SXmini M Class (TEMP CONTROL)

[Quantum Mech]

Is it possible that Ti coils in the lower range and thus closer to that of Ni200 builds, say 0.05-0.2 ohms, would perform better in Ni mode? And then the higher-ohmed more comfortable Ti coils which we have assumed to be more like say, 0.2-.04 ohms work better in Ti mode? And all this because of the various differences and similarities between the TCR curves of the two wire types in those two resistance ranges? Because it sure seems that way to me after 1 week of wrestling with floating temp limits of the SXM in Ti mode when using dual coils down to around 0.15 ohms cold resistance. That is to say: I set it to happily chugging away 430F on Day 1, but soon thereafter have to raise or lower that limit in order to avoid overheating juice or else keep the thing from rattlesnaking all over the place before I even get a hint of flavor.

Just coincidental I think

I have it working at lower ohms so do others

The suggested build quoted somewhere in this thread by YiHi was 0.30ohm for Ti

I have built a variety of coils at diff resistances and all perform similar

Your need to adjust TP after working ok suggests something up with the build or attie mate

Have myself on occasion had to retighten the legs after working ok for hours

Also used a kayfun V4 with no issues, next build give me so much agro I stuck the K4 in the unusable for TP draw

 

[2legsshrt]

Well I did an experiment and wrapped an 8wrap 26awg 3mm contact coil on my STM came out at .43. It was extremely stable on Ti mode at 420 12-14J, tried my 5 wrap spaced and on Ti mode was all over the place up to 40 degrees variation. Had to go to 460 with 12-14J to get it to stablize but it did and was pretty good. The flavor wasn't quite as good with my contact coil although it wasn't bad. I pulsed it and used the screwdriver method to get it to get a low glow from the inside out. The wire turned gold towards the middle to a blueish on the edges. Like I say it was very stable at 420 12J and a decent vape. Much easier coil to build and place. I may try it again but I changed back to my 5 wrap spaced at 260 12J and better flavor I think. When you start doing a lot of vaping it gets kinda hard to tell but I may try it again. The .43 definately made a difference 420 is a pretty good temp and as long as I kept the J fairly low it hit temp pretty quick and TP was between 418-428 not bad. I think YiHi needs to get off their ... and fix this but for now when using my .28 coils at 260 12J I'm satisfied good vape Ni mode.

 

[2legsshrt]

QM not sure what temp you are running at to get the lower ohm builds to work. Like I said the lower ohm build for me will stablize but at a considerably higher temp then should be required. I think you can go either way and get the same sort of vape either way off low on Ni mode or way off high on Ti mode unless you build .4 and above then it seems to be pretty accurate. I was pleasantly surprised by the contact coil. Wraps just like Kanthal on the coil master and very easy to place. I pulsed it at 7w and just enough to get a very low glow. Like I say I may try it again with one of the flavors I use the most God knows I have enough STM's to do one of each then I can give it a good comparison. .43 would be even easier to hit with 29awg.

 

[2legsshrt]

I also noticed that you have to keep the J down to get it to stabilize. If you crank it up too much you start getting the rattlesnaking. Just use enough for it to hit temp and the Ti wire seems to hit temp at a lower setting then you would think on Ti mode. Even at 460 in Ti mode it only took 12-14 with a .28 coil. And also the same to hit 420 with a .43 coil. Should be easier on the battery too.

 

[TKS]

Need some help here guys. My Kayfun V4 has a nickel build of 28g 3mm diameter 6wraps about 0.10ohm. Initial resistance lock on M class shows 0.12ohm, however after few vapes at 380F, 15J the temperature shows and stuck at 32F (not 320F). The vape became warmer and less flavor. I let it cool down about 10min and reset resistance but it started jump around 0.19-0.41ohm each time I try to lock it and it wouldn't go back to 0.12ohm. I put this K4 on my Evic VT and it constantly shows 0.16ohm with no problem.

So I clean up M class 510 connection thinking there is some problem with it. But it doesn't make any difference. I tried this K4 on my friends brand new M class (preloaded with V2.2) and it locks constantly at 0.12ohm and Vape with no problems like what I faced.

To test if my M class is faulty I screw on my STM with a pretty similar nickel build and it locks at 0.09ohm each time, no jumping. Evic shows 0.10ohm. So I am going clueless now. I can't use my K4 on M class anymore.

My M class has a jumping ohm with Kanthal build both on my STM and K4 with a rather huge jump on 28g but when I use 24g the jump is narrower like 0.01-0.03ohm. So I was thinking maybe it's the cheap quality of Kanthal that I have in hand. There wasn't any problem with any nickel build until the above mentioned starts to give me a real headache.

Btw I have upgrade the firmware from V1.4 to V2.2. I didn't pay much attention to these resistance checking back then when I was on V1.4 though. And yes the connection of the build is secure as I am aware jumping ohm is caused by loose connection.

Any advise would be very very much appreciated. Thank you guys.



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It won't work with temp control. The internal spring creates too muh of a unstable connection for the accuracy temp control requires. Steam tuners have a solid piece that replaces the spring with like a little piece of metal that makes a connection when you fully own the liquid control. After I got that, temp control worked fine.

 

[mr.fabe]

Need some help here guys. My Kayfun V4 has a nickel build of 28g 3mm diameter 6wraps about 0.10ohm. Initial resistance lock on M class shows 0.12ohm, however after few vapes at 380F, 15J the temperature shows and stuck at 32F (not 320F). The vape became warmer and less flavor. I let it cool down about 10min and reset resistance but it started jump around 0.19-0.41ohm each time I try to lock it and it wouldn't go back to 0.12ohm. I put this K4 on my Evic VT and it constantly shows 0.16ohm with no problem.

So I clean up M class 510 connection thinking there is some problem with it. But it doesn't make any difference. I tried this K4 on my friends brand new M class (preloaded with V2.2) and it locks constantly at 0.12ohm and Vape with no problems like what I faced.

To test if my M class is faulty I screw on my STM with a pretty similar nickel build and it locks at 0.09ohm each time, no jumping. Evic shows 0.10ohm. So I am going clueless now. I can't use my K4 on M class anymore.

My M class has a jumping ohm with Kanthal build both on my STM and K4 with a rather huge jump on 28g but when I use 24g the jump is narrower like 0.01-0.03ohm. So I was thinking maybe it's the cheap quality of Kanthal that I have in hand. There wasn't any problem with any nickel build until the above mentioned starts to give me a real headache.

Btw I have upgrade the firmware from V1.4 to V2.2. I didn't pay much attention to these resistance checking back then when I was on V1.4 though. And yes the connection of the build is secure as I am aware jumping ohm is caused by loose connection.

Any advise would be very very much appreciated. Thank you guys.



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It could be an issue with the spring contact that many kf v4 users have experienced when building with ni200. If the spring were an issue, you would have major fluctuations in ohm reading on the same mod. You can try stretching the spring, changing the spring or you can look into this as a possible solution...

Kayfun V4 "Spring Update" - Accessories - SteamTuners P.C.

I'm assuming your securing the leads when you attach your coils. That is one of the main causes of ohm jumping in any atty and is even more important if your using nickel.

Good luck!

Sorry.. I just read @TKS reply before posting some of the same solutions...

 

[SX_Vaper]

I know that there have been some that made the K4 work with TC, but it is also has been identified as very problematic and not recommended for TC. Probably related to internal resistance stability.

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Oh really. Hmm thanks for the info I shall use Kanthal then.


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[SX_Vaper]

It won't work with temp control. The internal spring creates too muh of a unstable connection for the accuracy temp control requires. Steam tuners have a solid piece that replaces the spring with like a little piece of metal that makes a connection when you fully own the liquid control. After I got that, temp control worked fine.

Mind sharing where can I get that solid piece thingy pls?

Edited: got the links from another member here. Thx.


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[Vlad1]

Mind sharing where can I get that solid piece thingy pls?

Edited: got the links from another member here. Thx.


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Search back through this thread @PapaPro seemed to spend a week or more trying to get a consistent resistance on the K4 and I think he did in the end. Should be a post from him here about what it was that fixed it for him.

 

[SX_Vaper]

Damn 28g 6wraps 3.0mm at 0.12ohm and its jumping around up to 2.06ohm. I starts to hate Kayfun on this but I like its flavor!


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[jazzvaper]

Damn 28g 6wraps 3.0mm at 0.12ohm and its jumping around up to 2.06ohm. I starts to hate Kayfun on this but I like its flavor!


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Tighten up your 510 pin. If that doesn't help, check that the Juice Control is moving smoothly DOWN. If you still have varying resistance make sure that part # 9 is snug. (Refer to the assembly diagram that ships with the SM authentic.)

I can guarantee it is not the spring (if you have the gold version installed). I am running two K4's, at this very moment, with NO variation in resistance, as true for many months now.

 

[JimScotty0]

QM not sure what temp you are running at to get the lower ohm builds to work. Like I said the lower ohm build for me will stablize but at a considerably higher temp then should be required. I think you can go either way and get the same sort of vape either way off low on Ni mode or way off high on Ti mode unless you build .4 and above then it seems to be pretty accurate. I was pleasantly surprised by the contact coil. Wraps just like Kanthal on the coil master and very easy to place. I pulsed it at 7w and just enough to get a very low glow. Like I say I may try it again with one of the flavors I use the most God knows I have enough STM's to do one of each then I can give it a good comparison. .43 would be even easier to hit with 29awg.

My dual coil Zephyrus is around .123 ohms and very stable in Ti mode. I dropped down my temp today from 510F to 485F and it is still producing a very warm vape with flavor and clouds.

 

[mr.fabe]

Tighten up your 510 pin. If that doesn't help, check that the Juice Control is moving smoothly DOWN. If you still have varying resistance make sure that part # 9 is snug. (Refer to the assembly diagram that ships with the SM authentic.)

I can guarantee it is not the spring (if you have the gold version installed). I am running two K4's, at this very moment, with NO variation in resistance, as true for many months now.

I run ni200 with mine as well with no issues with fluctuating ohms by sanding and stretching my spring.

 

[SX_Vaper]

Tighten up your 510 pin. If that doesn't help, check that the Juice Control is moving smoothly DOWN. If you still have varying resistance make sure that part # 9 is snug. (Refer to the assembly diagram that ships with the SM authentic.)

I can guarantee it is not the spring (if you have the gold version installed). I am running two K4's, at this very moment, with NO variation in resistance, as true for many months now.

I have already tightened part #9 few weeks back. Now I just tighten the 510 pin and it locks perfectly to 1.45-1.46ohm. I really didn't know that this 510 screw needs to be tightened so far down.

Shall try on nickel after this coil burn up. Thank you JazzVaper. U bring life back to my K4. I m sure there are many vapers like me so hate the problems on K4 and yet so desperate for the flavor that it gives!

Thank you guys. U all have been so helpful. Just a simple touch up fix up my face for the day![emoji51]


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[Quantum Mech]

Damn 28g 6wraps 3.0mm at 0.12ohm and its jumping around up to 2.06ohm. I starts to hate Kayfun on this but I like its flavor!


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I got the steam tuners upgrade which worked ok at first

Once I had topped up my juice a couple of times, condensation got on the mating services and took me back to square one

The gold springs seem to work better and for longer

 

[TKS]

I got the steam tuners upgrade which worked ok at first

Once I had topped up my juice a couple of times, condensation got on the mating services and took me back to square one

The gold springs seem to work better and for longer

Yeah the little metal piece didn't allow full sealing of the section

 

[jurdanas]

It's coming Ti to SX350J-chip: YiHi SX350J Ti wire 20150703-test version V2.23 [2015-07-31 09:05:47]
Download-yihiecigar,sx350,Yihi SX350,dna30 30W chip,SX350 35W chip Manufacturers & Suppliers - Dongguan Yihi Electronic Co.,Limited - Page 1
The update came out.

 

[mr.fabe]

It's coming Ti to SX350J-chip: YiHi SX350J Ti wire 20150703-test version V2.23 [2015-07-31 09:05:47]
Download-yihiecigar,sx350,Yihi SX350,dna30 30W chip,SX350 35W chip Manufacturers & Suppliers - Dongguan Yihi Electronic Co.,Limited - Page 1
The update came out.

This has nothing to do with the SX Mini M for those of you who just received your units. Use this link if you want to try the test version of the software.

http://www.yihisxmini.com/download/...-0957_V2.23-test-version-upgrade-firmware.rar

This is only for other units that have the SX350J chipset. Posting this in the SX Mini M group may confuse new owners of this unit.

 

[jurdanas]

Well, thank you . Sorry.

 

[mr.fabe]

Well, thank you . Sorry.

No worries.. it's great news for those who have SX350J chipset and have been waiting anxiously for this firmware update.