eVic-VT mini?

[Tpat591]

But it still wouldn't explain the change to "anemic vape" on wake from sleep.

Agreed, it was never meant to be an explanation of that - just to explain the differences noted by the OP between his VT setting and the VTC settings.
Two separate issues not to be confused.

I believe Iowa31s might be right in that the internal temperature of the board when the base resistance is locked in is somehow affecting the base resistance by refining it downward when the board cools back to room temperature. Why I cannot say. That is something for smarter people than me.

 

[eltaros]

O.K., let's do it step by step....

Firstly, if you see the 'new coil/same coil" (a.k.a. NCSC....from now on....) message and you positively know that it's the same coil...why do you answer as 'NewCoil'? Because you've seen an apparent change in resistance? If so, that's a poor interface design as it forces some of you to the wrong choice, but knowing now that the actual base resistance is unchanged (if it is, like my device does), now you're in best position to pick up the right answer.....

Secondly, about some setups....currently I'm with a Magma in single coil, Ni-200 0,40 mm, and it's locked at 0,17 ohm. I've put 210 ºC as target temperature, a bit lower than I usually choose, and that 0,17 ohm resistance goes up to 0,34 ohm.....

Remember, that's a ratio of resistances, R/R0=2,000, which is found under TCR=0,00575 at 190-195ºC. but the actual TCR for Ni-200 in this mod is about 0,0055, so under that one, it's really about 200-205ºC, which I sanction as close enough.

If I do the same in a ipv D2 (I've got one too, for that matter), and I maintain the 210 ºC target, it goes up, nearly burning my vape. Why? because my IPV D2 seems to use a TCR of about 0,0065 or more, so it expects a ratio of 2,2 or more....and as the actual Ni-200 has not so high TCR, the actual temperature is about 255 ºC...... check the tables (or do the math with the equations) and you'll see that.

Now your issue. You firstly set the base resistance as 0,15 ohm at, supposedly, 20ºC. You try it at a unknown temperature setting (whatever) and you find it unsatisfactory or anaemic...... then you re-set the base resistance, but now your atomizer IS NOT a 20 ºc, it is hotter, and without changing your temperature setting, now it apparently works better.

It's not an issue of random variances on base resistances, TCR's or software driftings. It's you, changing the calibration at a wrong temperature. As a matter of fact, if you commit some error in the actual temperature of calibration, let's say 'deltaT' (being it higher than the expected 20 ºC), your actual maximum temperature and the one set up on the screen will differ one another in 'deltaT'....Why? Because of the linear nature of the approximation that the chip uses.

So, if you re-calibrate at 60 ºC instead of the expected 20 ºC, you target temperature will be effectively 40ºC hotter...and naturally that causes a warmer vape. Try to calibrate it properly and then set the target 40 ºC hotter instead.....it should work the same, and it appears to me more logically consistent, doesn't it?

Sorry for the long and numerically linked answer, but it was as important the why as the short answer should be. And the short answer to 'So does this means when i perform warmup/off then on /an choosing "new coil" would actually reset/recalibrate the base resistance?' is YES. You're re-calibrating (wrongly re-calibrating) the device.

But if, coupled with this, there are other issues, whereas numerical, precision, stability of calibrations, user-induced because unexplained behaviours, or what else close encounters on the third phase you might find there, well, it's all up to discover what's really happening........

@scaredmice, Took some time to build/setup and vape according to your sample setup.
........................................its actually seems to work. Think my ignorance had me be cause of my misbehaving mod.
Havin said that i still "feel" by using "NCSC" im getting a cooler dense think tasty vape...But im going to compare it later and put aside my ignorance
and will reply back.(Have ta bring my kids out for now with this setup in hand

BTW i got 0.15ohm nickel set as base at room Temp 20C(i need to freeze it cause room temp here in MY is around 32/33C, but will certainly try to setup base res at 32/33 later as well)
Firing at 400-430F.

Thankyou @scaredmice nd i'll be back later. (Guys for those who saw my previous comments on this as well on those who complained earlier similar to my senario,
Please try this seggetion/guide/explination from @scaredmice first and feedback if you want please.)

 

[zeus01]

How long do you freeze your coils?and mods?
For those who are in Asia like me?

" life is about making decisions and not looking back "

 

[Tpat591]

So who is recommending you freeze your mod and why exactly? Forgive my ignorance, but I never heard of this before.

 

[zeus01]

So who is recommending you freeze your mod and why exactly? Forgive my ignorance, but I never heard of this before.

Uhm,
Just read it here...

Apparently not sure if it works

Had it on my freezer,for half an hour,
My .27 went down to .25 ohms
Put the atomizer on the mod as the manual instructions

And now my issue is solved I think,
Even on wake up I don't have that anemic vape,
Thou,the vape at 380 is still anemic compared to

380,if I tricked the mod that my resistance was .33/(same coil)
Pre fired and resistance unlocked

" life is about making decisions and not looking back "

 

[Tpat591]

I've read it, read it a few pages back I think. Still don't get it....Realize it is just another elaborate way to try to fool the mod...What ever works for you!

I'm done trying to understand this whole mess (that is until it happens to me....then I'll be forced to try to figure it all out!). Good luck & hope it all works out for you!!

 

[AlaskaVaper]

Evic VTC MiNi & SS Coils:
I unboxed my Evic mini Friday and have been trying it out with two different tanks, one that has 304 SS coil heads and one that has 316 SS coils. I have been extremely impressed with the performance using these coils. I was surprised to find that even though the Evic does not provide any TCR user adjustment capability that by using the TI wire setting and a significant temperature adjustment I get excellent TC response and just the type of warm full vape that I most enjoy. The first tank I used was an old Smok VCT for which I had recently aquired some coil heads the VCT X-1 S. I originally purchased these coils thinking they were for my Smol TCT tank but found that they were actually designed for use in the older VCT tanks that I had relegated to the non-use pile. I pulled a VCT out, cleaned it up and put in the X-1 S coil it being a 304 grade SS. Filled the tank with a favorite juice and put it on the new mini where it read .55 ohms. I started to vape at 470F and 60 watts and immediately saw I was much too high for that coil.I then adjusted a few times and find that a setting for the 304 SS works best in TC between 220 to 240 F and the watts set at 35. It is a fabulous vape and I have now run through several tanks to a practically dry condition with no burnt taste whatsoever. My next test has been using the Crown tank with the stock 316 SS coil. The resistance of that coil on the Evic Mini shows as .27. The vape is also very good but seems to need a setting of around 240-260F. The Crown does seem to provide a somewhat better flavor than does the VCT tank. With the same juice neither of these tanks provides the full rich taste that I derive from that juice on my dual coiled Velocity using Ti. I am still waiting on an order of SS and am anxious to coil up the Velocity for a true comparison. The Evic Mini is a great little device and at a cheap price and I am very happy with it. My only real complaint is the rapid battery depletion but, I expected that to be the case before I ordered it. For stock SS coil with tanks I believe that the Evic Mini is a real winner.

By the way, that Smok VCT tank can still be found on some online sites for around $14. The Smok TCT tank Has be excellent for using in Ni on TC devices as it has an improved airflow over the older VCT version. Have not yet seen SS coil heads yet for the TCT. The Croen comes with stock 316 SS coils and the Smok X-1S coil head is 304 SS.

 

[zeus01]

Evic VTC MiNi & SS Coils:
I unboxed my Evic mini Friday and have been trying it out with two different tanks, one that has 304 SS coil heads and one that has 316 SS coils. I have been extremely impressed with the performance using these coils. I was surprised to find that even though the Evic does not provide any TCR user adjustment capability that by using the TI wire setting and a significant temperature adjustment I get excellent TC response and just the type of warm full vape that I most enjoy. The first tank I used was an old Smok VCT for which I had recently aquired some coil heads the VCT X-1 S. I originally purchased these coils thinking they were for my Smol TCT tank but found that they were actually designed for use in the older VCT tanks that I had relegated to the non-use pile. I pulled a VCT out, cleaned it up and put in the X-1 S coil it being a 304 grade SS. Filled the tank with a favorite juice and put it on the new mini where it read .55 ohms. I started to vape at 470F and 60 watts and immediately saw I was much too high for that coil.I then adjusted a few times and find that a setting for the 304 SS works best in TC between 220 to 240 F and the watts set at 35. It is a fabulous vape and I have now run through several tanks to a practically dry condition with no burnt taste whatsoever. My next test has been using the Crown tank with the stock 316 SS coil. The resistance of that coil on the Evic Mini shows as .27. The vape is also very good but seems to need a setting of around 240-260F. The Crown does seem to provide a somewhat better flavor than does the VCT tank. With the same juice neither of these tanks provides the full rich taste that I derive from that juice on my dual coiled Velocity using Ti. I am still waiting on an order of SS and am anxious to coil up the Velocity for a true comparison. The Evic Mini is a great little device and at a cheap price and I am very happy with it. My only real complaint is the rapid battery depletion but, I expected that to be the case before I ordered it. For stock SS coil with tanks I believe that the Evic Mini is a real winner.

By the way, that Smok VCT tank can still be found on some online sites for around $14. The Smok TCT tank Has be excellent for using in Ni on TC devices as it has an improved airflow over the older VCT version. Have not yet seen SS coil heads yet for the TCT. The Croen comes with stock 316 SS coils and the Smok X-1S coil head is 304 SS.

Thanks for this

Not sure about what grade of my ss wires are but might give it a try

So after reading I can use ss wires and set it around 240-260 rght?and adjust from there

So any tips on what temp no to get into dry burning stage???


Thanks

Did you dry fire your ss upon making the coil?

" life is about making decisions and not looking back "

 

[AlaskaVaper]

Thanks for this

Not sure about what grade of my ss wires are but might give it a try

So after reading I can use ss wires and set it around 240-260 rght?and adjust from there

So any tips on what temp no to get into dry burning stage???


Thanks

Did you dry fire your ss upon making the coil?

" life is about making decisions and not looking back "

There was no dry burning because these coils were commercial coils designed by the tank manufacturers. You do of course need to prime the coils before installing into the tank so they get completely saturated before firing them up to vape on.

On the 304 grade SS coiles in the Smok VCT tank I vaped the tank dry at 240F with no burnt hits. The TC prevented any temp that would cause dry hits that If I had raised the temp setting to 270F I could begin to taste some slight burnt taste well before the tank was totally empty. The Ti coefficient of resistance curve (TCR) seems to make vaping stainless coils very sensitive to Temp change. One must experiment abit to find what works with any particular setup. I know that there are sime devices that have Ti curves that do not work as well with the SS wire as does the EVic mini. Now sure why that is. On devices without a Titanium setting available I have used Ti with the Nickel setting with good TC results but it does take a bit of experimenting. I use Ni occasionally but on the whole try to avoid it because of potential adverse health consequenses and the need to only use spaced coils.

 

[dimo]

Just picked up one of these to replace a Hana modz mini DNA 40 which now has a bad board or battery or both (temp control function completely stopped working because ohm reading is way off).

Topped it with a Herakles with the .6 kanthal head and works great. Price point is excellent too at $50 compared to the $250 I paid for the Hana about 10 months ago. Loving the storm trooper black and white look.

 

[VapingBad]

Just picked up one of these to replace a Hana modz mini DNA 40 which now has a bad board or battery or both (temp control function completely stopped working because ohm reading is way off).

Topped it with a Herakles with the .6 kanthal head and works great. Price point is excellent too at $50 compared to the $250 I paid for the Hana about 10 months ago. Loving the storm trooper black and white look.

Undo the ground screw in the Hana, clean the screw & hole with alcohol and refit.

 

[TrollDragon]

Just picked up one of these to replace a Hana modz mini DNA 40 which now has a bad board or battery or both (temp control function completely stopped working because ohm reading is way off).

Topped it with a Herakles with the .6 kanthal head and works great. Price point is excellent too at $50 compared to the $250 I paid for the Hana about 10 months ago. Loving the storm trooper black and white look.

Looks Great!
If the TC worked as good as Power & Bypass mode this little guy would be a killer mod!

 

[Pearl B]

Dimo,

That's a gorgeous combo. I have the white EVic also. Think I'm going to be picking up a black Herackles on one of my shopping ventures

 

[dimo]

Undo the ground screw in the Hana, clean the screw & hole with alcohol and refit.

Tried it. Tried new screw, tried redoing the solder on the positive pin, nothing worked so far. Not sure what to try next other than removing the glue and changing the board or throwing it in the garbage. I Reads about .1-.15 higher every time. Doesn't really affect my normal 1.5ohm builds in my kayfun, but reeks havoc on my .10 ohm nickel builds. Used to be spot on when I first got it.

 

[Jim_ MDP]

Looks Great!
If the TC worked as good as Power & Bypass mode this little guy would be a killer mod!

Do you mean Bypass on the VTC?

I've got two 65w regs (SMOK & Smowell) with "Mech Mode" and I swear... I don't see what they're for.
Utterly, utterly anemic.

Mechs must be better than this.
What topper/tank ohm should I be using to have that be a worthwhile vape?

 

[TrollDragon]

Do you mean Bypass on the VTC?

I've got two 65w regs (SMOK & Smowell) with "Mech Mode" and I swear... I don't see what they're for.
Utterly, utterly anemic.

Mechs must be better than this.
What topper/tank ohm should I be using to have that be a worthwhile vape?

Yes Bypass on the VTC.

Bypass mode is just like a mechanical mod, it shines when it comes down to the sub ohm builds. If you put a Kayfun Lite on the mini in Bypass mode with a standard 1.4 ohm Kanthal build. Out of the mini off of a fresh battery, Bypass mode would put out a very respectable Tootle Puffing 12W...

Which makes no sense to use it in Bypass mode as you could run that quite nicely in Power mode between 15-18W all day long. Don't forget that as the battery level drops so does the output in Bypass mode, before too long that 12W is down to 10W which doesn't happen in Power mode.

Making bypass mode useful is more for RDA's with sub ohm builds. The mini goes to 60W in Power mode with an RDA that has a 0.2 ohm build. Switching that over to Bypass mode the mini will put 88W into that same RDA.

Like the Clouder's say "More Power for More Chuck Bro"

With 21A being pulled out of that battery you don't get the 88W for too long, it would start taper off quite quickly. I don't really know how much protection is on the mini in Bypass mode. Since it will take a minimum 0.15 ohm coil, a fresh battery would put 118W into that build and I would be careful of that as it draws 28A from the battery.

The Bypass mode is just a novelty feature IMHO. There are many good Mosfet controlled parallel 18650 box mods out there that are semi safe depending on batteries used and the experience level of the user.

So take your favorite RDA put a 0.2 ohm Kanthal build on it and try all your devices that have a Bypass mode.

 

[scaredmice]

@scaredmice, Took some time to build/setup and vape according to your sample setup.
........................................its actually seems to work. Think my ignorance had me be cause of my misbehaving mod.
Havin said that i still "feel" by using "NCSC" im getting a cooler dense think tasty vape...But im going to compare it later and put aside my ignorance
and will reply back.(Have ta bring my kids out for now with this setup in hand

BTW i got 0.15ohm nickel set as base at room Temp 20C(i need to freeze it cause room temp here in MY is around 32/33C, but will certainly try to setup base res at 32/33 later as well)
Firing at 400-430F.

Thankyou @scaredmice nd i'll be back later. (Guys for those who saw my previous comments on this as well on those who complained earlier similar to my senario,
Please try this seggetion/guide/explination from @scaredmice first and feedback if you want please.)

Glad you got it working better. do not hesitate to further comment or ask if you need to. More about the freezing later....

How long do you freeze your coils?and mods?
For those who are in Asia like me?

" life is about making decisions and not looking back "

So who is recommending you freeze your mod and why exactly? Forgive my ignorance, but I never heard of this before.

Uhm,
Just read it here...

Apparently not sure if it works

Had it on my freezer,for half an hour,
My .27 went down to .25 ohms
Put the atomizer on the mod as the manual instructions

And now my issue is solved I think,
Even on wake up I don't have that anemic vape,
Thou,the vape at 380 is still anemic compared to

380,if I tricked the mod that my resistance was .33/(same coil)
Pre fired and resistance unlocked

" life is about making decisions and not looking back "

In its own moment, I suppose Evolv discarded to correct the resistance drifting if you do not calibrate (scientific term, read lock or answer 'yes, new coil') at exactly 20ºC/98ºF. Why....?

Well, for starters, it just simply adds the drift to the target temperature, and knowing it, it's not so hard call. If you, guys, in the hotter Asia, are using your mod at 30ºC room temperature, and you think your temperature setting should be not more than 230 ºC, then you can expect a drift to 240ºC, because you're to calibrate the base resistance at 30ºC, not 20ºC.

And do not forget that the minimum error of this technology, acording to Evolv, is 5ºF, but with our YiHi and Joyetech in-house boards, and those TCR going up and down depending on firmware version and designer feeling about the metals involved, those errors are in a killing rampage up and down!

So forget about setting the target temperature in an exact value, because it is recommended or you feel it's a good one. Forget to compare, one grade-to-grade, between mods. Take that theoretical best temperature minus 20/30ºc and after testing it, go up to your sweet spot, exactly as if you were adjusting power in a pure VW mod. In many ways, power setting has been swapped by temperature settings in TC-controlled vape, being now the power just the promptness that our chips get the target temperature.

And enjoy your TC-enabled vape, if nothing more arrives to ruin your experience, which I dearly hope so!

 

[dimo]

Looks Great!
If the TC worked as good as Power & Bypass mode this little guy would be a killer mod!

What's the issue with TC mode? I haven't it yet (will soon). I did some back reading but there's over 800 posts.

If I'm reading correct even with a locked resistance in TC mode, some times it chances on its own after sleeping a while? Is that what's happening to some of these or a lot of these?

 

[TrollDragon]

What's the issue with TC mode? I haven't it yet (will soon). I did some back reading but there's over 800 posts.

If I'm reading correct even with a locked resistance in TC mode, some times it chances on its own after sleeping a while? Is that what's happening to some of these or a lot of these?

I showed it to a friend on mine last night.

1. Screw on the cold atomizer and the mini detected the resistance at 0.09 ohms which was the build I had in the KFL.
2. I vaped this at 430F/20W perfectly, never went into TP and it was a nice warm vape. Let my friend check it out too.
3. Let the mini sit and go to sleep. When you hit the fire button the resistance has dropped to 0.07
4. Passed it over to my friend to try... He was absolutely amazed at how poor the vape was compared to the previous test. Weak and the mini constantly went into TP mode.
5. I let it sit a half an hour unscrewed the KFL fired a few times to clean the setting, screwed the KFL back on and it was back to 0.09 ohms.
6. I hit yes for new coil, passed it over and the vape was back to normal with no TP kicking in.

If I would have chosen No to the new coil option it would have had the same pathetic vape it did after it woke up from sleep mode.

I put the KFL after it cooled on the IPV D2 with 430F/20W passed it to my friend and he vaped it for quite a while as it worked as expected.

You can tell when the mini goes into TP mode as the vape suffers drastically with the power dropping from 20W to 4W etc... Locking the resistance makes no difference as the mini adjusts to whatever the current resistance is. If you could tell the mini that this coil is 0.09 ohms and lock that value so it cant change then there probably would not be a problem.

Those are my issues and others have enjoyed the same.

 

[dimo]

I showed it to a friend on mine last night.

1. Screw on the cold atomizer and the mini detected the resistance at 0.09 ohms which was the build I had in the KFL.
2. I vaped this at 430F/20W perfectly, never went into TP and it was a nice warm vape. Let my friend check it out too.
3. Let the mini sit and go to sleep. When you hit the fire button the resistance has dropped to 0.07
4. Passed it over to my friend to try... He was absolutely amazed at how poor the vape was compared to the previous test. Weak and the mini constantly went into TP mode.
5. I let it sit a half an hour unscrewed the KFL fired a few times to clean the setting, screwed the KFL back on and it was back to 0.09 ohms.
6. I hit yes for new coil, passed it over and the vape was back to normal with no TP kicking in.

If I would have chosen No to the new coil option it would have had the same pathetic vape it did after it woke up from sleep mode.

I put the KFL after it cooled on the IPV D2 with 430F/20W passed it to my friend and he vaped it for quite a while as it worked as expected.

You can tell when the mini goes into TP mode as the vape suffers drastically with the power dropping from 20W to 4W etc... Locking the resistance makes no difference as the mini adjusts to whatever the current resistance is. If you could tell the mini that this coil is 0.09 ohms and lock that value so it cant change then there probably would not be a problem.

Those are my issues and others have enjoyed the same.

Interesting. Both my DNA 40 devices also did this. Evolved called it refinement. It would adjust up or down .01-.02 and would change the vape enough that I to adjust temp to fix it. My DNA 40 mods are both older and don't have the temp lock feature the later versions had.

I thought that was the whole purpose of resistance lock, to keep the resistance from moving around after the initial setup? I'll experiment with mine later today or during the week to see what happens.