced coils because of the tiny space for coils in GEM?
Nickel is fine, so long as you don't allow too much e-residue to build up on the build deck/base plate interface. I typically use 4~5 wraps at 28awg on a 2.5mm coil.
I'm going to judge him for using mesh, until at least Qorax posts his mesh-building video for the Gem like he promised.
Hey everyone. I just picked up this RTA and have been very pleased with it so far. My only confusion to this point is the best way to drain the tank if one wants to replace the current juice contents with something else. Best way I've found so far is to remove the filling top cap entirely but this has been somewhat messy. Any tips?
Unscrew the top cap, turn upside down into a shot glass (happens to be 30 ml). That way when you use the syringe, to return joose to a bottle, you'll get every drop...wasting nothing.
Not surprising. I love my GEM!!
Finally got the technique of wicking so that it doesn't leak after filling.
Finally got the technique of wicking so that it doesn't leak after filling.
This is what I do (use a syringe) to remove the juice. It is a 5ml - the same one that I use to fill the Gem.
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