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Bobw1951

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Just tried doing a steel wrap again, this time I tried a 6 wrap parallel build 27AWG on a Lemo 2, came out at 0.45 ohm, managed to work out the hot legs squeezing up the coils until they were tight, finding that you need to drop the temp by about 100°F so vaping at 300°F 40w on my Vaporshark

Weird thing though, had it working OK at first on my HB DNA40 while it was stripped down, but as soon as I put it together and filled with juice, it reverted to voltage/wattage mode instead of temperature mode, that's why I changed it over to the Vaporshark, to test and it works fine in temp mode on that.

EDIT: Cancel that, it's gone back to voltage/wattage mode again - not sure this steel stuff is all it's cracked up to be, at least not for temperature protection, mind you vaping at 40w it is not that hot.
 
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Pictor

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with Google searches just add site:uk or sometimes just uk at the end of the query so "subtank mini site:uk" should only bring up uk related sites

EDIT I also use Google.co.uk rather than Google.com
I'll try adding 'uk' to searches - I have Google.co.uk too, but default to Bing.

Could be the plugin or site adjustments for the new edge browser shipping with windows 10. Depending on your timelineOf issues?
I've disabled any enabled plug-ins/add-ons, not re-booted though so may leave that and see what happens tomorrow.
Some of the issues have been there for some months, and it was when they started using the new style websites (which I don't like), but others, such as the Chefs Vapour issue only started happening in the past week.
 

Brynglas

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@Bobw1951

Found my Vaponaute drip tips at another shop in France.I went back to the Swiss site i've used before(who are out of stock),but then noticed and clicked on their French branch who had them in stock,so i've ordered and paid.

So that other shop can go and :pervy: themselves. :laugh:
 

Bobw1951

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Brynglas

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Bobw1951

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I've got two of those Bob,the bore is really small, for the job, i think, Marcus wants it for.
It's only 6mm.And for something like a sub ohm tank it's probably too tight.

I've got one fitted on my KF4 bellcap
Why the f**k call them Mega Bore then bleedin' f**kwits
 

Brynglas

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Why the f**k call them Mega Bore then bleedin' f**kwits

I was the mug who ordered two when i saw "Mega bore" Bob.
Without thinking of going and getting a measure to see how big they would be.
I think the word ,disappointed, covers my feelings when i opened the package.

The bleedin' ....wits :laugh:
 

Bobw1951

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I was the mug who ordered two when i saw "Mega bore" Bob.
Without thinking of going and getting a measure to see how big they would be.
I think the word ,disappointed, covers my feelings when i opened the package.

The bleedin' ....wits :laugh:
I would have sent them back asking if they knew what Mega Bore meant
 
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h00ligan

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Just tried doing a steel wrap again, this time I tried a 6 wrap parallel build 27AWG on a Lemo 2, came out at 0.45 ohm, managed to work out the hot legs squeezing up the coils until they were tight, finding that you need to drop the temp by about 100°F so vaping at 300°F 40w on my Vaporshark

Weird thing though, had it working OK at first on my HB DNA40 while it was stripped down, but as soon as I put it together and filled with juice, it reverted to voltage/wattage mode instead of temperature mode, that's why I changed it over to the Vaporshark, to test and it works fine in temp mode on that.

EDIT: Cancel that, it's gone back to voltage/wattage mode again - not sure this steel stuff is all it's cracked up to be, at least not for temperature protection, mind you vaping at 40w it is not that hot.

This Is some of the hassle i faced. Except the dna 40 isn't really made for it. Why Dont you create and load a proper ss profile from steam engine on the 200 you just bought. With a proper profile loaded it wont be sk far off and it wont be dropping out. Right now you're mods are expecting nickel and getting confused with a temp control material with a completely different coefficient.


-*Plese excuz any iPone-tyos
 

Bobw1951

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A guy on Facebook does some really nice acrylic tips,i ordered one of his on Friday for my Goblin mini.

@Marcus1970 worth a look if you are on faceache mate.....Vinces tips...look better than Dibleys:)
Just had a ganders myself and ordered 2 of the slightly taller ones in his picture with his name above, a dark blue with red & white and a light blue with red & white, told him you sent me, and he said to say thanks :)
 
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Bobw1951

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This Is some of the hassle i faced. Except the dna 40 isn't really made for it. Why Dont you create and load a proper ss profile from steam engine on the 200 you just bought. With a proper profile loaded it wont be sk far off and it wont be dropping out. Right now you're mods are expecting nickel and getting confused with a temp control material with a completely different coefficient.


-*Plese excuz any iPone-tyos
Thanks, I'll give that a try.
 

h00ligan

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A guy on Facebook does some really nice acrylic tips,i ordered one of his on Friday for my Goblin mini.

@Marcus1970 worth a look if you are on faceache mate.....Vinces tips...look better than Dibleys:)
Do you have a link by chance? I find the 510 adapter for he goblin mini tends to come out very easily. Fast tech have bell caps for it now at about $2 per id you haven't seen. Four oack for ~$6.50


-*Plese excuz any iPone-tyos
 

h00ligan

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Thanks, I'll give that a try.
Here are the titanium and ss wire profiles in a csv csv all ready for you if t helps

Dropbox - 316l.csv

Dropbox - tiwire.csv

Just download to your desktop open the application and make a new profile for each. Watch the temp setting. Default for me was 200 watts. I lowered it to 60. If you haven't watched the how to its a 5 minute tutorial or less.


-*Plese excuz any iPone-tyos
 
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Brynglas

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