Rayon wick, better flow, flavor, saturation and Nic Hit!

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cindycated

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Is there any specific rayon that you all find best? Or any chance someone could rank them from best to worst?
rayon sources, where to buy:

I haven't tried a lot of these, but just going by memory:
  • DM balls ("Slavkov's Balls" :laugh: ) available only in Eastern Europe
  • Tidi balls TIDI Cotton and Rayon Balls - MedSupplier.com (medium size, right guys?)
  • Delasco balls Delasco - Rayon Balls
  • Kotex U Sleek (tampons)
  • Graham's Cellucotton [HASHTAG]#44130[/HASHTAG] (40ft), 44060 (500ft), 44043 (3lbs = 900+ft), 44040 (1200 ft). 44060 & 44043 available at most Sally's Beauty Supply stores.
 
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TruSound

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Graham's Cellucotton is the only one I've tried, it vapes flawlessly so no need to try anything else for me, just remember to wick very snug, even if you think you've used to much you likely haven't, I've never had a dry hit in any of my 5 Kayfuns.
 

TrollDragon

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I've been thinking about ribbon wire (haha for awhile now), at least for atties with post holes (I always end up cutting the wire). What do you guys think, in terms of flavor and longevity?
I have 0.5mm x 0.1mm ribbon Kanthal in my Origenny, Nextgen and Sat22. The Origenny is a 2.5mm Ekowool wick with a short SS mesh tube inside it at the top. The mesh tube gives rigidity to the Ekowool to wrap the ribbon around it. This wick has amazing flavor and has been in there for 2 months now. Just dry burn and rinse when you need to clean.

In the Nextgen I have the SS mesh wick with a short piece of Ekowool at the top, then wrapped in ribbon. The Nextgen is short city otherwise but the EOM build (Eko over Mesh) is the easiest way to get it working quickly. We were told by EDO in the Nextgen thread that if you use a Nickel Ribbon or Nickel wire build over the mesh, you will not get any hot spots at all and the setup is literally a few minutes. I don't have any TC APV's so I have not done it.

The Sat22 is a ribbon over mesh standard genny build, using the poke and prod method to get rid of hotspots. There is not enough room on the deck for an EOM build otherwise it would have one too.


I have played with ribbon on Rayon in kayfun builds and it is a total PiTA to get wick through it. The FeV is a lot easier to build with Ribbon since the deck is so accessible and basically the wick just pokes out both sides. I would just love to have a Ribbon build in the Rose, but wicking that with Rayon would be next to impossible. You would have to wrap the wick before hand and then try to install that in the little cup, frustration to the Max.

I find there is more surface area with Ribbon which is why I like it for a spaced coil instead of regular wire. Give it a go and see how it works for you. ;)
 

cindycated

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I have 0.5mm x 0.1mm ribbon Kanthal in my Origenny, Nextgen and Sat22. The Origenny is a 2.5mm Ekowool wick with a short SS mesh tube inside it at the top. The mesh tube gives rigidity to the Ekowool to wrap the ribbon around it. This wick has amazing flavor and has been in there for 2 months now. Just dry burn and rinse when you need to clean.

In the Nextgen I have the SS mesh wick with a short piece of Ekowool at the top, then wrapped in ribbon. The Nextgen is short city otherwise but the EOM build (Eko over Mesh) is the easiest way to get it working quickly. We were told by EDO in the Nextgen thread that if you use a Nickel Ribbon or Nickel wire build over the mesh, you will not get any hot spots at all and the setup is literally a few minutes. I don't have any TC APV's so I have not done it.

The Sat22 is a ribbon over mesh standard genny build, using the poke and prod method to get rid of hotspots. There is not enough room on the deck for an EOM build otherwise it would have one too.


I have played with ribbon on Rayon in Kayfun builds and it is a total PiTA to get wick through it. The FeV is a lot easier to build with Ribbon since the deck is so accessible and basically the wick just pokes out both sides. I would just love to have a Ribbon build in the Rose, but wicking that with Rayon would be next to impossible. You would have to wrap the wick before hand and then try to install that in the little cup, frustration to the Max.

I find there is more surface area with Ribbon which is why I like it for a spaced coil instead of regular wire. Give it a go and see how it works for you. ;)
Thanks! I just didn't wanna end up with a spool of wire that I only used a foot of. :facepalm: :laugh: I thought ribbon would've been easier to wick, since it creates more of a tube effect to get the wick through. :blink:

I've been meaning to try mesh too. Disgusting that I haven't yet, considering all the gennies I have. Wanna try the "Nikki Wick," where you have a mesh straw with a thin core of some material (like a rayon burrito) that pokes out of the bottom to help prop the mesh up.
 

TrollDragon

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Thanks! I just didn't wanna end up with a spool of wire that I only used a foot of. :facepalm: :laugh: I thought ribbon would've been easier to wick, since it creates more of a tube effect to get the wick through. :blink:

I've been meaning to try mesh too. Disgusting that I haven't yet, considering all the gennies I have. Wanna try the "Nikki Wick," where you have a mesh straw with a thin core of some material (like a rayon burrito) that pokes out of the bottom to help prop the mesh up.
The 0.5 mm is a decent width but you might want to look into 0.8mm or even 1mm if you can find it. I didn't find it easier to pull wick through since it has an edge for the Rayon to get caught up on.

I have not seen the Nikki Wick, but I have seen mesh wicks wrapped with a thin layer of KGD on the Origen FB group. This makes no sense to me as the main feature of mesh is Massive Flavor, the flavor you get from your juice with mesh is unlike any other wicking material. The second feature of it is an easy dry burn and quick rinse, so wrapping or putting any combustible inside or around the mesh defeats that purpose. Ekowool over mesh still gives you excellent mesh flavor and prevents the poke and prod after you wrap the coil.

I usually wrap a mesh L wick from 400 or a wick in wick with 200 & 400.
jong yeol Kim has some great mesh wicking videos, that dude can build anything. ;)
jong yeol Kim - YouTube
 

cindycated

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The 0.5 mm is a decent width but you might want to look into 0.8mm or even 1mm if you can find it. I didn't find it easier to pull wick through since it has an edge for the Rayon to get caught up on.

I have not seen the Nikki Wick, but I have seen mesh wicks wrapped with a thin layer of KGD on the Origen FB group. This makes no sense to me as the main feature of mesh is Massive Flavor, the flavor you get from your juice with mesh is unlike any other wicking material. The second feature of it is an easy dry burn and quick rinse, so wrapping or putting any combustible inside or around the mesh defeats that purpose. Ekowool over mesh still gives you excellent mesh flavor and prevents the poke and prod after you wrap the coil.

I usually wrap a mesh L wick from 400 or a wick in wick with 200 & 400.
jong yeol Kim has some great mesh wicking videos, that dude can build anything. ;)
jong yeol Kim - YouTube
I love that guy! :thumb: Thanks!
 

Dobo

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Hi gang,

My friend brought a DM balls pack for me from Prague and I intend to rebuild several of my atties tonight.

I only have an experience wicking with Japanese cotton for my daily drivers: Lemos and PhenomenoN's on eVic VT. I usually coil Ti on 2.5 mm rod 7/6 wraps, wick it as snug as possible with cotton, cut the tails, thin it, do two 45 degree cuts, trim it so it just touches the deck and paste it to the base wall. The end result looks something like this:
3GoJRcb.jpg


As I'm in no position to read through the 720 pages of this thread, would anyone please advise me whether I need to change my technique or add anything? Thanks in advance!
 

Johntodd

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I've found that I need more rayon in there than cotton. IOW, what you are used to with cotton will not be enough for rayon. It feels like "too much" rayon, when actually that would be about right. It should be very snug in the coil.

One would never put that much cotton into a wick. So if it feels overstuffed, you're probably on the right track.

Just my .02
 

Dobo

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Works great! Been vaping whole day on it and can't really find major differences between Japanese cotton and DM balls in vape quality. I think the flavor is cleaner, albeit after few puffs, before that there's a strange taste for a while. The main thing I'm interested is how long it will last. With JC I usually changed the wick once in 2-3 days, hope to reach a week with DM, will report later on the longetivity :)

P.S. I also notice less of a spit-back, can't really understand why.

@Dobo , vape it and tell us what it was like , thats the only opinion that counts
 

JeremyR

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So, what's the easiest way to know if what you got in a pill bottle is rayon?

No little knot balls like cotton,

super straight and smooth, wavey crimp. Bottle rayon isn't that shiney really. It's more dry looking in my experience.

No shine like polyester or swirly crimp to fiber.

Burn test a small piece it should burn fast to lighter ash than cotton. Smell like paper/wood/leaves. Not off chemical smells..

The first page of thread I believe I posted the full piece of bottle rayon.

 

JeremyR

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Works great! Been vaping whole day on it and can't really find major differences between Japanese cotton and DM balls in vape quality. I think the flavor is cleaner, albeit after few puffs, before that there's a strange taste for a while. The main thing I'm interested is how long it will last. With JC I usually changed the wick once in 2-3 days, hope to reach a week with DM, will report later on the longetivity :)

P.S. I also notice less of a spit-back, can't really understand why.

Cotton gets me 20ml - rayon gets me 200-300 if done right.

Any questions? Lol
 

JeremyR

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Here's a pic of my PhenomenoNs wicked with DM balls - one is twisted 30 gauge Kanthal and other is 28 gauge Ti.

19662653824_6922048b8e_b.jpg
[/QUOTE]


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Great its working for you! Let it ride. Maybe next time consider and try this.

If that has a small chamber there around the wicks you would benifit further from thinning the tails considerably to allow more juice flow to the main wick in the coil.

You don't need big tails like cotton, you don't have to sponge it. It just flows, even on three little strands of rayon.

Fatter tails can draw juice back from coil. The biggest piece should be up at the coil. All liquid will be draw to the biggest piece. If the tails are bigger than the wick portion you'll actually restrict some of the flow and cause backflow and caramelizing from refiring
 
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Cacique

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It's rayon!
20150804_151110_zpsimk2ncrn.jpg


Got the wicks in really nice and snug. Had to be a little bit careful because the coils were moving a bit. I listened for the squeak and everything. These are 24g, 3mm coils.
20150804_153202_zps4c2zoyxw.jpg

Cut reduced the tails down to about 1/3rd.
20150804_154247_zpsj7pmv12p.jpg

20150804_154541_zpstj0ohfx7.jpg

And here it is after a few drags. .55 dual coils, 24g, 3mm ID, maybe 3.5mm can't remember. Been vaping it at 80w.
20150804_155310_zpssrj0fjgp.jpg


It seems to be working great, but right off the bat I think I wicked it too tight. This is my problem usually. It tastes kind of nutty/woody.

Edit: Got the tuft of rayon from a bottle of MRM Vegan D3 in case anyone was wondering lol.
 

Cacique

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I re-wicked it, making it significantly less dense and didn't roll it in my palms. I also reduced the tails to by around 70-80%. I've only taken a few of hits, tasted the nutty taste in the 2nd hit and the nutty taste after taste is reduced drastically, just a hint. I'll keep this wick for a few hours and try again if I feel the nuttyness is still there.
20150804_182723_zpsi50lxmu9.jpg


Feel free to critique, I'd like to know if there's anything else I can do to improve it.
 
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