Best way to optimize my battery
- Thread starter Ryxguy99
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Kanger Subtank Mini, .5 ohm factory coil, or use the .5 ohm build deck. However, the lower you go in ohms the faster the battery will need recharged.
Wattage determines how quick a battery will drain. It doesn't matter what combination of volts and ohms get you to a specific wattage. 30 watts on a 0.5 ohm coil will drain the battery just as quickly as 30 watts will on a 1.5 ohm coil.
This handy calculator shows that the same wattage arrived at by different volts / amps / resistance combinations results in the same battery drain rate.
Battery drain | Steam Engine | free vaping calculators
I am going to rethink/clarify my answer. With the iStick 30 w and Nautilus (which come in 1.6 or 1.8 ohm coils) you have optimized your battery staying under the 20 w maximum. I would think at 20 watts and those coils you'd be burning them up getting dry hits. However, you are optimized at 20 and under the 20 watts because you have "headroom" on your mod, not pushing it to it's maximum potential 100% of the time. Think of it like the automobile. It can go 100 mph but speed limits are for safety. 100 mph will drink more gas than 55.
However #2. If you get a Kanger Subtank Mini. and use the .5 ohm coils, AND run the mod at it's max of 30 watts it will use up the battery faster. Is it built to run this way? I don't know, I am a believer in "headroom". (your mileage may vary)
Basically, that's not realistic on a Nautilus. 30 watts is just too much for the coils available. A Subtank with the .5 head could use it.
A car's resistance to move through air (aerodynamics) increases as speed rises causing the car to need more power (gas) to traverse the same distance than an identical car that traveled the same distance at a lower rate of speed.
30 watts at the coil is 30 watts at the coil regardless of what combination of volts and ohms gets you there and will drain the battery just as fast whether or not you are using a 0.5 ohm coil or a 2 ohm coil to reach 30 watts. We can't argue with physics.
You can use the battery drain calculator I posted above to verifying this.
Possible? Sure.
If you use a thin wire(like any of the premade heads), it is going to probably pop within a second of using it. If you build it with 22 or 24 gauge wire and just do A LOT of wraps, you can probably do it and it may not even be that bad. It will be so much wire to heat up that it will probably take until next week to get hot, but it should work lol
around a 4mm diameter(about the biggest i can fit in my rda) would be 20 wraps if i used 24 gauge. It would be 11mm long, so it may be possible to try. I am actually kicking the idea around, now. I could even use 26 gauge around a 3mm bit and get it down to a much smaller and more manageable coil. Only problem with that is that I am losing so much metal that would need to be heated up that I don't know if that would cut it.
Well, i just tried it. Curiosity was getting the best of me. I made a 26 gauge coil wrapped around a 3mm bit. I admit, I didn't pay too much attention to what I was doing, so I ended up with a coil that is actually 2.3 ohms. Oops.
Here are pictures:
It is hard to read, but it says 2.3 ohms. Surprisingly, it actually vapes pretty darn good. The flavor is nice, and it actually gives a decent amount of vapor. Not a horribly long ramp up time, either. If you have a spare RDA, I would suggest giving it a try. I am pleasantly surprised at how well it works.
Is that not an I stick 50w? The display sure does look like one, centered and such. The 30w is thinner and the screen is on the side. At 2ohms on the 50w you should be able to hit 10v as I see at 30 you are already at 8.3. Try cranking that up a bit, 10v on 2ohms is lovely on that device
It is a 50w. I just tried what you said(it capped it at 43.4w at 9.9v), and it is actually pretty good. The only concern I have is the coil getting too hot and burning the cotton in the center since it is a fairly long coil. Even at the 30w, the coil didn't take long at all to be glowing bright red when there was no cotton or anything in there. With 43w, i am a bit worried the center of the wick will dry out and give me that awful dry hit. Either way, the experiment was a success.
Edit: OP, if you want something that can take you to a full 30w, you can get an RDA and make a monster coil out of 26 gauge kanthal. It worked pretty well. I wouldn't want to run my device at the edge of its limit all the time, though, so I would stick with something that runs good around 20-25w
I used 30g duals to hit 2ohm. Don't remember the specs, (steam engine it) and it never gave me a dry hit unlinke a sub ohm coil at high wattages would do the same. Now with that being said, my 2ohm build was in a billow rta and it never dry hit. I think that's something you should try out, better battery life, and not to mention the look on someone's face when they try your vape, and then ask the specs, and their mind is blown when they realize "those ain't no sub ohm coilz bruh??.."
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