Mike n Tibs DNA Mods!

[Cotay]

My first dna 200 in the BRD box, Stop working just now? Completely dead nothing works
Guess I'l Email Evolv
I know Cotay posted the same thing today wonder what happened?

It's a total mystery to me. Nothing on the board appears damaged, no shorts, not burnt wires, no tripped fuses, no sign of anything out of the ordinary. It worked fine last night and just died. I tested the battery hoping that was the issue...nope, all 3 cells perfectly balanced. I tested it with a Thunder Power 1350mAh that is known good and I got nothing with that as well..

I did post in the early adopter's forum, but John hasn't really said what to do. Are we supposed to send a separate email requesting warranty replacement?

 

[Tpat591]

My Hana v200 is fixed. I replaced the screen and it's alive again!!!

*Edit*
I left the JST connector on there because I'm lazy. I'll probably get around to replacing it soon but since I don't really vape at crazy wattages, it should be fine for me. I did reverse the + and - buttons because that's the way I like my screen oriented.

Did you put double stick tape at the buttons to stop rotation? What caused the screen to fail? Was it severely crimped or improperly installed when Hana put it together? Did you figure ut the actual gauge of the battery leads going to that JST RCY connector?

 

[Tpat591]

It's a total mystery to me. Nothing on the board appears damaged, no shorts, not burnt wires, no tripped fuses, no sign of anything out of the ordinary. It worked fine last night and just died. I tested the battery hoping that was the issue...nope, all 3 cells perfectly balanced. I tested it with a Thunder Power 1350mAh that is known good and I got nothing with that as well..

I did post in the early adopter's forum, but John hasn't really said what to do. Are we supposed to send a separate email requesting warranty replacement?

Seeing reports on a few different threads of the fuse failing on the board with no visible signs of an issue but if traced with a meter the fuse is responsible. Happened in a number of Opus units and at least 5 home builds done by experienced members who were unlikely to have made rookie mistakes. In most instances all was good and unit just died with no visible cause or event.

John said today:
Off the top of my head, think there are about 350 Opuses out right now, so the mortality rate is still in the single digit percent. Still very concerning. Replacing the fuse isn't hard once the board is out of the case, though.

Shame they did not use a resettable circuit breaker. Darkly Specter recently traced it out with help from John at Evolv in one thread and he was amazed that the fuse did not look tripped, blown or fried in any way.

 

[KTMRider]

It's a total mystery to me. Nothing on the board appears damaged, no shorts, not burnt wires, no tripped fuses, no sign of anything out of the ordinary. It worked fine last night and just died. I tested the battery hoping that was the issue...nope, all 3 cells perfectly balanced. I tested it with a Thunder Power 1350mAh that is known good and I got nothing with that as well..

I did post in the early adopter's forum, but John hasn't really said what to do. Are we supposed to send a separate email requesting warranty replacement?

I pm'd John on the EA forums and he asked for my address and before I knew it I had a replacement DNA200 overnighted to me with a return label.

Did you put double stick tape at the buttons to stop rotation? What caused the screen to fail? Was it severely crimped or improperly installed when Hana put it together? Did you figure ut the actual gauge of the battery leads going to that JST RCY connector?

Nope, it didn't really bother me. The ribbon was pinched, Hana's fault. The wires looked to be 18g so the wires are good, just not the connector.

Here's a few pics.

 

[Tpat591]

I pm'd John on the EA forums and he asked for my address and before I knew it I had a replacement DNA200 overnighted to me with a return label.


Nope, it didn't really bother me. The ribbon was pinched, Hana's fault. The wires looked to be 18g so the wires are good, just not the connector.

Here's a few pics.

Thanks for the update & pics. Think Hana will give you a new display or as I guess you will just be stuck for the replacement cost on a unit that no longer is warranteed?

Glad you managed to get it working! Have my black one now and so far so good. Only have used with low wattage Kanthal so far & will keep it that way till I hear back on a yet to be sent complaint to Hana on deficiencies in their product coming to light in the community.

Look forward to your reports on their reply and intentions toward you. Thanks again.

 

[SlickWilly]

So putting a fold/crease in the screen ribbon causes them to fail? Uh oh...... hope mine holds up...... Well I'm thinking it might be a good idea to get a couple spare screens and some fuses to have on hand. Sounds like Evolv got a few bad fuses, if down the road I have an one fail, I'd rather solder a jumper on it and add an external fuse rather then have to wait for it to come back from Evolv. Any suggestions on fuses, preferably tiny re-settable fuses I could just put heat shrink over?

Cotay and Steamer, have you checked the fuses with a meter?

Tonight I've been running a Kanger ProTank2 with a nickle coil, .o7 ohms cold, .13 to .14 when taking a hit, set at 9-10W & temp set at 430F, been real surprised that it hits as well as it does! Now go ahead.... start the poking

 

[Steamer861]

Upon closer inspection it looks like the fuse Blew ?

 

[KTMRider]

Thanks for the update & pics. Think Hana will give you a new display or as I guess you will just be stuck for the replacement cost on a unit that no longer is warranteed?

Glad you managed to get it working! Have my black one now and so far so good. Only have used with low wattage Kanthal so far & will keep it that way till I hear back on a yet to be sent complaint to Hana on deficiencies in their product coming to light in the community.

Look forward to your reports on their reply and intentions toward you. Thanks again.

I sent them an e-mail thru their support page on Friday. I'll let you guys know what they say. I also posted on the EA forums and John might be sending me a spare display. Either way, I need another screen for my last DNA200 board.

So putting a fold/crease in the screen ribbon causes them to fail? Uh oh...... hope mine holds up...... Well I'm thinking it might be a good idea to get a couple spare screens and some fuses to have on hand. Sounds like Evolv got a few bad fuses, if down the road I have an one fail, I'd rather solder a jumper on it and add an external fuse rather then have to wait for it to come back from Evolv. Any suggestions on fuses, preferably tiny re-settable fuses I could just put heat shrink over?

Cotay and Steamer, have you checked the fuses with a meter?

Tonight I've been running a Kanger ProTank2 with a nickle coil, .o7 ohms cold, .13 to .14 when taking a hit, set at 9-10W & temp set at 430F, been real surprised that it hits as well as it does! Now go ahead.... start the poking

It's not just a fold, it was being pinched between the fire button and the button surround. Constantly pinching it while firing will make the ribbon fail eventually. Mine took about 24 hrs to fail (6ml juice).

Upon closer inspection it looks like the fuse Blew ?

Hard to tell for sure from that pic but yeah.

 

[Cotay]

Upon closer inspection it looks like the fuse Blew ?

Here's mine:

 

[Steamer861]

Here's mine:

Your fuse looks better than mine.It looked like there was a wire sticking rite out the top of my fuse and when I touched it with a small screw driver the top just came rite off. Pretty sure my fuse blew Now why is another Question.
The DNA that blew on me was acting a bit funny,some times it would give a really strong hit like the watts were turned way up.
It wasn't reading any different on screen but some thing was a miss with this one

 

[Cotay]

Your fuse looks better than mine.It looked like there was a wire sticking rite out the top of my fuse and when I touched it with a small screw driver the top just came rite off. Pretty sure my fuse blew Now why is another Question.
The DNA that blew on me was acting a bit funny,some times it would give a really strong hit like the watts were turned way up.
It wasn't reading any different on screen but some thing was a miss with this one

It's really hard to tell, but mine exhibited some very odd behavior after it stopped working. I hadn't vaped on it at all in more than 7 hours and once I tried to fire it, the front of the mod heated up considerably. Once I confirmed it was dead, it took me 20 minutes to get into the box since my kids misplaced my T3 bit. I was quite shocked that the bottom sink on the board was extremely hot, especially since it hadn't been used at all. Once I disconnected the battery, the board cooled down rapidly.

I've gone ahead and submitted a warranty ticket here: Help Desk

 

[Tpat591]

It's really hard to tell, but mine exhibited some very odd behavior after it stopped working. I hadn't vaped on it at all in more than 7 hours and once I tried to fire it, the front of the mod heated up considerably. Once I confirmed it was dead, it took me 20 minutes to get into the box since my kids misplaced my T3 bit. I was quite shocked that the bottom sink on the board was extremely hot, especially since it hadn't been used at all. Once I disconnected the battery, the board cooled down rapidly.

I've gone ahead and submitted a warranty ticket here: Help Desk

Definitely sounds like a much bigger problem than the fuse. They say when the fuse goes, board will still light up and communicate with pc when usb is plugged in. Will read battery cell levels but not the atomizer. Obviously it will not fire & will die again when usb is disconnected.

 

[Steamer861]

Definitely sounds like a much bigger problem than the fuse. They say when the fuse goes, board will still light up and communicate with pc when usb is plugged in. Will read battery cell levels but not the atomizer.

Great info Thanks
So now mine comes on when I connect the USB. Escribe recognizes it and it all seems normal, until I connect an atty or unplug the USB. Then it goes dark again. So from what you posted my fuse is defiantly Blown?

 

[Steamer861]

Good Morning

 

[Tpat591]

Great info Thanks
So now mine comes on when I connect the USB. Escribe recognizes it and it all seems normal, until I connect an atty or unplug the USB. Then it goes dark again. So from what you posted my fuse is defiantly Blown?

Meter will tell for sure. I assume that if you read battery voltage on side nearest the battery connection and not the other, the fuse is definitely your culprit. Evolv is swapping out boards that have the issue for modders, not sure if you have to go through manufacturer if it was purchased as a finished mod or not.

I've heard some say rather than send it back they were going to install auto fuse holders in the positive battery lead and just jump out the board fuse. If it were me, I would probably take the former approach.

This may help: Mod just stopped working without being plugged in. - DNA 200 Early Adopters Forum

 

[Steamer861]

Meter will tell for sure. I assume that if you read battery voltage on side nearest the battery connection and not the other, the fuse is definitely your culprit. Evolv is swapping out boards that have the issue for modders, not sure if you have to go through manufacturer if it was purchased as a finished mod or not.

I've heard some say rather than send it back they were going to install auto fuse holders in the positive battery lead and just jump out the board fuse. If it were me, I would probably take the former approach.

The board came from Evolv I got it in Mikes Co-Op. If this board didn't act a little funny like I mentioned in earlier post. I would try to just change to inline and by pass the fuse my self. With this particular board RMA is going to be just fine

 

[Tpat591]

The board came from Evolv I got it in Mikes Co-Op. If this board didn't act a little funny like I mentioned in earlier post. I would try to just change to inline and by pass the fuse my self. With this particular board RMA is going to be just fine

Agreed. Problem with replacing a fuse is why did it blow out in first place?. They say you need 2 soldering irons or heated tweezers to replace it anyway in that link I gave you. RMA from Evolv is only way to go in my book!

 

[Steamer861]

Agreed. Problem with replacing a fuse is why did it blow out in first place?. They say you need 2 soldering irons or heated tweezers to replace it anyway in that link I gave you. RMA from Evolv is only way to go in my book!

Thanks for the link. That is exactly what happened to mine. I thought Mike had said the fuse was resettable ?
Any way because it blew in the first place I'm suspecting a bigger problem some were else.
Your exactly right a about the RMA

 

[ozen]

About $41-42 plus shipping not a bad price
wood BOX MOD enclosure Cachalote DNA200 "laminated beechwood - african mahogany" | eBay

*credit to David247 in DNA200 thread

 

[BlueridgeDog]

Having seen your install, there appeared to be no issues with hookup or soldering. As such I think there is another issue with the board. You should post your problem on the Evolv forum as you will likely get an expedited replacement in exchange for telling them about the failure.

The pinched ribbon is, IMHO, a design flaw at this point as even with the display cutout moved as far down as possible there is still too much cable, so the ribbon will always need to be manually looped away from the power button after the chip is seated.