DNA 200 Watt

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retird

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Honestly. I just put it on and you are going to think I am a bit of a idiot because I thought it was important. I mean everybody gives TC without ohm lock alot of flack so my automatic reaction is to put ohm lock on.

No biggy.... normal thoughts since so much has been touted about atty lock. It's an option that some use and others don't. I've never used atty lock on any dna as refinement works great with a proper coil build and solid connections. Just do what works for you.

Currently I am using an Atlantis tank with factory Ni200 coil head 0.15 ohm and vaping at 400F@25 watts with pre-heat set to 50 watts and punch set to 5. Solid as a rock...
 

VapingBad

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Mmm. Are there really that many issues of that nature?

Tried the velocity again. didn't use the ohm lock and now it came out to a 0.07 on the mod.

Still find it weird how 470 needs a constant 90 watts apparently to maintain the temperature. This is without it vaping.

I mean I could get 20 gauge glowing red with 120 watts now the mod is telling me that 30 and 28 gauge twisted needs pretty much 100 watts to maintain the temperature?
Sounds wrong with these coils on a velocity it took all my lung power to get it to drop below 400 F @ 100W
20150730_002743_Copy.jpg

Clapton 0.2 mm around 0.3 mm Ni200 (home made). 7 over 6 wraps on an 3.2 mm former, in a FT Velocity comes out at 0.065 ohm on the DNA200.

vel_dm.jpg


I am no cloud chaser, but I got it below 400 F for about a second, pre-heat was @ 200 W BTW
 

BudmanNC

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I got the HANA MODZ 200 today, size wise its the same dimensions as the VS RDNA40 just a 1/2 inch taller. Feels real nice in the hand. Very light. This is my first HANA and I'm quite impressed. The + and - buttons do spin.

How is the battery connected? It looks like is has connectors so the battery can be swapped.
2upzgon.jpg

23k9hr9.jpg

2mynupe.jpg

122hyq0.jpg
 

KTMRider

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LOL, well, if they are marked and everything can go wonky... yes it bothers me. If they are just buttons with no markings ON them... I don't care if they spin 100's of times a minute while I use it.

I mean its a 200 dollar piece of equipment... you can get wonky looking buttons on any sub 50 dollar Chinese mod.
I set my buttons to line up correctly when I got it this afternoon and then forgot about it. I've been vaping it for a few hours and didn't even look at the buttons until now and they're exactly where I put them. So, yes they spin but not on their own and really not much when in use.

I love the size and the ribs on the sides help with grip. I'm happy with it.
 

Jeremy Schreiber

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Probably beating a dead horse, but is the ohm lock necessary? I read in the atomizer analyzer that I should not use it unless the atomizer itself is not stable or something similar to that. Since reading that I have not used lock and everything has been working great.

Budman, can you post a few more pictures please? Similar to the Opus, actual pictures make it look a lot better than it does than the manufacturer's pictures.
 

VapingBad

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Probably beating a dead horse, but is the ohm lock necessary? I read in the atomizer analyzer that I should not use it unless the atomizer itself is not stable or something similar to that. Since reading that I have not used lock and everything has been working great.

Budman, can you post a few more pictures please? Similar to the Opus, actual pictures make it look a lot better than it does than the manufacturer's pictures.

It is good if you have at build or two (upto 8) that are consistent (ADV fav build kinda thing) then you can use it on a profile so you can change atties when they are hot.
 
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BudmanNC

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Probably beating a dead horse, but is the ohm lock necessary? I read in the atomizer analyzer that I should not use it unless the atomizer itself is not stable or something similar to that. Since reading that I have not used lock and everything has been working great.

Budman, can you post a few more pictures please? Similar to the Opus, actual pictures make it look a lot better than it does than the manufacturer's pictures.
zinc posted those. I was asking zinc a question. I was unsuccessful in quoting him without including the pictures in the quote.
 

tchavei

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How is the battery connected? It looks like is has connectors so the battery can be swapped.
2upzgon.jpg

23k9hr9.jpg

2mynupe.jpg

122hyq0.jpg
Since I consider myself ignorant when it comes to vaping related electronics, can somebody explain to me how a JST - RCY connector (judging by the pics) rated at 3 amps continuous (although people have reported they can withstand around 7 amps during short periods) can cope with the current a 200W mod requires?

Yes, many 3S lipos come with those connectors but that doesn't make it right. In RC, we usually cut them off and solder something decent but maybe it's OK in a mod?

Regards
Tony

Sent from my keyboard through my phone or something like that.
 

Flavored

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Sure can't read either of our theories from the instruction document. If it is 1 amp @ the 11 - 12V, then that would fit my notion for the series battery connection.

Might be time for me to quit lurking @ the eVolv forum.
@KTMRider - according to VapingBad (whom I presume is the same one here) in the early adopters place, the 1A is an input limitation at 5V for charging. After the upconversion, I guess that's less than a half amp @ 11V for charging the series cells.
 

Darkly spectr

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Since I consider myself ignorant when it comes to vaping related electronics, can somebody explain to me how a JST - RCY connector (judging by the pics) rated at 3 amps continuous (although people have reported they can withstand around 7 amps during short periods) can cope with the current a 200W mod requires?

Yes, many 3S lipos come with those connectors but that doesn't make it right. In RC, we usually cut them off and solder something decent but maybe it's OK in a mod?

Regards
Tony

Sent from my keyboard through my phone or something like that.
oh? wow if that is true and those connectors start getting damaged from overheating from chainvaping at like 15-20 amps hana is going to get in serious trouble
 

KTMRider

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Since I consider myself ignorant when it comes to vaping related electronics, can somebody explain to me how a JST - RCY connector (judging by the pics) rated at 3 amps continuous (although people have reported they can withstand around 7 amps during short periods) can cope with the current a 200W mod requires?

Yes, many 3S lipos come with those connectors but that doesn't make it right. In RC, we usually cut them off and solder something decent but maybe it's OK in a mod?

Regards
Tony

Sent from my keyboard through my phone or something like that.
I'll be replacing mine with 2mm bullet connectors.
 
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Spirometry

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Enclosure
Firebutton and switches if you don't want to use the onboard switches
DNA200 bezel / holder / cradle if you don't use a DNA200-ready enclosure
510 connector (i.e. Fat Daddy Vapes or Varitube)
Batteries (2S or 3S LiPo, 3x 18650 [2 already supported or just the 2S LiPos?])
wires
heatshrink
soldering stuff
time and patience.

Did I forget something?

EDIT:
And of course the DNA200 chip :lol:

Add a replacement screen to the list. For when your test fitting a dozen times and the zif socket pops open sending the screen crashing to the floor.:(

Oh well, looks like another week before my mod is done. I really didn't care for the first fire button, so I ordered a new one and 2 screens.
 
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Spirometry

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It's possible to solder the lipo's balance charger directly to the board eliminating the need for connectors.

Quick question. how do you change between presets on the mod? I only found ohm lock, powerlock, going into temp or out.

I am going with no connectors.

IMAG0098.jpg
 

jfb7

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Darkly spectr, make sure your two coils have exactly matched resistance. If they are different, one coil is going to get hotter than the other, while the DNA is seeing a resistance from the combinaton of the two. Dual coils are harder in TC because they really need to match for it to work well.

Jeremy, Ohm lock is not necessary. If your 510 is stable you shouldn't encounter any problems with it off. If it's unstable, I don't know that telling the DNA the resistance hasn't changed is necessarily better -- the resistance *has* changed. And if it's not unstable, why use it...

You can use one-profile-per-atomizer without Ohm lock as well. Mainly, with Ohm lock on, it widens the range it will just assume it's the old coil to 25% resistance difference. So it will ask NEW COIL? less. Ohm lock basically assumes you are not switching the coil without unlocking it.
 
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