Repost from
here in case someone is interested:
The
s’lab200 is
finally up and running.
Please bear in mind that the red rubber bands are not part of the design but interim measurements only. I managed to dead short the battery that I have temporarily brought back to life until the new battery arrives on Monday. But it needs full time attention (used/charged only when tethered and monitored on
device Monitor) and occasional tinkering, hence the doggy quick access solution.
The design:
This is basically a faux reference box on light steroids.
The result is an average brick measuring 98.85 x 61.5 x 28.15 mm (3.91” x 2.427” x 1.112”) which is slightly beefier and deeper but reasonably lower than my IPV4 (107.2 x 57.44 x26.55 mm, 4.212” x 2.225” x 1.04“)
And it easily houses a Turnigy Nano 3s 1500mah providing 16.65Wh.
Besides, it is light and the buttons are fun to use. They are easy, clicky and responsive. Love ‘em.
The print:
This is my very first 3D printout I have seen/hold thus I can’t provide comprehensive evaluation but tell you that I have found the overall print quality good and precise. However, the buttons needed quite a bit of filing as they simply didn’t go in. The usb connector opening also required some light filing but I was easy on it and let it reasonably tight fit.
But this is it, nothing really to write home about.
The build:
In general it was a rather easy build save for installing the board. But considering my skills it could be just me.
Anyway, the thing is that there is (was) a counter supporting angle holding the board from the top where there is no screw support from the bottom. The idea is good but I have found it hard to rotate even the naked board (w/o screen, wires etc) in because of the usb connector and it’s tight-fit opening on the case. With wires on and screen attached it seemed impossible to me for it would have needed more skills than I possess and/or more force on the case and/or on the screen ribbon I was willing to apply. So I have simply cut it off with a hot knife leaving the three standoffs and screws to hold the board.
Besides, I have ended up soldering the output wires with board already installed as they limited me maneuvering the board in too.
I have fixed the 510 connector last. The hole diameter allows for self taping the connector in so I decided to benefit from it.
I have attached an old, doggy atomizer to the connector and lightly drove it in just enough to put the terminal ring and the locknut on. Then with a plier I have started to undo the connector letting the nut rotate with it until the nut got stuck firmly and blocked any more movement. Then I just maintained this achieved tension between the nut and the case by holding the nut in place with a needle nose plier and drove the connector back in.
The result: I have needed quite a big plier and considerable torque to undo the atomizer or more properly the amorf remainder of the late atomizer from the connector which stayed rock solid and moved none.
To sum up:
I am a happy camper.
