New Squape Rs 1:1 clone by SXK

[Devlinukr]

If you have ever in your life used a Protank coil in any device you can cannibalize those insulators from an old coil head. It's the same thing

Thanks for the suggestion, I'd kept a bunch of those for unknown reasons and it actually paid off, I was kinda shocked when I took out the old one and it was just a tiny o-ring.

I've had my Ivogo for a few days now and I'm really impressed with everything about it, really nice finish, I haven't had any problems with shaky resistance either the w deck or the b deck.

Flavour is fantastic even compared to the Taifun GT2s which I've been using constantly since I got it.

 

[Marmaduke]

Just ordered them to replace this tiny oring if I have to. Think they'll come in handy for other center pins and various occasions.

 

[TheBloke]

Well, I had a problem with leaking when using the bdeck first. You have to make sure that nothing of the cotton is touching the airhole. That also refers to the cotton in the wick. It has to be completely free. Liquidholes are blocked from the inside. Cotton is in s-form. After that, my Ivogo is totally dry.

OK thanks. I didn't have anything touching air hole but I did not have all liquid holes blocked. I have changed this now and will see how it goes.

PS. I think it was you interested in the Vape4Me Horizon clone? Did you get yours yet? I have had my authentic for a few days, and am greatly enjoying it. It's a really nice vape, and a very interesting tank. I started out using the very coarse mesh, #80,140, because that is all I had at the time. With 90% juice it worked well, but with 70% it leaked a lot. Now I am using [HASHTAG]#400[/HASHTAG] with 70% and it works great.

I found the tubes quite hard to make with the #80 because it was so thick. A lot quicker with the [HASHTAG]#400[/HASHTAG]. I also today received a Taifun GS2 clone, and was able to build that in minutes; had I not already got the Horizon (and talked about it here) I would have been rather confused

I have also bought some PTFE tubes from eBay - have you heard of using those instead of mesh? The Taifun clones come with some (I guess authentic too), which is where I learned about them. So I have bought some 2mm OD / 1mm ID PTFE tubes, 1 metre for about £2. 2mm OD is the size which fits the holes in the Horizon (M2.5 screw thread) and seems like it would be quicker to use than mesh. Haven't tried it yet but will when I next change liquid.

The only issue is that they are only 1mm ID, which is less than the ~1.5mm my mesh tubes have. So these might be better for thinner liquids only. I couldn't get any 1.5mm ID tubes from the UK, but I have ordered some 2mm/1.2mm and 2.1mm/1.5mm from Hong Kong, which will arrive in a week or two. I don't know if 2.1mm OD will fit but I'm hoping I might just be able to jam it in. If not then at least the 1.2mm ID ones are a bit better than 1mm.

I also bought the Horizon clone from fasttech, to compare, and it comes tomorrow I hope it's as good as the original because I would like to have two, they're really excellent, though not excellent enough to buy another authentic

 

[TheBloke]

I have the same problem because of thick juice and no problem with the bell tank. I need to learn if the same filling problem occurs with Ivogo base and SXK aluminium tanks. Have you tried this?

I have confirmed that filling is very slow @ 60% and impossible at higher, with:

• Ivogo stainless + Ivogo base
• SXK stainless + SXK base
• SXK aluminium + SXK base

Are you saying you want to try SXK aluminium + Ivogo base? If so, then I have not tried that. It does fit OK (but not other way around, Ivogo does not fit on SXK base). But why do you think that might work better? I can try it sometime if you like, when I next change liquids.

For now I have just given up on using my thicker juices. I am now using 60% in both SXK and Ivogo, using metal tanks (my bell cap broke, I have ordered another from 3F). I do have some 50% juice but haven't tried it yet, and I hope that will be a bit easier when I do try it.

With 60%, it takes took a long time to fill. What I have to do is ... listen to @cindycated ! Which now that I have, I can fill in no time. See her post after this one, and I will remove the crap I wrote here



PS. I have now received my stainless steel mesh, and I did a quick test with Titanium in the Taifun GT2. Unfortunately it did seem to short the coil - the mesh got quite burned in the place where it touched the spaced coil. But what is strange is it did not change the resistance reading on the mod. So I need to test again to be absolutely sure that it was the mesh alone causing the problem.

Could you tell me quickly how I oxidise SS mesh? Just with a blow torch?

 

[cindycated]

I have confirmed that filling is very slow @ 60% and impossible at higher, with:

• Ivogo stainless + Ivogo base
• SXK stainless + SXK base
• SXK aluminium + SXK base

Are you saying you want to try SXK aluminium + Ivogo base? If so, then I have not tried that. It does fit OK (but not other way around, Ivogo does not fit on SXK base). But why do you think that might work better? I can try it sometime if you like, when I next change liquids.

For now I have just given up on using my thicker juices. I am now using 60% in both SXK and Ivogo, using metal tanks (my bell cap broke, I have ordered another from 3F). I do have some 50% juice but haven't tried it yet, and I hope that will be a bit easier when I do try it.

With 60%, it takes a long time to fill. What I have to do is:

1. Pour the liquid on the threads, all the way around the rim of the tank, as much as possible until it forms a ridge up against the chimney and is about to spill into the chimney
2. Screw on the base, turn it the right way up, shake it around a bit
3. Repeat 1 + 2 twice more, three times total, until the tank is full
   1. So each time I do the fill I am only getting in about 1/3 of tank capacity (1.3ml or so) before it blocks up between chimney and tank.
   2. The liquid does not seem to move down if I wait, I can only get it down if I put the tank back together and turn it over and shake it.
   3. I guess something to do with air bubbles?
   4. I did wonder maybe if I filled it slowly, and only on one side of the tank, that might let me put it all in. It seems quicker to pour the juice all around the edge, but now I think about it, maybe that is blocking the air from coming out which means I have to put the tank back together to move the air.
   5. Next time I will try filling only on one side - it will be slower to get the liquid in, but if it saves me from having to screw the tank on the base twice, it will be quicker overall.

PS. I have now received my stainless steel mesh, and I did a quick test with Titanium in the Taifun GT2. Unfortunately it did seem to short the coil - the mesh got quite burned in the place where it touched the spaced coil. But what is strange is it did not change the resistance reading on the mod. So I need to test again to be absolutely sure that it was the mesh alone causing the problem.

Could you tell me quickly how I oxidise SS mesh? Just with a blow torch?

I still don't understand why you're having such a hard time filling. I'm using 70VG and have no problem at all, and I'm able to fill it to capacity. I give the tank a slight tilt, put the tip of my bottle to just above the threads letting it drip down into the tank past the threads, move the tip back and forth across that top lip above the threads to avoid surface tension, then untilt and finish it off. Maybe easier if you try warming your liquid a little to thin it down? Going all around the rim might not be a good idea, as I would imagine the surface tension would create some sort of vacuum. Maybe try the tilt thing and just pour down on the lower side.
This is the bottle I use: $2.83 Empty Long Dropper Bottles for E-liquids (5-Pack) 5-pack - 30ml / PE / black at FastTech - Worldwide Free Shipping
That sucks, the way you're having to fill it now. If it were me, I would be so mad at that atty. I hope you work it out.

 

[TheBloke]

I still don't understand why you're having such a hard time filling. I'm using 70VG and have no problem at all, and I'm able to fill it to capacity.

There's a very simple answer - I suck

Buoyed by your assurance that it should work at up to 70, I just tried again. I did exactly what you said, moving the tip back and forth a little but crucially not going all the way around the rim like I was before - which now I think about it was totally daft because with the tiny gap the liquid has to move down, it wasn't getting down there by the time I'd gone all the way around and I was thus sealing off the escape for the rest of the air.

And.. it worked perfectly Tank filled with 60% in about 20 seconds, rather than however many minutes it took me to do it in three or four batches.

Thank you!

 

[TheBloke]

Previous answer to @archimede edited appropriately

 

[cindycated]

There's a very simple answer - I suck

Buoyed by your assurance that it should work at up to 70, I just tried again. I did exactly what you said, moving the tip back and forth a little but crucially not going all the way around the rim like I was before - which now I think about it was totally daft because with the tiny gap the liquid has to move down, it wasn't getting down there by the time I'd gone all the way around and I was thus sealing off the escape for the rest of the air.

And.. it worked perfectly Tank filled with 60% in about 20 seconds, rather than however many minutes it took me to do it in three or four batches.

Thank you!

YAY! So glad that worked for you!

Again, you could always heat up your liquid a tad to thin it down. Just give it a bath in a cup of hot water. (faucet hot, not tea hot, if you have plastic bottles)

 

[TheBloke]

Thank you

And yeah, that's a good idea. I'll give that a go in future with an 80+ liquid.

 

[archimede]

Thank you very much TheBloke.

Are you saying you want to try SXK aluminium + Ivogo base? If so, then I have not tried that. It does fit OK (but not other way around, Ivogo does not fit on SXK base). But why do you think that might work better? I can try it sometime if you like, when I next change liquids.

Yes i mean Ivogo Base+SXK aluminium tank. I have the Ivogo base and if there won't be a filling issue with SXK alu tank, i will order one. I have no idea if it works

Could you tell me quickly how I oxidise SS mesh? Just with a blow torch?

This is how i make it: Cut the desired mesh, before rolling it, oxidize both sides with a torch. After torching, roll the mesh and oxidize the whole rolled mesh. Every point of the mesh should glow red. Have water in a cup and put the hot rolled mesh in the water just after glowing. Do this 3 times. After that drop a few drops of eliquid or PG or VG on the mesh and burn it with the torch until the flame over. Do this 3 times, too. If my explanation is not good you may have a quick look at my video between 1:45 and 14:00.

 

[TheBloke]

I can't think of any reason why the aluminium tank on the Ivogo base would be any better. The aluminium tank on the SXK base is no better, so I don't see why it would be on the Ivogo base.

I can try it for you sometime.

But now that I use Cindy's method, I have no problem at least with 60% and she says it works also with 70%. What % VG would you want to use?

Thanks a lot for the mesh details. Wow, that is a lot of work! Seven different torchings! Now I see why you are so keen to find it works with certain coil materials without oxidising

I suppose in practice it can be done in a couple of minutes, but it sure sounds like a lot (Then again you talk about it for 13 minutes on video so maybe it does take some time!)

I will continue experimenting with the mesh with Titanium, and also lower resistance material such as NiFe70 wire. That has a better chance of working than Titanium.

 

[archimede]

Yes oxidizing mesh makes me sick! So i don't do it anymore. Maybe so much torching is not necessary but i found that way working best for me. I will give it a try with nickel without oxidizing, sometime.

I am a VG guy, when i DIY i usually make my juices MaxVG which is around 90% VG. I never purchase ejuices thinner than 70% VG. Yes, wicking is harder with high VG in Tanks but this is how i like vaping. So i think i will continue using Squape RS with the Bell Tank

 

[TheBloke]

Have you tried warming the juice to thin it, like Cindy mentioned last night? If we can use her fill method no problem with 70%, then maybe warmed 90% would work in the same way.

 

[archimede]

No i have not tried that. I will try it tonight, maybe it works for me.

 

[Marmaduke]

News!The Horizon clone from Focalecig arrived and it works great. Nothing to do but clean it a bit to be on the safe side. Mesh straws easily made. Everything is fine.
Also, my Ivogo Squape Rs is still doing a great job. Happy little clone family

 

[winstonw]

I have bought a clone, I have no idea what version it is though.
Got a question. I see there is no o-ring above chimney, the chimney simply screws into to tank. Is it a proper way? I think if there is no o-ring there, it will not be sealed and easily break the vacuum thing? How about yours?

 

[cindycated]

I have bought a clone, I have no idea what version it is though.
Got a question. I see there is no o-ring above chimney, the chimney simply screws into to tank. Is it a proper way? I think if there is no o-ring there, it will not be sealed and easily break the vacuum thing? How about yours?

Mine didn't have an o-ring there, but I wrapped a little teflon tape on the threads on mine. Many have successfully used it without anything there though.

 

[TheBloke]

Yeah I thought it a bit odd there was no o-ring on the chimney connection, but as it was the same on both my clones I figured it must match the original, and I left it. No leaking, no problems at all.

 

[TheBloke]

I thought I'd keep the thread alive with an update on my Squape Rs clones, nearly a month on. I just checked my emails and the tracking, and I see I received them August 17th - so it'll be a month on Thursday.

On the SXK, I've had the same build in place the entire time - more than 3 weeks. I've changed the wick once, about a week ago. On the Ivogo I changed the build after a few days so as to try the B deck, and that build has now been there more than two weeks with the same wick.

Both are vaping absolutely fine now that I know how to fill them properly, and more importantly now I've got the resistance fixed on the Ivogo and improved on the SXK.

I regard them as decent, good looking, no-fuss, no-frills atomizers. Solid, reliable, unexciting. Taste is OK, definitely not bad, but probably not the best I have.

I'm glad I've got them and will definitely continue using them. It's a shame that their unique selling point, the non-conductive deck/chimney and the interchangeable decks, seems to make so little difference, at least for me. But perhaps I'll grow to appreciate the multiple decks more in the future as I eventually get around to re-coiling them.

For future purchases, I can only recommend the SXK. The Ivogo had broken o-rings on the lower deck - and at least one other user has reported the same - and major resistance problems. Perhaps the new insulators on 3FVape will fix that, then again it's not good to have to pay $5 for new insulators to fix the tank. Perhaps they've even fixed it for new batches of the tank, but we have no proof of that yet.

After those problems are fixed, I can't really tell any difference between the Ivogo and the SXK. The Ivogo comes with a bell cap and all five decks, but costs more. If you buy the one-deck, no-bell-cap version, it's the same price.

SXK have produced a range of aluminium tanks in various colours, which is nice. Then again, they fit fine on the Ivogo base so this isn't an advantage of the SXK base per se.

Actually, I suppose there is one advantage to the Ivogo - the bell cap, which won't fit properly on the SXK base. So if you really want a bell cap, and don't mind that it is rather unattractive, then the Ivogo is the only choice.

 

[auto2012]

Just bought the SXK. I also bought the insulators for 5 dollars. Do they have to be inserted into the SXK?


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