Have heard that the Bottom Pin from a Herakles works not only great but much better than the OEM L2 Pin does. If replace, might as well do it with that one if ya can.
Eleaf Lemo II
- Thread starter Vapenstein
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Little O-ring helps again. Put it in the positive post between the lip on the screw and the white insulator.
Another "what the Lemo II needed from day one:"
A 9/64" hole centered at each juice channel horizontally and at the level of the deck vertically. Just basically a copy of the design of the newer STM rba and every "subtank" premade coil out there. It does work. I can finally add this thing to the rotation. Now it wicks thick juice the way it's supposed to.
A 9/64" hole centered at each juice channel horizontally and at the level of the deck vertically. Just basically a copy of the design of the newer STM rba and every "subtank" premade coil out there. It does work. I can finally add this thing to the rotation. Now it wicks thick juice the way it's supposed to.
Another "what the Lemo II needed from day one:"
View attachment 479636
A 9/64" hole centered at each juice channel horizontally and at the level of the deck vertically. Just basically a copy of the design of the newer STM RBA and every "subtank" premade coil out there. It does work. I can finally add this thing to the rotation. Now it wicks thick juice the way it's supposed to.
Nice! I would imagine it takes care of all the fussy wicking business as well. Just stuff it full of cotton, amirite?
I'm sure that would work. I always do these "Kayfun" type decks basically the same way -- trim the wick tails to just touch the deck, juice it up so the tails won't collapse, stick the inner fibers of the tails to the inner wall, use reasonable care to install the chimney so the outer fibers stay fluffy. Depending on how fussy the particular tank is, might do some minor adjustments to uncover the juice channels once the chimney is on. Takes all of less than a minute.
With the side holes in the chimney, this tank is no longer fussy at all. Wicks great and the vape is nice and full.
Wowsers!!!
Excellent, I had recently grabbed 26 from temco.
1) Do you think 32 would be better than 30?.. or stick to 30.
2) Im probably gonna vape 80vg w/ lemo2... what have you been using?
3) How high off the deck?
Thanks for advice mate : )
Depends what you're going for. 32 will have more of a crisp flavor. The 30 gives more vapor. Both really favorful dense vapes but the 32 gauge has more grooves for juice so it wins on flavor.
Drilled my Lemo 2 out as above.
So far, and its first tank, its a much better behaved unit.
.15 nickel build with rayon and IPV4 at 25w and 400 degrees.
So far, and its first tank, its a much better behaved unit.
.15 nickel build with rayon and IPV4 at 25w and 400 degrees.
I am having problems t think with my lemo2 I am using ni200 & my resistance is all over the place. I have made sure it is not coil. This is my second build in a row that this has happened. So I am wondering if it is this pin issue. If so what do I need to check & how? If this is described step by step in this thread anyone know what page? Also, I have 2 Lemo2s & I can't get the airflow control to screw off of either one now. They have unscrewed before. Any tricks to do this? Because don't I have to get this off to work on the pin or screw?
Did you ever get it to come apart? I am having the same issue
Every once in a while I have a similar problem with every atty that has the "double base" design like the Lemo 2. What you can try is remove the AFC base, push the pin from the bottom as much as possible, make sure the interior central screw is nice and snug, clean both contacts, and reassemble.
If you can't remove the AFC base, try freezing it. The contraction will "move" metal due to its constrained state so it's not a matter of doing it while it's still cold, just freezing and thawing it should make it removable. Heat works too but don't do that lol.
Ok thanks! You do mean push the 510 pin from the bottom or outside up into the AFC. Correct?
Yes, once you get the AFC base off, just make sure the 510 pin is pushed up as far as it goes from the bottom. The 510 pin makes contact with the screw that fastens the positive post. Make sure that screw is snug. Make sure both the top of the pin and the screw contact area are clean.
What is quickly becoming my favorite Lemo2 build:
30AWG Ni200 2x10 wraps
Getting all wicked up:
Cut and trimmed and ready for priming:
This puts out more flavor and more vapor (and uses more juice) than any build I've put into the Lemo2 to date. Currently registering 0.11 ohms on SXM, set to 35J, Standard and have ramped up from 280F to 360F (this clouds up the room fairly fast!)
30AWG Ni200 2x10 wraps
Getting all wicked up:
Cut and trimmed and ready for priming:
This puts out more flavor and more vapor (and uses more juice) than any build I've put into the Lemo2 to date. Currently registering 0.11 ohms on SXM, set to 35J, Standard and have ramped up from 280F to 360F (this clouds up the room fairly fast!)
Have not read this whole thread so this may have been addressed. If so sorry for the repeat.
Is anyone having trouble with leakage? I have only had this a few days and it occasionally leaks out the air intake holes. Just a drop now and then. So WTF?
Is anyone having trouble with leakage? I have only had this a few days and it occasionally leaks out the air intake holes. Just a drop now and then. So WTF?
Two thoughts
- I've noticed that some builds I do (on other RTA's to) I get heated juice sprinkles out the drip tip. Some of these will catch on air tower (and the drip tip) and drip down the center air hole and eventually out the air holes on the bottom.
- some wicking methods will allow juice to ether flood the chamber or over run the build deck and drain out the center air hole
I had my suspicions about the wick but was not sure.
Should have stated this before but I'm still using the original build. This is my first RTA so I'm kinda in the dark.
How long should the wick last in this RTA before replacing?
The cotton I have is the 2x2 patches I have used for micro coils. Is this acceptable for use in this RTA or should I use different stuff? If yes, then what would you recommend?
Thanks
Should have stated this before but I'm still using the original build. This is my first RTA so I'm kinda in the dark.
How long should the wick last in this RTA before replacing?
The cotton I have is the 2x2 patches I have used for micro coils. Is this acceptable for use in this RTA or should I use different stuff? If yes, then what would you recommend?
Thanks
I've had similar issues with mine, but it has been infrequent and I have chalked it up to improper wicking, or a wick that I need to replace due to over use. 3-4 tankfuls and I'm ready to replace the cotton, or about a day and a half if it's the only tank I'm using for that time. Anyoprganic cotton is just fine, and I'm guessing "2x2 patches" are the Japanese cotton pads. That's what I normally use in my drippers and tanks, so you should be good to go
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