Mike n Tibs DNA Mods!
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Before you put the chip in, bend a loop of screen whip back away from the fire button and tape it down. Now, when you install the whip will be an S shape above the display, rather than a C shape that goes into the power button.
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I find bending the ribbon cable round a credit card gives a nice tight bend that is not so tight as to be a fold and like to make the fist 180 degree bend 1 mm from the screen trying to avoid bending exactly where the cable joins the screen.
One bend only for me and it isn't sharp, place it so the bend is in front of the button and tape it down. You will end up fiddling with it a bit but just tape it to the board when you are done and drop it into place. That S bend ended up too sharp, became a fold and killed my screen. I wasn't ready and fiddled with it too much.The screen can be taped flush with the board and not have too tight a bend. All assuming the screen opening in the case is at the default location. If you move it higher, you're gonna have problems. If the standoffs take the chip further away from the front face, you can add padding between the screen and board. I'd avoid a fold if I could, or make it the last thing you do.
I got my first dna 133 up and running tonight. I had a smok xcube 2 that I hated so into the poor man's mill she went and after a many days of sweating and cursing, it is alive.
I was able to retain the xcube fire bar and use the stock up/down buttons also. It was a huge PITA because the fire bar is mounted to the existing board through two holes in ithe center of it and the existing board had two fire switches, one on each end. One the stock board was removed, there was nothing to mount the fire bar to, and of course the dna 200 board doesn't have holes in the middle of it or two fire switches, so it took a lot of effort to cobble a different set of mounts of exact size etc, so it fits and operates like stock. The light show led feature of the xcube had to go. No way to keep it -- just no room for any additional electronics and I wasted way too much time getting the fire bar to work already anyway lol.
Using the stock up/down buttons was easy compared to the fire bar. Anyway, vapes like a champ. My next DNA 133 is likely going to be a Snow Wolf. I'm trying to find a fried one cheap -- I just really like the size and the case.
I was able to retain the xcube fire bar and use the stock up/down buttons also. It was a huge PITA because the fire bar is mounted to the existing board through two holes in ithe center of it and the existing board had two fire switches, one on each end. One the stock board was removed, there was nothing to mount the fire bar to, and of course the dna 200 board doesn't have holes in the middle of it or two fire switches, so it took a lot of effort to cobble a different set of mounts of exact size etc, so it fits and operates like stock. The light show led feature of the xcube had to go. No way to keep it -- just no room for any additional electronics and I wasted way too much time getting the fire bar to work already anyway lol.
Using the stock up/down buttons was easy compared to the fire bar. Anyway, vapes like a champ. My next DNA 133 is likely going to be a Snow Wolf. I'm trying to find a fried one cheap -- I just really like the size and the case.
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@Mad Scientist, that looks great. I'm a big fan of repurposing enclosures and transplanting chips to authentic. Nicely done. Any shots of the inside?
Well I've hit trouble too! I'm into final assembly and the DNA200 three point mounting seems to be a flaw. I've got the board all mounted in, but when I push the battery and wires in, the slight pressure exerted is twisting the board and actuating the down button!
Oh well, tomorrow's another day..........
Oh well, tomorrow's another day..........
I make a hard sharp bend slightly past where the screen meets the ribbon, just fold it and pinch it, then push the screen down to flat and shape the other bends and then compress that to sharpen them too, hard folded bends don't damage the cable as long as you don't start bending it back and forth. make the bends then secure the screen with the bends, no problem. the biggest danger of breaking a screen is stressing the joint where the screen meets the ribbon, making a sharp bend a little past this point actually reduces the stress on this joint more than just trying to get a gentle curve, the hard bend is actually better and protects the fragile joint, eliminating any stress really, bends are good 
The only pic I have is the before pic of the insides. I'll attach it when I get back on my ipad. There was too much trial and error to make photos of the conversion process, would have had hundreds of "fail" to each success as it went along. Like a butcher making sausage, the process was very ugly but luckily the end result was good.
Edit: here is a shot of what's inside "before."
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I'm having a very big difference in ohm readings between two DNA200s with my Freemax Starre Pro with a .15ohm Ni200 coil. One mod reads it at .18ohm while the other reads it as .48ohm. Shall I assume I have a loose connection/bad solder somewhere?
Wow that's a lot of variance. Same type of 510? And which type is it?
I do remember reading somewhere that sometimes the spring of the 510 (assuming it's a spring loaded 510) can be what the device reads instead of the atty. (and heats up too)
I do remember reading somewhere that sometimes the spring of the 510 (assuming it's a spring loaded 510) can be what the device reads instead of the atty. (and heats up too)
Yup, both are identical VT 510s. I opened the mod up and played around with the wiring while firing it, which didn't result in any change in variance. I ordered some additional 510s from Varitube today and will swap it out when they come in. It very well could be that the mod is reading the spring...I had to drill out the 510 for the 14ga. wire, so maybe I messed something up in the process. Oh well...two big issues in one day...a dead board and wonky 510. At least I have one good DNA200 running at the moment (my C-Frame).
My 1590G is still in the construction phase. I had too many "chores" to do today to spend much time on it but I did make some progress. The board is mounted to the sled, spacers cut nd screws filed flush. I started cutting down the fire button to fit. Man, there's only about 2mmbetween the switch top and the inside of the case. That is set by the projection of the micro USB connector.
Tomorrow I have a chiropractor appointment that will mess up the morning, but I may have some time to work on it some more. I may re-cut a new fire button, I'm not really happy with this one but will wait until both sides have been cut to length to make a decision.
Tomorrow I have a chiropractor appointment that will mess up the morning, but I may have some time to work on it some more. I may re-cut a new fire button, I'm not really happy with this one but will wait until both sides have been cut to length to make a decision.
The atomizer or the same brand atomizer?
As an aside, I don't plan on running anything on the 200 other than the reference 510 once I get some.
If I remember right, you have a similar "poor man's mill" as mine. Can you just clamp the buttons in the vise and mill them to the correct depth? I've had a lot of success milling small parts. Fast tool speed and slow feed rates seem to work the best. With the small parts involved and a small, end cutting mill (I use 1/8" -- actually got them from Sears catalog for about 4 bucks a piece), chatter has not been an issue.
The board that reads 0.48ohms, does it always read the same resistance? Have you tried a higher ohm kanthal build to test? Say 1.0ohm or something like that? Something higher than 0.48
And is the variance between the 2 always the same value? (ie: +0.32 ohms or whatever)
That sucks cotay, sorry to hear about the problems. My screen on my dna200 just died on me last night, the one in the BRD1300 box. I'm trying to get Evolv to warranty it, the screen just gradually died over the course of a couple week's with no physical signs of damage or creases in the ribbon cable... I've replaced it with one from a DNA40 large screen temporarily... well in truth, when the replacement screen comes in I'll put IT with the dna40 and leave the dna200 brd1300 box alone. I'm sure continuously removing and replacing those screws can't be good for the plastic posts.
Keep us all posted, I'm curious to know what the eventual solution will be.
(oh last thing, it was mentioned earlier that escribe has a ohm adjustment setting, so you can program your board to read and treat the atty at a given resistance, as I understand it you use this to off set any variance in ohm reading, assuming the increased value is constant across all your builds)
I'm anxious to get the new ERM+ too. I saw that fasttech hotcig box, and I really wanted to order it, but talked myself out of it knowing that what I can build will be of much higher quality overall for roughly the same money (give or take)
Yeah, the same "mill" system as you have, LOL.
I did exactly that, cut the blank a little long with a hacksaw (the buttons are aluminum rod that's been "milled" on one end) then clamped and I used a 1/2" end mill bit since the fire button is made from 1/2" rod. No chatter at all taking, maybe, one or two thousandth off at a time. That was an "eyeball" operation for thickness, then file down to make it fit just right. Next trick, with the buttons, is the outside length.
I've found that the angular speed of the larger diameter bits is an advantage over a smaller bit in many cases.
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