I've seen that, I can't remember now, does it have the mounting screw holes?
Yes, see the pic below which is a screen cap of the PDF file but note, this pic is NOT to scale.
(Click to enlarge)
I'll throw my 2 cents in on this, I wouldn't spend that much for a pre-cut Hammond box. While it did take me about four hours to get mine laid out, drilled, the openings cut/filed and the sides straighten, it was not really difficult. I printed this template, cut one out, cut out the opening for the screen and usb port with an x-acto knife, taped it on the side of the box and made my layout. I took a large needle, pushed it through the hole centers to make a tiny punch mark for the drill holes, then used a real pricck punch to make the punch deeper so the drill bit wouldn't walk, make sure you support the underside/inside of the box when you strike with the punch otherwise you'll bend the side of the box while pricck punching. With the template taped on the box, I used a magic marker to ink a layout for the screen and usb openings leaving a inked layout once I lifted the template, all I had to do was file away all the black ink. I took my time and went slow but the actual working the aluminum is easy because the metal is so soft. Easy to work but that's why you have to take your time and be careful, you can always file more but it's hard to put metal back.
While I did drill my holes on a drill press, I could have easily drilled my holes with a hand drill (if your careful) but you first have to pricck punch and start with small drill bits then work up and use good sharp drills. I cut the countersink by hand using a new drill bit, I wouldn't try it on a press or by hand. It only takes maybe 10-15 turns total to cut that counter sink with a sharp bit. I would twist a few turns, drop a screw in to check the depth, then turn a few more until I could run my finger over the screw head and feel it was flush. Do your self a favor and get a number drill set, a quality set if you can afford them... While I also do have a harbor freight set and you can get away with these, just know that these are not easy to work with for fine drilling because the angles, cutting lips are not equal on both sides and the bits wobble a bit when starting which leaves you with a hole larger then the bit, they are sharp, but cheaply made. If you use these always use one or two bits smaller then the hole you want, drill and check the hole, you can always re-drill larger if needed.
60 Pc Titanium Nitride Coated High Speed Steel Numbered Drill Bit Set
For the screen and usb openings I used a drill bit about 60% the size of the opening, drilled two holes for the usb and three for the screen then used those holes to start with small needle files of various shapes and just took my time. When I got close to the edge I slowed way down, a few strokes at a time using lite pressure and making sure the file was at 90°. For the screen, I first pushed a round file (that had the radius for the corner) to each corner, then used flat files to cut the straight sides and worked towards those corners. You can get needle files at many places, amazon, ebay, craft stores, harbor freight, ect. Here's a cheap set at HF, you get what you pay for, mine are expensive files I used as a mechanic and some my father had who was a tool and die maker, they are about five inches long.
12 Piece Precision Needle File Set
This is the pin vise I used to turn the bit by hand and cut the counter sink holes
Amazon.com: starrett pin vise: Industrial & Scientific