More Resistance = Better Vape With Ti?

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ShowerHead

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I've seen a number of posts about 'weak vape/no flavor/no clouds' and the like.
I got into TC when the SX Mini M was released. STM with both V1 and V2 build decks.
Thinking the recommended values would be the best for the device, I rolled a couple of Ni coils and got to almost .015 ohms.
Real lousy vape at any Joules/Temp combination.
So, I think, 'It's the wicking' and away I go trying different thickness, length, fluff, etc.
Not getting any thing except plenty of practice wrapping coils because the Ni was SO easily deformed pulling the wicks.
I dropped in some Kanthal prebuilt coils and they vaped fine. Along came the Ti test firmware, so I chucked that into the M and tried Ti.
That was somewhat better, but not great.
Along the way, I must have 'Done something', because suddenly the STM was vaping like a champ! Great draw, great flavor, great vapor!
I of course thought it was the wicking and that the coil/wick just got 'broke in'. So I duplicated the build on another STM and put it on.
Nope, not even close. Lousy in every way.
Then I put the other tank back on, and set the resistance as you do when switching tanks. It read .53!
The other read .26
So, I wrapped 28 gauge Ti on my trusty machine screw, a 6/7 wrap (meaning I have 6 full wraps with a 7th starting) and I get a .48
This vapes MUCH better, and I have 4 tanks coiled the same within .02 of each other. All vape quite well for me at 18-22 J and 170-190 C

My empirical evidence is that a higher resistance equals better vape for TC using Ti.
My 6/7 wrap is the most I can squeeze into the STM and I think I'd get a slightly better vape with more resistance.
Anybody with Ti wire to try higher res willing to give it a shot?

I am convinced this is the reason for my lousy experience early on and the good results now. Works the same on the D2 and the Mini M.
 

KenD

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28 gauge for Kanthal, Ni, and Ti. It's all I have ever used.
If you're using the same gauge and type of wire but use more wraps, alternatively have a greater coil id (one of which you do if you get a higher resistance and everything is ok with your builds) then you will have greater surface area.

Sent from my C6903 using Tapatalk
 

ShowerHead

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If you're using the same gauge and type of wire but use more wraps, alternatively have a greater coil id (one of which you do if you get a higher resistance and everything is ok with your builds) then you will have greater surface area.

Yes, I understand that. Point is when I "discovered" this, the coil was already made and was a weak vape. Then 'a miracle' happened (don't know what I did but suspect during rewicking) and it vaped extremely well. I noticed when I swapped tanks after building an identical coil/wick/tank that didn't perform, this one was at a MUCH higher resistance.

Hard to follow, but I didn't simply build higher and wonder what happened. I kind of backed into the higher resistance coils and wonder if resistance made the difference.

And now I know it will be nigh impossible to determine. I had one build that for whatever reason had low wraps but the tank read steady higher resistance. It vaped WAY better than the same coils/wick/tank at lower resistance.

I will not be able to wrap the same wire for the same number of wraps and get that higher resistance. Which is why I build with maximum wraps for my STM, and why I wondered if anyone with a different gauge wire could see what they find by building 2 identical coils with greatly different gauges to see what they experienced with the higher res build of the two.

Guess I'll have to find some larger Ti and give it a try. Back in about a month with results.
 

Nikea Tiber

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Temp control works because nickel and titanium have resistance that varies directly with temperature.
Your mod reads the resistance of the coil at room temperature and uses this as a baseline.
Your mod continues to read the resistance of your atty as it applies power, as it will be ni or ti, as it heats the resistance will change. Based on the initial voltage, it will make a decision of x resistance = y temperature and throttle voltage when x is reached, and re-apply voltage when x drops again (assuming the fire button is still engaged)
All ohm meters only have a certain degree of accuracy. If your starting resistance is higher, and corresponding changes in resistance are based off this starting number, and therefore larger values more easily determined by the onboard resistance meter.
 
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