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tchavei

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From where did you get your Ti?

If it were me (and please remember I'm OCD about this stuff), I would do this ultimate test:

1. Setup a tcr in escribe linear 0.0035

2. Wick the coil and soak the wick in water

3. Set watts to around 15W and temp to around 350F

4. Fire the mod for 3 seconds and check the displayed temp.

If displayed temp was around 212F/100C, I would be happy and tcr is 0.0035

If the temp was significantly different, I would try another tcr (0.0042 for example) and I would keep playing until I could find a tcr that would bring me almost spot on to 212F. That would be the closest to the real tcr of the wire.



Regards
Tony

Sent from my keyboard through my phone or something like that.
 

dwcraig1

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I agree, a juice transport issue. And/or airflow. Both can cause dimished wattage. Tc is great for dialing in my wicking method. With temp fixed and regulated I can view my wattage while looking in a mirror. I take 4-5 sec pulls to see how well the juice supply is keeping up. Small changes in wicking density or orientation can make sizeable differences in power delivery with my STmini V1 RBAs. The best I've achieved so far with the STminis on my VT60s is hovering at around 30w at 510°f with 75vg on a Ti build. Not sure exactly what the "real" temp is; maybe somewhere around 420? I have definitety been schooled by temp control on how to wick for power.
With EScribe with live view that all becomes quite easier than with other TP mods.
 

dwcraig1

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From where did you get your Ti?

If it were me (and please remember I'm OCD about this stuff), I would do this ultimate test:

1. Setup a tcr in escribe linear 0.0035

2. Wick the coil and soak the wick in water

3. Set watts to around 15W and temp to around 350F

4. Fire the mod for 3 seconds and check the displayed temp.

If displayed temp was around 212F/100C, I would be happy and tcr is 0.0035

If the temp was significantly different, I would try another tcr (0.0042 for example) and I would keep playing until I could find a tcr that would bring me almost spot on to 212F. That would be the closest to the real tcr of the wire.



Regards
Tony

Sent from my keyboard through my phone or something like that.
From here: Jump Rings Clasps EarWires Jewelry Kits Wire by UnkamenSupplies
Oh but I am over joyed with how it's working, I just thought I would finally mention it. I took me awhile as I didn't want to run afoul with the calculater guys.
I have some more (cheap) Ti coming from FT, I'll see how it compares to what I have.
 
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TheBloke

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What would be the 0.28mm equivalent of NiFe52? Even higher than Resistherm?

I posted these numbers a couple of days back, see below. I compared 29G Resistherm, Kanthal NiFe70 and Kanthal NiFe52 at the end of the post, and higher up I compared NiFe70 and NiFe52 in more usual/higher gauges.

Conclusion: NiFe52's resistance is very slightly higher than Resistherm's, making it the highest resistance wire of all of the known NiFes, and this, combined with its range of thicker gauges, is what makes it preferable over all (at least on paper).

That said, I would take NiFe70 @ 26G with its lower resistance over Resistherm @ 29G with its better resistance. NiFe70's resistance is not so low as to make it bad (unlike Ni200). And of course NiFe70 will be much cheaper than Resistherm.

So Nife70 is certainly going to be a great wire. But so far NiFe52 looks a clear winner, expected to be available both in thicker gauges and at a usefully higher resistance.

In the next couple of weeks I'll do a summary of all these different NiFes. I'll wait for the new wires to be available so we can see exactly what they offer.

OK, here's one useful difference between NiFe52 and NiFe70 - the resistance of 52 is higher, very usefully higher.

From the datasheets:
Putting that into numbers for useful gauges from the American Wire Gauge chart.
  • 29G is 0.064 mm^2
  • 28G is 0.081 mm^2
  • 26G is 0.129 mm^2
  • 24G is 0.205 mm^2
Therefore:
  • NiFe70
    • 28G: 0.20 / 0.081 = 2.47Ω/m
      • An 8 wrap x 3mm ID coil is approx 100mm = 0.247Ω
    • 26G: 0.20 / 0.129 = 1.55Ω/m
      • An 8 wrap x 3mm ID coil is approx 100mm = 0.155Ω
    • 24G: 0.20 / 0.205 = 0.98Ω/m
      • An 8 wrap x 3mm ID coil is approx 100mm = 0.098Ω
  • NiFe52:
    • 28G: 0.37 / 0.081 = 4.57Ω/m
      • An 8 wraps, 3mm ID coil is approx 100mm = 0.457Ω
    • 26G: 0.37 / 0.129 = 2.87Ω/m
      • An 8 wraps, 3mm ID coil is approx 100mm = 0.287Ω
    • 24G: 0.37 / 0.205 = 1.80Ω/m
      • An 8 wraps, 3mm ID coil is approx 100mm = 0.180Ω

That is very interesting.

26G is currently my usual gauge, but I do 24G coils in a couple of atomizers. With NiFe70, 24G @ < 0.1Ω is definitely out as far as I'm concerned. I have several mods with a 0.1Ω lower limit, and I don't want to be forced to add wraps, and especially not do the build/check resistance/damn it's too low/adjust/check.. dance that I remember with loathing from my Ni200 days.

I don't even want to be building to 0.155Ω as a matter of course either, if I can avoid it.

For one thing, it's less accurate overall: the lower the coil resistance, the higher the error from static resistance in the atomizer. 0.01Ω of Static Resistance in an atomizer causes a 20°C temperature inaccuracy for a 0.12Ω coil, compared to only 2.5°C of inaccuracy for a 0.50Ω coil. (FYI the coil wire/TCR is irrelevant to the level of inaccuracy from SR; the same numbers apply for Ni200, Titanium, etc.)

Therefore I like to build to higher resistances when I can. Not to mention the reduced power/battery requirements. And low resistance can rule out dual coil and more exotic builds with thicker and twisted wires. Exactly as we see with Ni200.

NiFe52 on the other hand has a reasonable resistance range. A little lower than Titanium, but higher than Resistherm NiFe30. I have a couple of 24G Titanium builds right now, and they come out to 0.28Ω, compared to 0.18Ω for NiFe52 @ 24G. It's under 0.20Ω but it's doable. And my standard coils of 26G @ 0.287Ω is fine.

We talked earlier about Dicodes and their Resistherm decision. Let's add a resistance comparison to that, comparing against the 29G that Dicodes supply Resistherm in:
  • NiFe70 @ 29G: 0.20 / 0.064 = 3.13Ω/m
  • NiFe52 @ 29G: 0.37 / 0.064 = 5.78Ω/m
Dicodes' Resistherm @ 29G is 5.5Ω/m. So it beats NiFe70, but loses to NiFe52 (only just.)

So the question is, is NiFe52 just as good for vaping as NiFe70 / Alloy 120 / Resistherm NiFe30? It's definitely different - all the other wires we've looked at are 70% Ni, this is 52%.

So if we're giving Dicodes the benefit of the doubt, maybe NiFe52 is not as good for some reason.

I hope we'll be able to find out very soon when Thomas@Zivipf's gets his NiFe52 :)
 
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TheBloke

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Updates/Summary on NiFe availability:
  • NiFe52:
    • ZiVipf: Thomas said he thinks it takes 14 days from order to arrive to him.
      • Order was placed 28th August, so hopefully the ETA for the NiFe52 is around September 11th, 8 days from now.
      • He's going to send it to me as soon as he gets it, so hopefully I'll have it to start testing w/c 14th September.
      • Sizes will be: 0.25; 0,28; 0.32; 0.35; 0,40mm (30 - 26G)
    • US supplier: there's an unknown, mystery US supplier who will announce availability on September 15th at Vape Mania (according to @WileE)
  • NiFe70:
    • ZiVipf: 30 & 29G already available, and Thomas is ordering in larger gauges as well, unknown ETA
    • New EU supplier: There's going to be a second supplier of NiFe70-like wire in the EU.
      • I don't yet know ETA and I haven't yet had confirmation I'm OK to reveal the source.
      • But we can bank on there being at least two EU suppliers of NiFe70 wire in the near future.
      • This supplier, like ZiVipf, will have a useful range of gauges, topping out at 0.4 / 26G
 
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Mad Scientist

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I posted these numbers a couple of days back, see below. I compared 29G Resistherm, Kanthal NiFe70 and Kanthal NiFe52 at the end of the post, and higher up I compared NiFe70 and NiFe52 in more usual/higher gauges.

Conclusion: NiFe52's resistance is very slightly higher than Resistherm's, making it the highest resistance wire of all of the known NiFes, and this, combined with its range of thicker gauges, is what makes it preferable over all (at least on paper).

That said, I would take NiFe70 @ 26G with its lower resistance over Resistherm @ 29G with its better resistance. NiFe70's resistance is not so low as to make it bad (unlike Ni200). And of course NiFe70 will be much cheaper than Resistherm.

So Nife70 is certainly going to be a great wire. But so far NiFe52 looks a clear winner, expected to be available both in thicker gauges and at a usefully higher resistance.

In the next couple of weeks I'll do a summary of all these different NiFes. I'll wait for the new wires to be available so we can see exactly what they offer.

Sorry if this has already been discussed a lot (I suspect it has) but what would you say are the advantages of NiFe alloys over Ti? I'm very interested to try new wires but what am i getting in to with NiFe?

My seat of the pants has always been higher TCR coupled with higher cold resistance of a coil, the more accurate the TC performance is going to be just based on how TC works. Have you found this to be true in practice?

(and I've finally gotten my own thermocouple project to the top of the "get to it" que -- hope to be able to post some data soon)
 

balazsk

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If only I could find some detailed TFR orR@different temp data for it:)

Finally I have found it for Pernifer36 what is similar to Nifethal36. However we have seen the difference between Resistherm and Nifethal70.
http://www.vdm-metals.com/fileadmin/user_upload/Downloads/Data_Sheets/Data_Sheet_VDM_Alloy_36.pdf
I have calculated the TCR for 20-200°C: 0.00117. Yes, it is similar to SS304.
The resistivity is also similar to stainless steel: 0.84 per mm^2/m.

There are so much more alloys what could be applicable for TC.
Nice comparison sheet about the products/names:
Alloy Cross Reference | Coil elements, resistance wire, kilns, foam cutting | Resistance Wire | A Division of Hyndman
 

TheBloke

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Sorry if this has already been discussed a lot (I suspect it has) but what would you say are the advantages of NiFe alloys over Ti? I'm very interested to try new wires but what am i getting in to with NiFe?

My seat of the pants has always been higher TCR coupled with higher cold resistance of a coil, the more accurate the TC performance is going to be just based on how TC works. Have you found this to be true in practice?

(and I've finally gotten my own thermocouple project to the top of the "get to it" que -- hope to be able to post some data soon)

Yes, higher TCR and higher cold resistance = ultimate accuracy. That said, as soon as we're in the TCR range of 0.003 and above, I'm not entirely sure that TCR makes a huge amount of difference. I have no problem measuring a Titanium or Resistherm coil at 0.0035/0.0032 at exact temp, just like I had no problem with Ni200 @ 0.006.

It does matter when the TCR is down to 0.001 like Stainless, but I can't say I've noticed accuracy differences between the 30s (eg Titanium) and higher (eg Ni200.)

But if TCR does matter, then Kanthal NiFe70 @ 0.0052 and NiFe52 @ 0.004 are both a little higher than Titanium. (Then there's another NiFe70-like wire that's going to be around 0.004 as well.)

And actually, maybe the difference will come based on the qualities of the mod itself. I did my temp measuring primarily on the Dicodes and the DNA 40 - good mods. The few times I tested the cheap SXK mods, they were "within 20°C". Maybe cheap mods like that would be more accurate with higher TCR materials, where the top mods can be supremely accurate all the way down to 0.003? I'm not entirely sure.

But anyway, the NiFes with the exception of expensive/limited-size Resistherm are all higher TCR than all other materials except Ni200, and Ni200 sucks, so it may be moot for this discussion.

Here's a post I wrote recently explaining the various benefits of wires versus each other - add all the different sections together and NiFe52 comes out top, just ahead of NiFe70, and both ahead of Titanium on account mostly of dry burnability, but also hopefully strength/lack of springiness (awaiting confirmation once we have the proper gauges of NiFe70 and NiFe52 available.)

Depends what you want to compare it against.

Versus Ni200: Titanium, Stainless Steel and NiFe wire has the following advantages:
  1. Higher resistance
    1. Enables (much easier) use of thicker wires, twisted wires, dual coils; and in general, just makes building easier
    2. Is more accurate for TC than coils of lower resistance
    3. Uses less power and therefore less battery
  2. Micro/contact coils are possible
    1. Ni200 can't be used for micro/contact coils, and this limits certain builds
    2. Even though I can now use contact coils again, I find I don't do them the majority of the time because they gunk more. But it's nice to have the option, and sometimes they are the best or easiest build in a given deck.
    3. Besides which it's nice not having to be very careful to make sure the coil is 100% spaced all the way around - easier, quicker building.
  3. Low, or zero nickel content
    1. Some people are allergic to nickel. It is not regarded as hugely safe.
  4. Stronger, easier to work with
    1. Varies by wire, but generally all the wires are easy to work with where Ni200 is not.
  5. Better taste
    1. Not something I've noticed, but some people have reported better taste from Titanium and Stainless Steel than Ni200
Versus Titanium and Ni200: Stainless Steel and NiFe have the following advantages:
  1. Dry burnable
    1. Just like Kanthal, these wires can be dry burnt in VW mode
    2. This means they can be easily cleaned when changing juice, just by dry burning them to clear off all residue
    3. It also means the coil can be fired before going into TC mode, to check it is glowing nicely inside-out : just like we do/did with Kanthal. This is especially important for micro/contact coils, but I like to do it with all builds and sometimes I find an uneven glow, and fix the problem before I go to TC.
  2. Strength and lack of springiness
    1. Titanium is very springy, and is annealed to make it less so
    2. But it's still quite springy even after annealing
    3. And the annealing makes it very soft. It can therefore break quite easily, especially in through-post atomizers.

Stainless Steel has the following major disadvantage compared to all other wires mentioned:
  1. It has the lowest TCR, right at the low end of current TC technology.
    1. Therefore it requires a TC mod with TCR adjustment
    2. And even with such a mod, it can only be accurate to around the nearest 20-30°C, compared to 5°C on other wires.
    3. This doesn't mean it gives a poor TC vape, it just means you might end up setting a different temperature than you expect; maybe 215°C instead of 225°C.

Finally, Kanthal NiFe52 has the following advantage versus Kanthal NiFe70/30:
  1. Higher resistance
    1. Kanthal NiF30/70 has quite low resistance, not as low as Ni200 but lower than all others mentioned
    2. NiFe52 has resistance nearly as high as Titanium
    3. This makes NiFe52 preferable to NiFe30/70, for the reasons mentioned under the Ni200 section (though not to the same extent.)

Putting this all together, NiFe52 has the most advantages overall, followed closely by NiFe70, with both having two useful advantages over Titanium. Stainless Steel shares those advantages, but loses out on TC accuracy and the fact that it requires a TCR adjusting mod, which are still very much in the minority.

Until just now, the NiFes had a major disadvantage of their own - only available up to 0.28mm / 29G. But now that disadvantage appears to be going away, they are coming to the fore.

To be clear, Titanium is still a great wire. I use it every day and have for weeks. I would use it over Ni200 in a heart beat. It's just I believe NiFe52 comes out top in these two useful regards.

Sorry for the length, but as you can see there are various advantages/disadvantages to each, so it's a process of layering advantages by which we get to, in my view, the 'ultimate' TC wire :)
 
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BigEgo

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From whe

re did you get your Ti?

If it were me (and please remember I'm OCD about this stuff), I would do this ultimate test:

1. Setup a tcr in escribe linear 0.0035

2. Wick the coil and soak the wick in water

3. Set watts to around 15W and temp to around 350F

4. Fire the mod for 3 seconds and check the displayed temp.

If displayed temp was around 212F/100C, I would be happy and tcr is 0.0035

If the temp was significantly different, I would try another tcr (0.0042 for example) and I would keep playing until I could find a tcr that would bring me almost spot on to 212F. That would be the closest to the real tcr of the wire.

That would work unless you live in the mountains. ;)

Also NiFe seems gimmicky to me. From the name, it looks like a Nickel and Iron alloy. For those of us wanting to avoid nickel, it's a non-starter.

Moreover, the Iron would almost certainly make it not as good for temp control compared to a pure element. Pure elements (platinum usually) are used in RTD's for a reason.

I am waiting for a mod that accepts platinum wire. I want temp control with some bling. I will buy me one of those $200K diamond coated mods from Serbia and put some platinum wire in it. Bling, baby.
 
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TheBloke

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That would work unless you live in the mountains. ;)

Also NiFe seems gimmicky to me. From the name, it looks like a Nickel and Iron alloy. For those of us wanting to avoid nickel, it's a non-starter.

Moreover, the Iron would almost certainly make it not as good for temp control compared to a pure element. Pure elements (platinum usually) are used in RTD's for a reason.

I am waiting for a mod that accepts platinum wire. I want temp control with some bling. I will buy me one of those $200K diamond coated mods from Serbia and put some platinum wire in it. Bling, baby.

It is a Nickel/Iron alloy. Either 70% Nickel or 52%. We're awaiting confirmation of whether that's too much Nickel for those with sensitivities, but we have a willing test subject.

It's perfectly accurate for TC vaping, something I have confirmed. For TC vaping, it's the TCRs that count. We're not talking making RTDs here.

Not sure how a wire can be a gimmick. The attributes it has are the attributes it has, as I've outlined - you either value those attributes or you don't. If you don't want dry burnability, then Titanium is a great wire. Personally I prefer having a dry burnable coil, and I also hope/expect the NiFes to be a bit stronger and less springy.

As for Platinum, you're in luck. There's now a mod that supports it, the Wotofo Tiny. I did some research on Platinum wiring costs two or three pages back. It's an investment for sure, but if you want that the ultimate street cred you gotta pay, right? Unfortunately the mod itself only costs $50, so they've messed things up for the diamond-studded crowd.

(More usefully, as the TCR of Platinum is almost identical to that of NiFe52, it looks like the Wotofo Tiny will allow TC vaping of NiFe52 without temperature offsets.)
 

Mad Scientist

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It is a Nickel/Iron alloy. Either 70% Nickel or 52%. We're awaiting confirmation of whether that's too much Nickel for those with sensitivities, but we have a willing test subject.

It's perfectly accurate for TC vaping, something I have confirmed. For TC vaping, it's the TCRs that count. We're not talking making RTDs here.

Not sure how a wire can be a gimmick. The attributes it has are the attributes it has, as I've outlined - you either value those attributes or you don't. If you don't want dry burnability, then Titanium is a great wire. Personally I prefer having a dry burnable coil, and I also hope/expect the NiFes to be a bit stronger and less springy.

As for Platinum, you're in luck. There's now a mod that supports it, the Wotofo Tiny. I did some research on Platinum wiring costs two or three pages back. It's an investment for sure, but if you want that the ultimate street cred you gotta pay, right? Unfortunately the mod itself only costs $50, so they've messed things up for the diamond-studded crowd.

(More usefully, as the TCR of Platinum is almost identical to that of NiFe52, it looks like the Wotofo Tiny will allow TC vaping of NiFe52 without temperature offsets.)

Given the pricing of resistitherm, might as well use platinum lol.
 

TheBloke

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Given the pricing of resistitherm, might as well use platinum lol.

A man after my own heart. This is how I justify all my purchases. "If I'm going to spend £15, I may as well spend £30 for this extra benefit. Now, if I'm going to spend £30, I should really spend £45 for this benefit. If I'm going to spend £45.."

(Though Resistherm to Platinum is still a little more of a jump than even I am able to justify :) )
 

BigEgo

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If you don't want dry burnability, then Titanium is a great wire. Personally I prefer having a dry burnable coil, and I also hope/expect the NiFes to be a bit stronger and less springy.

I suppose it depends on what you mean by dry burning. Titanium should be able to handle a certain degree of heat without catching fire. Is it a good idea to throw 100 watts at a dry coil for 5 seconds? Probably not. But I doubt there would be an issue pulsing 10 watts through it for 1-2 seconds. I agree Titanium might not be the best wire for the "masses" because of the fire hazard (which can't be put out with water).

If we just want accuracy, then we can merely stick with nickel (you can get it tempered which makes it easy to coil). You might have to change the TCR for tempered wire (it will vary slightly from annealed) but it's not a big deal. We want to avoid overheating our liquid and creating acrolein and various other carbonyls that are present in non-TC vapor. We also want to avoid dry hits. Nickel is good enough for that. But there's the problem of nickel itself being a heavy metal and one of the more toxic metals at that. We know from various studies that metals DO leach into the vapor, even at "normal" temps (i.e. the wire does not have to get anywhere near its melting point to release particulate matter). This is true for NiChrome for sure (nickel has been found in the vapor from nichrome wire, which is common in older clearos). Sure, the amounts are small, but metal toxicity is cumulative over time. Who knows what the effects of vaping nickel over 5, 10, 20 years would be? Hell, who knows what the effect of FeCrAl (Kanthal) is over time?

Titanium is not a heavy metal and is inert in the human body. There is a question about TiO2 being toxic (it has been found to cause cancer in rodents). However, human studies have found no connection between TiO2 inhalation and cancer (various studies of factory workers). But, really, it depends on the particle size. Nano particles in general can be deleterious to human health (though it is still debated whether the element matters or if it is simply a function of size and surface area). So, we would need studies done on the size of the TiO2 particles being emitted into the vapor (or whether any TiO2 gets emitted at all). Thus far, there are no such studies, though I hear some are in the works.

So, in theory, Ti seems like the best option for a coil. It's inert, not a "heavy metal" (which are typically the ones you want to avoid) and allows for temperature control. The downside is that it can be a fire hazard and there's the question about Titanium dioxide.
 

TheBloke

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Well check out the list of comparisons I re-posted for Mad Scientist.

What I mean by dry burning is you can fire the coil exactly like Kanthal. Not little careful bursts, but holding fire down @ 30W or more until it glows bright. I do that to clean it between changing juices, and to pre-fire the coil before coming to TC to check it glows inside-out, like we did with Kanthal. That's very useful for micro/contact or near-micro/contact coils. Less vital for spaced, but I still like to do it when possible and sometimes I find glitches I can fix.

I never do that for Titanium, because I've found the slightest too much power and it goes grey or even breaks. I know some do it carefully, such as @cigatron . But as general advice, I don't consider it dry burnable - certainly not for testing the coil to see it's glowing evenly.

Ni200 has a bunch of disadvantages, headed by its ultra low resistance which limits usable builds, useful wire gauges, inhibits ultimate TC accuracy, and draws more power and thus more battery for a given size of coil.

I would use any of the wires discussed in this thread over Ni200, including Stainless Steel with its limited accuracy - at least on the TCR adjusting mods I have that can use it.

Titanium is a great wire, I have and still am using it extensively. I've done three Titanium builds just this morning. If the NiFes didn't exist I would continue using it happily.

But I do prefer the small but useful extra benefits the NiFes provide. I like to be able to dry burn whenever I want. I find Titanium quite weak and springy, and - at least in the thinner gauges currently available - NiFe is less so.

The major raft of benefits comes from not using Ni200. After that, we're talking small % differences. I can't and don't claim NiFe is as a big a difference compared to Titanium as Titanium is from Ni200. But nor does it have to be - it is, at least in my view, a bit better, and soon it will be widely available and at the same cost, so why not use it?

The only question mark I suppose is metal safety. As you say, Titanium is known to be inert, but also has an unknown/varying Dioxide risk which theoretically should never happen but might sometimes. Ditto the fire hazard shouldn't happen, but could occasionally. As for NiFe, well I don't know - maybe it's much less safe, maybe it's the same.

Given that we all know so little about wire safety, I am not including that in my discussions - I can't, I have no data. We know a few miscellaneous facts about them all, and no idea the overall picture.

So far I'm considering purely vaping factors alone - how does it vape? And in that, for me, NiFe is coming out a winner. If tomorrow someone does a study and finds risks, that could change everything: but in my (layman's) view it's just as likely they could find that in Titanium, Stainless Steel or any other wire. We just don't know at this stage.

I do however consider a higher maximum temperature to be a plus, so I'm generally happier with the 600°C/1110°F of NiFes versus the ~ 300°C of Ni200 and (I think?) 400°C of Titanium. Not that we should ever be taking Titanium to 400°C, but mishaps such as shorting do happen.

But as I say, we don't really know, it's all speculation.

What I do is test stuff and post the results, and my opinion of that result. It's up to individual vapers to decide if that is of interest to them and act, or not, accordingly.
 

tomr1088

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Figured I'd post this here as well. This is my post from another thread regarding my experience with ssv ti wire.

Just an update. I recently got some of the .5mm (24g) wire from sweet spot and I gotta say I'm impressed. It was pricey at 30 bucks per 50 feet but cheaper than buying ten feet at a dollar per foot. It last me longer than a nickel build and seems to gunk up less. I have the sweet spot dna200 profile on my mod and I gotta say the temp control vape is astounding. I get such awesome vapor and it's super consistent. I am in love and I notice I get a clean flavor too. Easy to build with and doesn't snap. Get to do crazier builds and the wattage outputs without throttling down so quick with ni200. I notice it will hold its set wattage even 80 watts on a 10 wrap dual and then when temp limit it reached it will protect super quick. So instead of powering lower and lower as it comes to temp it actually holds the power and ramps down really quick only when the temp is reached. Hard to explain but I've never had this good of a temp experience. Loving it. Figured people would wanna know. Worth the money spent considering I can clean and re wick a few times. I clean by using a clean small wire brush while heating the wire to a temp of 450 degrees F.
 

dwcraig1

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Figured I'd post this here as well. This is my post from another thread regarding my experience with ssv ti wire.

Just an update. I recently got some of the .5mm (24g) wire from sweet spot and I gotta say I'm impressed. It was pricey at 30 bucks per 50 feet but cheaper than buying ten feet at a dollar per foot. It last me longer than a nickel build and seems to gunk up less. I have the sweet spot dna200 profile on my mod and I gotta say the temp control vape is astounding. I get such awesome vapor and it's super consistent. I am in love and I notice I get a clean flavor too. Easy to build with and doesn't snap. Get to do crazier builds and the wattage outputs without throttling down so quick with ni200. I notice it will hold its set wattage even 80 watts on a 10 wrap dual and then when temp limit it reached it will protect super quick. So instead of powering lower and lower as it comes to temp it actually holds the power and ramps down really quick only when the temp is reached. Hard to explain but I've never had this good of a temp experience. Loving it. Figured people would wanna know. Worth the money spent considering I can clean and re wick a few times. I clean by using a clean small wire brush while heating the wire to a temp of 450 degrees F.
I see that you are only comparing the SSV wire to Ni200, have you compared the SSV Ti to other "brands of Ti?
 

tomr1088

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I see that you are only comparing the SSV wire to Ni200, have you compared the SSV Ti to other "brands of Ti?

I have not no. Just reporting my findings. I was trying to figure out what titanium wire I wanted and after seeing the effort they put into it I decided on it
 

TheBloke

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I see that you are only comparing the SSV wire to Ni200, have you compared the SSV Ti to other "brands of Ti?

Yeah this is the key.

Thanks for the update, @tomr1088 , it certainly is interesting to hear from a real user of SSV.

However everything you said could also apply to Titanium. So far the only information we've been given to justify SSV's eye-watering prices is a load of techno-babble from the manufacturer which real Titanium engineers have said is nonsense. That has immediately raised our suspicions a great deal. So our opinion of the wire, on the evidence so far available, has to be that it's far too highly priced. That it vapes well is no surprise because normal Titanium vapes well too.

If you ever do get a chance to try normal Titanium Grade 1, we'd be very interested in a comparison with that.
 

tomr1088

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Yeah this is the key.

Thanks for the update, @tomr1088 , it certainly is interesting to hear from a real user of SSV.

However everything you said could also apply to Titanium. So far the only information we've been given to justify SSV's eye-watering prices is a load of techno-babble which real Titanium engineers have said is nonsense. That has immediately raised our suspicions a great deal. So our opinion of the wire, on the evidence so far available, has to be that it's far too highly priced. That it vapes well is no surprise because normal Titanium vapes well too.

If you ever do get a chance to try normal Titanium Grade 1, we'd be very interested in a comparison with that.
Which wire is everyone getting and from where. I was Leary on eBay wires and the spider silk was the same price and thinner than I wanted. Also yes their whole speech on titanium didn't interest me either especially how they said every wire and gauge needs calibrations. It should al have the same tcr values. But their curve for the dna200 does work better than the original tcr curve off steam engine. But also the steam engine curves are a baseline and give a good approximate value for temp.
 
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