I'm hoping to assemble it on Wednesday.
fingers crossed!
I'm hoping to assemble it on Wednesday.
I offset the display in the wrong direction, toward the fire button not away from it. .
@Mad Scientist, that looks great. I'm a big fan of repurposing enclosures and transplanting chips to authentic. Nicely done. Any shots of the inside?
Wow that's a lot of variance. Same type of 510? And which type is it?
I do remember reading somewhere that sometimes the spring of the 510 (assuming it's a spring loaded 510) can be what the device reads instead of the atty. (and heats up too)
I'm having a very big difference in ohm readings between two DNA200s with my Freemax Starre Pro with a .15ohm Ni200 coil. One mod reads it at .18ohm while the other reads it as .48ohm. Shall I assume I have a loose connection/bad solder somewhere?
The atomizer or the same brand atomizer?
As an aside, I don't plan on running anything on the 200 other than the reference 510 once I get some.
My 1590G is still in the construction phase. I had too many "chores" to do today to spend much time on it but I did make some progress. The board is mounted to the sled, spacers cut nd screws filed flush. I started cutting down the fire button to fit. Man, there's only about 2mmbetween the switch top and the inside of the case. That is set by the projection of the micro USB connector.
Tomorrow I have a chiropractor appointment that will mess up the morning, but I may have some time to work on it some more. I may re-cut a new fire button, I'm not really happy with this one but will wait until both sides have been cut to length to make a decision.
The board that reads 0.48ohms, does it always read the same resistance? Have you tried a higher ohm kanthal build to test? Say 1.0ohm or something like that? Something higher than 0.48Yup, both are identical VT 510s. I opened the mod up and played around with the wiring while firing it, which didn't result in any change in variance. I ordered some additional 510s from Varitube today and will swap it out when they come in. It very well could be that the mod is reading the spring...I had to drill out the 510 for the 14ga. wire, so maybe I messed something up in the process. Oh well...two big issues in one day...a dead board and wonky 510. At least I have one good DNA200 running at the moment (my C-Frame).
I'm anxious to get the new ERM+ too. I saw that fasttech hotcig box, and I really wanted to order it, but talked myself out of it knowing that what I can build will be of much higher quality overall for roughly the same money (give or take)The atomizer or the same brand atomizer?
As an aside, I don't plan on running anything on the 200 other than the reference 510 once I get some.
If I remember right, you have a similar "poor man's mill" as mine. Can you just clamp the buttons in the vise and mill them to the correct depth? I've had a lot of success milling small parts. Fast tool speed and slow feed rates seem to work the best. With the small parts involved and a small, end cutting mill (I use 1/8" -- actually got them from Sears catalog for about 4 bucks a piece), chatter has not been an issue.
. . . I've found that the angular speed of the larger diameter bits is an advantage over a smaller bit in many cases.