Subtank nano woes

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Two_Bears

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Interesting story and I am going to solve a problem. Many sub Ohmers are having, and how to make your OCC coils last longer.

Now for some levity.

I have an authentic Subtank Nano and a branded 1:1 clone. I know which is which because I put different colored bands on the clone.

Last night I needed to fill the authentic and the bottom part was so tight King Kong must have pjg it on and it came apart on three pieces. I was lucky it was almost empty of I would have had juice EVERYWHERE. The 1:1 clone has been an absolute joy to use.

Most people hate sub ohming because the drip tip on the Subtank, mini,and Nano is wide bore and the draw is too airy.

An easy way to fix that is to buy another drip tip with a much smaller bore something like a Ming Vase drip tip.that has a 1.5-2 mm channel will tighten the airflow almost as light as a Clearomiser on an EgoT battery.

Now here is a tip on saving money on your OCC heads.

If you gently remove cotton from the horizontal OCC heads; you can insert new cotton in the head and make the coil last much longer. I have one coil that I have changed the cotton five times so far. Over time the resistance has gone up from. 53 ohms to .78 ohms. Yes I am still using the original coil that came in the head. When. Later I will build coils for the head. In case you did not know you can take the head apart and put a new coil and wick in the head. You Tuber "Rip Trippers" shows a stupid simple rebuild for the horizontal OCC HEAD.

I bought a new RDA ROGUE. It is small like my beloved FS MINI;but the airflow comes in from the top instead of the bottom so it should be less likely to leak.

I am thinking of a vertical coil build with the cotton. On the outside. Will write a review for it
 
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Two_Bears

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Why wouldn't you just buy a tank that comes with an RBA deck if you were trying to build your own coils ?

Because many of the RBA decks are so tight for space and short out so often that in my experience rebuilding the OCC heads is actually easier. Than building on an RBA.

Maybe one day I will find a Crown or an Eleaf Lemo tank that is easy to build.

There is an RBA that comes with the Subtank Mini but the darn screws are1/2 mm from the wall. Meaning you are going to short unless you file the end of the wire flush with the deck.

I chose those words Stupid simple when I described Rip Trippers rebuild of the OCC HEAD for a reason.

Wrap the coil insert in the head rotste the coil yo match the openings for the juice flow. Insert a 2-2.4 mm drill bit or screw driver through the coil and both holed. This anchors the coil in place .

Bend one of the leads over the housing put the Insulator over the other lead and insert the insulator in place. Insert the positive pin through the insulator. Trim your leads close as possible check the coil is still centered insert your wick. Check the position of the coil. If it has shifted adjust with a flat screwdriver and you have a brand new better than new coil that you paid pennies for and 10 minutes or less of your time.

I even rebuilt a few coils for the Pro Tank. Nos that is a super tight build not for the faint hearted.
 

dcfluegel

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Because many of the RBA decks are so tight for space and short out so often that in my experience rebuilding the OCC heads is actually easier. Than building on an RBA.

Maybe one day I will find a Crown or an Eleaf Lemo tank that is easy to build.

There is an RBA that comes with the Subtank Mini but the darn screws are1/2 mm from the wall. Meaning you are going to short unless you file the end of the wire flush with the deck.

I chose those words Stupid simple when I described Rip Trippers rebuild of the OCC HEAD for a reason.

Wrap the coil insert in the head rotste the coil yo match the openings for the juice flow. Insert a 2-2.4 mm drill bit or screw driver through the coil and both holed. This anchors the coil in place .

Bend one of the leads over the housing put the Insulator over the other lead and insert the insulator in place. Insert the positive pin through the insulator. Trim your leads close as possible check the coil is still centered insert your wick. Check the position of the coil. If it has shifted adjust with a flat screwdriver and you have a brand new better than new coil that you paid pennies for and 10 minutes or less of your time.

I even rebuilt a few coils for the Pro Tank. Nos that is a super tight build not for the faint hearted.
one trick i have found with the kanger rba is to put in coil, clip it, then loosen screws - slide coil one way, clip an additional 1/16" inch, slide coil the other way and repeat - center coil and tighten screws - have had no shorts since
 
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Two_Bears

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Sparky. You don't understand the situation.

The Zephyrus is a dual coil. I hate dual coils for the following reasons.

1. Cuts the battery life in half.
2 generates twice the heat.
3.burns twice the juice
4. Only gives you 25-30% more flavor..

Yes I could get a Crown tank by Uwell; but before I buy one I have to find one to buy.

I don't visit online vape shops I am very security conscious. I have been using eBay and Amazon for 15 and 17 years. I know them and trust them. The local shops do not have crown tanks.
 

edyle

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Because many of the RBA decks are so tight for space and short out so often that in my experience rebuilding the OCC heads is actually easier. Than building on an RBA.

Maybe one day I will find a Crown or an Eleaf Lemo tank that is easy to build.

There is an RBA that comes with the Subtank Mini but the darn screws are1/2 mm from the wall. Meaning you are going to short unless you file the end of the wire flush with the deck.

I chose those words Stupid simple when I described Rip Trippers rebuild of the OCC HEAD for a reason.

Wrap the coil insert in the head rotste the coil yo match the openings for the juice flow. Insert a 2-2.4 mm drill bit or screw driver through the coil and both holed. This anchors the coil in place .

Bend one of the leads over the housing put the Insulator over the other lead and insert the insulator in place. Insert the positive pin through the insulator. Trim your leads close as possible check the coil is still centered insert your wick. Check the position of the coil. If it has shifted adjust with a flat screwdriver and you have a brand new better than new coil that you paid pennies for and 10 minutes or less of your time.

I even rebuilt a few coils for the Pro Tank. Nos that is a super tight build not for the faint hearted.

I wrap my wire round the screw so it comes back around towards the coil and clip it on that side.
 
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Two_Bears

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one trick i have found with the kanger rba is to put in coil, clip it, then loosen screws - slide coil one way, clip an additional 1/16" inch, slide coil the other way and repeat - center coil and tighten screws - have had no shorts since

Good for you. I'll keep rebuilding and rewicking the OCC HEADS till I find what I want and meets my needs. I thought I had found it with the Freakshow Mini until it started leaking like crazy. It is always good to have a fallback position and for me that is the Subtank Nano and the OCC Heads.
 

dcfluegel

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Good for you. I'll keep rebuilding and rewicking the OCC HEADS till I find what I want and meets my needs. I thought I had found it with the Freakshow Mini until it started leaking like crazy. It is always good to have a fallback position and for me that is the Subtank Nano and the OCC Heads.
vape on, brother.
 

Two_Bears

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I wrap my wire round the screw so it comes back around towards the coil and clip it on that side.

That is great idea but I have a few fingers on my left hand curled up from Dupodrens Contracture so I simply do not have that much mobility with my left hand for me making and installing a coil in an RDA or the
OCC heads is no problem but building a coil and manipulating wire under the tiny screw heads is impossible.
 

Two_Bears

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edyle

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That is great idea but I have a few fingers on my left hand curled up from Dupodrens Contracture so I simply do not have that much mobility with my left hand for me making and installing a coil in an RDA or the
OCC heads is no problem but building a coil and manipulating wire under the tiny screw heads is impossible.

In that case, I think you will find the magma, manta, ...........oh, was going to say the velocity..... but those are rda's not rta's.

Well there's the flash-e-vapour

i'm trying to think of rta's that definitely have postholes instead of you having to wrap around a screwhead.....................


===edit===
you know what?
that's definitely one design that can be made for subtank coils..... postholes
 
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Hans Wermhat

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Had and sold a Kayfun. Kept flooding. Never had a Billow or the other.
The wickig on a KF can be tricky. Less is more. If you put what looks like enough, it's too much and it will flood. I just got the billow v2 and it's nice. Like an orchid, but it wicks 10x faster and you can pull the build deck without dumping the tank. The velocity is on my wish list.
 

Two_Bears

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I watched several vids and reviews on the aromamizer.

I did watch several vids of the Goblin Mini RTA and seriously considering it.

Any one try it.

I like it because it comes with a seal so you can run it in single coil mode. I also like the fact that it is only 28 mm tall without the drip tip meaning it should give great flavor. I an a flavor chaser not a cloud chaser. I also like the fact that it holds 3 ml ejuice ( the same as the Subtank Nano.

What I don't like is the tiny fill port in the bottom,the pendulum airflow regulator, and lastly the tiny screw that closes the fill port.
 
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