Vaporshark - 40 or 200?

[OB1J3D1]

Hello all,

I'm a veteran vaper who fell off the wagon about a year ago. At the time, mechanicals and RDA's were all the rage. My latest setups were a brass Spartan (custom) with a Patriot RDA and a AR Mod with an Igo-W (drilled). I also had a slew of tanks that sucked... I was running Kanthal, micro sub ohm coils with cotton wick and between 3-6 mg juices. Besides driving, this was working for me...

However, I'm now looking to get back into the Vape scene to try to wean myself off these analogs once again. I am a bit older, a bit wiser, and WAY out of touch with the vape scene already...

SO, after a few days worth of research - I think what I am looking for is a small box mod to run a tank like a Kanger sub mini. I want something pocket-able that won't leak, needs little to no daily maintenance (besides a refill, recharge, and wipe down), can sustain me through a work day, and is minimal. Of what I've seen, the VaporShark with a shark skin would be a great example of the styling I'm after. I do like the bottom screen but it is not a deal breaker.

I am not a chain vaper, I am not a cloud chaser, I am not a super high wattage vaper, and I am not a competition cloud blower.

I do want an awesome vaping experience out of both a tank to be purchased and the RDA's that I already own. From what I understand the newer tanks are all single coil. My RDA's can be built either way. But, I got the most enjoyment out of dual micro with cotton back then...

I am a person who appreciates fine craftsmanship and quality, I expect a company to stand behind their product, I want a warranty, I want customer service that is responsive, I prefer to buy an authentic made in the USA mod, I do not want to have a lot of mods. I'd rather buy one quality mod than a bunch of crap. I prefer the around $100 -$150 range. But, I understand that the DNA 200 is brand new and has a roughly $200 price tag which I am ok with so long as the added price adds value (for a vaper like me).

With all that having been said, I am considering the VaporShark rDNA 40 and the VaporShark DNA 200. I am concerned that the 40 will not have the "balls" to drive my RDA's properly. I am also concerned that the 200 will have it's share of bugs. I have no idea the safety issues with a LiPo. But I am familiar with Ohms law and a safe vaping range.

I appreciate the thoughts and opinions of the community as I further my quest to rid myself of carcinogens.

Thanks much in advance!

 

[dc99]

I think the 40 is probably enough for 80% of the people out there. Its pretty tried and true. The 200 Im going to wait out and see how it goes. Way to many coming to market to fast. For me anyway. I have a few mods with the 40 and have never had them on 40. Actually am on one I made last year with a smok VCT tank now. From how you are describing yourself I think its plenty of power

 

[dannyboy42670]

Personally, I feel that 40watts is not enough for TC with a lot of nickel builds that satisfy me as much as I would be satisfied with a kanthal build.

 

[msmith4512]

I have a VS DNA40 and a RDNA40. I love the build quality and the super fast zip charging. I'm happiest between 20 and 30 watts with my nickel and kanthal standard and twisted builds. So the 40 watt limit is fine for me.

However I'm really starting to love clapton wire because of the denser and more saturated vape. I find claptons heat up too slowly at lower wattages and I tend to run them on my SX Mini at 40-50 watts, and not as much on my vapor sharks.

But I really prefer the vapor shark form factor and feel in hand. SO I may get a VS DNA200 to give me more headroom for my fancier builds.

 

[Mad Scientist]

If the VS 40 and VS 200 were the only choices, I'd have to go with the 200. Depends on what type of vape you prefer but a 200 available watt preheat makes it a very different experience. My only gripes on the VS 200 are that mat finish and the screen on the bottom. The smaller battery capacity is made up for with its relatively small size. A DNA 200 is a DNA 200. If you can wait a couple of months, there are certain to be plenty of other DNA 200 options.

I was at the beach today with a VS rDNA 40 (it is now my beach, don't care if I drop it in the sand, rig, if that says it all). Just wasn't doing the business.

 

[smokewell]

A DNA 40, RDNA 40 and soon to be VS dna 200 owner I would recommend you get the DNA200. To use Ni200 TC builds you need a large coil with a lot of wraps to achieve the minimum ohm's required by the DNA 40 generation. With the newer chip you can get away with less wraps and also have the software to troubleshoot any potential issues with your build. Also firmware upradability is nice to future proof your purchase.

 

[javafreak]

A lot of talk here about the mod. So I'll talk about the tank instead. I find the sub tank leaks, gets really good flavor and punch, but can't for the life of me figure out why it leaks.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[Angel Eyes]

I like the VaporFlask - more craftmanship and ruggedness than the Vapor Shark, and the outside finish does not wear off like the VS, but apparently VS just purchased VF. The reason to go with DNA 200 is not the high wattage but the fact that it is titanium aware. I am afraid of nickel, as nickel is a poison. Titanium is not a panacea or perfect, but hey, they do use it in foods!

I find the sub tank leaks

I have the full size Kanger Subtank, and it is probably the 20th different tank and/or RTA I have owned, and the very FIRST one that has NEVER leaked! - You couldn't pry it away from me, after what I have been through with leaky tank systems!

 

[OB1J3D1]

I'm not into the size of the flask - nor the price tag...

 

[OB1J3D1]

I think I'm leaning towards getting the 200...

Any places that are offering a deal yet? The only place I see it online is VS itself...

 

[athens]

kanger subtank is a great tank. I dont have any leaking issues with any of mine, and they are easy to rebuild. I have a saucecode tank, but the atlantis nickel coils (which it can use) require more power for same vape level as subtank.

get a kanger subtank and a rdna 40 and youll be happy. I run 18-22watts on my tanks with nickel coils and would be happy with a dna 25. the dna 200s are good for using drippers, but since you already have an rda and a mech, use that for that. Hanas dropped in price on the v4s and v4m too, so you can look at those. Rdna 40s can be found for a little over 100$, whereas the hanas are $150.

I was big into dripping and rebuilding but the ease of use from a dna 40 and subtank made it my go to.

 

[OB1J3D1]

Thanks!

As I'm learning a DNA 200 will be hard to find for a while... And you're right, that dripper runs fine on my mech! DUH... What I need is something for my pocket all day...

I've never built with anything but Kanthal. But, I do want the options to try new wires.

Where can I get an rDNA 40 for $100?!? Also, know where I can find a good deal on the subtank?

I'm probably in the same boat as you. I was into rebuilding and dripping. But, I'm a new dad and I don't have time for all of that. I just want to get off of cigs again.

 

[GrandSam]

The rDNA 40 should be fine. You can usually find them for $90-$120 on eBay, but, you're better off getting a new one + shark skin for $140 off of Vapor Shark's main site. Some have been known to have screen glitching issues, hence the new, off site, recommendation.
I myself have absolutely no use for the VS200. Seeing as how I seldom go above 17 watts, the additional 160 watts would just be a waste.
There's also a slew of smaller mods that go up to 30, 40, 50, etc. watts. Most are priced under $50.

 

[fishgod]

I have both the DNA 40 Vapor Flask and a DNA 200 by XE Vape. The 200 hands down is the better chip. Even if you are a low wattage vaper. The ability to tune the coil in real time with computer software. Then you can save those settings in one of the eight presets.

 

[BigEgo]

DNA-200 is the best circuit board on the market right now, by far. However, it requires a pretty hefty battery (Lipo packs) which will make such a mod quite a bit larger than the DNA-40 mods.

If you just want a single 18650 mod, then either the DNA-40 or any of the newer Yihi temp control mods would be perfect.

 

[smokinGAVIN]

I would go with the rDNA 40 specially if it will be the only mod you will have. As long as you have spare batteries you will have no downtime. I would love to have the DNA 200 but the battery issue is deal breaker for me. I like to swap out batteries when I need to and not have to wait for a charge before I can vape again. I wouldn't even mind bulky dual battery mods so long as I can swap the batteries when they are low.

 

[HexohmNation]

@smokinGAVIN

Check out the DNA200 GingerVaper Boxer Mods, they've got dual 18650 versions. Though that version maxes out at 133W.

 

[Stinkytofus]

Hello all,

I'm a veteran vaper who fell off the wagon about a year ago. At the time, mechanicals and RDA's were all the rage. My latest setups were a brass Spartan (custom) with a Patriot RDA and a AR Mod with an Igo-W (drilled). I also had a slew of tanks that sucked... I was running Kanthal, micro sub ohm coils with cotton wick and between 3-6 mg juices. Besides driving, this was working for me...

However, I'm now looking to get back into the Vape scene to try to wean myself off these analogs once again. I am a bit older, a bit wiser, and WAY out of touch with the vape scene already...

SO, after a few days worth of research - I think what I am looking for is a small box mod to run a tank like a Kanger sub mini. I want something pocket-able that won't leak, needs little to no daily maintenance (besides a refill, recharge, and wipe down), can sustain me through a work day, and is minimal. Of what I've seen, the VaporShark with a shark skin would be a great example of the styling I'm after. I do like the bottom screen but it is not a deal breaker.

I am not a chain vaper, I am not a cloud chaser, I am not a super high wattage vaper, and I am not a competition cloud blower.

I do want an awesome vaping experience out of both a tank to be purchased and the RDA's that I already own. From what I understand the newer tanks are all single coil. My RDA's can be built either way. But, I got the most enjoyment out of dual micro with cotton back then...

I am a person who appreciates fine craftsmanship and quality, I expect a company to stand behind their product, I want a warranty, I want customer service that is responsive, I prefer to buy an authentic made in the USA mod, I do not want to have a lot of mods. I'd rather buy one quality mod than a bunch of crap. I prefer the around $100 -$150 range. But, I understand that the DNA 200 is brand new and has a roughly $200 price tag which I am ok with so long as the added price adds value (for a vaper like me).

With all that having been said, I am considering the VaporShark rDNA 40 and the VaporShark DNA 200. I am concerned that the 40 will not have the "balls" to drive my RDA's properly. I am also concerned that the 200 will have it's share of bugs. I have no idea the safety issues with a LiPo. But I am familiar with Ohms law and a safe vaping range.

I appreciate the thoughts and opinions of the community as I further my quest to rid myself of carcinogens.

Thanks much in advance!

Get the 200, u dont have to upgrade for a very long time, 40 is sufficient, but why not have that extra firepower

200hp car is sufficient but if a car is 400-500hp for a little more, why not

 

[smokinGAVIN]

@smokinGAVIN

Check out the DNA200 GingerVaper Boxer Mods, they've got dual 18650 versions. Though that version maxes out at 133W.

Great looking Mod. I don't really need all that wattage. I drip at 45 Watts so the 133 Watts is more than enough.

 

[OB1J3D1]

All, I went with the dna 200, waited for it.

My first subtank mini is a dud. But I got a second locally and me now loving the combo. It does exactly what o need it to do.

Loaded a ni200 occ head, took a quick cruise through escribe and ended on 450 f at 45 watts.

Yet to pick up an analogue since... We will see how it goes.