I'm pondering that one, too. Like a Tibs with a little more depth, just 8cm tall.
Mike n Tibs DNA Mods!
- Thread starter Proetus
- Start date
- th_trl_thread_readers 0
- Status
I have a question / favor, which might benefit us all. I have a local machine shop that will mill a 1590a or 1590g box with usb, square screen, 3 button holes, 510 hole and 3 screw mount holes (not sure if they'll be countersunk or not?). Verbal estimate was around $25-$30 (plus the cost of the box). I know black hammond boxes are available for around $8-$10/ea. so around $40 for a cut box (give or take).
Can anyone with the drawing skills and proper meauserments draw up a pdf with the holes in the correct places? If I had that I could submit to him for a real "solid" estimate. We still need buttons though...or use off board buttons?
Can anyone with the drawing skills and proper meauserments draw up a pdf with the holes in the correct places? If I had that I could submit to him for a real "solid" estimate. We still need buttons though...or use off board buttons?
This has been bugging me for a little while now that we are seeing more DNA200 designs being uploaded to 3D print services. I'm wondering if many of the designs available for nylon printing aren't using thick enough walls for LiPo use. From a safety perspective it seems 3mm-4mm walls are the minimum needed for a plastic mod with a LiPo battery to protect it from an external flammability and external puncture perspective. Many plastic enclosure designs I'm seeing of late on Shapeways and elsewhere look to have wall thickness of no more than 1mm-2mm (at least in part). Another disadvantage is that such thin walls tend to flex, giving a less solid feel.
I think it bears linking to Yozhik's post regarding UL safety standards for plastic enclosures in the DNA200 thread: DNA 200 Watt | Page 76 | E-Cigarette Forum
Here is a write up on the UL 94 flammability standard Yozhik references: http://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct=j&q=&esrc=s&source=web&cd=4&ved=0CDUQFjADahUKEwinpvHMhZHHAhWT74AKHdhlDtE&url=http://www.sheffieldplastics.com/web_docs/misc/MSC103_Technical_Bulletin_UL94.pdf&ei=zIjBVaeQBpPfgwTYy7mIDQ&usg=AFQjCNG3CiIRVuejUSO2_LB5sL9IotJ7vg&sig2=ErEpqvPEZB7dOuzQlBmjpw.
Maybe I'm just being overly paranoid, but it is something to consider when designing your plastic enclosures. I appreciate folks like BRD who are considering these factors when designing their enclosures.
I think it bears linking to Yozhik's post regarding UL safety standards for plastic enclosures in the DNA200 thread: DNA 200 Watt | Page 76 | E-Cigarette Forum
Here is a write up on the UL 94 flammability standard Yozhik references: http://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct=j&q=&esrc=s&source=web&cd=4&ved=0CDUQFjADahUKEwinpvHMhZHHAhWT74AKHdhlDtE&url=http://www.sheffieldplastics.com/web_docs/misc/MSC103_Technical_Bulletin_UL94.pdf&ei=zIjBVaeQBpPfgwTYy7mIDQ&usg=AFQjCNG3CiIRVuejUSO2_LB5sL9IotJ7vg&sig2=ErEpqvPEZB7dOuzQlBmjpw.
Maybe I'm just being overly paranoid, but it is something to consider when designing your plastic enclosures. I appreciate folks like BRD who are considering these factors when designing their enclosures.
Last edited:
ETA: One of the ebay sellers who offers the CNC Hammond boxes states in his descriptions they can also machine cutout's and drill holes for an additional fee, may want to contact them and see what price they would charge. If they set up for one they might want to do more seeing how the DNA200 demand is growing. It might be to their benefit to start offering them up, mention that when you talk to them, maybe they will help lower the cost.
I think this PDF file is what you need, Dropbox - dna200_cut_template.pdf
If you want to print the face plates to correct scale from Adobe PDF Reader, first zoom in so the four templates fill the viewing screen, hit print, then in the pop up window for the print options, under "pages to print" you'll see a small triangle icon, click that then select "current view" and "actual size", like this
Last edited:
I've seen that, I can't remember now, does it have the mounting screw holes?
Ok. If you send me a link to the three lipos that you think would fit that bill, then I can see if something is workable via a snap module. the smallest will be the 900, but the other two are up to you. You should pick packs that share the height in common as near as possible.
Gearbest has the same box right now for $120 with code VTBOX200. But theirs is a presale that goes until 8/25.
With an Istick 40W TC at 26.99 currently this may be my last device for a while. I think I will wait for the DNA1000 with integrated coaxial 510 center pin for thermocouple connections with humidity sensor and juice injectors in compatible rta's.. I'm thinking a ceramic disk with imbedded thermoprobe for the wick/coil . Forget all the fun settings for temps and curves. Just a dial for more vapor or less vapor. Perhaps a flavor/temp adjustment but that's it. This ain't rocket science folks. 
The 900 is exactly what I was thinking for the "small" one. It's not a whole lot bigger than an 18650. From there, I think it's still 2 18650s and 3 18650s for best power to size ratio. To my eye, the esquare is about right in terms of what a present day decent capacity box mod should look like. Unfortunately, it doesn't seem to be very popular. The tesla 200 is bigger but still has some style.
With an Istick 40W TC at 26.99 currently this may be my last device for a while. I think I will wait for the DNA1000 with integrated coaxial 510 center pin for thermocouple connections with humidity sensor and juice injectors in compatible rta's.. I'm thinking a ceramic disk with imbedded thermoprobe for the wick/coil . Forget all the fun settings for temps and curves. Just a dial for more vapor or less vapor. Perhaps a flavor/temp adjustment but that's it. This ain't rocket science folks.
I'm going ultrasonic mist with post heat lol. Only really major problem so far is the need to tether to a wall socket or a battery the size of a car battery.
Nah, using magnet wire for the leads with insulation removed in the disk and at the posts would yield instant heat at low power. If the copper can handle the stress, that is. That would leave ample power for your ultrasonic thingy. The mist could be released into a ceramic cylinder shaped to ensure total evaporation. Till then, it will be the disposable Istick TC for me...Oh and this puppy too if I don't kill the chip.I'm going ultrasonic mist with post heat lol. Only really major problem so far is the need to tether to a wall socket or a battery the size of a car battery.
I am not too eager to work with the 18650 layouts for the DNA200 BUT will do some when the adapter comes out (it will require three fets). I do think that a modular design than can handle various lipos and/or 18650s is interesting. Personally I think the 18650 form factor is dead or at least on life support.
Yes, see the pic below which is a screen cap of the PDF file but note, this pic is NOT to scale.
(Click to enlarge)
I'll throw my 2 cents in on this, I wouldn't spend that much for a pre-cut Hammond box. While it did take me about four hours to get mine laid out, drilled, the openings cut/filed and the sides straighten, it was not really difficult. I printed this template, cut one out, cut out the opening for the screen and usb port with an x-acto knife, taped it on the side of the box and made my layout. I took a large needle, pushed it through the hole centers to make a tiny punch mark for the drill holes, then used a real pricck punch to make the punch deeper so the drill bit wouldn't walk, make sure you support the underside/inside of the box when you strike with the punch otherwise you'll bend the side of the box while pricck punching. With the template taped on the box, I used a magic marker to ink a layout for the screen and usb openings leaving a inked layout once I lifted the template, all I had to do was file away all the black ink. I took my time and went slow but the actual working the aluminum is easy because the metal is so soft. Easy to work but that's why you have to take your time and be careful, you can always file more but it's hard to put metal back.
While I did drill my holes on a drill press, I could have easily drilled my holes with a hand drill (if your careful) but you first have to pricck punch and start with small drill bits then work up and use good sharp drills. I cut the countersink by hand using a new drill bit, I wouldn't try it on a press or by hand. It only takes maybe 10-15 turns total to cut that counter sink with a sharp bit. I would twist a few turns, drop a screw in to check the depth, then turn a few more until I could run my finger over the screw head and feel it was flush. Do your self a favor and get a number drill set, a quality set if you can afford them... While I also do have a harbor freight set and you can get away with these, just know that these are not easy to work with for fine drilling because the angles, cutting lips are not equal on both sides and the bits wobble a bit when starting which leaves you with a hole larger then the bit, they are sharp, but cheaply made. If you use these always use one or two bits smaller then the hole you want, drill and check the hole, you can always re-drill larger if needed.
60 Pc Titanium Nitride Coated High Speed Steel Numbered Drill Bit Set
For the screen and usb openings I used a drill bit about 60% the size of the opening, drilled two holes for the usb and three for the screen then used those holes to start with small needle files of various shapes and just took my time. When I got close to the edge I slowed way down, a few strokes at a time using lite pressure and making sure the file was at 90°. For the screen, I first pushed a round file (that had the radius for the corner) to each corner, then used flat files to cut the straight sides and worked towards those corners. You can get needle files at many places, amazon, ebay, craft stores, harbor freight, ect. Here's a cheap set at HF, you get what you pay for, mine are expensive files I used as a mechanic and some my father had who was a tool and die maker, they are about five inches long.
12 Piece Precision Needle File Set
This is the pin vise I used to turn the bit by hand and cut the counter sink holes
Amazon.com: starrett pin vise: Industrial & Scientific
- Status
Similar threads
