Mike n Tibs DNA Mods!

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vapealone

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I'd make the contacts from brass or copper rods or bolts, machined with a file in a drill press to get the right size and shape. Get the diameter correct, then shape the contact end and the cut them to approximate length. File to get the length exact.

For the bars, again, either brass or copper bar stock. Any machining for the rods can be done with a Dremel and a file, assuming you have a vice or other clamping method.

Solder them together and install.

Brass or copper will have better conductivity that stainless, plus both are a lot easier to work than stainless.

My experience with a stainless printed part from Shapeways was not very good. Tolerances go way out when it goes from the plastic model to the mold for casting.
I would get the brass printed.
Copper would be made out of bars/flat wire and the stainless, as worst case scenario would be an assembly of some roughly suitable sized parts.
And unfortunately I have no vice at home just some clamps, neither a Dremmel but some cordless tools.
Anyway, thank you for the answer, I narrow it down to copper or brass:)
 
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Alexander Mundy

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Sorry, my bad.
I need custom battery contacts for Li-Ion, not connectors. I want to remove the batteries individually.
The geometry is pretty simple:
View attachment 487331
At least on paper:)
Single contact w/ solder bar on the left, dual - to + on the right

Looks like contacts for cylindrical batteries? My experience is to use silver alloy contacts that are made for electrical relays. You can either salvage from relays or get some new surplus never installed ones. Have a look at Surplus Sales of Nebraska, they have a ton of stuff ripe for being made into modding parts. Here is the page for the ones I use. They are the "Electrical Contact Pressfit - Silver" Contacts: Electrical – Relay

Warning! That website can consume hours of your time.
 

Tpat591

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Looks like contacts for cylindrical batteries? My experience is to use silver alloy contacts that are made for electrical relays. You can either salvage from relays or get some new surplus never installed ones. Have a look at Surplus Sales of Nebraska, they have a ton of stuff ripe for being made into modding parts. Here is the page for the ones I use. They are the "Electrical Contact Pressfit - Silver" Contacts: Electrical – Relay

Warning! That website can consume hours of your time.
That is a site for the resource spreadsheet
 

awsum140

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I managed to find a little time today and got the cleats to stop button rotation milled and JB'd in as well as the two cleats for the battery retainer. Tomorrow, I'll get the battery clamp cut and drilled as well as drill and tap the cleats for it. Then it's actually time to do a final assembly.

I will be changing the wire lengths on the battery output leads to minimize wire management. The only real "trick" will be getting the display centered and installed. The rest of it should be pretty straight forward.
 

Tpat591

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Tpat591

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Sure about battery length? If not for 1mm sounds like a good fit for the Slutlab Reference Mod. Evolv DNA200 (90x36x23 Battery) (CFS65VPJ7) by slutlab
upload_2015-9-6_14-33-45.png
 
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Squonk_me

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Its been a battle but here it is, the BRD Squonk print from Shapeways. Have been doing the back and forth with BRD getting things noted for possible fixes and today its done. Used a FDV V4 BF 510, and had to downsize to a 2s battery to get it all in there. XT30 connectors on battery and output and hardwired the balance connections for now. Running kanthol right now till I get on the manual and tutorials to get it all figured out.
mini-20150906_144036.jpg


mini-20150906_144054.jpg


mini-20150906_143441.jpg


mini-20150827_144701.jpg
View attachment 487688
Went from this much room for the battery,,
mini-20150827_153659.jpg

To this much room! Doesn't look like much but its 5mm more.
mini-20150906_143608.jpg

It was needed to get the thing to close.

Can't tell @BlueridgeDog enough times,,,,, THANKS for putting this out there for our use.
And thanks again for all the help and research you did.

It has been soldered and resoldered so many times and handled so much it really needs a bath, and then some color. :)
 
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Squonk_me

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I will use, and enjoy what the print has turned into, even go so far as to be seen in public with it!:wub: I think it turned out just fine.:thumb: IMO, to put more time on this one is not necessary. I say, "On to the next version!" and more chips from the next co-op. :w00t::banana::w00t::banana::w00t:

But, these are the areas that were affected. (for consideration on the next version).

Yes, the Diameter of the larger bottle is the right size. That larger bottle will fit in the compartment provided but, the thing with a bottom feed is all the stuffs that goes under the 510. This is roughly 19mm inside.
mini-20150906_143441+1.jpg


Also a small gap is needed between the SS tubing and the opening in the bottle so it can swing out for removal. I guess you could just remove the silicone tube from the 510 each time but they leak a bit unless you seal them and once sealed (glued) they can't separate there again. (Mine leaks!) FDV V4 BF 510 tube size is too close to the 1/16id silicon tubing.
mini-20150906_152512+1.jpg
 

X-Puppy

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Thank you BRD and Squonk_me for being the guinea pigs on the BRD squonk box. I'm sure I'm not the only one that's been watching this build with peeked interest.

I would love to build one or two if they could hold a 3S lipo.

Awesome job Squonk_me! Your solder looks really nice especially considering you had redone it several times. Very nice build!
 
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TruckerMSA

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I will use, and enjoy what the print has turned into, even go so far as to be seen in public with it!:wub: I think it turned out just fine.:thumb: IMO, to put more time on this one is not necessary. I say, "On to the next version!" and more chips from the next co-op. :w00t::banana::w00t::banana::w00t:

But, these are the areas that were affected. (for consideration on the next version).

Yes, the Diameter of the larger bottle is the right size. That larger bottle will fit in the compartment provided but, the thing with a bottom feed is all the stuffs that goes under the 510. This is roughly 19mm inside.
View attachment 487813

Also a small gap is needed between the SS tubing and the opening in the bottle so it can swing out for removal. I guess you could just remove the silicone tube from the 510 each time but they leak a bit unless you seal them and once sealed (glued) they can't separate there again. (Mine leaks!) FDV V4 BF 510 tube size is too close to the 1/16id silicon tubing.
View attachment 487815
Did you get the sqonk bottle kit from FD?


Sent from The Truck O Shop
 
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