Yes, the cleaning methods I was suggesting were for the center post that went bad. Sounds like they improved the new one tough. If it holds up well it'll definitely be on my purchase list when I get the chance to purchase
So I ran into a problem...one of my afc screws went in too far and now it won't come back out. When I try, it turns...but clicks like it's not threaded properly. I only have one small screwdriver available else I'd put a second in through the air intake and try to thread it with that.
Still works, though now the air flow is too restrictive to go back to low-ohm coils.
You can drill it out if your careful. Or find a very small lefthanded drill bit and use that to get it out.
I don't have one yet but very interested. I use protank 2's and rebuild. Just a thought maybe the Kanger nano glass and o rings may be the same size since they both are 18 mm . I have a nano but too airy for me........
It's a 26 with 32 gauge, 6 wraps. Came out to .7 ohms. Still working great!I'd love some glass...I shattered mine the other day.
@Btsmokincat what is that Clapton? I had a 32/28 5/6 wrap in mine for a bit...yeah, it's the bee's knees
Thanks @proteckt3d and yes the D2's YiHi chip performs quite well. I've not experienced any issues with this setup. I have it set at 17J 380F in Ni mode and it seems to be the sweet spot for me with this build and my DIY Tobacco Absolute. The D2's typical Joule resistance range for accurate TC is 0.05Ω to 0.3Ω (although users have reported going as high as 1.0Ω without issues) so my target was to stay under the 0.3Ω mark. I haven't tried going higher but plan to try 1.0Ω later. I chose 26g Ti for lower resistance (but not too low) from a thicker gauge, and I plan to try others gauges soon. I chose 2-wire twisted since it is normally what I prefer for most builds on any tank/RDA, and for the Mini Buddha I also chose 2.5mm ID to leave room for better airflow while still having sufficient wicking thickness...3mm ID would be too tight of a draw for my preference. I removed the airflow control screws from the base permanently.Cool setup Ed. The d2 regulates temperature ok with this setup? Also I would like to ask how did you choose the wire gauge, based on resistance level or were there other factors?
I read your post about breaking your glass...major bummer. Although it seems a spare tank is nowhere to be found, I'm wondering if EHPro would sell one or at least provide a list of vendors who might sell it separately.Man, you're making me miss my Buddha.
But what about guitar porn? I recognize Olympic White, and it looks like a Strat, but not that bridge...
Looks great! Why are you not usin Ti mode out of interest? Works great for me!!Thanks @proteckt3d and yes the D2's YiHi chip performs quite well. I've not experienced any issues with this setup. I have it set at 17J 380F in Ni mode and it seems to be the sweet spot for me with this build and my DIY Tobacco Absolute. The D2's typical Joule resistance range for accurate TC is 0.05Ω to 0.3Ω (although users have reported going as high as 1.0Ω without issues) so my target was to stay under the 0.3Ω mark. I haven't tried going higher but plan to try 1.0Ω later. I chose 26g Ti for lower resistance (but not too low) from a thicker gauge, and I plan to try others gauges soon. I chose 2-wire twisted since it is normally what I prefer for most builds on any tank/RDA, and for the Mini Buddha I also chose 2.5mm ID to leave room for better airflow while still having sufficient wicking thickness...3mm ID would be too tight of a draw for my preference. I removed the airflow control screws from the base permanently.
I recently wrapped approx 2 feet of Clapton wire using 28g/32g Kanthal but haven't tried it yet because I've been experimenting with Ti and temperature control exclusively ever since I received my D2 three weeks ago, but I have vapemail enroute (an EHPro LB RDA) so I'll probably wait for it to arrive to try my Kanthal Clapton wire.
Enjoying Day 2 of my Ti build on my Mini Buddha...this calls for more vape porn:
I've determined I can set lower temperatures in Ni mode (versus higher temperatures in Ti mode) and get better performance out of it...and as a result better battery life too. This "side-effect" (using a different mode on a different wire) relates to the algorithm and how chips on TC mods regulate temperature for a specific wire type. For example, if I set it at 450F in Ti mode I can lower it to around 380F in Ni mode (using identical Joules) and get more intense flavor and thicker vapor. Which TC mod are you using? Try Ni mode on your Ti build and let me know the results. If you haven't tried it yet, I think you might find it interesting.Looks great! Why are you not usin Ti mode out of interest? Works great for me!!
There are several threads...try this one:Well at least these mods are getting better in the future and not worse Is there a thread where people try different gauges of Ti?