I just ordered the white one with matching ego one. Also picked up a pack of rebuildable clr's. Any suggestions for a newb? My rebuilding skills are on the iffy side. Currently comfortable building on a RM2 and subtank @ 1 ohms using 30g kanthal. Haven't got into sub-ohming using and high watts yet.
eVic-VT mini?
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Does anybody know if the battery cover is stainless steel? I would love to strip it down and polish it (just the battery cover, not the whole mod).
I just put a request in at FT for replacement battery covers, in different colors. Hope they come through - VapeNW no longer sells them (or they could be just out of stock), and it would be nice not to pay eBay prices for one ($8.99-$9.99).
I just put a request in at FT for replacement battery covers, in different colors. Hope they come through - VapeNW no longer sells them (or they could be just out of stock), and it would be nice not to pay eBay prices for one ($8.99-$9.99).
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From what I've seen, the build on the CLR is a little different - it's more like rebuilding old Kanger Evod heads. So if you're comfortable with single-coil builds, should be piece of cake for you.
Going lower ohms just means switching to thicker wire. As you get more comfortable, you can play with different types of wire (like claptons or twisted, which you can make yourself or buy premade), or get into other atties that would allow for dual/multi coils.
No problem. I've rebuilt them many times. First off, you want to use a 2.5mm drill bit, screwdriver, or coil master type device. Anything bigger won't work well, although a 2.0mm coil should be fine. Second point, and this is a big one, the 1 ohm heads have a very tiny air hole in the bottom pin that restricts airflow quite a lot. If you want wide open airflow just remove the pin from the 1 ohm CLR head and replace it with one from either the nickle, titanium or a .5 ohm head. You don't really have to worry about the coil moving. Just be gentle when you put the new pin in.
Rewicking will be your best friend. You can use the same coil for weeks if you want. Unscrew the top of the head, remove the old wick, gently dry burn the coil (not too hot or you may damage the insulator), rinse it under water, thread in some new cotton, and trim the cotton pretty close to the holes with flush cutters or a small pair of pointy scissors if you have them. Juice up and vape.
Everybody has their favorite wire to build with for certain tanks. My favorite kanthal build for the eGo One Mega is a 2x28 gauge twisted wire contact coil. The UD twisted wire works beautifully and it's $2 for 10 meters at GearBest.
For temp control builds 26 gauge stainless steel wire is the best size. Thicker wire won't fit and thinner wire heats up too fast, doesn't taste as nice, and usually comes out too high ohm for temp control. Make a spaced coil with about 5 wraps and it will work beautifully. Stainless Steel temp control is excellent in the eGo One on the VTC Mini. No dry hits and no burnt cotton. The taste is very nice, but I slightly prefer the twisted kanthal build for flavor.
If you have any other questions don't hesitate to ask. I haven't seen a lot of people talking about using the CLR heads but I love them (just ordered my second VTC Mini full kit). I retired my Kanger Subtank in favor of the eGo One CLR head combo. It never has the heat or the spitback problems of the Subtank. The eGo One doesn't have the massive clouds and flavor of a Crown tank or an RDA, but for a nice relaxing vape it's rock solid.
From what I've seen, the build on the CLR is a little different - it's more like rebuilding old Kanger Evod heads. So if you're comfortable with single-coil builds, should be piece of cake for you.
Thanks for the tips. Can't wait until it gets here
Im not sure how helpful it was, it worked for my bellus tank, but I still had erratic issues, Joytech sent me a beta firmware after I emailed them but it is a little too early to tell just yet but so far so good, will let you know
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Sent from my D6653 using Tapatalk
No it didn't make a difference. I use some of these atomizers on a hybrid mech so the center pins stick out pretty far. But I extended a few out just for s&g's.
I've been using it with nickel exclusively since my last post and I haven't had a single issue. Even a triple twisted 32g micro works fine, and those are finicky on my dna40's. It's just ss mode that's not working consistently..
Ouch. Sorry to hear that. I hope my next VTC won't have that problem. I've been really happy with the first one using SS TC. Lucked out.
Just FYI, i was sent the Beta firmware nearly 2 weeks ago (the 14th), as i was the loudest voice probably on the issue at the time, and was specifically asked not to mention it anywhere....but more on that in a moment..
It didnt resolve anything for me, in fact instead of my post sleep/shutdown res going down by 0.05 (resulting in anaemic vapeage, the beta firmware seemed to either drop 0.03, or raise by 0.02 after a sleep/power off, seemed very weird that the difference range was still 0.05, i started to suspect it was cutomised just for my 0.05 variance - and im not usually a tinfoil hat wearer). I was suprised they didnt release it publicly for further testing at least when they sent it to me, but then, they took weeks to reply any users wiht issues and seemed to want to be sneaky about it.
Confession, i forwarded the email i received and the Beta firmware to pbusardo, as i was talking to him about the VTC issue right when their email landed, and just so someone else out there didnt think we were inventing the issue....
My parting post to the people at JoyeTech, after doing the Beta tests - even though i was already on the way to giving them back, was that the entire thing should have been handled much better. Issues are fine, if the people who make the equipment ackowledge them at least...
It didnt resolve anything for me, in fact instead of my post sleep/shutdown res going down by 0.05 (resulting in anaemic vapeage, the beta firmware seemed to either drop 0.03, or raise by 0.02 after a sleep/power off, seemed very weird that the difference range was still 0.05, i started to suspect it was cutomised just for my 0.05 variance - and im not usually a tinfoil hat wearer). I was suprised they didnt release it publicly for further testing at least when they sent it to me, but then, they took weeks to reply any users wiht issues and seemed to want to be sneaky about it.
Confession, i forwarded the email i received and the Beta firmware to pbusardo, as i was talking to him about the VTC issue right when their email landed, and just so someone else out there didnt think we were inventing the issue....
My parting post to the people at JoyeTech, after doing the Beta tests - even though i was already on the way to giving them back, was that the entire thing should have been handled much better. Issues are fine, if the people who make the equipment ackowledge them at least...
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Stylemessiah you mod is probably broken and no amount of firmware updates will fix it. Ohms adjusting .01-.02 are normal. I've seen more than that with prebuilt coils before but usually rare.
Sounds like a bad 510 connection within the device to me. I had that happen on a Hana modz box before. It will break TC in a mod
Sounds like a bad 510 connection within the device to me. I had that happen on a Hana modz box before. It will break TC in a mod
I suspect your right as I noticed my ohm readings were 0.03 higher than before and as the issue I reported was that they dropped they have just programmed my firmware ti read my 0.22 ohm coil as 0.25. Did you end up returning yours?
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Yup, returned both of them last week. Currently using the TreeBox i swapped one for, stress and drama free so far, no fiddling needed in the week ive had it. Lol, i havent had to take the tank off it once
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