Should have said Dreaming of fishing.
Can't even turn a real with this injury
Two summers gone and the boat just sits on the Driveway starring as I slowly walk by
IPV D2 announced.
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Should have said Dreaming of fishing.
Can't even turn a real with this injury
Two summers gone and the boat just sits on the Driveway starring as I slowly walk by
That's just too much coil mass for the 50J max the D2 can output. Drop down to 10 wraps per coil, shooting for about 0.08 ohms, see if you like that better (you should).
And you might want to try moving the coils up to at least between the post holes, if not a bit higher, for best flavor. It looks like you used a lot more cotton than necessary, try to make sure there's a clear air path beneath the coils not blocked by cotton, you should be able to see daylight underneath both coils.
And you might want to try moving the coils up to at least between the post holes, if not a bit higher, for best flavor. It looks like you used a lot more cotton than necessary, try to make sure there's a clear air path beneath the coils not blocked by cotton, you should be able to see daylight underneath both coils.
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Finally got my tempered Ni200 in today. This is my first ever nickel build. I put 8 wraps of 28 gauge around a 2.4mm bit inside the subtank mini. I think it Ohms out slightly below 0.1. Went off without a hitch on my first attempt.
Vaping it at 450 F right now at 28J. Very nice vape. Not as warm as I was used to, but still good. The taste is a touch different than Kanthal. I am still trying to determine if I taste any "fish" like some people complain about, but I haven't thus far.
It is interesting to never have to think about dry hits or "am I hitting this too long" that invariably happened before with my subtank. Even at only 20 watts, if I took more than about a 2 second drag, I could hear the coil crackling as it got dry at the end of the pull. Now I can hit it all day and the vape is exactly the same all the way through the pull, no matter how long the pull is. It really is a different kind of experience.
Now my goal is to determine whether the Joule setting really matters (since the device throttles the Joules down depending on temp anyway). I don't think it makes any difference how high you set it as long as you set it high enough to reach temp.
Vaping it at 450 F right now at 28J. Very nice vape. Not as warm as I was used to, but still good. The taste is a touch different than Kanthal. I am still trying to determine if I taste any "fish" like some people complain about, but I haven't thus far.
It is interesting to never have to think about dry hits or "am I hitting this too long" that invariably happened before with my subtank. Even at only 20 watts, if I took more than about a 2 second drag, I could hear the coil crackling as it got dry at the end of the pull. Now I can hit it all day and the vape is exactly the same all the way through the pull, no matter how long the pull is. It really is a different kind of experience.
Now my goal is to determine whether the Joule setting really matters (since the device throttles the Joules down depending on temp anyway). I don't think it makes any difference how high you set it as long as you set it high enough to reach temp.
I agree its a bit clumsy as it can retract off center. There are better solutions but it does the job and its secure at least mine is.I've been using it with one, even two o-rings for some really long attys, without any troubles. Of course, you should check the proper connection before start running them, but they connect, they got insulated (actually, air tight) on the 510 and they force it, by the minimum extent, the spring-loaded mechanism.
Plus, they do not scratch the paint job in the mod....
Apropos the 510, it's true that almost no 510 is leaking-proof. FatDaddy's can leak some drops, if flooded, when the core pin goes up and down. I had to insulate one with thermal glue for that reason, and it worked, but with a slow response to movements.
This P4Y solution is a bit clumsy, because it renders a weak core pole, prone to get stumbled and risking both the pin and the washer which raises it, even if very few people have complained about this. But it's air-tight behind the washer... just remember to clean from time to time, or when there is a strong evidence of liquids, condensation, even dust, getting behind the washer (by the gap I showed you in my earlier post). Isopropyl alcohol and a q-tip would be your friends there.
This choice is also mine, as a long time user of many kind of appliances that get current with those connectors. I haven't been fully understood in my usual forums, everybody likes the microUSB, even if it is prone to bad connections with time and dust, or prone to get misaligned in those extremely small pins. If any, I'd rather prefer miniUSB, it's sturdier and for mods and alike, it's not so big.
Not to mention that it lacks of symmetry, and every time you try to plug it, it's backwards......
But tablets, smart-phones and even thinner toys (do you remember those Bluetooth earbuds?) pulled a really fast one in those matters......we cannot win!....
Im for sure gonna try a couple I need to replace the HE2's I use in my raptor box. They have been great battery's so im sure the HG4's are even better. I used to get 12-14 hrs per set of cells. Im getting about 10 hrs now but they are almost a year old so they need to hit the dumpster.
Ok I got a D2 tonight and I have what might be a silly question. So when my screen is off and I hit the up button it does nothing. After I wake the screen either by touching the fire button or the down button the up button works perfectly. Is that the way this is designed or is it a flaw in my unit?
Let me correct myself. They are HG2's not HG4's. Don't want to confuse anyone. Nonetheless they are good batteries.
Well, on this one, do not take me too seriously.....
I'm not an expert on nickel building (and anything else, for that matter...) but my attempts at dual coils have been less than desirable so far. Even if I count the turns closely and wrap all them evenly spaced, they start quite well, but as fouling goes up between the turns, sooner than later one of the coils gets a little bit under the other in resistance, or airing, or whatsoever...... and start to burn things unless you set ridiculously down the temperature.
So, for the time being, I've given up in dual coils. Just single ones work fine to my vaping ways (I suppose I'm what you funnily call 'tottle puffer', I think).
I usually wrap AWG26 Ni-200, so dual coils end up being massive metalwork, and even if the D2 goes with them like a champion, when one of the coils goes downhill.....
Here it is what Spaniard users have found about that, so far....
Just recently started up, the screen show the logos, and goes off. If you click the fire button, it shows the current setting, but just for a very brief time. You should enter the menus, of click three times to fix temporarily that, getting the current setting for about 3-4 seconds.
If you take a hit, the screen goes immediately to low brightness and consumption after you release the button. And that's the normal cycling....brighter during the hit (fire button pressed), dimmer in stand-by. But in about one minute it goes off....well mostly of the times. We've discovered that for any apparent reason sometimes it does not go off, and remains in dim mode for minutes and minutes... until next hit or menu action. It is not clear why, if it is a bug or there is something perfectly normal that triggers that behaviour, like battery voltage readings unstable after a hard hit at high power, or others.
Once the screen goes off, and very much like when the device is just started, with three clicks you get the brighter screen for about 3-4 seconds. My guess is that it is so you can read the screen in some difficult situations, like in bright sunlight. Sorrily enough, it does not do that in screen on, dim mode, stand-by, when three click goes to nothing different.
At first we suspected some special trigger to activate or deactivate a low power mode. Some folks even suggested that a brief touch in both up/down buttons, like when you set the resistance, but very short, to avoid that setting, triggers something. Well, in my experience it is not that way, and the 'brief pressure' in both up/down buttons ends up, half the times, in a wrong-calibrated base resistance...
BTW, it might be crucial to check firmware options. Perhaps some folks have different versions running their D2's. Mine, like almost all reviewed ones, it doesn't matter if they have the 'TEST' label under the battery or not, showed 'SX130H V2.0'. You can get it pressing the fire button and putting the battery at once, like all YiHi chips do.
The HG2s looks to be well suited to the IPV D2 and similar TC devices, but they are just a bit pricey. I'm sure they are probably worth it in the long run though. I picked up three (3) Efest IMR 18650 2800mah 35A batteries for about $8-$10 each (bought them from different sites at different times) for use in my D2 when I initially ordered it. That was because using a 20A or more capacity battery (some said 30A) was what websites selling the D2 were recommending. I'm currently just using the device to power a Nautilus Mini for mouth-to-lung hits at 10-12 watts, without TC (though I've briefly used it for TC before that with other coils). For that purpose the Efest batteries are working just fine. I typically chain vape fairly frequently, but the Efest batteries will still last me all day long, and then some on occasion. I wouldn't mind later on using LG or Samsung 3000mah batteries instead. I just won't bother doing that until the Efest batteries give out on me. That looks like that won't happen for quite awhile.
Am I the only person "tootle puffing" with the IPV D2? It certainly seems like it at times. I don't even use TC anymore, but I'm getting some Nautilus Mini replacement parts and another Nautilus Mini that I'll be using to try TC again in the near future. My current Nautilus Mini had a broken floating pin assembly that finally completely gave out on me when the spring fell out and got lost. The clearomizer was over a year old, so I guess that happening shouldn't surprise me, but I'd hardly used it before, so that was a pretty of annoying surprise. Because of that, for the moment, I'm not even using the D2, as I've got nothing decent to run on it for MTL. The Subtank Mini and the OBS T-VCT tanks just weren't cutting it for me for that purpose. Even after fixing the Nautilus Mini, the Vapor Shark ni200 Nautilus coils I have might still disappoint me. I have had nothing but trouble using stock ni200 coils so far, even in tanks other than the Nautilus Mini. They don't seem to be very dependable. They just don't last very long, or sometimes don't even work at all.
I have no time for fiddling with rebuilding these days, so I may not ever get much use out of the TC features of the IPV D2. I like having that option anyway though, and in the meantime the IPV D2 has been a great device for powering my non-TC MTL toppers all day without having to recharge. The device has been solid for me. I love it.
Am I the only person "tootle puffing" with the IPV D2? It certainly seems like it at times. I don't even use TC anymore, but I'm getting some Nautilus Mini replacement parts and another Nautilus Mini that I'll be using to try TC again in the near future. My current Nautilus Mini had a broken floating pin assembly that finally completely gave out on me when the spring fell out and got lost. The clearomizer was over a year old, so I guess that happening shouldn't surprise me, but I'd hardly used it before, so that was a pretty of annoying surprise. Because of that, for the moment, I'm not even using the D2, as I've got nothing decent to run on it for MTL. The Subtank Mini and the OBS T-VCT tanks just weren't cutting it for me for that purpose. Even after fixing the Nautilus Mini, the Vapor Shark ni200 Nautilus coils I have might still disappoint me. I have had nothing but trouble using stock ni200 coils so far, even in tanks other than the Nautilus Mini. They don't seem to be very dependable. They just don't last very long, or sometimes don't even work at all.
I have no time for fiddling with rebuilding these days, so I may not ever get much use out of the TC features of the IPV D2. I like having that option anyway though, and in the meantime the IPV D2 has been a great device for powering my non-TC MTL toppers all day without having to recharge. The device has been solid for me. I love it.
I don't see how the HG2's can be considered pricey, they're going for less per unit than what you paid for those purple things ($6-$8), and in performance they kick the everlovin' snot out of any Efest.
As for MTL, if I were you I'd stop throwing money at the Nautilus. And you will be disappointed with the VS Ni200 coils for it.
The 1.8 ohm Triton coils are much better constructed, have the tight draw you're looking for, put out better flavor, have an almost ludicrous amount of cotton wicking, and work in either in a Triton or Atlantis/Atlantis compatible tank, and Aspire will be making an Ni200 version of those heads eventually.
If you want to go that way, the least expensive route would be to pick up an Atlantis V1 or one of the other subohm tanks that take the Atlantis heads for under $20 and a 5-pack of the 1.8 ohm Triton coils. And you can probably find a local vape shop that would let you "test drive" a Triton with the 1.8 coil in it.
As for MTL, if I were you I'd stop throwing money at the Nautilus. And you will be disappointed with the VS Ni200 coils for it.
The 1.8 ohm Triton coils are much better constructed, have the tight draw you're looking for, put out better flavor, have an almost ludicrous amount of cotton wicking, and work in either in a Triton or Atlantis/Atlantis compatible tank, and Aspire will be making an Ni200 version of those heads eventually.
If you want to go that way, the least expensive route would be to pick up an Atlantis V1 or one of the other subohm tanks that take the Atlantis heads for under $20 and a 5-pack of the 1.8 ohm Triton coils. And you can probably find a local vape shop that would let you "test drive" a Triton with the 1.8 coil in it.
Yihi boards have a slight delay on the up/downs even the SX350. I think its there by design in case you bump it. Just hold it down and it will take off. The delay is the same whether its in sleep mode or awake. The fire button on the other hand has no delay.
I got my Samsungs 25r's for 6.25 each, the LG He2's were 5.95. Efest are second hand re-wrapped from LG usually. The top rated cells get the LG wrappers, the low grade cells that do not pass their standards get sold to Efest and other companies. Battery's are made in large flat sheets with the compounds spread like a food condiment on a sturdy backer. Its then rolled like a jelly roll and cut to size, in our case to fit inside a 65mm long tube. When their machine spreads the compounds out as you can imagine the outside edges are not uniform. They may be thinner or have bare patches. These are not discarded. They are assembled, given a lower grade and sold at a reduced price. Here is a list of companies that re-wrapped cells and advertise them at outlandish specs.
- Efest
- Vamped
- Keeppower
- AW
- Ultrafire
- Trustfire
- Orbtronic
- EH
- GTL
- Robiton
- Imren
- MXJO
- Nitecore
- AWT
- EagleTac
- AmpMax
- Basen
- BattEnergy
- EnerPower
- Fenix
- Intl-outdoor
- Redilast
- Xtar
Actually a couple of those on your list Order Spec production batteries. No better, but not less than 1st run spec.
* the reason I never spent more for AW
* Under spec of mAh does not make it a Higher quality battery. Just makes the Specs closer to true in real world use.
Where are you getting Samsung 25Rs and LG HE2s (or is it HG2s?) for those kind of prices? I haven't seen those prices from domestic suppliers in the U.S. (From whom I can expect to receive orders pretty quickly). As to the Efests, I made no claim they are amazing performers, or even the best value. They are just what I happened to get at the time I got my IPV D2, and they have been performing perfectly fine for my needs.
Everyone is always trying to get to try out a new tank, but I'm just flat out done with new tanks and coils - at least for the time being. The Subtank Mini was supposed to be something you could MTL on, but it didn't work well for that at all for me. I've spent plenty enough on well recommended sub ohm tanks that were supposed to be suitable for MTL use, but that didn't work out. They tend to be pretty big tanks too, that tend to look like...well, "tanks", which I don't find all that attractive.
I know a lot of folks here look down on the Nautilus series clearomizer tanks as 2-year old technology not worth bothering with anymore. Unlike a lot of posters here on ECF though, I personally like the look of the Nautilus clearomizer tanks. The Mini version is a nice, attractive size that is easy to handle. It doesn't leak, an issue I find to be common with sub ohm tanks when they are not full. Airflow adjustment is straightforward, with the draw being appropriate for mouth to lung hits without any extra fiddling, or needing to use a different drip tip - as is commonly required with sub ohm tanks. Have you tried the newer Nautilus OCC BVC heads with the larger wick holes? I've just recently tried them, and they work really well for MTL use - especially for someone like me that has to use higher VG juice.
The Aspire Triton seems like it might be alright to try out for MTL, though I understand it is a juice hog - which is a serious issue for a guy on a tight budget like me. I've already got something that now works very well for MTL, so why switch? My main interest when I got the IPV D2 was for using the TC feature. That hasn't worked out for any stock TC coils I've used yet, in the Nautilus Mini or anything else I've tried stock nickel coils with. So until better stock coils come out, I'm mostly done with TC for now. When better stock ni200 coil heads come out, there will also probably be better tanks available to use them with. After all, we are seeing new sub ohm tanks coming out all the time. So why should I bother buying another tank now? There's just no real good reason at this point for me.
I appreciate all the advice though. It is helpful. Thank you. Now I just want to know where people are getting LG and Samsung 18650 batteries for $6, so my next battery purchase can be from whoever that supplier is when my Efests eventually start to die on me.
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Triton is only a juice hog with sub ohm coils. The 1.8 ohm coils burn juice at roughly the same rate as a Nautilus coil at the same wattage. Physics.
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Can any one help me with joules setting, if I VW TC my setting is 35W 480F, then what will the D2 settings be?
Also has anyone try the Delta Ni Coils on D2 what is the sweet spot on TC setting?
Also has anyone try the Delta Ni Coils on D2 what is the sweet spot on TC setting?
Temp should be the same, and pretending joules=watts should give you a good starting point.
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